Vogue Archives - Mame Fashion Dictionary

Badgley Mischka

American brand founded by Mark Badgley and James Mischka, who presented their first collection at tne New York fashion week in 1988.

American brand founded by Mark Badgley (born in East Saint Louis, Ill., in 1961) and James Mischka (born in Burlington, Wisc., in 1960), who presented their first Collection in New York in 1988, demystifying and simplifying glamour.

Their refines afternoon and evening dresses are made in cotton brocade, silk, and wool velvet. Simplicity, wearability and perfect tailoring are their trademark. According to Vogue, Badgley and Mischka created “the perfect black dress, new but without being a novelty.”

For the Oscars in March 1999 they dress both Jennifer Lopez and Laura Dern in black.

In September 2001 the two designers decide not to show their collections at New York Fashion Week. This was a first after 12 years of shows. Among their reasons, the imminent opening of two new boutiques.

In 2002, for the spring-summer 2003, the two designers, included in Vogue’s list of the ten best American designers, propose fashion that is “more accessible.”

In 2009, thanks to the acquisition of the brand by Iconix Brand Group, the brand reached higher levels, including different collections and elements: Badgley Mischka Couture, Platinum Eveningwear, Platinum Sportswear, Couture Evening and Day Handbags, eyewear, shoes, jewelry, lingerie, perfumes and wedding dresses.

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Bacirubati

Badulescu

Badulescu. Stage name of Enrique Coròdoba (1961). Mexican photographer who studied photography in Munich. He has worked with Valentino, Armani and Galliano.

Badulescu. Stage name of Enrique Coròdoba (1961). Mexican photographer who studied photography in Munich. He quickly made a name for himself due to the simplicity with which he worked. He only worked with one Hasselblad camera and a single tungsten flash. This was largely offset by his heavy colors and the originality of his daring shots. He was first published by the Mexican magazine Fotozoom.

S starting in the 1980s he contributed to a complete renewal of fashion photography in Mexico. At the same time his photos began to appear in foreign magazines such as The Face and L’Uomo, and in the various international editions of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. His work was also published on Elle, Conde Nast traveller, GQ, l’Officiel and Marie Claire.

Badulescu also collaborated with Four Season.

Convinced that fashion photography can go beyond the limits of the commercial market and build a bridge in the direction of art, Badulescu worked for Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Nina Ricci, Gap and Galliano.

Additionally he has alo worked with Yves Saint Laurent, H&M, Michael Kors, Aldo, Desigual and Hèrmes.

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Abbe, James

Backhaus, Maria Vittoria

Backhaus Maria Vittoria (1942). Italian photographer. She works in Milan. She has worked with Armani, Versace, Zegna, Tod’s and many others.

Backhaus Maria Vittoria (1942). Italian photographer. She works in Milan and is considered one of the best for taking still life photos of accessories, jewels, objects, adn the kitchen. She studied set design at the Accademia di Brera and began her career as a reporter for the weekly magazine Tempo in the second half of the 1960s. Later she worked in fashion, collaborating especially with Vogue Italia and becoming a close friend of Walter Albini. After arriving at the monthly Casa Vogue, under the direction of Isa Tutino Vercelloni, she began to work with still life, quickly demonstrating her talent, taste, and skill at working with lights. She favors large-format photography.

During her career, among many others, she worked for Giorgio Armani, Braccialini, Cartier, Casadei, Della Valle, Dolce & Gabbana, Gianfranco Ferré, Salvatore Ferragamo, La Rinascente, Moncler, Prada, Sambonet, Tod’s, Trussardi, Versace and Ermenegildo Zegna .

She is the niece of Arnaldo Mussolini and the daughter of Vito. He was the last editor-in-chief of Popolo d’Italia. She married Giorgio Backhaus, the translator of Max Horkheimer and Theodor Adorno, philosophers of the Frankfurt School.

Her work has. also been published on Amica, Io Donna, Elle, Vogue and Wallpaper.

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Abbe, James

Durst, André

Durst André (1907-1949). French photographer. His pictures are closely connected to the formation of Surrealism. He has also worked for Vogue.

Durst André (1907-1949). French photographer. His pictures are closely connected to the formation of Surrealism. After arriving in Paris from Marseilles, he met often with Cocteau and Bérard. In 1934, he documented the Patou collection for French Vogue. Two years later, the magazine put him in charge of the photo department. They also made him responsible for photo features on the work of the great Parisian tailors from Balenciaga to Rochas.

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Arbus Nemerov, Diane

Arbus Nemerov, Diane (1923-1971). American photographer born in New York into a wealthy family of Russian origin. She worked with Vogue, Glamour and others.

Arbus Nemerov, Diane (1923-1971). American photographer born in New York into a wealthy family of Russian origin — the Nemerovs — that owned the Russeks department store on Fifth Avenue. At the age of 18 she married Allan Arbus and together they opened a photographic studio interested in fashion, doing work for Vogue and Glamour. She concentrated on taking the photos, she on the visual concept.

The collaborative/marital crisis

By 1957 their collaboration was beginning to wear thin, just like their marriage. Allan began to take acting lessons. Then Diane went around the city taking pictures. The studio was officially closed only in 1969. It was in this period that Diane’s personality as a photographer came out. This was partly thanks to the encouragement of her teacher, the great Lisette Model, but also to the influence of photographers such as Weegee and Robert Frank, with their “rough style,” and the rigorous August Sander.

Arbus in the 1960s

In the 1960s she worked for Junior Bazaar, Esquire, Nova, The New York Times, and New York Magazine (starting with its very first issues, when it was the Sunday magazine of the Herald Tribune).

She published portraits in Infinity and worked with Richard Avedon and Marvin Israel on Picture Newspaper, a large-format photomagazine which published twelve issues from 1968 to 1971. She was also interested in teaching and held several workshops. And finally, she had a column in Harper’s Bazaar entitled At My Age. She often alternated fashion pieces with images that were harsh, and sometimes violent, in a language that was blunt and basic.

After working many years with a Leica, she turned to the square-format Rolleiflex, at the same time changing her aesthetic vision. In 1967 her great solo exhibit at the Museum of Modern Art in New York made the photos famous. It also emphasized the anxious and fragile aspects of her character. In 2006 Nicole Kidman played the photographer in the film “Fur – An imaginary portrait of Diane Arbus“.

The fictional story aims to show how Diane was able to appreciate the world of diversity by gradually entering the world of the Freaks. Until she fell in love with Lionel and his fur.

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Armstrong Jones, Antony

Armstrong Jones, Antony (1960-2017). English photographer. He began to take photographs when still a student, becoming a professional in 1951.

Armstrong Jones, Antony (1930-2017). English photographer, born in Sussex. He began to take photographs when still a student at Eaton and Cambridge, becoming a professional in 1951. He quickly became famous thanks to a refined and rigorous style. In fact he published photos in Life, Vogue, Geo, Stern, Paris Match, and Look. In 1960 he married Princess Margaret (from whom he was to divorce a few years later), the sister of Queen Elisabeth II. The Queen bestowed on him the title of Lord Snowdon. He divorced Princess Margaret in 1978.

In 1961 Armstrong Jones signed an exclusive contract with the Sunday Times and joined the staff of the Council of Industrial Design. Some of his work was also published in Vanity Fair and The Daily Telegraph magazine. In addition to his fashion photographs, taken almost exclusively for the English edition of Vogue, he shot reportage and social documentaries for the BBC. For this he received various prizes and awards.

Some of his photography subjects include Marlene Dietrich, Lynn Fontanne, David Bowie, Elizabeth Taylor, Rupert Everett, Anthony Blunt, David Hockney, Iris Murdoch, Tom Stoppard, and Vladimir Nabokov.

In 2006, Tomas Maier, the creative director of Bottega Veneta, Snowdon photographed the Fall/Winter 2006 campaign.

Armstrong Jones Antony passed away on January 13, 2017, in Kensington at the age of 86.

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Vogue

Art Kane

Arthur Kaanofsky, also known as Art Kane (1925-1995). American photographer, born in New York, in the Bronx, to a family of Russian Jewish immigrants.

Arthur Kaanofsky, also known as Art Kane (1925-1995). American photographer, born in New York, in the Bronx, to a family of Russian Jewish immigrants. Art Kane, whose real name was Arthur Kanofsky, became famous as a graphic designer at a young age and, when 27, was hired by Esquire, the youngest art director of his time.

Art Kane and and photography

He decided to become a photographer, and suffered a demanding apprenticeship under Alexey Brodovitch, the legendary art director at Harper’s Bazaar. By the end of the 1950s Kane had made a name for himself in photography as well, thanks to a very personal style. He was the first, in fact, to use an extreme wide-angle lens of 21 mm and produced well-known images shot close-up from below of models such as Verushka, Jean Shrimpton, and Margaux Hemingway, published by Vogue, Look, Life, McCall’s, Esquire and Harper’s Bazaar.

Not just fashion

In addition to his fame as a fashion photographer, he is known for his photos of musicians, especially jazz musicians. Since his death, the artist’s archive has been managed and preserved by the Art Kane Estate. His son Jonathan is an expert on the work and one of its greatest supporters. Kane’s celebrated photograph in which the rock band The Who is completely wrapped in the flag is imitated by other young groups such as Oasis and repeated twenty years later by the original English band.

The Govinda Gallery of Washington, D.C. mounted a solo exhibition for the artist, in collaboration with his foundation. Fashion photos and pictures of pop idols and various American celebrities were among the exhibited works.

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L’Uomo Vogue

Agha, Mehemed Fehmy

Agha Mehemed Fehmy (1896-1978) was one of the 20th century’s most influential magazine art directors. He was born in Ukraine.

Agha Mehemed Fehmy (1896-1978) was one of the 20th century’s most influential magazine art directors. Born in the Ukraine, Agha was educated in Kiev before fleeing the Russian Revolution of 1917. He completed his studies in Paris, and there began his career as an illustrator and photographer at the Dorland Advertising Agency.

Aided by his knowledge of five foreign languages (Russian, French, Turkish, English and German), he began submitting illustrations to various foreign magazines, and was hired by German Vogue in 1928. Publisher Condé Nast brought him to America the following year where he.became art director of Vogue, House & Garden and Vanity Fair. Agha’s groundbreaking approach to graphics, typeface and covers changed not only the.look but also the essence of fashion and lifestyle magazines.

He was bold in his use of bleed photographs and duotone,.sans serif type and asymmetrical photo placement, and was also at the forefront of working with celebrated artists and photographers such as Cecil Beaton. Agha retired from Condé Nast Publications in 1943, and was succeeded by his former assistant Alexander Lieberman.

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L’Uomo Vogue

Abbe, James

Abbe James (1883-1973). American photographer. A versatile artist, he devoted himself to cinematography, working in Hollywood.

James Abbe(1883-1973). American photographer. A versatile artist, he devoted himself to cinematography, working with the great director D. W. Griffith in Hollywood. During the 1920s he moved to Paris where he began to work in fashion (with a certain preference for the clothes of Patou), showing a very personal style characterized by natural light and the use of mirrors to illuminate areas of shadow.

Like other photographers of the time, James Abbe used theater and movie actresses as models. His pictures, at once both simple and refined, were published by Vogue France, Vogue America, Harper’s Bazaar, L’Officiel de la Couture, Fémina, and Vanity Fair.

During the 1930s his attention shifted to photo reportage and he produced important photo features during the Spanish Civil War and the Second World War. He also took the first official portrait of Stalin.