Lanvin
30 September 2022
Lanvin is a French fashion house, renowned because of its sumptuous haute couture: its foundation, by the couturière Jeanne Lanvin, dates from 1885.
Index
The origins
Lanvin was opened in 1885 in Paris by Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) who had completed an apprenticeship in the atelier of the milliner Madame Félix. When, 13 years later, she married the Italian Emilio di Pietro, she was already well known. Her daughter was Marguerite Marie-Blanche: since her birth the dressmaker created paired outfits for mothers and daughters. During the 1920s the success of the maison Lanvin was extraordinary. Her creations, moderates in the volumes, are embellished by embroideries which, by outlining ancient patterns, made them uniques. The founder, a woman of exquisite taste and in tune with her time, partnered with artists of the time, between exoticisms and suggestions from the East.The Lanvin logo
Paul Iribe designed the silhouette of a mother bent over her daughter, taking inspiration from a photo realized in 1907, during a costume party. It’s still today associated with the very successful perfume Arpège (launched in 1927), whose black bottle was designed by Armand Rateau, the creator of the Pavilion of Elegance at the famous Exhibition of Decorative Arts (1925), which Madame Lanvin was the President of. Lanvin dressed actresses, singers, and movie stars, from the Dolly Sisters to Yvonne Printemps and to Arletty for the film Les Enfants du Paradis (1945). After Jeanne’s death, her daughter took over the reins of the maison: the choice of Castillo as fashion designer (his stylistic direction lasted from 1950 to 1963) introduced a period of success that achieved its height when Maryll, the wife of Yves Lanvin and niece of the great Jeanne, invited the Belgian François Crahay (at Lanvin from 1968 to 1984) to replace Castillo. His colorful and magic collections were awarded with the Dé d’Or three times. And when Montana (1990-1992) replaced Crahay, his collections too won the same award. Since 1976 the griffe has produced a line of prêt-à-porter clothes that has been run by Dominique Morlotti since 1992. In 1994 the brand was acquired by the giant L’Oréal and registered an increase of the revenue, representing the 4 % of the sales of L’Oréal Group.From Alber Elbaz to Bruno Sialelli
In 2001 Alber Elbaz was appointed new fashion designer of the maison. In the same year, Lanvin became an independent company, after L’Oréal sold it. In 2003 Christophe Blondin, who run Lanvin man for two years, left the brand: he was replaced by Martin Krutzky. After fourteen years of Creative Direction, Elbaz left his role, due to the incompatibility with Michèle Huiban, CEO of the company. In 2016 he was replaced by French fashion designer Bouchra Jarrar, who already worked in Jean Paul Gaultier, Balenciaga and Lacroix. But her contribution didn’t last long: after sixteen months, due to the scarce success her collections gained and the consequent, inevitable, loss of profits, Jarrar was fired; Olivier Lapidus succeeded her. In 2018 the maison was acquired by Fosun Group and, in 2019, after frequent rumors, it announced the entry, as Creative Director, of Bruno Sialelli, ex Loewe, who declared: “I’m glad and honored to join Lanvin, a fashion house founded by a visionary woman who, being among the first French couturiers, dared to offer a global universe with a wide expression field. Bringing emotions through engaging stories and defining a modern attitude will be exciting challenges in order to keep this heritage”. The fashion designer brought in the brand freshness and contemporaneity. The new Lanvin era relied on over volumes, ruches and vitamin colors. On 2021, the brand experienced many changes in roles, also due to the necessity of a new asset after the COVID-19 pandemic. So, in 2020, the CEO Jean-Philippe Hecquet left the company and was replaced by general managers Arnaud Bazin and Grace Zhao. The aim was to rely on accessories (sneakers, costume jewelry and jewelry) to make the griffe profitable in two years. On April 2023 Sialelli left the Creative Direction of Lanvin, which decided to reorganize its structure to maintain the economic growth reached in 2022: the fashion house keeps on presenting its main collection in Paris runways, but it decided to concentrate on accessories and leather goods, which are the most profitable sectors. Moreover, it decided to create the Lanvin Lab, a place dedicated to partnerships with external talents.You may also like:
Veronese, Ettore Joyce Contacts: [email protected] To read the item in Italian click here.
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