Bailey, David Royston

Bailey David Royston (1938). English photographer. He was self-taught and became interested in photography while in the army.

Bailey David Royston (1938). English photographer. He was born on January 2, 1938 in a poor London neighborhood. Bailey, a self-taught photographer, became interested in photography while in the army, fascinated by a photo by Henri Cartier Bresson. At the end of the war he began to work as an assistant to the fashion photographer John French, who chronicled the taste of the high bourgeoisie. When barely 22, David, who had already experienced the anxieties of the generation of “angry young men” who were fans of jazz (he is a good trumpet player) and the theater of John Osborne, was discovered by Vogue. It was the 1960s when Vogue hired him.

Bailey
Queen Elizabeth II by Bailey.

Bailey also worked freelance for Elle, Glamour, the Daily Express, the Sunday Times, and the Daily Telegraph. He took his photos with the same spontaneity with which he lived in the swinging London of the time, surrounded by fame, by the friendship of rock stars, and by the love of very beautiful women such as Catherine Deneuve, who he married in 1967 and would be the second of his four wives. All this inspired Michelangelo Antonioni in his film Blow Up. In fact the character of the photographer played by David Hemmings is based on him and on John Cowan.

His nonchalance and his rapid style made him part of the counter-culture.

With his friends Terence Donovan and Brian Duffy, he was a member of The Terrible Three. His pictures, with their great freshness of execution and extraordinary spontaneity, were very much influenced by film, especially by the Nouvelle Vague.

Bailey
Jonny Depp by Bailey, 1995.

Publications and awards

Bailey always worked with a single model, first Jean Shrimpton and then Marie Helvin. He always places great emphasis on the relationship between the dress and the person wearing it. He published several books, including David Bailey’s Box of Pin-Ups (1965), Goodbye Baby and Amen (1969), David Bailey’s Trouble and Strife (1980), If We Shadows (1989), The Lady Is A Tramp (1995), Birth of the Cool (1999), and Chasing Rainbows (2000). Moreover, he made two films, one about Cecil Beaton (1971), and one about Andy Warhol (1973). He has had many exhibits all over the world, including the great anthological retrospective show at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum in 1984. He is an honorary member of the Royal Photographic Society.

Furthermore he is also a serious collector. Among his favorites find Man Ray, Roger Fenton and Henry Fox Talbot, the Englishman considered, for his calotypes, one of the inventors of photography.

In 2001 he was awarded the Order of the British, an order of chivalry established by King George V on 4 June 1917.

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Backhaus, Maria Vittoria

Backhaus Maria Vittoria (1942). Italian photographer. She works in Milan. She has worked with Armani, Versace, Zegna, Tod’s and many others.

Backhaus Maria Vittoria (1942). Italian photographer. She works in Milan and is considered one of the best for taking still life photos of accessories, jewels, objects, adn the kitchen. She studied set design at the Accademia di Brera and began her career as a reporter for the weekly magazine Tempo in the second half of the 1960s. Later she worked in fashion, collaborating especially with Vogue Italia and becoming a close friend of Walter Albini. After arriving at the monthly Casa Vogue, under the direction of Isa Tutino Vercelloni, she began to work with still life, quickly demonstrating her talent, taste, and skill at working with lights. She favors large-format photography.

Backhaus
A young Maria Vittoria Backhaus with her camera.

During her career, among many others, she worked for Giorgio Armani, Braccialini, Cartier, Casadei, Della Valle, Dolce & Gabbana, Gianfranco Ferré, Salvatore Ferragamo, La Rinascente, Moncler, Prada, Sambonet, Tod’s, Trussardi, Versace and Ermenegildo Zegna .

She is the niece of Arnaldo Mussolini and the daughter of Vito.  He was the last editor-in-chief of Popolo d’Italia. She married Giorgio Backhaus, the translator of Max Horkheimer and Theodor Adorno, philosophers of the Frankfurt School.

Her work has. also been published on Amica, Io Donna, Elle, Vogue and Wallpaper.

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Durst, André

Durst André (1907-1949). French photographer. His pictures are closely connected to the formation of Surrealism. He has also worked for Vogue.

Durst André (1907-1949). French photographer. His pictures are closely connected to the formation of Surrealism. After arriving in Paris from Marseilles, he met often with Cocteau and Bérard. In 1934, he documented the Patou collection for French Vogue. Two years later, the magazine put him in charge of the photo department. They also made him responsible for photo features on the work of the great Parisian tailors from Balenciaga to Rochas.

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Arbus Nemerov, Diane

Arbus Nemerov, Diane (1923-1971). American photographer born in New York into a wealthy family of Russian origin. She worked with Vogue, Glamour and others.

Arbus Nemerov, Diane (1923-1971). American photographer born in New York into a wealthy family of Russian origin — the Nemerovs — that owned the Russeks department store on Fifth Avenue. At the age of 18 she married Allan Arbus and together they opened a photographic studio interested in fashion, doing work for Vogue and Glamour. She concentrated on taking the photos, she on the visual concept.

Arbus
Diane and her husband, Allan Arbus.

The collaborative/marital crisis

By 1957 their collaboration was beginning to wear thin, just like their marriage. Allan began to take acting lessons. Then Diane went around the city taking pictures. The studio was officially closed only in 1969. It was in this period that Diane’s personality as a photographer came out. This was partly thanks to the encouragement of her teacher, the great Lisette Model, but also to the influence of photographers such as Weegee and Robert Frank, with their “rough style,” and the rigorous August Sander.

Arbus in the 1960s

In the 1960s she worked for Junior Bazaar, Esquire, Nova, The New York Times, and New York Magazine (starting with its very first issues, when it was the Sunday magazine of the Herald Tribune).

Arbus
Some portraits on Infinity magazine.

She published portraits in Infinity and worked with Richard Avedon and Marvin Israel on Picture Newspaper, a large-format photomagazine which published twelve issues from 1968 to 1971. She was also interested in teaching and held several workshops. And finally, she had a column in Harper’s Bazaar entitled At My Age. She often alternated fashion pieces with images that were harsh, and sometimes violent, in a language that was blunt and basic.

After working many years with a Leica, she turned to the square-format Rolleiflex, at the same time changing her aesthetic vision. In 1967 her great solo exhibit at the Museum of Modern Art in New York made the photos famous. It also emphasized the anxious and fragile aspects of her character. In 2006 Nicole Kidman played the photographer in the film “Fur – An imaginary portrait of Diane Arbus“.

Arbus

The fictional story aims to show how Diane was able to appreciate the world of diversity by gradually entering the world of the Freaks. Until she fell in love with Lionel and his fur.

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Art Kane

Arthur Kaanofsky, also known as Art Kane (1925-1995). American photographer, born in New York, in the Bronx, to a family of Russian Jewish immigrants.

Arthur Kaanofsky, also known as Art Kane (1925-1995). American photographer, born in New York, in the Bronx, to a family of Russian Jewish immigrants. Art Kane, whose real name was Arthur Kanofsky, became famous as a graphic designer at a young age and, when 27, was hired by Esquire, the youngest art director of his time.

Art Kane and and photography

He decided to become a photographer, and suffered a demanding apprenticeship under Alexey Brodovitch, the legendary art director at Harper’s Bazaar. By the end of the 1950s Kane had made a name for himself in photography as well, thanks to a very personal style. He was the first, in fact, to use an extreme wide-angle lens of 21 mm and produced well-known images shot close-up from below of models such as Verushka, Jean Shrimpton, and Margaux Hemingway, published by Vogue, Look, Life, McCall’s, Esquire and Harper’s Bazaar.

Art Kane
From underneath.

Not just fashion

In addition to his fame as a fashion photographer, he is known for his photos of musicians, especially jazz musicians. Since his death, the artist’s archive has been managed and preserved by the Art Kane Estate. His son Jonathan is an expert on the work and one of its greatest supporters. Kane’s celebrated photograph in which the rock band The Who is completely wrapped in the flag is imitated by other young groups such as Oasis and repeated twenty years later by the original English band.

Art Kane
The famous picture with The Who.

The Govinda Gallery of Washington, D.C. mounted a solo exhibition for the artist, in collaboration with his foundation. Fashion photos and pictures of pop idols and various American celebrities were among the exhibited works.

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