Naomi (1970). Canadian designer. She is the author of No Logo, the bible of the people of Seattle. The book opens with a analysis of the social and economic role which brands have played in the last 30 years. Nike, Shell, and McDonald’s are three logos taken as examples. This is her background: “My grandfather organized the first strike at Walt Disney, my father and mother were Leftist radicals.” Klein’s next book was published in 2003, Fences and Windows, which assembled two years of interventions and comments written about demonstrations and meetings. She writes for The Guardian, Newsweek International, New York Times and The Village Voice.
Yumi. Japanese designer of high-quality fashions. She presented a Collection in Rome in 1999. She started her career as a designer of bridal dresses in 1963. In 1988 she officially opened the Museum of the Bride in Kobe which has 55 of her dresses, representating 25 years of activity. In 1994 she opened the Yumi Katsura Bridal House in New York. In 1998 she publicized herself with a celebration in the Palace of the Bride in Tokyo, with a Victorian style chapel on the sixth floor. Her creations are on sale at Saks, Bergdorf Goodman, and Neiman Marcus. Brooke Shields and Yoko Shimada have modeled for her. In addition to the New York bridal house, she has 7 more stores in the US.
Adeli (1967). Designer of Iranian origin. She has been living in the United States since the age of 10. She grew up in Los Angeles and, while still a teenager, started designing clothes for herself and her friends. In the early 1990s, she worked as a designer for the group Parallel and, in 1996, decided to quit that company to launch a line with her name. When it seemed that Stella McCartney was not going to renew her contract with the fashion house Chloé, Katayone Adeli was in the list of the possible successors. In 1999 she was included in the small group of new talents for the Perry Ellis Award by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. In September of the same year, she opened her first store in Bond Street, New York. Her clothes are nowadays on sale in the best stores in London, Paris, and Tokyo.
Franµois (1904-1979). Hungarian photographer naturalized French. In exile in Paris in 1924, during the Horthy regime he first worked as a worker at Renault, then as a photographer for several agencies, eventually getting published in L’Illustration. He mixed reportages (including a famous one commissioned to him by Horizons de France on the world of labor) with advertising photography (Dunhill), portrait photography (Coco Chanel, Edith Piaf), and fashion photography, for which he used the avant-garde techniques of that time: solarization, exaggerated perspectives, and over-exposure. During the 1930s, he photographed the great Collections by Fath, Balenciaga, Lanvin, and Balmain for Harper’s Bazaar, Le Figaro illustré, Les Modes, L’officiel de la Couture, L’Art et La Mode, and Die Dame. In 1934 he published the book 25 Photos de Kollar. The 1989 retrospective at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris allowed the public at large to rediscover his art. In 1987 his archives were donated to the French State.
German research institute on fashion. Its headquarters are in Munich and it has been open to the public since 1970. It takes its origin from the Collection of Hermine von Parish and includes monographs, periodicals, books, and documents which describe fashion from the beginning of the 1900s to the present day.
Italian monthly about fashion, art and design or “creative avant-gardes” as the line under the title says. Established in Milan in 1998, it is published by Pem. Its articles treat several themes, stressing the new trends in cinema, theater, and visual arts, with particular attention to the influences between the different art forms. The emphasis is on fashion, with beautiful pictures by innovative and often young photographers. They layout is very captivating and strong, but it is not superficial and never redundant.
Line of shoes and sportswear created in 1966 thanks to an idea by the brothers Art and Ernest Brunner, Swiss Olympic skiers who moved to California and became tennis players. The first product (later reproposed, was the Classic, the company’s best-selling article) was a tennis shoe made entirely in leather, originally in white. It had an external rubber sole, a strengthened toe and five leather straps on the sides. In 1999 the brothers set up a clothing line. K-Swiss also produces two other shoe lines: laceless Royal Elastics, and National Geographic, under license from the National Geographic Society.
French brand of prêt-à-porter, created in 1983 by Philippe de Hesdin, Jean-Louis Tepper and Jacques Nataf, three Parisian packaging dealers. The idea was to offer girls an economic and sexy line of ready-to-wear clothes: two basic seasonal Collections, updated each month with spur-of-the-moment new creations. It proved successful: there are now 400 Kookaï stores in Europe.
Nick (1958). English photographer. After his studies in England, he worked from 1986 to 1990 for Yamamoto, under the artistic direction of Marc Ascoli. Then on numerous magazines belonging to the Condé Nast group. Knight also contributes to the newspapers Libération, The Independent, and the Sunday Times. He photographed the girls for the Pirelli Calendar 2004.
Maison of ready-to-wear fashion established in Berlin in 1990 by Jane Garber in partnership with other young designers who, later, were to abandon the venture. Before German reunification, Jane worked in East Germany designing costumes for the theater and some music bands. In 1995 she presented the first Kostumhaus Collection in Paris and Düsseldorf, a brand that in 1999 became fully hers. Her training as a textile designer induced her to give great importance to fabrics during the design process. She often combines traditional and high-tech materials. Her palette is based on very few colors.