Marco Rambaldi, the talented Bolognese designer born in 1990, designs a woman free from preconceptions and constraints, daughter of those 70s and the most sincere Made in Italy.
The Origin
Marco Rambaldi was born in Bologna in 1990. After graduating in Graphic Design and studies in Product Design, he graduated in 2013 in Fashion Design at the IUAV University of Venice.
Marco Rambaldi Portrait
His debut took place in Milan on February 2014 and, on that occasion, he won the Next Generation contest sponsored by the Italian National Chamber of Fashion.
In 2017 she is one of the finalists of Who Is On Next?, a fashion scouting project dedicated to young fashion talents, conceived and created by Altaroma in collaboration with Vogue Italia.
The Brand
“My brand wants to free women from preconceptions, prejudices and stereotypes. He decided in their final intentions, changing in the desire to wear different garments but that enhance the big or small curves that they are, the more or less marked wrinkles. “Marco Rambaldi
Rambaldi starts from here with his stylistic reasoning, but in a post-contemporary key. A changing image, as changing, is the reference woman, staying between new freshness and memories of the past.
“We Also Want Roses”
The cultural and sexual revolutions are the concept of the creative project of the Bologna born, Marco Rambaldi, presented during the AltaRoma edition of January 2018.
The theme of sexual liberation has been debated at night but it is still a taboo. Knowing how to tell through a collection is even more difficult and to do it, you need to have enough sensitivity.
Marco Rambaldi Fall 18 Collection
Cropped frames, faded covers and poster fragments: the Rambaldi collection marks the unequivocal seventies aestheticism, underlining it with vibrant prints and colors. The “revolution” of the Fall/Winter 2018-19 line drawn by the stylist highlights the social involution through playful and light items but from the revolutionary aplomb.
The Woman of Marco Rambaldi
On the Fall/Winter 2018-19 catwalk both mature women, like the Valerie transsexual friend, and young models parade: the Rambaldi leaders do not know their age and do not have a defined target.
Marco Rambaldi Valerie
The sexual liberation of the seventies, source of inspiration for the Fall/Winter Season 2018-19, overturns the taboo of today. Women’s rights, feminist struggles and pornography are the focal themes of the collection. Printed on fabrics, moments set in jacquard, jackets with male cuts, crochet trimmings and tie and dye prints, all to enhance and make the woman free to express herself and always be herself.
“Take care of Yourself” Print Sweater
Frame Print Skirt
Corduroy Outfit
Over Coat With Faux Fur Collar
Faux Fur and Pencil Skirt With Hearts
Over Coat Jaquard
Mina, Ornella Vanoni, Anna Oxa, are just some of the divas representing the Rambaldi woman. They are proposals on knitwear, they are the music that accompanied the show and are the muses of femininity and sexual freedom of the 2018 collection.
Made in Italy
The Milanese office is composed of the stylist, the right-hand man Giulia Geromel and Andrea Batilla, a historical fashion journalist. Lately he has joined Rambaldi’s fiancé, Filippo Giuliani, who takes care of the styling. Production remains in Italy, in a town between Milan and Bologna. Above all they are creative Made in Italy, not only for the place where the products are developed, but because the creativity, all the history and the aesthetics behind it is Italian. A sincere Made in Italy.
The brand was born in 2012 from the homonymous designer Marianna Cimini, from the Amalfi coast. The talent of Marianna is immediately recognized by the fashion business, for its ability to merge fashion and art, giving life to a unique vision.
The Origin
Marianna Cimini
Marianna Cimini is a fashion designer from Campania, who grew up on the Amalfi Coast. She moved very young to Milan to attend the prestigious Istituto Marangoni and her attitude towards fashion was immediately appreciated by several brands. He soon began collaborating with important and established Italian brands including MaxMara, where he designed the MaxMara and Tod’s line for more than three years, where he was responsible for a capsule collection (limited edition) for Fay Donna.
Style of the Brand
In 2012, the designer launched the eponymous brand Marianna Cimini during the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Milan, meeting with critical acclaim. Entirely Made in Italy, immediately distinguished by the balance between femininity and actuality. The brand combines love for well-defined lines with simplicity and the functionality of sportswear gives the collections a sporty-chic essence.
Marianna Cimini has a contemporary image that is not without refinement. The collections, in fact, are composed of extreme linearity, occasionally distorted by overlaps and overlapping volumes.
Awards and Recognitions
Marianna Cimini has a career full of awards. Among his successes, the victory at the Premio Moda Italia sponsored by the CNA and a special mention of the Next Generation competition organized by the CNMI. She was also a finalist in the Muuse for Vogue Talents for the Young Vision Awards. In 2014 has the opportunity to show for the first time in Rome, on the occasion of the tenth edition of Who is on Next? – competition organized by Vogue Italia and AltaRoma. Several times reported by Vogue, in September of the same year is included by Vogue Talents among the best 200 emerging designers.
Fashion and Art Come Together
The autumn / winter 2018-19 collection, presented at Altaroma, is inspired by “La femme à l’ombrelle” by Claude Monet. The collection turns out to be a sort of play on the reverse, a bit like the painting, one of the most representative paintings of Impressionism, but already so vivid of the imminent modernity.
Marianna Cimini La femme à l’ombrelle, Claude Monet, 1886
The stylist, always fascinated by the painter with strong contrasts, reasons on the ambivalence of Monet, both in the composition and in the color palette. There are two levels of reading, one romantically evanescent but readable in the female figure – in the white of her dress and in the blue of the sky – the other dark and disordered, tending to grasp the unknownity of modernity through the nervous brush stroke of the lawn shaken by the wind. Two similar but opposite souls merge to recreate a new, different one, interpreted by Marianna Cimini with an idea of New Romanticism.
The looks presented in the fashion show, without following chromatic balances, followed the “chaos” of opposites of the generative act, as well as the musical choices that accompanied them. The silhouettes are aimed at recreating these contrasts and their contradictions, overlapping shoulder pieces from the masculine cut to the more romantically soft lines of the long and mini dresses, generating new volumes. Then there are the technical fabrics such as nylon, faux fur and eco-leather combined with silks, decisive colors illuminated by sequins and the most delicate colors such as sage green as a background for the macro-floral prints or the soft knit azure lit by lurex.
With the Fall/Winter Collection 2018-2019 Marianna Cimini offers her personal interpretation of a new woman, emancipated, at ease with herself in any context and at any age.
“Each garment is intended to be worn at any occasion or time of day. A simple trouser suit with a masculine cut can be transformed, with the addition of an accessory like a knit collar, into a refined glamorous outfit for a sudden dinner. The silk dresses, but with sporty lines, can be used to satisfy every need simply by playing on accessories or on jewels.” Marianna Cimini
The Cimini Woman
The Fall/Winter 2018-19 collection connotes a pleasant romanticism that sometimes contrasts with the highly contemporary line of the garments. These proposals are aimed at a woman who fully lives her contemporaneity, able to exploit the inherent creative ability, properly feminine, to face the challenges and rhythms that modern times impose.
That of Marianna Cimini is a woman who does not withdraw from the unexpected, is imaginative and ironic and this allows her to be impeccable and at ease always.
With a refined but not rigorous presence, it is elegant and contemporary: freshness and lightness of lines and prints for a sophisticated charm. The colors, powerful, are combined with contrast, according to the style that Marianna defines “metropolitan graphics”, minimalist graphicism that smells of Mediterranean boldness.
“My collection, like the others that preceded it, is aimed at interpreting a decisive and dynamic woman who does not renounce her femininity in its most romantic but not necessarily mawkish meaning, or her intimate fragility that is not to be understood as a synonym of weakness. If I had to translate into a message what I pursue with my vision, I would say that it is to show with pride every little facet of one’s being a woman, without conditioning.” Marianna Cimini
Salvatore Ferragamo (1898-1960). Famous Italian shoemaker with 20,000 models and 350 patents. He created multiple iconic luxury women’s shoes. Also known as “Shoemaker of the Stars.”
Salvatore Ferragamo (1898-1960). Famous Italian shoemaker. The 11th, out of 14 children, born in Bonito. A small village about 160 miles from Naples.
From a young age Salvatore Ferragamo had clear ideas and wanted to become a shoemaker. Although, in southern Italy a shoemaker is one of the humblest professions, his parents, despite their poverty, were not happy with his choice.
At 9 years old he created, in only one night, his first pair of shoes for his sister’s communion, and he managed to convince his family that the shoemaker career was the best choice for him.
Later he was an apprentice in Luigi Festa’s workshop and once he finished this experience he moved to Naples to learn something new and try in a real way his abilities. After he returned to Bonito, by the age of 13, he had his own shop where he began to create shoes.
Immigration to the U.S.
Then, in 1915, he immigrated, via the ship Stampalia, to the United States to join his brothers who were already there. But in Boston, his brother-in-law, had already found him a job at the Queen Quality Shoes Company. They produced thousands of shoes a day, soles and heels in half a second, and one minute for sewing.
Salvatore Ferragamo Portrait
Anyone would have been thankful for such a job, but not the young Salvatore. He had a more noble idea of the shoemaker’s profession. He couldn’t stand those machines. He exclaimed, “They made shoes that were heavy, clumsy, and squat, with a toe shaped like a potato and a leaden heel.” He left the factory, joined his brothers in Santa Barbara.
As told in his autobiography, Il calzolaio dei sogni (The Shoemaker of Dreams, Skira), Salvatore immediately understood that California, with its fast-growing film industry, would be the Promise Land.
It all started when the property manager at the American Film Company complained about the boots worn in the western movies. He believed, if they were easy to wear, the styling was no good, if the style was attractive, they hurt the feet of the actors. Ferragamo offered his services and produced boots for the manager. This was a success and the director Cecil B. De Mille said, “We would have won the West sooner if we had had your boots.” Salvatore and his brothers Girolamo, Seconding, and Alfonso opened their first shop in the center of Santa Barbara.
This is the beginning of a good relationship between Ferragamo and the Film industry, which will go on even after the American experience.
Shoemaker of the Stars
At this time in Hollywood 1923, the future of the movement was beginning. The biggest stars visited his boutique, including Mary and Lottie Pickford. He created the original Ferragamo model for her in brown kidskin, “with two ears standing up in front.”
When the Film industry moved from Santa Barbara to Hollywood, Salvatore Ferragamo decided to take a risk and follow the studios in order to find new possibilities of expansion.
In 1923 he opened his new shop “Hollywood Boot Shop”, and the Hollywood stars would only feel famous if they wore Ferragamo’s shoes. Salvatore Ferragamo soon became known as the “shoemaker to the stars.”
The Announcement of Salvatore Ferragamo’s First Hollywood Store
He created pale lavender sandals for Jean Harlow, cork-shaped heels for Gloria Swanson with a lot of pearls, and slippers in multicolored satin for Lillian Gish. Also, men’s shoes for clients like Douglas Fairbanks and Rodolfo Valentino.
Also, while in California Salvatore Ferragamo studied the anatomy of the foot. After his research he came out with a revolutionary component to sustain the arch of the shoe by putting thin layers of steel in the sole in order to provide arch support, when most shoemakers only used cardboard. This piece is called cambinone. In the late 1920’s he patented this invention.
His success was due to the comfort of his shoes. After the success of this invention he went on with his studies of shoes and invented an original way to wear the shoes, which made it easier on his production.
Salvatore Ferragamo With Sophie Loren. Copyright Attualita Fotografica Italiana Del Vecchio & Scala
Return to Italy
In 1927, he returned to Florence, Italy a city that represents the beauty and culture of Italy and world wide recognized as the base of craftsmanship. The same year he opened his first workshop with other artisans for the Italian production of his shoes.
Then, in 1929, during the world wide economic crisis, he faced bankruptcy and failure. Ferragamo didn’t despair, and soon made a comeback. By 1938 he was able to acquire the Palazzo Spini Feroni on via Tornabuoni, which is today still the headquarters of the company. In that same period, he acquired the Michelangelo style villa Il Palagio in Fiesole.
Salvatore Ferragamo Palazzo Spini Feroni in Florence
The Wedge Shoe
Salvatore Ferragamo invented the wedge shoe in cork to solve the problem of functionality during the autarchy period. To fix the problem he substituted the steel layer inside the shoe.
Ferragamo bought the perfect steel from Germany, but because of the Italian economic situation, he wasn’t able to buy it anymore, so she couldn’t make his shoes.
Ferragamo says “I started working with pieces of Sardinian cork,” Ferragamo writes, “pressing, gluing and finishing until the space between the sole and the heel was filled.”
So, the wedge was born and it became one of the most famous shoe between the 30s and 40s. Ferragamo created a lot of variations including platform heels and sculptured heels. The heels were made with various colors, or little mirrors placed like mosaics, also with brass grilles and floral motifs and studded with stones. These shoes were worn by the most famous customers.
Salvatore Ferragamo has always been focused on the use of material, even today the maison is still very particular about materials.
The beauty, comfort and longevity of a shoe depends on materials, shapes and production. Salvatore Ferragamo became famous for being able to consider all of these aspects without loosing his design.
He did not only work with luxury leathers, but also with unusual materials.
The traditional Florentine lace, paper, bark, raffia, hemp, skin of fish, and cellophane replaced, before and during World War II the more precious materials like goats, calves, and exotic crocodile. Immediately after the war, nylon and synthetic raffia appeared, and for evening wear, refined embroideries in rhinestones and glass beads offered unique solutions.
Salvatore Ferragamo Wedge Shoe 1942-1944
Salvatore Ferragamo’s Most Famous Clients
During the 50’s the most famous actress used to go to Palazzo Spini Feroni as kings and presidents did. Audrey Hepburn, Duke of Windsor, Greta Garbo, Anna Magnani, Paulette Goddard, Lauren Bascal, and Sophie Loren. Salvatore meet all his clients personally and was able to satisfy all requests, even the most extravagant.
Even Marilyn Monroe was a client of Salvatore Ferragamo, wearing his famous decollete with an eleven centimeter heel. The shoes were very high, but comfortable considering Ferragamo invited the particular heel half in wood and steel, which was strong and thin.
Marilyn Monroe owned a lot of Ferragamo shoes that she bought at the New York store. She used to have ballet shoes, but she preferred décolleté that gave her a feminine walk.
Brand after 1960
Once Salvatore Ferragamo died in 1960, his wife Wanda Miletti Ferragamo became the president of the maison and her six sons became responsible for the different sectors, from the creative direction to production, from distribution to the international markets and administration and finance.
Nowadays, Ferragamo’s family is leading the maison and because of this, it makes Ferragamo a very different family oriented Italian brand.
Brand Expansion From 1970s to early 2000s
During the 1970s, thanks to the initiative and preparation of Wanda, president of the company, the brand expanded and started offering total look collections. With fashion collections, men’s lines, perfumes, and eyeglasses, all of which gradually conquered the market.
In 1978 his daughter, Fiamma, designed the Vara shoe which became a best seller. Today, the Vara shoe is considered a Ferragamo iconic element.
Salvatore Ferragamo Iconic Decollete
In 1996, Ferragamo acquired Emanuel Ungaro, a luxury menswear line. Two years later the company turnover reached 850 billion liras, most of which came from Europe, U.S., the Far East, Africa, and Oceania. The company had 40 privately owned boutiques, plus several exclusive points-of-sale. Also, several of Salvatore’s grandchildren worked in the company.
Following the birth of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, in Palazzo Spini Feroni, the company has committed itself to art exhibits and cultural activities, not just as a sponsor or patron.
The French designer Marc Audibet creates the new Fall/Winter 2000-2001 collection. During this time, Leonardo Ferragamo became president of Altagamma, an association founded in 1992 and composed by 43 famous Italian brands.
World-Wide Expansion
New Openings
In 2001 the company introduced its world-wide expansion plans, created by architect Michael Gabellini, to renovate, or open, a total of 100 boutiques. The renovations were to gain a still more sophisticated architectural style. A new store opens in Korea, in a prestigious commercial area of Seoul. The store occupies a four-storey building with a garden-terrace on the roof.
Seoul Store Opening 2001
In 2002 Ferragamo opened a new shop in the historical center of Vienna, close to the Castle of Homburg. From 2003, they opened new stores in New York, Tokyo, Amsterdam and London.
The 2001 consolidated turnover was €641 million, and 46% came from the Far East.
Acknowledgments
The year of 2002 was full of good news and satisfaction. Then, beginning in June, Ferragamo starts a joint venture with Ermenegildo Zegna for the launch of the new brand Zefer, which ended later in 2013.
Salvatore Ferragamo Zefer Brand
Later, Wanda Ferragamo, the president of the company, is named “Woman Entrepreneur of the Year” by the “Committee of 200,” an organization that each year recognizes the top women managers and entrepreneurs all over the world. The ceremony took place in New York. The citation: “For success in the transformation of a shoe factory into an international luxury concern, in which the family maintains total control of its own flourishing business…”
The same year, Ferragamo was recognized as the best brand in China. Asia was the continent where the brand used to sell more in 2002.
Wanda Ferragamo 2002
New Creative Director
In 2002 Donna Graeme Black was nominated as the creative director and she remained until 2007.
In 2003 Salvatore Ferragamo entered the watch market.
Salvatore Ferragamo Watch 2003
Since 2004 the worldwide expansion plan is well under way. The distribution network had 16 new points-of-sale, including the important new boutiques in Osaka, Hong Kong (Pacific Place). Also, stores in Shanghai Center (China), Paris (Avenue Montaigne), and Milan (via Montenapoleone) are re-opened after renovations. The Salvatore Ferragamo Group closed the year with a consolidated turnover of €549 million, an increase of 5% to the year before.
In May of 2005, as part of the Fashion Project of the Province of Florence, with attendance by a large international public, Palazzo Strozzi hosts the fashion show in a memorable evening organized by Beppe Modenese. Then, starting in June 2005, Ferragamo Finanziaria enters a long-term agreement with the Porsche Design group to foresee the production and distribution of shoes, bags, and leather accessories.
Salvatore Ferragamo Florence Store
In 2006 new shops in Via Condotti were opened in Rome and Frankfurt. In November of the same year, Michele Norsa became Ferragamo’s new CEO. His managerial mind led the company to expand more and more, exploring new markets such as India, Latin America and Thailand.
Recent Years
A year later, after a new CEO, Cristina Ortiz, was appointed as creative director for the womenswear line from 2007 and stayed till 2010. In 2008 Salvatore Ferragamo company celebrates their 80th anniversary with an exhibition in Shanghai. One year later, the company renewed the license with Luxottica for the production of glasses and sunglasses under the name Salvatore Ferragamo.
Anniversary Exhibition Shanghai
Later, in January of 2010 Massimiliano Giornetti, current chief creative director of menswear, becomes creative director for the womenswear line. His role lasted until 2015.
Ferragamo officially become a part of Milan stock exchange in 2011. At this time, profits rose around 70% to €103.3 millions.
Through 2013 Ferragamo focused on accessories, in addition to footwear. In early October, they began to target a younger generation by using an “innovative” digital campaign and revamping physical stores. Also, continuing to renovate stores in existing markets in Europe and the U.S. to boost profitability in its retail division.
Ferragamo reported a 81% rise in Net profits to €81 million in the first half of 2013. The revenues are outside the Italian market, which has struggled to emerge from recession.
Financial Evolution
Their world-wide expansion plan are a success. As of 31 December 2014, the Salvatore Ferragamo Group has posted total revenues of €1.332 million and a 5.9% increase at current exchange rates. At this time, political tensions in Russia and Ukraine reduced the number of shoppers traveling from the region to Europe lead to decreasing number of sales in some cities through Europe. The Asia Pacific region is the best performer with 37.2% of sales.
Salvatore Ferragamo open new shops in less well-known cities Yantai in China, Surabaya in Indonesia, and Cartagena in Colombia. They continued to renovate stores in Europe and U.S. including Miami and Rome. Also, they reopened in San Francisco, on the west coast of America which is a popular destination for holidaying Chinese shoppers.
Salvatore Ferragamo continues to meet challenges due to a weaker euro, lower oil prices, and economic weakness in China. Also, United States, as a strong dollar hits tourist flows, have weighed on several luxury goods companies in recent months. By contrast, Japan has a strong performance thanks to Chinese tourists. The Asia Pacific area, the biggest market, experienced a 2% increase in sales in the first nine months of 2014. Revenues were up 7% from a year earlier, thanks to a 8% increase in the fourth quarter of 2015.
In 2016 revenues total €1.438 billion.
Current Scenario
Currently, Salvatore Ferragamo is going through major changes. In August 2016 Eraldo Poletto was appointed as CEO, who used to work for Furla. Also, 3 new creative directors have been hired after the departure of Massimiliano Giornetti. This includes Guillaume Meilland for menswear, along with Paul Andrew for Women shoes, and Fulvio Rigoni for Woman’s-Ready-to-Wear.
In October 2017 after the departure of Fulvio Rigoni, Paul Andrew is appointed Creative Director of the Women’s Collection.
CEO Eraldo Poletto
The brand now focuses on creating unique and exciting campaigns to bring back its positioning of industry leader it once had in the WWII era.
Ferragamo’s designs will live forever. The classic décolleté is always in style and most women’s go to shoe. The brand is known as the exemplary ideal shoe for women. It strives to be excellent in terms of quality, by keeping the production, and standard of craftsmanship, exceptional.
Line of men’s and women’s shoes manufactured by Nuova Centauro. The firm, whose focus is the comparison between tradition (in style and technique) and innovation, was established with the name Centauro in 1947 by the brothers Luigi and Dino Guardiani in Montegranaro, Italy in the Marche region. In 1972 Alberto Guardiani, Dino’s son, took over the business, at a moment when Dino was the sole proprietor.
Alberto Guardiani Men’s Shoes
In 1980 Alberto renamed the company, Alberto Guardiani, launched a women’s line and, while maintaining production of the firm’s classic items. Also, he launched Low Tide, a brand aimed at young people and the sports market.
In 1999 in Montegranaro, Ascoli Piceno, the company built a vertically integrated plant that could design, cut, and assemble garments, with an atelier for the finishing touch.
Alberto Guardiani Development
February 27, 2007 Alberto Guradiani opened a new showroom at 29 Corso Venezia in Milan. The showroom is in an 18th-century building that was originally a monastery where pilgrims could stay and was later turned into a residence by the Calzoni-Sforza family. It is an ideal stage for Alberto Guardiani’s style, a poetic landscape for exclusive goods and an expression of democratic luxury.
Also, in 2007 the brand opened a new store in Piazza di Spagna in Rome and a year later in Naples. “This is the first step on a tight agenda that will see, by February 2008, the opening of two further single-brand stores in Italy, another two important pieces in our retail development plan. So far, there are 11 single-brand shops across the world”, explained Alberto Guardiani.
In March 2009 the brand released the Eiffel Tour limited edition collection to celebrate 120 years off the symbol in Paris. To celebrate, Alberto Guardiani signs a limited edition where a Eiffel Tour shines on the black patent leather like the sky of a Parisian night.
Icon: Lipstick Heel
Alberto Guardiani Lipstick Heel
Alberto Guardiani’s lipstick heel is a pump with a lipstickshaped heel. It is both a shoe and an icon that draws inspiration from the great stars of the past and the present. It plays with the glamorous and provocative atmosphere of La Dolce Vita, symbolised by Anita Ekberg’s sensual ruby lips.
Current Situation
Today, the brand is run by Alberto Guardiani and Rossella Beato Guardiani. In 2016 Serena Guardiani, daughter of Alberto and granddaughter of founder Dino, has been appointed creative director of the brand’s women’s collections. Serena graduated from Milan’s Istituto Marangoni and joins her elder sisters Rubina and Guya within the company.
Portrait of young Santo, Donatella and Gianni Versace
Gianni Versace (1946-1997) was one of the greatest Italian designers, founder of the company of the same name, Gianni Versace SpA. Born in Reggio Calabria in 1946, Gianni Versace took his first steps in the world of fashion, helping his mother, a dressmaker, owner of a clothing store that, in addition to selling ready-made models, produced its own line. In 1972, a trip to Milan opened the doors of the industry when, called by Ezio Nicosia and Salvatore Chiodini, to collaborate in a collection for Florentine Flowers. His creations were a success and his name began to turn among the insiders, allowing him to continue working in the Lombard capital. He designed for De Parisini, Callaghan, Genny and Alma companies.
The Beginning of Versace
Versace Supermodels in the 1990s
In 1976, with the help of his accountant brother Santo, he founded the company that bears his name and the first women’s collection was presented two years later, at the Palazzo della Permanente. Gianni Versace’s success was instantaneous. A style immediately applauded by the international press, enthusiastic about his clothes full of genre contaminations, paves the way for him.
Also, the brand contributed to the birth of the phenomenon of supermodels: Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, and Christy Turlington. Gianni was the first to bring out the character of the models as well as enhance their beauty. At this time, the Versace model was transformed. She is no longer a model but a role model, she has personality and embodies an ideal to be achieved, for all women.
Gianni Versace With Supermodels
In the meantime, his sister Donatella, Gianni’s muse and advisor, had also joined the company. Initially she took care of the public relations and brand communication, collaborating in the creation of important advertising campaigns with Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, Bruce Weber and Steven Meisel. But, above all, the most memorable shots were with the photographer Richard Avedon. He exalted the image of the fashion house in the world fashion firmament; a partnership that lasted for several seasons and which will wrote many pages of the history of communication. Subsequently, Donatella became creative director of the young Versus line.
Gianni’s Style
Versace was able to mix with ease the contemporary languages of pop art with elements of Greek culture (hence the logo of the Medusa inspired by Greco-Roman iconography), alternating Renaissance and Baroque motifs with precious embroidery and psychedelic colors.
The success of the maison conquered the whole world, even the United States, where the ultra modern and extravagant style was increasingly appreciated. All the Eighties and the beginning of the Nineties were characterized by the territorial expansion of the brand and by very successful collections that built the empire still standing.
Versace Campaign 1994 Models Nadja, Christy, Claudia, Cindy and Stephanie
The fashion shows presented iconic pieces from the era, including very tight and colorful fuseaux with inlays, dresses in meshes of metal fibers, silks with geometric patterns, jackets with prints of pop culture icons. Versace risked a lot in presenting such a daring and avant-garde fashion, but made every garment and treated it as a work of art and as a result was always rewarded by both the public and the critics.
Collaboration with the Arts
Besides being a great collector, Gianni also worked in close contact with the world of theater, opera and ballet. His long collaboration with the Teatro alla Scala in Milan, which was very important, began in 1982. Gianni created the costumes of the ballet Josephlegende (by Richard Strauss, directed by Luigi Veronesi) and continued to create for many other performances by great choreographers and directors such as as Maurice Béjart, Robert Wilson, Rolant Petit, John Cox, William Forsythe and Twyla Tharp. There were many celebrities that boasted friendship with Gianni Versace, including Lady Diana, his friend and confidant, the singer Elton John, for which in 1992 he designed the cover of the album as well as all the costumes of his World Tour, and the top model Naomi Campbell.
Versace Home Collection
Gianni was the owner of immense villas scattered around the world, and he loved to furnish them with contemporary works of art, imperial furniture and Greek-Roman statues. He was also one of the first designers to launch a line for the home: the Versace Home Collection that will include furnishings, furnishing accessories, lamps, linens, tiles, porcelains and crystals.
Gianni Versace’s Death
The tragedy occurred on July 15, 1997. Gianni Versace is murdered on the steps of Casa Casuarina, in Miami, shot. The murder shocked the whole world raising many doubts and questions about the motive of the murder, which is still unclear. The killer, Andrew Cunanan, was found dead a few days later. It was a blow to the Medusa, for his family, but also for the whole Italian fashion system that will suddenly lose one of its biggest points of reference. After Gianni’s death, the creative direction was handed over to his sister Donatella who inherited 20% of the company’s value and was also the charismatic new face of the fashion house. 30% will go to Brother Santo, president and then CEO. The majority of the stock (50%), for a value then estimated at $700 million, will go to the beloved nephew Allegra, daughter of Donatella and Paul Beck.
The Brand Relaunched
Madonna For Versace Campaign
The death of the founder does not open an easy time for the company which saw its business in decline right at the turn of the new millennium. At the end of 2000 the new company structure was outlined, focused on a holding company and two subsidiaries; the same year a long-term agreement was signed with Euroitalia, for perfumes and cosmetics. For several years the company had difficulty competing with the glories of the past. Multiple managers alternated at the top of the administration, until 2004, when the company found stability with Giancarlo Di Risio, who was ready to start the company reorganization by relaunching the brand. Advertising investments were enhanced, which involved more and more celebrities from the world of cinema and music. For Donatella, a famous testimonial communicates the character of a collection more easily and quickly. Celebrities who posed for advertising campaigns worldwide includes; Madonna, Demi Moore, Christina Aguilera, Halle Berry, Patrick Dempsey.
Halle Berry For Versace Campaign
There was a lot of focus on upgrading the prêt-à-porter line, enlisting the two new fashion designers Warren Davis and Kinder Aguggini, respectively for the men’s line and the younger line. Also, Versace activated ambitious expansion policies in transversal luxury projects, diversifying its business with interior design and furnishing for private jets, yachts and helicopters.
It will also strengthen its territorial presence in the Far East with strategic agreements and acquisitions for a chain of Versace Luxury Hotels; the first of these opened in 2000 on the Australian Gold Coast, followed by another in Dubai. In 2006 the Versace Theater was inaugurated in Milan, a multifunctional space that also served as a location for future fashion shows. The following year is the tenth anniversary of Gianni’s death, which is remembered with a ballet by Maurice Béjart, presented at the Scala in Milan. Also, the biography The myth Versace (Dalai editore) is also published and a special scholarship is established that bears his name, in collaboration with the European Institute of Design.
Brand Development
Since 2008, while the collections received increasing support, the group announced an important expansion plan in Asia, which took shape in the following years with the opening of several stores in China. In 2010 more than 20 single-brand stores were presented in the “Asian giant” with excellent sales performance and further expansion forecasts. From 2009, Gian Giacomo Ferraris, took over from Giancarlo Di Risio, in the role of managing director. Gian Giacomo Ferraris cut costs, revised the network of direct shops and reduced investments. At this time, the brand officially announced the passage of the license of Versus from Ittierre to the Facchini group, which took charge of the production of clothing and accessories of the young line.
Versace Versus SS15
In 2010 there will be an increase in revenues that exceed the ceiling of €292.3 million, up 9.1% compared to the previous year. After the international crisis, a plan to reconquer Japan was planned, which in 2009 saw the closure of its three single-brand stores. Hiroshi Saito was appointed as chief executive officer of Versace Japan and opened new stores as well as additional points of sale to reinforce the presence of the brand in the area.
Collaboration with H&M
Versace Collaboration With H&M 2011 Campaign
In 2011 important collaborations of media impact were signed. In June the partnership between the fashion house Versace and the Swedish clothing giant H & M was announced. Starting from November, the clothing chain would sell 40 women’s and men’s 20 pieces, including several accessories, for a low-cost, strictly limited edition line, signed by Donatella. A way to bring the Versace world closer to a younger and wider audience. There was the most iconic pieces of the whole Versace, but also what the fashion house represents today in its continuous evolution. There were famous prints, lots of leather and studs because Versace is sexy and glamorous but also rock’n’roll.
Starting from July 1, 2011, Versace gave life to another collaboration with a strong media echo, announcing that it will wear the International Football Club of Milan. The agreement is signed between the fashion house and the Nerazzurri company, with the supply of official uniforms for managers, coaches, technical staff and players.
Current Situation
Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show a Tribute to Gianni Versace
Versace in now owned and managed by the family (50% Allegra Beck Versace, 30% Santo Versace, 20% Donatella Versace). Currently, Santo Versace is president of the group’s board of directors and Donatella is creative director as well as vice president of the board of directors. The company creates, produces and distributes luxury and lifestyle products including the Haute Couture Atelier Versace range, ready-to-wear collections, accessories, jewelry, watches, eyewear, fragrances and home furnishings and the second Versus line.
Today the Gianni Versace S.p.A. It is one of the most prestigious names in the international fashion luxury scene. The brand distributes its products through a network of 110 boutiques present in the main cities of the world, plus the 123 shop in shops dedicated in the main department stores and multi-brand stores.
Donatella Versace at Men’s Spring 2018 Milan Fashion Week Collection
Gianfranco Ferré was born in Legnano (Milan) on August 15, 1944.
After earning his high school diploma specializing in sciences, he enrolled in the School of Architecture at the Milan Polytechnic Institute. In 1969 he graduated, presenting a thesis on the “Methodology of the Approach to Composition” with Franco Albini, an architect, as his major professor.
Gianfranco Ferre Dressing Model in 1982
The Debut
His very first, quite off-hand entry into the world of fashion took place in the same years. Ferré designed jewelry and accessories that he would then give to friends and classmates. Rosy Biffi, a true talent scout as well as the owner of one of Milan’s edgiest boutiques, had occasion to notice the creations. She mentioned them to Ileana Pareto Spinola and Anne Sophie Benazzo, two women who were so impressed by these handcrafted items that they suggested buyers might take an interest in them. At that point prominent Italian fashion editors (initially, Anna Piaggi and Anna Riva) happened to spy the creations. This led to coverage in major specialty mags and in 1971 one of the accessories appeared on the cover of the Italian monthly “Arianna”. Ferré’s early debut on the scene proved very successful. It even attracted the attention of leading Italian journalist Camilla Cederna, who talked about Ferré in her weekly column for the newsmagazine “L’Espresso”.
India
In 1973, the young architect-designer made the first of his many trips to India, where up until 1977 he spent long periods working for the Genoa-based San Giorgio Impermeabili clothing company owned by the Borelli family. In India he designed and had manufactured the company’s “Ketch”collection. At the same time, he had the chance to visit every part of the country and to study local craftsmanship and production potential, also on behalf of the Indian government. Ferré fell literally under the spell of India, a land where he consolidated his professional training and embarked on his creative path. From India he learned a fundamental lesson of life, all about the colors, scents and shapes forming a whole with feelings, sensations and emotions. It’s a lesson that he would later transfer to and instill inextricably in his collections, through his own remarkable way of reminiscing and remembering.
The First Collection
In the same years, during his stays in Italy, he did free-lance work designing accessories for prominent fashion names such as Walter Albini and Christiane Bailly, as well as knitwear and swimwear for other companies in the sector. His swimsuits debuted on the catwalk at the “MareModa Capri” event, winning a prize that marked the first of many the designer would earn throughout the course of his career.
In 1974, Gianfranco Ferré began designing his first collections, hosting his first fashion shows, in particular for the “Courlande” and the “Baila” labels , the latter which belonged to Franco Mattioli, a Bolognese industrialist who in 1978 would become his business partner.
A Brilliant Career
In May of 1978, in fact, the Gianfranco Ferré company was set up on Via San Damiano in Milan (later the headquarters would move to Via della Spiga). In October of the same year, Ferré presented his debut signature women’s ready-to-wear collection with a show at the Principe di Savoia Hotel in Milan, truly a thrilling moment.
In addition to the launch of the men’s clothing line in 1982 , and to the introduction of a wide range of accessories and other products on license in partnership with leading companies in the various respective sectors, Ferré made a mark with two other key experiences: the creation of his own Alta Moda collection (1986-1989) and his extraordinary adventure at the finest and most storied of French fashion houses.
In 1983, he helped to develop the curriculum for Domus Academy, the new Milan-based Design, Design Management and Fashion Design Post-graduate School where up until 1989 he taught the course in Dress Design: analysis of dress design and relation to changing fashion, analysis of the design project from start to finish.
In May of 1989, Gianfranco Ferré was appointed Artistic Director of Christian Dior for the women’s Haute Couture, Prêt à Porter and Fourrure lines. Confirmation of the Dior appointment up to 1996 came in 1993.
Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 96 Show in France
In the fall of 1998, on the occasion of the brand’s twentieth anniversary a series of events important for the company’s future culminated with the grand opening in Milan of the new headquarters on Via Pontaccio: in the former Gondrand building, after a total renewal based on the initial project by Marco Zanuso, then completed by Franco Raggi both on the level of the executive project and interior architecture.
The Last Years
In 2002, the Gianfranco Ferré Company was acquired by Tonino Perna’s IT Holding Group. Gianfranco Ferré became Artistic Director of the house.
In March of 2007, Gianfranco Ferré was appointed President of the Brera Fine Arts Academy in Milan.
After suffering a brain hemorrhage, Gianfranco Ferré died in Milan on June 17, 2007.
Events, Exhibitions and Projects
70’s
1975: Creation of garments for SNIA’s “Dressing in Jersey” project
1976: Creation of garments for the project “Pizzi e Rasi” of SNIA, Milan; creation of garments for the project “The day of a child” by Leacril Montefibre, Milan; creation of garments for the project “New signatures for new projects” of SNIA, Milan
1977: Creation of garments for the “SNIA per 6 sports” project, Milan
1978 / ’79: Creation of garments for the “Zegna Baruffa” yarns at Pitti Filati, Florence; event – fashion show for “Saks Fifth Avenue“, New York
80’s
Fall/Winter 87 Photographed by Herb Ritts
1981: Creation of the representation uniform for Lea Pedini, Capitana del Popolo, Regent of the Republic of San Marino, worn on the occasion of the inaugural ceremony, Milan.
1982: Participation in the exhibition “Intimate Architecture: Contemporary Clothing Design”, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Boston; Fashion show at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), linked to the exhibition “Intimate Architecture: Contemporary Clothing Design”, Boston; participation in the “Design in Italian Society in the Eighties” exhibition: traveling exhibition in the USA, by the La Jolla Museum of Contemporary Art, San Diego
1983: Sponsorship of the restoration of the Guercino frescoes in the dome of the Duomo of Piacenza; participation in the exhibition “Creators of Italian Fashion 1920-1980” at the Daimaru and Costume Museums of the Academy of Fashion and Costume, Osaka and Tokyo; participation in the “The Best Five” event, annually organized by the Japanese newspaper Asahi Shimbun and by WWD Japan, Tokyo; parade-night event in Piazza Santo Stefano, Bologna
1984: Event – “Gianfranco Ferré” fashion show, in the setting of Osaka Castle; participation in the exhibition “Il genio antipatico” at the Galoppatoio of Villa Borghese, Rome; participation in the “Alla Moda di Torino” Convention; event-fashion show at the “Modewoche”, Munich; project of a carpet for Sisal, exhibited at the exhibition “Italian design for the western carpet”, on the occasion of the Salone del Mobile, Milan; project for B & B Italia, to dress sofas and armchairs of the series “Gli abiti”, designed by Paolo Nava, Milan; costumes for the theater “Tamara”, Los Angeles and New York; creation of T-shirts for “T-show. History and new styles in the T-Shirt “, project realized by the Cotonificio Cantoni textile group, Legnano
1985: Participation in the “Italia. The Genius of Fashion”, New York; exhibition at the Museo Civico Medievale, Bologna; participation in the “RENart” project, a series of free and different interpretations of the Renault Supercinque model, with Alessandro Mendini, Mario Merz, Ugo Nespolo, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Paolo Portoghesi, Franco Maria Ricci and Ettore Sottsass, Milan
1986: Participation in “Italia: il Genio della Moda”, exhibition curated by Pia Soli, Milan; costumes for “This is the Arena, Maria Callas was born here”, a charity evening for aid to Third World countries, Verona; fashion show at Trinità dei Monti, with a selection of garments from the Gianfranco Ferré Alta Moda Fall / Winter collection 1986-87, Rome
1987: Event for the presentation of the “Gianfranco Ferré” Women’s Perfume in Greece at the Hotel Grande Bretagne, Athens; event for the inauguration of the Gianfranco Ferré boutique, Rome; participation in the RAI television event, organized by the magazine “Moda” of Edizioni E.R.I. at the Gardens of Villa Reale, Milan; fashion show at the Yurakucho Asahi Hall on the occasion of the opening of the boutique in Sonnette Aoyama, Tokyo
1988: Participation in the “Tartan” exhibition at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York; participation in the “Moda Italia” exhibition organized in collaboration with ICE, New York; participation in “Progetto Uomo ’88” organized by Saga Furs and dedicated to men’s fur, Milan
1989: Participation – the only fashion designer – at “Italian Manifesto”, 39th International Design Conference, Aspen; lecture: “The path of the project”; creation of garments for “Lana Gatto” collection A / W 89-90 at Pitti Filati, Florence; participation in the “La Moda Italiana for the Floriani Foundation” event with Gianfranco Ferré Fourrures, Milan; sponsorship of the project of the European School of Oncology aimed at creating the Foundation of the same School, aimed at financing its activities, Milan; participation in the “La Moda Italiana for the Floriani Foundation” event with Gianfranco Ferré Fourrures, Venice; charity event in favor of the Italian Association for Cancer Research at Palazzo Butera, Palermo
90’s
Gianfranco Ferre 1990
1990: Creation of a new mask for the Ambrosian Carnival proposed in the exhibition at Palazzo Dugnani, Milan; participation in “The Art of Fashion”, Diana Vreeland Fund for Exhibitions of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; participation in the exhibition “Moments of Italian design in industry and fashion”, Seoul; participation in the “Florence dreams” event in the Loggia of the Uffizi Gallery, Florence; participation in the “Italia ’90” fashion show, with clothes inspired by Europe, at the San Siro Stadium, Milan; creation of mink garments for the American Legend show, Palazzo della Ragione, Milan; event-fashion show for “Association of Total Fashion”, Tokyo
1991: Participation in the International Textile Forum, organized by the Ratti Foundation, Como; lecture: “Stilism and creativity before the challenges of the new millennium”; charity evening in favor of ANLAIDS – Lombarda section with Gianfranco Ferré fashion show and Gino Paoli concert, Galleria Theater, Legnano; fashion show at the opening of the Gianfranco Ferré boutique in Washington D.C
1992: Participation in the first “Convivio”, as promoter with Armani, Valentino and Versace, Milan; “Gianfranco Ferré” fashion show and launch of the “Ferré by Ferré”perfume at the Opéra Comique, Paris; event-show “Das Gesicht 92”, Berlin
1993: “Chic ’93” event, promoted by the China Tiangong Clothing Science & Technological Development Group, Beijing; “Gianfranco Ferré Uomo” fashion show at the Stazione Leopolda, Florence; guest of honor at the inauguration of the “Creative Haus“, Duesseldorf
1994: Heads exhibited in the exhibition “Japonism in Fashion” at the National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto; participation in the Ravenna Festival, Ravenna; lecture: “Dreams and visions”; participation in “The Fashion Group International Night of Stars”: special tribute to Bernardine Morris, New York; participation in the Enka Viscose project “Creativity at the Opera”, Milan
1995: “AIDS Project Los Angeles” event-show at Century Plaza Hotel, Los Angeles; event-fashion show at the National Palace of Culture, Sofia; “Rédacteur en chef” of the special Christmas issue of “Le Point”, Paris; participation in the exhibition “Between Fashion and Design. Infinite line “at the Palazzo della Triennale, Milan; Studio 000.1 event by Ferré, New York; creation of a dress for the fashion show “Fashion’s world health to peace”, Caesarea / Israel; creation of a quilted stole for the project “A heart for a friend” by ANLAIDS, Milan
1996: Gieffeffe perfume launch event at Saks Fifth Avenue, New York and San Francisco; lecture: “Créateur and couturier experience”, Fashion Institure of Technology, New York; exhibition of drawings, Academy of Art College, San Francisco; participation in the Second International Forum on car style, Turin; lecture: “Design in Fashion”; participation in the first Fashion Biennial “Time and Fashion”, installations in the Cappelle Medicee, Florence; creation of a Christmasgateau exclusively for Lenôtre, Paris
1997: Sponsorship of the F.A.I. event al Castello di Masino “The elegance of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, historical clothes from the Masino Gallery of the Costume of Florence”; participation in the seminar of courses in “Theories and techniques of Architecture” at the Polytechnic, Milan; lecture: “Composition and Fashion”; “Ferré Week”, with a show at the “Sezon Theater”, Tokyo; exhibition “A white story”, Seibu Ikebukuro, Tokyo; lecture: “Designing the subject”, United Nation University, Tokyo; lecture: “The jewel between East and West. A path between design and fantasy “, Domus Academy, Milan; creation of clothes for Dario Fo, winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature, and for his wife Franca Rame, Stockholm; creation of a sheepskin blouson for the charity event “21 designers rething shearling for benefit”, Paris; creation of a denim blouson for DIFFA – Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS “, Dallas
1998: Lecture: “Fashion in the Present, Fashion in the Future: the Values of Creativity” Association for Development in the Fashion Industry, University of Bologna, Bologna; participation in the final plenary session of IAF 1998, Palazzo dei Congressi, Florence; lecture: “The consumer at the center of the fashion designer’s strategy”; opening of the headquarters in Via Pontaccio 21, Milan; party to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the “Gianfranco Ferré” label, Milan; “Immaginario” exhibition-labyrinth in via Pontaccio, Milan; fashion show and charity event in favor of British Red Cross, Banqueting House, Whitehall, London; lecture: “Designing the subject”, Central Saint Martin’s College of Arts & Design, London; participation in the “Intimare” exhibition with the collection “Gianfranco Ferré Underwear” Uomo e Donna, Bologna; fashion show of the GFF Donna Fall / Winter 1998-99 collection, Teatro Franco Parenti, Milan
1999: “F & F” project: packaging for the “Brunello da Montalcino Riserva 2000”, production by Marchesi Frescobaldi, Milan, Berlin, New York, Tokyo; event of Ideacomo, Villa d’Este, Cernobbio; exhibition “Fifteen years of partnership with Sàfilo”, via Via Pontaccio, Milan; costumes for the Biennale Danza created for Carla Fracci and Carolyn Carlsson, Venice; creation of a leather model for the sprinter Marion Jones for the “Tag Heuer” exhibition, Milan; participation as a guest of honor at “Donna sotto le stelle” at Trinità dei Monti, to celebrate 20 years of activity, Rome; creation of costumes for “Le ballet du cadre noir de Saumur” with the étoile Patrick Dupont at the Stade de France, Paris; participation in the “Furtherfantasy” photo exhibition organized by Vogue Italia at the Galleria Giò Marconi, Milan; participation in the exhibition “50 anos de mode italiana”organized by the National Chamber of Fashion Italy, curated by Fiorella Galgano, with the support of Italian and Brazilian authorities and cultural institutions in several cities of the country.
Early 2000s
2000: Participation in the “Le Teddies de l’an 2000” project in favor of British Red Cross, Montecarlo; donation of clothes and accessories from the historical archive Gianfranco Ferré to the Costume Gallery of Palazzo Pitti, Florence; exhibition “Other Emotions”: garments donated to the Costume Gallery of Palazzo Pitti, in an exhibition by Margherita Palli, Florence; donation of archive items to the Fashion Institute of Technology, exhibited at the exhibition “The Corset Fashioning The Body” at the F.I.T. New York; creation of personalized labels for Evian mineral water bottles at Milano Moda Donna AI 2000/01; participation in the “Momi Intimo Designers” event, Fiera Milano
2001: Heads exhibited at the exhibition “Uniform. Order and disorder”at the Stazione Leopolda, Florence; guest of honor at the “Shanghai International Fashion Culture Festival”, Shanghai; lecture: “Creativity and working method”, Fashion Institute, Dong Hua University, Shanghai; event-fashion show at the Museum of Art History, Vienna; participation in the exhibition “Silk. The twentieth century in Como “, organized by the Antonio Ratti Foundation in Villa Olmo, Como; participation in the exhibition “The Entertainers. The power of accessories” at the Stazione Leopolda, Florence; participation in the “Frock and Roll” fashion charity event, organized by Naomi Campbell and Harvey Goldsmith in favor of the “Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund”, together with Alexander Mc Queen, Barcelona; dresses from different collections selected by Luca Ronconi for the “Phoenix” show by Marina Cvetaeva, Piccolo Teatro, Milan; “Gianfranco Ferré Style for men” event in collaboration with Esquire USA, with a still-life display of garments and accessories from the different lines by Man designer, New York
2002 Fall/Winter Collection
2002: “The Best of Gianfranco Ferré” fashion show at the headquarters via Pontaccio, Milan; joining Poste Italiane’s initiative: series of “Design Italiano Alta Moda” stamps, Milan
2003: “Gianfranco Ferré” fashion show-run at the Jeau de Paume Museum, Paris; event for the opening of the spa “E’SPA Gianfranco Ferré” in the renovated boutique in via Sant’Andrea, Milan; event-fashion show with the direction of Asia Argento for the debut of the GF FERRE ‘Donna e Uomo line at Superstudio +, Milan; event-parade of garments inspired by the female characters of opera, State Opera, Vienna; garments exhibited at the Musée des Tissus in the “50 and de mode Italian” exhibition, Lyon; leaders exhibited at the exhibition “Noches Italianas: trajes de excepcion para mujeres extraordinarias” (1950-1990) “hosted in museums in Latin America; guest of “The Monday of Milanese friends” at the Center Culturel Français, Milan; lecture: “The tailor of the two cities”; participation in the “GenovanversaeviceversA” exhibition, promoted by the Modemuseum, with clothes, fabrics and accessories, Antwerp; dresses from different collections selected by Luca Ronconi for the show “Peccato sia sia un sgualdrina” by John Ford on stage at the Piccolo Teatro, Milan; participation in the “Pigotte d’Autore” project, with a charity auction for Unicef, Reggio Emilia; participation as guest of honor at the inauguration of the exhibition “I mantelli delle Castellane” at the headquarters of the Banca di Legnano; event – “Oiseaux d’art” exhibition with an exhibition of the works of the artist Gregory Morizeau in the Gianfranco Ferré boutique in Milan; presentation dinner of the “Essence d’Eau” Women’s perfume in the Gianfranco Ferré offices, Milan; creation of representation seals for football club FC Bayern Muenche
2004 Fall/Winter Collection
2004: Protagonist and guest of honor of the “Life Ball” event-show, 2004, Vienna; items exhibited at the “Excess” exhibition at the Stazione Leopolda, Florence; participation in the TV event “La notte delle stelle” at the Teatro Ariston, Sanremo; participation in the “La mode dessine l’espoir” project, at the invitation of the “Dessine l’espoir” association and under the patronage of the French Ministry of Culture, Paris; supply of archival clothing as costumes for “Peccato alle puttana” by John Ford, directed by Luca Ronconi for the Piccolo Teatro, Milan; opening event of the Gianfranco Ferré boutique on Madison Avenue, followed by dinner at “Le Grenouille”, New York City; participation in the “Carousel Ball of Hope’s Toy Car” solidarity project promoted by Mercedes Benz for the Children’s Diabetes Foundation, Los Angeles; participation in the fashion event organized by Ferrari and the Italian National Chamber of Fashion, Shanghai
2005: Creation of flight and ground personnel uniforms for Korean Air, Seoul; participation in the “Una notte a Roma” television event in Piazza Navona, Rome; fashion show-event for “Fashion in Motion”, Victoria & Albert Museum, London; guest of honor of “Festa Italiana”, Mumbai and New Delhi; creation of uniforms for the hostesses of “Première Vision”, Milan; participation in the “West looks East” solidarity show-event, Washington; participation in the exhibition “The thread becomes history”, organized in the Costume Gallery at Palazzo Pitti on the occasion of the thirty years of Lineapiù, Florence; “stamp” creation for the ten years of “Io Donna”, Milan; launch of the “Gianfranco Ferré Special Order” project: creation of evening garments in different sizes and colors from those presented on the catwalk for individual clients, Milan
2006: Event-fashion show for the inauguration of the Boscolo Hotel in the historic building of the New York Café, Budapest; exhibition “MEx32”, with the creation of 32 T-shirts inspired by the countries participating in the World Soccer Championships, proposed in the Gianfranco Ferré, Florence and Milan boutiques; participation in the “Human Game” exhibition at the Stazione Leopolda, Florence; participation in the “Genio y Figura” exhibition at the Museo del Traje, Madrid; participation in the “Passion for fashion” TV show-event at the Manoel Island, Valletta; participation in “Luxury Conference 2006” organized by the International Herald Tribune at the Sheraton Hotel, Istanbul; lecture: “Exotic inspirations”; solidarity event in favor of the Francesca Nava Foundation: a show by René Fleming at the Teatro alla Scala and a gala dinner at the Gianfranco Ferré headquarters in honor of the soprano, Milan
2007: Sponsorship of the restoration of the painting “Adamo crying Abel” by Johan Karl Loth, exhibited at the Uffizi Gallery, Florence; Donna AI 2007/2008 fashion show: the rock singer Skin wears a top studded with authentic diamonds, at the fashion show follows a live concert at the headquarters in Via Pontaccio, Milan; TV show-event at the Lufti Kirdar Convention and Exhibition Center on the occasion of the first edition of the “Fashion TV Turkey Awards”, Istanbul; lecture: “The forms of emotions. Shaping emotions” at the Faculty of Architecture, Politecnico, Milan; creation of a wedding ring for the exhibition “Eternal Platinum – The ultimate Symbol of Love”, hosted at the Palazzo della Triennale, Milan; October: Participation in the exhibition “Contro Moda. The contemporary fashion of the permanent collection of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art”, Palazzo Strozzi, Florence
Awards and Recognitions
70s / 80s
1976: July, Capri: “Tiberio d’oro”, prize of “MareModa Capri”
1982: October, Milan: “Golden Eye” for the best women’s collection P / E1983
1983: March, Milan: “Golden Eye” for the best women’s collection A / W 83-84; November, Tokyo: “The Best Five”, recognition of the Japanese newspaper Asahi Shimbun and WWD Japan
1984: September, Genoa: recognition of the Chamber of Commerce; October, Milan: “Occhio d’oro” for the best women’s spring / summer collection in 1985; November, Hollywood: Recognition for the costumes of the theatrical piece “Tamara”
1985: March, Munich: “Modepreis”, as the best fashion designer of the year for women’s fashion; April, Bologna: Recognition of the Municipality; May, Mantova: recognition of the “Gazzetta di Mantova”, as part of the “Fashion Awards” event; June, New York: “Cutty Sark Men’s Fashion Award”, as the best fashion designer of the year for men’s fashion; September, Varese, Golf Club: Cup for participation in the collection of vintage bouts and Haute Couture; December, Milan, Palazzo Marino: “Ambrogino d’Oro”, medal of civic merit of the City of Milan
1986: January, Rome, Palazzo del Quirinale: honor of “Commendatore of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic”, by the President of the Republic Sen. Francesco Cossiga; March, Milan: “Golden Eye” award for the best women’s collection A / W 86-87; May, Bologna: plate of “Linea Pelle” to recognize the creative commitment; May, Palermo: AIRC recognition from the City of Palermo; November, Legnano: “Tessera d’Oro” of the Legnanese Family
1987: arzo, Milan: “Occhio d’oro” for the best women’s collection A / W 87-88; May, Tokyo: plate of the “Association of Total Fashion”; November, Legnano: recognition of the Legnano Lions Club and Legnano Carroccio Lions Club in joint session; Turin: “Cavour d’Argento” award. City of Turin”
1988: April, Busto Arsizio: Rotary Professional Award
1989: May, Milan: “Telegatto” Prize, among others awarded, Giulio Andreotti and Enzo Biagi; July, Paris, Palais Galliera Gardens: “Dé d’or” after the first Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior, as the best couturier of the season; July, Rome: special recognition as a fashion character in 1989, by the Associazione di via Borgognona; September, Ischia: “Modaischia 1989” award; November, Legnano: certificate of civic merit of the City of Legnano; December, Milan: “Occhio d’oro” which consecrates the “signature of the year of Italian fashion”; December, Milan nominates “Milanese of the Year” from the “Meneghina Family”
90’s
Vogue Sep 1991 AD Featuring Aly Dunne Photographed by Gianpaolo Barbieri
1990: March, Milan: “The great protagonists”, prize of the “Italian Fur Association”; June, Milan: recognition for participation in Italy ’90; October, Florence Palazzo Vecchio: “Lorenzo the Magnificent”, award of the “Medicean International Academy”
1991: prile, Legnano: recognition of the Busto Arsizio Cisalpino Lions Club; June, Florence, Palazzo Vecchio: “Il Fiorino d’oro” award, from the City of Florence; June, Los Angeles: Recognition of the County of Los Angeles and Music Center of the County of Los Angeles
1992: September, Mexico D.F .: “El sol de oro”, recognition of the Circulo Nacional de Periodistas as “Creador de la elegancia y distinction en European fashion”; December, Vienna: “Diva-Wollsiegel”, IWS award in collaboration with the magazine “Diva”
1993: May, Beijing: appointment to “Senior Adviser” from the “China Tiangong Clothing Science & Technological Development Group and National Garments Research”; official meeting with the President of the People’s Republic of China, Jan Zemin, in the Forbidden City; June, Florence, Palazzo Vecchio: “Pitti Immagine Uomo”, special prize of Pitti Immagine; November, Milan: “Paul Harris Fellow”, Rotary International Rotary Foundation Award
1994: May, Baveno: Lions Club “recognition” plaque; September, New York: “The Fashion Group International” award; November, Campione d’Italia: “Maschera d’oro”, from the Mayor of the City of Campione
1995: May, Los Angeles.Century Plaza: “Crystal Apple Award” special award of the “California Fashion Industry Friends of Aids Project Los Angeles”; November, Milan: “Circolo degli Incontri” plaque, awarded annually to Milanese personalities distinguished in the field of Art and Culture
1996: September, New York and San Francisco: recognition for the participation in the special events Saks Fifth Avenue dedicated to Gianfranco Ferré; October, Milan: “Masters of Linen” special prize of the “European Confederation of Linen and Hemp”
1997: May, Legnano: “Always Licenses” award from the city’s State Scientific Liceo
1999: March, Como, Palazzo Cernezzi: delivery of the City of Como’s keys by the Mayor; March, Como, Villa’D’este “Certificate of Ideacomo” in recognition of his talent and his culture; March, Milan: “Fur Fashion Award – special 50 years” special prize of the “Italian Fur Association”; July, Rome: award of the “National Chamber of Italian Fashion” for twenty years of activity, during the event “Woman under the stars”
Early 2000s
2000: November, Legnano: card of the “Legnanese Family” “Member in the fiftieth year”
2001: April, Shanghai: appointment to “Senior Adviser of Garment Arts” by the Mayor of the City of Shanghai; May, Legnano: Grand Priory of the Contrada della Flora
2002: June, Milan: frieze from the Municipality of Milan
2003: November, Düsseldorf: “Kinder in Not”, UNESCO special prize
Gianfranco Ferre Receiving Awards 2004
2004: March, Berlin, “Star Diamond Award” of “American Academy of Hospitality Sciences” for E’SPA at Gianfranco Ferré; April, Milan: “Silver lady”, prize of the “Association of Friends of the Poldi Pezzoli Museum” awarded to “Men and Women Who Make Great Milan”; September, Sanremo: recognition for participation in “Sanremo Fashion”; September, Milan: career award from “Chi è Chi del giornalismo e della moda”
2005: February, Milan, Teatro alla Scala: “Sigillo Longobardo”, from the Lombardy Regional Council
2006: July, Milan: “Certificate of Appreciation” by the Lions District 108Ib1
2007: March, Milan: appointment as President of the Brera Academy of Fine Arts
Founder and designer of the homonymous clothing brand. Brunello Cucinelli was born in Castiglione (Perugia) in 1953. In 1972 he became a surveyor and enrolled in the faculty of engineering, which he left shortly thereafter. Starting in 1978 he began his career as an entrepreneur and proposed his distinctive character, the colored cashmere.
Brunello Cucinelli Cashmere
In 1982 he married Federica Benda, with whom he had two daughters, and moved to Solomeo, where he gave life to his company. In 1987 he inaugurated his new company headquarters in the fourteenth-century castle of the village.
Brunello Cucinelli Foundation
Foro Delle Arti
Instinctively brought to the knowledge, he devoted himself to humanistic studies (especially to philosophy) and began an activity of recovery and redevelopment of the ancient country, creating spaces dedicated to meeting and culture. The site chosen for the renovation project is the architectural and landscape complex of the Foro delle Arti, where under the aegis of the Brunello Cucinelli Foundation, a theater, an amphitheater and a Neo-nationalist academy are created, with a precious library inside.
Awards
2011 Campaign
At the same time he led his company to the most important successes, inspired by the great ideals of man: ethics, dignity and morals. From the beginning of 2000 his entrepreneurial and humanistic work is celebrated by a series of prestigious national and international awards. This includes: the Presidency of the Teatro Stabile dell’Umbria, Ernst and Young Award as an Italian entrepreneur of the year (2009), Prize Leonardo Qualità Italia (2010), delivered to the Quirinale by the President of the Republic Giorgio Napolitano, Cavalierato of the Italian Republic and Honoris Causa degree in Philosophy and Ethics of Human Relations conferred by the University of Perugia. In 2011 Brunello Cucinelli, was recognized worldwide as one of the most important brands in the luxury sector. The brand is present with several cashmere collections in more than 1000 multi-brand stores, 50 single-brand stores and numerous “shop in shops” spread throughout the various high department stores of the world.
Roberto Cavalli was born in 1940 and is an Italian designer. Referred to as “an artist of fashion,” perhaps to remember his grandfather who was an illustrious painter, one of the Macchiaioli, and the creator of paintings on display at the Uffizi in Florence, his hometown.
Designer Roberto Cavalli With His Models
He attended the Academy of Fine Arts and soon became interested in the relationship between fashion and painting. He investigated various materials in his own print shop, and at the same time experimenting with new technologies. In the 1960s he patented a revolutionary process for printing on leather then he debuted these techniques in Paris, and immediately was recognized by Hermès and Pierre Cardin. At age 32, he presented his first namesake collection at the Salon for Prêt-à-Porter in Paris.
Then, in 1972 he made his début at Palazzo Pitti with his patchworks, which are by now considered a classic of his style, and which are especially typical of his glamorous jeans. Also at this time he opened his first boutique in Saint Tropez. In 1980, Roberto Cavalli married Eva Düringer. He owns an important art Collection with paintings from the 1400s and 1600s and has a fondness for the painters of Siena. He also likes purebreds.
Cavalli Style
Roberto Cavalli Style
The Cavalli woman has a well-defined silhouette. The Cavalli clothes are made to caresses the body, wrap it, and imprison it with often overlapping colored fabrics in fantastic patterns.
Nature is a source of inspiration for Roberto Cavalli. This includes animal skins, sequins in the shape of fish scales, waves that lose themselves in the transparencies of the fabric. The impact of his collections have always been very strong with ferocious wild beasts, angels and demons that peep out from a jacket or from trousers. Feline and witty women find their personality in Cavalli’s style, instinctual and exhibitionist.
Every style is breathtaking. For example, shorts and corsets for a Scarlet O’Hara updated to the year 2000, contoured blazers in prints of leopard, crocodile or lynx, and snake skin as a substitute for spotted patterns of every sort. Then the black of the youth gangs, from the jacket of a wild Marlon Brando to punks and heavy metal lovers. His unmistakable, elegant jackets are made out of very soft deer skin. Something lunar for his micro galactic skirts, and again baroque-patterned jeans.
Anna Falchi and Claudia Koll played the winning couple in a prêt-à-porter presentation in Milan in 1995. The presentation was full of sophisticated elegance with a touch of transgression. Stretch became ultra stretch: a master of leather, he treats it like a canvas on which to paint and the body seems tattooed.
Brand Development
Roberto Cavalli Boutique Milano
The first single-brand boutique opened in Venice in 1996. The brand, Just Cavalli, launched in 2000 with a men’s and womenswear collection, accessories, eyewear, watches, jewelry, perfumes, underwear, and beachwear.
At this time, his brand is distributed in more than 30 countries, directly from the Milan, New York, and Düsseldorf’ showrooms. The home market leads with 35% of the turnover (Europe 25%, Asia 20%). The Russian market is expanding and the U.S. market has already been conquered, with his styles in the windows of the most important department stores. The principal line is gradually supported by CJ Cavalli Jeans, a men’s line, a line of eyeglasses produced by Marcolin, and accessories for men and women. The most recent line is women’s underwear. His wife, Eva Duringer, who works with him professionally, was Miss Universe.
In October 2000, at Milano Collezioni, an entire day is dedicated to Cavalli. After the Collection is presented in the morning, the afternoon sees the opening of his first boutique in Milan, on via della Spiga. A year later, the the company decides the men’s shoe line will be produced and distributed for the next five years by Roberto Botticelli. The Fall/Winter 2001-2002 Collection is inspired by the Old West, with loafers, ankle boots and, above all, cowboy boots with embroidered details.
In March 2001 Cavalli designs two new lines for the watches produced by Sector. For his beachwear he uses the eclectic and comfortable Sensitive fabric made by Eurojersey, personalizing it with his celebrated prints. Later in July, to celebrate his début in Great Britain, Eva and Roberto Cavalli welcome their guests in a Berber tent, thus bringing a piece of Africa to Momo, the historic club in the West End. Among black-and-white striped carpets and copper trays, he presents the new eyeglass Collection, which is produced and distributed by Marcolin.
2001 Turnover
The turnover for 2001 was expected to be 280 billion liras, but by the end of the year the new estimate is 300 to 350 billion liras. The opening of the next single-brand shops is already planned. After Milan, Rome, Jeddah, Paris, New York, and Venice, Cavalli opens a new boutique in Florence in a prestigious location, the ancient Palazzo Viviani della Robbia, with nine large windows on via Tornabuoni. The historic and renovated Caffè Giacosa is connected to the boutique, but it also has independent access. At this point, Cavalli is aiming above all at the “new” markets of Hong Kong, Seoul, Taipei, and Moscow.
Fall/Winter 2002 Men’s Collection
2002 Fall/Winter Menswear
In January 2002 the new men’s Collection for Fall/Winter 2002-2003 is refined, precious and extravagant. It renewed the style of men’s fashion with an irony of excess and fantasy with inspiration drawn from Victorian England. The Collection is presented in Florence at Palazzo Vecchio. The exhibition More and More More and More — The Looks Roberto Cavalli Wants for You, opened. The exhibition was organized by Italo Rota is full of excess, provocation, color, and fun.
In February 2002 the exhibition Men in Skirts at the Dress Gallery of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London displayed work by Cavalli and other designers. Organized with the purpose of celebrating the designers who turned the skirt into a man’s garment, the exhibit is divided into five themes: historical styles, the kilt, exoticism, styles vs. culture, and futuristic styles. Roberto Cavalli finds his natural place in the exoticism section where he shows a linen caftan with animal-tribal prints.
Fall/Winter 2002 Women’s Collection
Fall/Winter 2002 Collection
The Fall/Winter 2002-2003 womenswear collection was an amusing and lively presentation with a touch of self-irony that proposes pieces such as a black tailored suit of Breitschwanz, sophisticated decorated furs, patent-leather overcoats for a cat-woman and calf-length dresses in delicate flower-patterned muslin with long sleeves. Cindy Crawford wore a tight sheath dress in Persian scarlet lamb, a herringbone-patterned fur, and, finally, a long white satin dress embroidered with panther- and tiger-shaped sequins, together with a trench coat in very bright and light snake skin. Something very unusual was a loom-manufactured Scottish fabric in strong colors that was used for tailored suits that had the skirt tight on the hips and then dropped in a flare, and for the tiny jackets worn with jeans. The fabric was also worked in patterned cloths embroidered with silver thread.
In May 2002 for the 85th Giro d’Italia, Cavalli designed the uniforms for Mario Cipollini and his team, in black and white stripes, of course.
Roberto Cavalli Kids Collection
Kids Line 2015
In 2002 Roberto Cavalli Angels, the Collection produced and distributed by Simonetta, is presented at Pitti Bimbo, for Spring-Summer 2003. There are light leather jackets, snake skin patterned jackets, chalk stripe jeans, and oversized overalls in pre-washed fabric. The suede boots on the feet as those of the Navajos, and around the waist are colored raffia belts with plastic beads and feathers. Roberto Cavalli Devils is a new line dedicated to children and kids from 4 to 14 years. It supports Roberto Cavalla Angels, the Collection for little girls and teenagers produced and distributed by Simonetta, who is to manage the new brand as well.
In July 2002 the youth line, Just Cavalli, opened a boutique in Rome, in Piazza di Spagna, of the first boutique dedicated to the youth line Just Cavalli. Roberto Cavalli and Ittierre (It Holding Group) renew, three years in advance, the license for the Just Cavalli line, extending it to 2010.
Cavalli Watches
Roberto Cavalli Watches
In the first six months of the year, the watch line designed for Sector has a turnover of €3.9 million, growing 136%. The reopening of the Torre Branca, ex Littorio, in Milan takes place in October. At the foot of the tower is the Just Cavalli Café, with a counter designed by Ron Arad. Cavalli receives the award The Provocateurs, given to “those who dare.” The ceremony takes place at Cipriani New York, on the occasion of the 19th edition of the Night of Stars, organized by Fashion Group International.
In 2003 black-and-white striped dishes, gold rimmed glasses, and animal-patterned cushions for the house designed by Cavalli. Also, in the main collection the style is a mix between a cowboy and a bikerman presented by Cavalli at Milano Moda Uomo.
Store Openings in US
In April 2003 the brands fourth boutique in the US, in Coral Gables, Florida, called More More and More By Roberto Cavalli is opened. All his Collections, with the exception of the first line, can be found there, including the children’s, accessories, and household lines. The other American boutiques are in New York, on Madison Avenue; in Bel Harbor, Florida; and in Las Vegas.
At this time, the brand opened a new boutique in Porto Cervo, Sardinia. Then, at number 15 in the Tretyakovskiy Passage in Moscow, of the first single-brand Roberto Cavalli boutique in Russia.
Cavalli Events
In April 2004 Cavalli hosts Le Cirque du Soleil in Milan and organized an evening for the première of the extraordinary show Saltimbanco. The designer, with the creative help of Ettore Scola, transforms a warehouse into an enchanted paradise.
Later in December, Cavalli is back in New York to host the most exclusive evening of the year on the occasion of the exhibition organized by the Fashion Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, entitled Wild fashion Untamed. To celebrate the event, the designer organized an exclusive evening: cocktails and an exhibition preview followed by a dinner for 300 selected international guests.
Wild Fashion Untamed Event
In January 2005, Just Cavalli opened their first single-brand store in Milan. It was an innovative project and the result of collaboration between Roberto Cavalli and Italo Rota for a real “fantasy store.” Later this year, Roberto Cavalli with his friend Dino De Laurentiis, together launched the film, The Decameron, a film directed by David Leland, Cavalli designs the costumes. The cast includes: Hayden Christensen, Mischa Barton, and Tim Roth. Roberto Cavalli also collaborated with Tre Italia, the first branded video cell phone. The project includes a donation to the Veronesi Foundation for their cancer research.
Just Cavalli Club
Roberto Cavalli teamed up with Pragma Group in 2009 and opened its first nightclub, Just Cavalli, in Florence. The location used to be a 15th century church. Soon, Just Cavalli club opened in Milan. This business venture also made a 5-year plan to open 3 more Cavalli Clubs and 15 Cavalli cafes.
40th Anniversary
Roberto Cavalli 40th Anniversary Event
2010 marked the 40th anniversary of Roberto Cavalli. On September 29th, the brand hosted an anniversary gala at Ecole National Superieure des Beaux Arts, plenty of celebrities attended the celebration party include Naomi Campbell, Taylor Swift, Leona Lewis, Heidi Klum. Some of Cavalli’s signature designs were also displayed at the gallery of Ecole National Superieure des Beaux Arts. Celebration continues at Milan Fashion Week later, where Roberto Cavalli presented its spring/summer 2011 collection at spectacular 19th-century marble Arco Della Pace.
In 2011 Roberto Cavalli signed a five-year licensing deal with Compagnia delle Pelli for launch a new “CLASS Roberto Cavalli” accessories line. Start to offer both men’s and women’s bags and small leather goods collections. A year later, with their india partner Infinite Luxury Brands, Roberto Cavalli launched its first store in India and a brand new Cavalli Cafe in New Delhi.
Creative Directors
In 2013 Yvan Mispelaere, the former chief designer from DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, was named Roberto Cavalli’s first design director. He unveiled his first collection for Fall/Winter 14. A year later, Roberto Cavalli, before the Just Cavalli Women’s Fall/Winter fashion show, he exclaimed that he refuses to engage with celebrities to promote his brand, and encouraged the fashion world to turn its back to celebrity endorsements.
Fall/Winter 2014 Collection By Yvan Mispelaere
In March 2015 Peter Dundas was pointed as new creative director of Roberto Cavalli. This Norwegian-American designer worked as the former creative director of Emilio Pucci, and in fact, he used to work with Roberto Cavalli very closely when Roberto Cavalli was relaunching his no-holds-barred brand between 2002 and 2005.
Fall/Winter 2016 Collection By Peter Dundas
In January 2016 Peter Dundas presented his first collection and returns to the original Florence fashion house style. He focuses his attention on sensuality, femininity and coolness. This return underlines the ability of the stylist to mix day and night, elegance and beauty but also fierceness. Accessories are composed by boots and earrings with charms.
Clessidra SGR Acquired Roberto Cavalli
One month later, private-equity firm Clessidra SGR acquired 90% of the Italian fashion house. In 2016 February, Roberto Cavalli became the first designer brands to open up a store in Iran. Then, Renato Semerari left the Italian fashion group because of strategic differences, while Gian Giacomo Ferraris was named the new Chief Executive Officer of the company. Later in October, Peter Dundas departs from the label after only one year.
Meanwhile, Gian Giacomo Ferraris announced a comprehensive reorganization of the company, including store closures, severe cuts to global headcount, nearly 30% positions were eliminated, Milan offices were closed, and all functions moved to Florence. Roberto Cavalli employees took action immediately after the dramatic restructure plan and conducted an eight-hour strike.
Current Situation
Spring/Summer 2017 Collection
In May 2017 Roberto Cavalli brand welcomed its new creative director, British-born designer Paul Surridge. Surridge graduated from Central Saint Martins and has experience working under Calvin Klein, Burberry, and Jil Sander. Paul Surridge displayed his first women’s SS18 collection during Milan Fashion Week.
Furla is an Italian leather company that was established in Bologna in a historic 18th century villa in the 1927 by Aldo and Margherita Fulanetto. At first, the company distributed clothing and accessories, then over the years began to manufacture bags, shoes, and leather accessories.
Headquarters in Bologna
In 1955 Aldo opened the first Furla store on Via Ugo Bassi in the heart of Bologna and the brand began to grow. By the 70s the second generation, siblings Carlo, Paolo and Giovanna Furlanetto, took position. Paolo and Carlo took responsibility of the growth of the company, while Giovanna decides the creative direction. At this time the company launched the first handbag and accessories collection with the furla logo. The company took a shift towards the design and production of exclusive leather items. By the 80s the brand has stores in Bologna, Rome, Paris and New York.
The Style
The Furla collections are Made in Italy and embody the Italian craftsmanship, but with a modern twist. They use prized leathers, and have created a special tanning process with an emphasis on detail, supported by the latest technology. The products embody Italian lifestyle and bring that to all parts of the world.
Iconic Metropolis Bag
Accessible luxury has always been the brand’s focus strategy, especially for emerging markets. By adopting contemporary and functional to its design philosophy, creating a glamorous and joyful lifestyle, Furla has engaged with its customers successfully. Brand’s global best seller Metropolis handbag, a clean and liner design, produced from fine materials and pure italian craftsmanship but only cost around €250, it has made luxury affordable.
Success in Italian and Abroad Markets
By 1998 the company reached sales of about €40 million, and had distribution all over the world, with 56 single-brand boutiques in Italy and 24 abroad. In February 2000 the opening of the French market increased sales by 35% compared to 1999. Also during this year, the company founded the “Premio Furla Per L’Arte”, with the purpose to provide visibility to Italian emerging artists.
In February 2002 the company enters the teen, which marked the birth of Furlina, a teenage comic strip character who appears on bags, accessories, and watches. A year later the company sees growth in the domestic market, which was the goal of Giovannna Furlanetto. The corporate strategy for achieving it includes a program that will open two boutiques in Sardinia, in Fort Village and Cagliari, and two in Sicily, in Syracuse and Taormina. Then, in 2007, Eraldo Poletto was appointed the first non-family member chief executive officer.
Fondazione Furla
Fondazione Furla
In 2008 Fondazione Furla is created and supports the Premio Furla per l’Arte award aimed at emerging Italian artists on the contemporary scene. Another important project supported by Giovanna Furlanetto is the Furla Talent Hub, in cooperation with Alta Roma, a reservoir of young and talented designers who have the chance to compete for the creation of a line of shoes for the label.
In the same year, the company launched the male collection, its first shoe line, designed by Max Kibardin, and starts exploring announced that the company signed an agreement with Tamburi Investment Partners, and ready to go public in 2017, become one of few Italian companies to be listed.
In 2013 Italy and Asia-Pacific (especially Japan) represents Furla strongest markets. Handbags sales further increase in 2014 , exceeding their double.
Brand Expansion
Starting from 2014, Furla made significant marketing push, by collaborating with established fashion photographer Mario Testino and his agency. Furla built a 360 degree communication project to reset the tone of voice and brand image. A huge investment was made to support ad campaign to be seen on all kinds of media, including outdoor billboards, press, videos, social media, in store and PR purposes.
Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Mario Testino
Furla opened 111 new shops worldwide in last two years, and 60% of Furla retail network is fully owned by the company. The year 2014 closed with a consolidated turnover of €262 million, and achieved 15% increase compared to 2013.
In 2015 Furla continued to expand its distribution network, in the first half of the year, the company opened 39 new stores, as a result, sales were increased 30% to €151.2 million in the first half of 2015. Japan remains Furla’s most important market. Meanwhile, Furla reached its goal and opened one brand new flagship store in New York.
New York Fifth Avenue Flagship Store
Also at this time, the company appointed former C.Wonder retail executive Scott Links as its new CEO of the US department. With the aiming to becoming a lifestyle brand, now Furla has added new product categories such as women’s shoes, men’s leather goods, accessories, sunglasses, jewelry and watches.
Furla goes Public
The brand closed 2015 with a consolidated turnover of €339 million, and 80% come from abroad markets. In May 2016 Eraldo Poletto, CEO, left Furla.
90th Anniversary
90th Anniversary Capsule Collection
In 2017 Furla celebrated its 90th anniversary by launching a limited collection of its best seller Metropolis handbag during Milan Fashion Week. This limited collection are based on five different colors and nine changeable flaps to narrated a story of music style across 90 years, and each bag represented one iconic music style in every decade. The limited collection was revealed e-commerce. Selling online strengthened the brand, leading to the opening of new concept stores in Milan and abroad and an increase of sales of 45% in three years (2010-2013).
Current Situation
Spring/Summer 2017 Campaign
By 2018 Furla’s network reaches over 1600 points of sales globally, of which 1200 are multi-brand and department stores, and the rest 444 mono-brand store are operating across 100 countries, located in most prestigious shopping area. In addition, brand’s expanded distribution strategy is set to continue throughout 2017.
Emilio Pucci (1914-1992) is an Italian designer who was born in Naples, but his father was of Russian extraction. After studying social sciences at the University of Athens in Georgia, and then in Portland, Oregon, he signed up as an officer in the Italian Air Force in 1938. Having continued his studies with a Doctorate in political sciences at Florence University, he fought courageously in World War II.
His introduction to fashion came about quite by chance in 1947 amidst the snow of Zermatt, where he was training with the Olympic ski team. Toni Frissel, a well-known photographer for Harper’s Bazaar, immortalized Pucci in a shot with a female friend for whom he had improvised a ski outfit.
Emilio Pucci Improvising a Ski Outfit 1947
A year later Pucci’s first collection of sportswear appeared on the cover of the same magazine. His outfits were bought up immediately by the department store Lord and Taylor, and were given the label “Emilio” in the USA. The American market welcomed Pucci’s comfortable and practical fashion.
Pucci Prints
Pucci Prints
Emilio Pucci is highly influenced by Sicilian mosaics, heraldic banners, Bali Batiks, and African motifs. Therefore, he invented a unique style, recognizable for its printed textiles, first stylized, then geometric. Also, for his incredible use of color, which brought together shades in unforeseen combinations. His prints were designed to be shown off at their best when seen in motion on Pucci’s dynamically cut dresses.
The Success
1949 Beachwear Collection in Capri
In 1949, he launched his first beachwear collection in Capri, based on black and white prints created by Guido Ravasi of Como. The collection was a success, so in 1950 Pucci decided to open a boutique on the Canzone del Mare at Marina Piccola. His clothes were cut and assembled in the family home in Florence, where he had set up a small workshop in order to cope with the influx of requests.
First Catwalk
1957 Runway Collection at London
In 1951 his designs appeared in his first Italian runway show, organized by Giovanni Battista Giorgini at Villa Torrrigiani on Via Serragli, Florence. The show was attended by America’s most important buyers. From then on, Pucci would be present at every Florentine fashion show until 1967, the year in which he began to show in his own building on Via dei Pucci. In 1953, his palette of colors became suddenly more daring, printed on shirts, pants, scarves, and dresses in jersey, silk, and synthetic fibers.
Neiman Marcus Fashion Oscar
This range was big news on the international fashion stage, and won Pucci the 1954 Neiman Marcus Fashion Oscar for best designer of the year. Among his most famous were his Sicilian collection of 1956, inspired by the Sienese Palio in 1956, and his Botticelli collection of 1959.
Emilioform
From the very beginning of his fashion career, Pucci was interested in experimenting with materials. In 1953, with Legler, he produced synthetic velvets for sports pants, and in the same year he worked with cotton producers Valle Susa to create printed wally pliss. In 1954 Pucci made famous a new jersey for the production of lightweight, crease-proof clothing.
Emilioform
This was produced by Mabu of Solbiate and Boselli of Como, and made out of very fine silk organza. In 1960 he patented a light, comfortable elastic fabric called emilioform composed of Helanca synthetic and shantung silk. From this Pucci produced his Viva ski-pants and his famous outer-space style Capsule.
First Haute Couture Collection
In 1962, having become increasingly influenced by the Orient, he produced his first haute couture collection. This was notable for its rich fabrics and the workmanship of the embroidery, which included Swarovski crystals attached by hand to the palazzo pants which were already so much in vogue by that time.
1967 Campaign
Collaborations
In 1966 the first Pucci fragrance, Vivara was launched, followed by Miss Zadig in 1974 and Pucci in 1977. Meanwhile in 1968 he had become involved in the creation of menswear, having signed an agreement with Ermenegildo Zegna. Having invented the “total look” ahead of time, Pucci had signed licenses on all sorts of accessories and other items; from lingerie for Formit, to porcelain with Rosenthal; from rugs for Dandolo Argentini to Parker pens. In 1971 he even designed the emblem for NASA’s Apollo 25 space mission. His clothes were sold in no fewer than 51 countries.
Laudomia Pucci
Emilio Pucci With His Daughter Laudomia
In 1980, Pucci’s daughter Laudomia joined his design team, and in 1992 took over her father’s business when he passed away. In the early 2000s the movie Isn’t She Great? is released in which the famous American writer Jacqueline Susann, played by Bette Midler, is such a Pucci fanatic that she even has “Emilio” curtains in her pink study. She wears Pucci from head to toe, and even has a dog called Pucci Poo. The fashion world cannot ignore Puccimania. Katell Le Bourhis, adviser to Bernard Arnault and responsible for the dress collection at the Metropolitan Museum, visited the archives at Palazzo Pucci and was struck by the profound influence of “Emilio.”
Pucci Acquired by LVMH
In April, Cristina and Laudomia Pucci di Barsento — owners of the prêt-à-porter label Emilio Pucci, signed an agreement with LVMH, which acquired 67% of the business. Arnault had listened to Le Bourhis’s advice. The Managing Director of LVMH was the young Catherine Vautrin, who had been on the board since 1998. Laudomia Pucci continues to co-ordinate design and brand policy, whilst the production side of the business is incorporated into the Fashion and Leather division of the Arnault Group, chaired by Yves Carcelle.
Christian Lacroix
In April 2002 Christian Lacroix was appointed Artistic Director of Emilio Pucci. Nobody, possibly, other than the “arlésien” with his Mediterranean spirit, could better take on the legacy of the “Prince of Prints.” Thanks to Lacroix, the shades and combinations of colors of the fashion of an innovative and gifted artist live on. Pucci’s exuberant, optimistic and at the same time highly glamorous vision of life was to be seen both in his ready-to-wear and beachwear collections.
Christian Lacroix Spring/Summer 2006 Collection
Matthew Williamson includes the prints that made Emilio Pucci famous during the ’50s and ’60s in spring summer 2006 collection. He reinterprets them in a modern key on shorter dresses, with more sharp and geometric lines. In the same year, the House of Emilio Pucci works with Omas to create a ballpoint pen in three limited versions, creating an elegant perfect pen for writing thanks to the fantasies created by the Maison.
60th Anniversary
In 2007, the Maison celebrates sixty years and hundred years from the designer’s birth: that year the House launches an ephemeral makeup collection resulting from a partnership with Guerlain, and a new version of the Vivara fragrance, originally created in 1964. A year later, the brand opens an online store.
Peter Dundas 2011 Fall/Winter Collection
In 2009 Matthew Williamson leaves Pucci and Peter Dundas becomes creative director. His style is recognizable from cuts, colors, details and prints enhancing the female silhouette. Later, in 2013 new boutiques opens in Italy and the House plans to open boutiques globally in the fashion capitals. After the ownership of LVMH, Pucci has plans to step out to seek and join the “big boys club” of the luxury apparel labels.
Exhibitions and Events
From April 5 to July 27, 2014, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London organizes an exhibition on the birth of Italian fashion brands, also celebrating the case of Emilio Pucci. The Maison also participated to a LuisaViaRoma and Adidas charity project, customizing the FIFA ball for the World Cup.
In 2014, during Pitti Immagine Uomo, Vogue Italy organizes an event to celebrate Italians designers from Florence, where the name of Emilio Pucci is celebrated with photo shoots from the Vogue Italy archives. Moreover, Emilio Pucci creates the installation “Monumental Pucci”, featuring an iconic print depicting the Baptistery of Florence.
Creative Director: Massimo Giorgetti
In April of 2015 Massimo Giorgetti is named creative director of the brand. He is the young and talented founder of the brand MSGM. He was elected creative director of the fashion house to create a new future for the brand, a pop soul of a tradition of quality.
Massimo Giorgetti 2016 Spring/Summer Collection
On the occasion of the earthquake in central Italy of 24 August 2016, the celebrities come together to support those affected by the disaster. The event “Support from Fashion”, in support of the citizens of Amatrice, is organized in Florence. Pucci and other designers put some of their creations for auction to donate the proceeds to the earthquake victims. Always in 2016, Emilio Pucci and Illy come together to create a collection of coffee cups. The objects of design are part of the Illy Art Collection series, which includes hand-drawn exclusive prints, depicting landscapes dedicated to Florence, Milan, and New York.
Current Situation
Boutique in Seoul, Korea
In April 2017, to tribute the 50th year of Componibili designed by Anna Castelli Ferrieri in 1967, Pucci started a collaboration with Cartel. Together they designed a special version of this iconic storage modules by using brand’s archive print “Campanule” which fully represent the spirit of Emilio Pucci.
At the same time, to strengthen brand’s presence in Asia market, the company opened a new boutique in Korea, located at the Galleria East Luxury Hall in Seoul. With the new opening Emilio Pucci now has a consolidated presence in Asia, operates in major cities like Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Tokyo, and Beijing. In addition, Pucci is presented all over the world in more than 50 countries, also offering its product through its online flagship emiliopucci.com. Brand’s distribution network extends to the world’s most relevant fashion capitals including Milan, New York, Rome, Paris and London, as well as luxury resort destinations such as Portofino and Saint Tropez.
