Morton (1906-1983). Irish tailor. He worked in Dublin and is remembered for having revolutionized the “English classic” by simply adding small details such as matching pale colors with tweed, or soft silken fabrics and jerseys to dry wool.
Silk factory with a plant in Fino Mornasco (Como). This company created by Arturo Dolara received unanimous praise from people in the trade at the Esposizione Voltiana which took place in Como in 1899, especially for its diapered fabric for clothing. In 1920, Arturo’s son Aldo joined the firm, as did Giuseppe Rostagno. After the death of the founder, various industrialists and professionals also joined. In 1946, Dolara merged with FISAC.
This brand, same as Levi’s, is a division of Levi Strauss & Co. Launched in the U.S. in 1986, it arrived in Europe in 1993, making its début in Sweden. It arrived in Italy only in 1995. It manufactures more than 2,500 types of casual trousers, both for men and women. In 1998, Dockers Europe surpassed its quota of 4 million trousers sold, with Italy providing about 25% of the European total. There were 740 multi-brand points-of-sale franchises for the men’s line and 290 for the women’s, launched in Autumn 1998. In Europe, there are 16 Dockers stores, with the most recent the single-brand store opened in Florence in May 1999, the first in Italy.
After the big success of its no-iron trousers, Dockers launches another novelty, the Dockers S-Fit, innovative trousers manufactured with the Clean Fabric System, which produces an exclusive no-stain and water-repellant fabric. A long association with DuPont results in a special treatment called Teflon that makes the fabric resistant to the most difficult stains such as wine and coffee. The fabric is no-crease, easy-to-wash, dries quickly, and doesn’t need ironing. The styling of the new trousers is also absolutely innovative. The front pockets are closed by zippers and the back pockets have a safety fastening. A side pocket, made specifically for a cell phone, is made of linen with metallic mesh in order to reduce electromagnetic radiation. There is also a model in cotton, Cramerton, in the traditional khaki color used by the U.S. Army since the 1930s.
Present at the 64th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, Dockers celebrates the tenth anniversary of its arrival in Europe. Dockers Italy is third in importance in Europe after Spain and Portugal, with 650 point-of-sale franchises.
Among the offerings for Spring-Summer 2004, Dockers launches the Made in History line, which recalls the clothing of the masons who worked on the Empire State Building. There are trousers and jackets in pale colors such as yellow and ecru, manufactured with natural fabrics and triple seams.
French brand of children’s clothing. It is fresh, joyful, and inexpensive, both for day and night, for school and leisure time. In May 2000, a large unisex space for children between 3 months and 14 years was opened in Milan on Largo Cairoli at the corner of via Dante. Another store is in Rescaldina, and it also sells strollers, baby carriages, and accessories. In 2002, the company opened a shoe boutique in France, with new openings (18 stores in 6 years) expected in Belgium and Luxembourg thanks to an agreement with the Belgian company Motek. The first new openings were in Antwerp and Brussels in early 2003. DPAM has 176 points-of-sale all over the world, with 52 of them outside France, consisting of 24 single-brand shops (Spain, Italy, Portugal, Switzerland, Japan) and 28 distribution shops. For 2002, turnover was down 9.1%, to €140.545 million, due to disappointing sales in the fourth quarter. The net profit, on the other hand, was steady. In France the decrease in sales was 10%, while the Italian subsidiary had an increase of 23.6%.
Men’s laced shoe. It is named after Lord Derby, the English aristocrat who launched it. The tongue is a single piece with the upper, exactly the opposite of the Oxford model. It exists in a smooth model, which is quite elegant, and a more casual one that is decorated at the toe and heel. Different from the Oxford, there is also a model without laces that is fastened at the side with a buckle.
Pseudonym of Etienne Adrien (1885-1961). French illustrator. With the Liberty or Art Nouveau style fading away, the art world devastated by Cubism, and the decorative arts flying the flag of Art Deco, his style went against the trend, characterized by a conscious classicism. From deep in the provinces, he moved to Paris in 1900. He was one of the names associated with the Gazette du Bon-Ton, Fémina, Nos Elegances, and Harper’s Bazaar.
Madeleine (1920-1994). Scholar of fashion. She was the first curator of the Musée de la Mode et du Costume at the Louvre. A specialist in the history of costume, especially of the 19th and 20th centuries, she edited a series of small books about the grammar of style for the publishing house Flammarion.
French manufacturer of stockings. Since 1989 it has been part of Sara Lee, the giant American manufacturer of tights. It was established in 1953 by Bernard Gilberstein, aimed at a middle-to-high market segment. There are three reasons for the success it has had since the 1970s, and for the volume of sales which allowed it to expand production to include men’s and women’s underwear: first, a partnership with Publicis, the advertising agency belonging to Marcel Blustein, whose TV campaigns were always successful; second, the jingle by Lalo Schiffrin which became so popular it was whistled in the street; and third, the fashion for tights, helped especially by the arrival of the mini-skirt.
A pioneering boutique in that part of Milan which would become the “fashion quadrilateral”: first, in 1963, in Montenapoleone and, in 1966, in via della Spiga, where Gulp and Cose were already the rage. Diana Masera (1909) opened it, and since 1957 she had been working successfully under the same name in Forte dei Marmi, offering almost exclusively the creations of Emilio Pucci. The boutique on via della Spiga was a sort of bridgehead to Italy for Dorothée Bis, at the time an emerging griffe for young people. It closed in 1986. In 1970, a Diana Bis boutique was opened in Porto Rotondo, Sardinia and it is still open today.
French silk company, with headquarters in Lyon. It is a historic name in the silk industry and was established in 1920 by Franµois Ducharne, who combined in one person a sense of both entrepreneurship and creativity. Both Picasso and Braque designed fabrics for the firm. Ducharne silks helped nourish Schiaparelli’s talent. The company closed down in the early 1960s.