Adrover, Miguel

Adrover Miguel (1965). Spanish designer, living and working in New York since ’91, born in Calonge, on the island of Majorca, in a family of farmers.

Adrover Miguel (1965). Spanish designer, living and working in New York since 1991, born in the village of Calonge, on the island of Majorca, in a family of farmers. When only 12 he quit school to work on his parents’ farm. Before arriving in the U.S. he spent time in London where was influenced by punk rock and the new romanticism.

Adrover first line

Although a self-taught man, his first line of clothes, Dugg, launched.in 1995, drew the attention of New York’s fashion world due to its innovative character and use of color. In the same year, in partnership with Douglas.Hobbs, he started Horn, a store in Manhattan’s East Village. In a very short time it became a meeting place for avant-guard artists and designers such as Alexander McQueen, Bernadette Corporation and Bless.

The “urban” style invented by.Adrover addresses itself to the typical New Yorker embodying his independent and playful attitude. Still famous is his deconstruction of the Burberry jacket.

In Spring 1999 Miguel offered his vision of the urban woman in the show Midtown. He earned compliments from Anna Wintour, the director of Vogue America, and Carly Horn, a writer for The New York Times. In 2000 three collections were enough to.make him the winner of the CFDA Perry Ellis and Vogue Fashion awards as.the best avant-guard designer.

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Gucci

Acrylic

Acrylic. Synthetic fiber created in 1947 in the U.S. It is light, color-fast, acid-resistant and can be used in any climate condition.

Acrylic. It. is a synthetic fiber created in 1947 in the U.S. usually it is light, color-fast, acid-resistant, and can be used in any climate condition. Also it doesn’t become matted or creased,.dries quickly and doesn’t need ironing. Thanks to its property of retaining heat, it is mostly used in winter clothing. Furthermore, its label name changes according to the manufacturer.(Courtelle,.Orlon, Dupont, Dralon, Bayer).

Acrylic
Acrylic.

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Le Cachemirien

Acid House

Acid House, a youth movement that followed disco funk music, very electronic with a psychedelic sound. It appeared in England in 1989-1990.

Acid house. A youth movement that followed disco funk music, very electronic with a psychedelic sound. It appeared in England in 1989-1990. It was minimalist in dress and anti-fashion. Furthermore, it featured strong colors, fluorescent T-shirts, casual clothes, fabrics printed with the symbols of the era, the “a smile”.

Acid House was, above all, a new way of life, with large musical gatherings in unlikely places and locations (similar to today’s “rave parties”). It shared ideals with the hippy movement of the 1960s and ’70s, a society parallel to the existing one but outside traditional values and rules, where everything was allowed.

Acid House

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Animal prints

Acetate

Acetate. Fabric made of cellulose acetate fiber, used pure or in a blend of cotton, viscose and silk. It was invented in Germany in 1869.

Acetate. Fabric made of cellulose acetate fiber, used pure or in a blend of cotton, viscose and silk. It was invented in Germany in 1869. The Swiss chemists Camille and Henry Dreyfuss continued the research on spun yarn which, during World War I, was used for tarpaulin covers for airplanes. In the 1920s the English firm Celanese Ltd produced the first fabric using the Swiss method. Acetate is still used in all areas of women’s fashion for its silken look. It can be found in taffeta, twill, satin, and cady, in linings and ribbons, in synthetic furs and linen. It can be shiny or opaque. Soft and elastic. Furthermore, it doesn’t crease or shrink and dries quickly.

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Silk

A Bathing Ape

A Bathing Ape. Brand born from the creative flair of the Japanese designer Nigo in 1993. The brand name means: “bathing in warm water”.

A Bathing Ape is a  fashion brand of prêt-à-porter created in 1993 by the Japanese stylist Nigo. He.previously worked as a journalist for various underground periodicals. The brand name literally means “Bathing in warm water”, an expression used to describe the frivolous and comfortable life of Tokyo’s kids today.

The brand A Bathing Ape is mostly known by the acronym BAPE. With its monkey (symbol of the brand) it is now the icon of Tokyo street fashion. Furthermore its strength lies in the continuous diversification of the brand and in the creation of very limited series items. The limited series are sold exclusively in Japan and London.

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Kenzo

Academy of Fashion and Costume Design

Academy of Fashion and Costume Design. It was founded in Rome in 1964 by Rosanna Pistolese. In June 2020 it opened a campus in Milan.

Academy of Fashion and Costume Design. School founded in Rome in 1964 by Rosanna Pistolese. She is a Professor of Costume Design at California State University as well as a journalist, costume designer, fashion designer, historian and fashion expert.

The school offers a four-year course in fashion and costume design. Students study the history, technique and theory of both in parallel coursework. The instructors are university and college professors, journalists and industry professionals. Short courses are also scheduled during the year. Admission is at age 18 after graduation from high school. Those who are already college graduates enroll for only the last two years of study.

Valentino once called the school “a breeding ground for Italian fashion.” Around 70% of the students find a job in the industry. Among its former students who have become famous is Isabella Rossellini. The designs of the students are presented on the runways of the Altaromaltamoda.

A student of the Academy is appointed design director of Exté. He is the 30 year-old Sergio Ciucci who, after studying at the Academy, worked for two years in Japan and later on with Maurizio Galante. His first men’s wear Collection was presented in the Autumn-Winter season of 2003-2004.

In 2014, in on the occasion of the fiftieth anniversary of the foundation of the Academy, a volume entitled Accademia costume e moda 1964-2014 was published by Palombi Editori by Maria di Napoli Rampolla and Antonio Mancinelli.

In June 2020 the new campus was inaugurated. Sara Azzone will direct it. The building is located in via Fogazzaro 23 a few steps from Piazza Cinque Giornate and Corso di Porta Vittoria.

Academy of Fashion and Costume Design’s numbers

It is positioned n.1 in the world (ex.aequo with 2 other international schools) in the Fashion Design category (Graduate and Undergraduate).according to the ranking “The Best Fashion Schools in the World 2019” drawn up by The Business of Fashion (BoF) magazine. The Accademia boasts job start-up rates that exceed 85% on Bachelor’s and 90% on Masters, in Italy and around the world. It collaborates with over 150 companies in the Fashion System (Maison and manufacturing companies) and Entertainment. Furthermore, again in 2019, Accademia Costume & Moda was among the 25 best fashion schools in the world having been included in the international ranking drawn up by the Fashionista magazine “The Top 25 Fashion Schools in the World: 2019”.

In recent years, there have been many students who have positioned themselves as finalists and winners of important international awards and competitions (LVMH Graduate Prize, ITS Award, Mittelmoda, Milano Moda Graduate, just to name a few). By way of example, with reference to the prestigious international LVMH Graduate Prize competition organized by the LVMH Group, Academy of Fashion and Costume Design boasts 3 victories in the last 4 years, and is the only Italian fashion school to have ever won it to date and the second school in the world by number of wins.

Many of the alumni are today some of the most important professionals of the fashion system. Creative directors, entrepreneurs, heads and senior designers, product managers, journalists, stylists at national level and international.

Academy of Fashion and Costume Design provides study courses legally recognized by the Ministry of University and Research (MUR) and falls within the sector of Higher Education in Music and Dance (AFAM).

Recent years

The “Fiamma Lanzara” Library-Newspaper Library, named after its historic President, together with the Historical Archive, represents the largest fashion cultural documentation center in Lazio. The Library has 4,500 monographic volumes and 12,000 magazine issues. It covers more than 150 years of fashion journalism. It is the first documentation center for fashion in Italy to have received -.from the General Directorate of Archives of the Ministry for and.cultural and tourism activities (MIBACT) – recognition of “exceptional cultural interest for the characteristics.and peculiarities of the materials possessed.”

Furthermore in 2020, Academy of Fashion and Costume Design opened a Campus in Milan. It is dedicated to the areas of Communication and Design Management for Fashion and Entertainment.

On November 9, 2020, after a long illness, President Fiamma Lanzara passes away. “Vision, determination, passion, heart, resilience, strength, generosity and love”, these are the words used by her son Lupo in memory of a woman who wrote, in fifty years of work, a good story of Made in Italy.

Absinthe

Absinthe. A boutique opened in Paris in 1990 by Marthe Desmoulins with a preference for the fashion of the 1920s and ’30s.

Absinthe. It is a boutique opened in Paris in 1990 by Marthe Desmoulins with a preference for the fashion of the 1920s and ’30s. She prefers strong colors and shaded tints to black in order to create elegant, poetic and very feminine lines. She offers clothes and accessories such as shoes, hats, jewels and handbags with a preference for artisanal goods.

The creations of Dries Van Noten, Julie Skarland, Abe Hamilton, Isabelle Marant and Youneda Kasuko could be found there.

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A Bathing Ape

Accardi, Carla

Accardi Carla (1924-2014). Italian painter. In 1949 she created for her own use a sculpture-brooch in gold with diamonds, pearls and corals.

Accardi Carla (1924-2014) was an italian painter. She was born in Trapani on October 9, 1924. In 1949 she created for her own use a sculpture-brooch in gold with diamonds, pearls and corals.

In the post-war period it is one of the most important pieces of art-jewelry directly inspired by a work in gouache from the period of Forma 1, the name by which a group of Italian abstract artists described themselves.

Carla Accardi.
Carla Accardi.

She was part of feminism in Italy by setting up the “Rivolta Donne” group.

Carla Accardi died on February 23rd, 2014 in Rome.

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Antonio Marras

Guardiani, Alberto

The Origin

Line of men’s and women’s shoes manufactured by Nuova Centauro. The firm, whose focus is the comparison between tradition (in style and technique) and innovation, was established with the name Centauro in 1947 by the brothers Luigi and Dino Guardiani in Montegranaro, Italy in the Marche region. In 1972 Alberto Guardiani, Dino’s son, took over the business, at a moment when Dino was the sole proprietor.

Alberto Guardiani Men Shoes
Alberto Guardiani Men’s Shoes

In 1980 Alberto renamed the company, Alberto Guardiani, launched a women’s line and, while maintaining production of the firm’s classic items. Also, he launched Low Tide, a brand aimed at young people and the sports market.

In 1999 in Montegranaro, Ascoli Piceno, the company built a vertically integrated plant that could design, cut, and assemble garments, with an atelier for the finishing touch.

Alberto Guardiani Development

February 27, 2007 Alberto Guradiani opened a new showroom at 29 Corso Venezia in Milan. The showroom is in an 18th-century building that was originally a monastery where pilgrims could stay and was later turned into a residence by the Calzoni-Sforza family. It is an ideal stage for Alberto Guardiani’s style, a poetic landscape for exclusive goods and an expression of democratic luxury.

Also, in 2007 the brand opened a new store in Piazza di Spagna in Rome and a year later in Naples. “This is the first step on a tight agenda that will see, by February 2008, the opening of two further single-brand stores in Italy, another two important pieces in our retail development plan. So far, there are 11 single-brand shops across the world”, explained Alberto Guardiani.

In March 2009 the brand released the Eiffel Tour limited edition collection to celebrate 120 years off the symbol in Paris. To celebrate, Alberto Guardiani signs a limited edition where a Eiffel Tour shines on the black patent leather like the sky of a Parisian night.

Icon: Lipstick Heel

Alberto Guardiani Lipstick Heel
Alberto Guardiani Lipstick Heel

Alberto Guardiani’s lipstick heel is a pump with a lipstickshaped heel. It is both a shoe and an icon that draws inspiration from the great stars of the past and the present. It plays with the glamorous and provocative atmosphere of La Dolce Vita, symbolised by Anita Ekberg’s sensual ruby lips.

Current Situation

Today, the brand is run by Alberto Guardiani and Rossella Beato Guardiani. In 2016 Serena Guardiani, daughter of Alberto and granddaughter of founder Dino, has been appointed creative director of the brand’s women’s collections. Serena graduated from Milan’s Istituto Marangoni and joins her elder sisters Rubina and Guya within the company.

Alberto Guardiani SS 2018
Alberto Guardiani Spring/Summer 2018

VERSACE

Gianni Versace S.p.A. is an Italian luxury fashion company founded by Gianni Versace, one of the greatest Italian fashion designers, in 1978.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. The Beginning of Versace
  3. Gianni’s Style
  4. Collaboration With The Arts
  5. Gianni Versace’s Death
  6. The Brand Re-Launched
  7. Brand Development
  8. Collaboration With H&M
  9. Current Situation

The Origin

Young Santo, Donatello and Gianni Versace
Portrait of young Santo, Donatella and Gianni Versace

Gianni Versace (1946-1997) was one of the greatest Italian designers, founder of the company of the same name, Gianni Versace SpA. Born in Reggio Calabria in 1946, Gianni Versace took his first steps in the world of fashion, helping his mother, a dressmaker, owner of a clothing store that, in addition to selling ready-made models, produced its own line. In 1972, a trip to Milan opened the doors of the industry when, called by Ezio Nicosia and Salvatore Chiodini, to collaborate in a collection for Florentine Flowers. His creations were a success and his name began to turn among the insiders, allowing him to continue working in the Lombard capital. He designed for De Parisini, Callaghan, Genny and Alma companies.

The Beginning of Versace

Versace Supermodels in the 1990s
Versace Supermodels in the 1990s

In 1976, with the help of his accountant brother Santo, he founded the company that bears his name and the first women’s collection was presented two years later, at the Palazzo della Permanente. Gianni Versace’s success was instantaneous. A style immediately applauded by the international press, enthusiastic about his clothes full of genre contaminations, paves the way for him.

Also, the brand contributed to the birth of the phenomenon of supermodels: Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, and Christy Turlington. Gianni was the first to bring out the character of the models as well as enhance their beauty. At this time, the Versace model was transformed. She is no longer a model but a role model, she has personality and embodies an ideal to be achieved, for all women.

Gianni Versace With Supermodels
Gianni Versace With Supermodels

In the meantime, his sister Donatella, Gianni’s muse and advisor, had also joined the company. Initially she took care of the public relations and brand communication, collaborating in the creation of important advertising campaigns with Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, Bruce Weber and Steven Meisel. But, above all, the most memorable shots were with the photographer Richard Avedon. He exalted the image of the fashion house in the world fashion firmament; a partnership that lasted for several seasons and which will wrote many pages of the history of communication. Subsequently, Donatella became creative director of the young Versus line.

Gianni’s Style

Versace was able to mix with ease the contemporary languages ​​of pop art with elements of Greek culture (hence the logo of the Medusa inspired by Greco-Roman iconography), alternating Renaissance and Baroque motifs with precious embroidery and psychedelic colors.

The success of the maison conquered the whole world, even the United States, where the ultra modern and extravagant style was increasingly appreciated. All the Eighties and the beginning of the Nineties were characterized by the territorial expansion of the brand and by very successful collections that built the empire still standing.

Versace Campaign 1994 Models Nadja, Christy, Claudia, Cindy and Stephanie
Versace Campaign 1994 Models Nadja, Christy, Claudia, Cindy and Stephanie

The fashion shows presented iconic pieces from the era, including very tight and colorful fuseaux with inlays, dresses in meshes of metal fibers, silks with geometric patterns, jackets with prints of pop culture icons. Versace risked a lot in presenting such a daring and avant-garde fashion, but made every garment and treated it as a work of art and as a result was always rewarded by both the public and the critics.

Collaboration with the Arts

Besides being a great collector, Gianni also worked in close contact with the world of theater, opera and ballet. His long collaboration with the Teatro alla Scala in Milan, which was very important, began in 1982. Gianni created the costumes of the ballet Josephlegende (by Richard Strauss, directed by Luigi Veronesi) and continued to create for many other performances by great choreographers and directors such as as Maurice Béjart, Robert Wilson, Rolant Petit, John Cox, William Forsythe and Twyla Tharp. There were many celebrities that boasted friendship with Gianni Versace, including Lady Diana, his friend and confidant, the singer Elton John, for which in 1992 he designed the cover of the album as well as all the costumes of his World Tour, and the top model Naomi Campbell.

Versace Home Collection
Versace Home Collection

Gianni was the owner of immense villas scattered around the world, and he loved to furnish them with contemporary works of art, imperial furniture and Greek-Roman statues. He was also one of the first designers to launch a line for the home: the Versace Home Collection that will include furnishings, furnishing accessories, lamps, linens, tiles, porcelains and crystals.

Gianni Versace’s Death

The tragedy occurred on July 15, 1997. Gianni Versace is murdered on the steps of Casa Casuarina, in Miami, shot. The murder shocked the whole world raising many doubts and questions about the motive of the murder, which is still unclear. The killer, Andrew Cunanan, was found dead a few days later. It was a blow to the Medusa, for his family, but also for the whole Italian fashion system that will suddenly lose one of its biggest points of reference.

After Gianni’s death, the creative direction was handed over to his sister Donatella who inherited 20% of the company’s value and was also the charismatic new face of the fashion house. 30% will go to Brother Santo, president and then CEO. The majority of the stock (50%), for a value then estimated at $700 million, will go to the beloved nephew Allegra, daughter of Donatella and Paul Beck.

The Brand Relaunched

Madonna For Versace Campaign
Madonna For Versace Campaign

The death of the founder does not open an easy time for the company which saw its business in decline right at the turn of the new millennium. At the end of 2000 the new company structure was outlined, focused on a holding company and two subsidiaries; the same year a long-term agreement was signed with Euroitalia, for perfumes and cosmetics. For several years the company had difficulty competing with the glories of the past. Multiple managers alternated at the top of the administration, until 2004, when the company found stability with Giancarlo Di Risio, who was ready to start the company reorganization by relaunching the brand.

Advertising investments were enhanced, which involved more and more celebrities from the world of cinema and music. For Donatella, a famous testimonial communicates the character of a collection more easily and quickly. Celebrities who posed for advertising campaigns worldwide includes; Madonna, Demi Moore, Christina Aguilera, Halle Berry, Patrick Dempsey.

Halle Berry For Versace Campaign
Halle Berry For Versace Campaign

There was a lot of focus on upgrading the prêt-à-porter line, enlisting the two new fashion designers Warren Davis and Kinder Aguggini, respectively for the men’s line and the younger line. Also, Versace activated ambitious expansion policies in transversal luxury projects, diversifying its business with interior design and furnishing for private jets, yachts and helicopters.

It will also strengthen its territorial presence in the Far East with strategic agreements and acquisitions for a chain of Versace Luxury Hotels; the first of these opened in 2000 on the Australian Gold Coast, followed by another in Dubai. In 2006 the Versace Theater was inaugurated in Milan, a multifunctional space that also served as a location for future fashion shows. The following year is the tenth anniversary of Gianni’s death, which is remembered with a ballet by Maurice Béjart, presented at the Scala in Milan. Also, the biography The myth Versace (Dalai editore) is also published and a special scholarship is established that bears his name, in collaboration with the European Institute of Design.

Brand Development

Since 2008, while the collections received increasing support, the group announced an important expansion plan in Asia, which took shape in the following years with the opening of several stores in China. In 2010 more than 20 single-brand stores were presented in the “Asian giant” with excellent sales performance and further expansion forecasts. From 2009, Gian Giacomo Ferraris, took over from Giancarlo Di Risio, in the role of managing director. Gian Giacomo Ferraris cut costs, revised the network of direct shops and reduced investments. At this time, the brand officially announced the passage of the license of Versus from Ittierre to the Facchini group, which took charge of the production of clothing and accessories of the young line.

Versace Versus SS15
Versace Versus SS15

In 2010 there will be an increase in revenues that exceed the ceiling of €292.3 million, up 9.1% compared to the previous year. After the international crisis, a plan to reconquer Japan was planned, which in 2009 saw the closure of its three single-brand stores. Hiroshi Saito was appointed as chief executive officer of Versace Japan and opened new stores as well as additional points of sale to reinforce the presence of the brand in the area.

Collaboration with H&M

Versace Collaboration With H&M 2011 Campaign
Versace Collaboration With H&M 2011 Campaign

In 2011 important collaborations of media impact were signed. In June the partnership between the fashion house Versace and the Swedish clothing giant H & M was announced. Starting from November, the clothing chain would sell 40 women’s and men’s 20 pieces, including several accessories, for a low-cost, strictly limited edition line, signed by Donatella. A way to bring the Versace world closer to a younger and wider audience. There was the most iconic pieces of the whole Versace, but also what the fashion house represents today in its continuous evolution. There were famous prints, lots of leather and studs because Versace is sexy and glamorous but also rock’n’roll.

Starting from July 1, 2011, Versace gave life to another collaboration with a strong media echo, announcing that it will wear the International Football Club of Milan. The agreement is signed between the fashion house and the Nerazzurri company, with the supply of official uniforms for managers, coaches, technical staff and players.

Current Situation

Naomi Campbell Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show a Tribute to Gianni Versace
Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show a Tribute to Gianni Versace

Versace in now owned and managed by the family (50% Allegra Beck Versace, 30% Santo Versace, 20% Donatella Versace). Currently, Santo Versace is president of the group’s board of directors and Donatella is creative director as well as vice president of the board of directors. The company creates, produces and distributes luxury and lifestyle products including the Haute Couture Atelier Versace range, ready-to-wear collections, accessories, jewelry, watches, eyewear, fragrances and home furnishings and the second Versus line.

Today the Gianni Versace S.p.A. It is one of the most prestigious names in the international fashion luxury scene. The brand distributes its products through a network of 110 boutiques present in the main cities of the world, plus the 123 shop in shops dedicated in the main department stores and multi-brand stores.

Donatella Versace at Spring 2018 Milan Fashion Week Collection
Donatella Versace at Men’s Spring 2018 Milan Fashion Week Collection