French fashion and advertising consultancy. Mafia (Maïmé Arnodin Fayolle International Associés) was founded in 1968. In 1985 it was sold to the BDDP advertising group. The founders, Maïmé Arnodin and Denise Fayolle launched Nomad (Nouvelle Organisation Maïmé And Denise) two years later.
Pseudonym and label of the black American milliner. It was in the middle of his career that his creations were at their most varied, from models of sober elegance, to those of a more audacious and innovative form. His creations are included in the collections of the Black Fashion Museum in New York, and the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
International competition for young designers. It had a modest launch in 1993, with only twelve participants, based on an idea of the Fairs Association of Gorizia, in collaboration with the National Chamber of Italian Fashion and the Italian Textile Association. Today, Mittelmoda selects young designers and students from 367 different fashion schools across 56 countries. Each year the participants have to present their collections and portfolios by May. The 36 winning designers receive financial awards and the opportunity of work experience with some of the most important Italian companies. The competition aims to promote freedom of creativity among the young and to give them the chance to enter the reality and needs of the fashion system.
&Quad;2002, September. Mittelmoda celebrated its tenth anniversary and changed its name to The Fashion Award. To mark the anniversary it organized three exhibitions and a workshop, in addition to the usual runway shows. Mittelmoda: 10 Years, Other Fashion, and Lace in Costume and Fashion were held contemporaneously in a single large hall in the fair building in Gorizia. The first show, 10 Years, comprised a gallery of large-scale photographs of previous winners. The second, Other Fashion, was an atelier of sculptures wearing original and creative garments: for example, the Spanish designer Suzy Gomez’s metallic dress, the dress made of plastic bottles by Enrica Borghi, the chessboard with T-“shirt and ties by Laura Ambrosi, the clothes-climbing furniture by the American David Byrne, the photos by Luisa Raffaelli and Misha Klien, Fritz Kok’s mermaids, and erotic figures by Roy Stuart. The third exhibition, Lace in Costume and Fashion, marked a return to the past with Chantilly lace and clothing from the late nineteenth century from the collection of Marianne Stang. The workshop was based on the theme of the relationship between fashion and ethno-cultural roots. The winner of Mittelmoda in 2002 was a young Australian, Ramon Martin, from the University of Technology in Sydney. His collection was chosen from a group of 36 designers by a jury led by Beppe Modenese. The second prize went to Dimitri Ouvarov from the Moscow State Textile University.
Toby (1968). English photographer, published in Vogue France and The Face with fashion shoots for Yamamoto, Nike, Hermès, and Cartier.
Style of shoe. Over time, it is the model that has enjoyed the most abiding success. It was first used by the Native Indians of North America as an extremely flexible leather sole that was raised at the sides, laterally binding the foot. It was, and still is, the most comfortable shoe to wear. The shape is made with stitching around the heel, the front section is made with a piece of leather called a vamp, or insert. The moccasin is constructed in the opposite way to other shoes, in which the upper covers the toes, instep and heel, then comes down to the sole, where it is fixed. There is also an assembled model, or “fake moccasin,” made in the normal way with upper attached to the insole. The tubular model, on the other hand, can be made without an outer sole, without an inner sole, or without both: the sole is made of an upper and lining joined together, or perhaps by an upper alone. This type is for summer wear, without socks, and for this reason is sometimes referred to as “Capri style.” The history of this type of footwear is also linked to its popularity with students: during the 1920s, it was almost the emblem of American university students. During the 1960s, Italian youths only wore college blue and burgundy on their feet, often with a penny inserted in the toe cap. In contrast, moccasins in beaten leather, with a more robust feel, were popular with yuppies during the 1980s. Long established moccasin brands include Quintè of Milan, and Gucci, who launched the gilt version. In the 1990s, Tod’s revived the driving moccasin, with rubber caps on the sole.
Giuseppe, known as Pinotto (1931). A manager in the Italian clothing industry and one of the contributors to the international fortunes of the sector. While he was still a student he undertook work experience at Rovelli-Marelli, the textiles factory owned by one of his uncles. In 1953, he joined De Angeli-Frua, which was at the time a colossus in the production of printed textiles for womenswear, in order to work at Tessinoni, which produced very successful hand-printed fabrics. His clients included Emilio Pucci. In 1964 he was the financial director of Hitman, a clothing firm that was part of the Cerruti group, which was under construction at the time. For eight years he collaborated with Giorgio Armani, who was, along with Nino Cerruti, head of style and who left Hitman in 1972 to set up on his own. In 1968 Marelli became director-general of the company and, in 1970, CEO. Three years later he became vice-president of Holding Cerruti 1881, while continuing to run Hitman. In practice, he oversaw all the finished products of the Cerruti 1881 brand, greatly increasing the turnover of the firm (650 employees) and bringing their exports up to 65% of the total production. In 1996, he left the job. Soon afterwards he joined Veneto Abbigliamento and since then has been working on the relaunch of Basile.
A salon founded in Paris in 1974 by two hairdressers, Frédéric and Guillaume, who came from the world of fashion magazines. Today, Mod’s Hair runs a hairstyling agency for photo shoots and has a chain of 250 franchises around the world.
Casual and sporting clothes brand, of seafaring origins. After twenty years as a sailor, Nicolò Gavino set up base in Genoa. There, in 1887, he opened a notions store. Two generations later it was a thriving commercial success. In 1965, the firm presented its first collection at the Nautical Fair in Genoa but the brand was not launched until 1972. Today, 30 employees are based at the modern headquarters at Carasco, which has an area of 8,000 square meters, and more than 750 shops across Italy distribute the different lines of Marina Yachting (classic), My Marina Yachting (for women), M Y sport (for young people) and Waterline for the beach, with towels and matching swimwear.
&Quad;2002, September. Marina Yachting celebrated its 30th anniversary at the Sardinia Cup regatta. To coincide with the anniversary, in May Le parole del mare was published, an anthology of 70 pieces, chosen and edited by Valiera Serra, a reporter on sailing events. Published by Baldini&Castoldi, it celebrated the history of the brand and its passion for the sea, sailing and sport, the focus of its research from both a stylist and technical perspective. Marina Yachting was acquired by the Fin.part Group in 1996.