Baccarat

Baccarat. In 1764 King Louis XV of France gave the Bishop of Montmorency-Laval of Metz permission to found a house that produced glass and crystal.

Baccarat. In 1764, King Louis XV of France gave the Bishop of Montmorency-Laval of Metz the permission to found a house.  The house produced glass and crystal in Baccarat, in eastern France.

Baccarat is famous for its crystal creations made especially for the home.

The brand itself managed to survive until 1993. When it launched the first line of jewelry with two collections a year. Baccarat’s creations have achieved great success thanks to the work of the Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, the greatest French artists and craftsmen.

The Baccarat collections

The collections offer both replicas of antique pieces and new elements created by young designers. These include Jean-Marie Massaud, Caroline Bouzinac and Jean Oddes.

In 2001, a line of crystal jewels embellished with semiprecious and precious stones called Les Précieux was launched. Then the following year, in 2003, the Palais Baccarat was inaugurated in Paris, a former patrician residence completely redesigned by Philippe Starck. The splendid residence, which is located in an elegant square in the 16th arrondissement, houses the boutique, the museum and one of the most exclusive restaurants in the French capital. Place of great charm is open to the public.

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Baeza, Guillermina

Asprey

Asprey. English jeweller’s shop located at a famous address, 165-169 New Bond Street, known by everyone who loves the Anglo-Saxon style.

Asprey. English jeweller’s shop located at a famous address, 165-169 New Bond Street, known not only by the people of London but by everyone who loves the Anglo-Saxon style. Its history began more than 200 years ago, making its début with a refined Collection of luxury goods, especially articles in leather and art objects. Later on it moved to silverware, porcelain serving sets, precision time pieces, and jewellery.

Its readiness to create any kind of object upon request led the firm to work with jewellery especially. In fact “It can be done” is the motto of Edward Asprey. Asprey’s special pride is its long relationship with the royal family, starting with the first patent received in 1862 from Queen Victoria, in addition to a very prestigious clientele among which number princes, maharajas, politicians, diplomats, and show business celebrities.

Asprey
The boutique in Bond Street, London.

Overseas, the brand had by 1984 already gained a rather respectable address: 725 Fifth Avenue in New York. In 1986 Asprey joined the group of sponsors for Ferrari in the Formula One racing championship, creating a Collection of accessories in gold, silver and enamel, distinguished by mythological references to Ferrari.

The jewellery shop, already taken over in 1995 by Jefri Bolkiah, brother of the Sultan of Brunei, is merged with its competitor Garrard for the sum of 100 million pounds. Asprey & Garrard was thus born.

The Asprey necklace (diamonds and pearls) worn by Lady Diana in her last public appearance, was sent to auction for charity, with a floor of $500,000.

Asprey from 2000 to toda

In July 2000 Tommy Hilfiger purchased Asprey & Garrard from Brunei Investment Group. Then in 2001 it signed an agreement with the business giant LVMH for cooperation in the jewellery market.

But in 2002 there was a “split” between the two giants of jewelry, who return to act separately. Rosa Monckton left the group as honorary president, with no operational roles.

Sciens Capital Management, of New York, and the hedge fund Plainfield Asset Management bought the London luxury brand in 2006. Following this acquisition the name was changed to Asprey International.

In 2007 Gianluca Brozzetti left his position as CEO after six years in the position. John Rigas succeeded him.

Yvonne Lynam was appointed CEO of the US division in 2013.

In 2015 Asprey became Rolex’s official retailer.

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Tiffany

Amfitheatrof, Francesca

Francesca Amfitheatrof (1968). Jewellery designer. She was born in May 1968 in Tokyo. Her father is a journalist while her mother is a publicist.

Francesca Amfitheatrof (1968). Jewellery designer. She was born in May 1968 in Tokyo. Her father is an American journalist while her mother is an Italian publicist.

Francesca lived her life with a suitcase in hand, weaving different cultural ties that have forged its creativity.

She Studied from Central Saint Martin, Chelsea Art School and The Royal College of Art the design schools. There she learned the techniques of processing the jewels that today make the world dream. Led by a good star is at the Royal College of Art that the jewel designer meet Giovanni Corvaja.

The goldsmith artist, born in Padua in 1971, thaught her and helped her to create different gold alloys. Not only, within the four mentioned school program, has Amfitheatrof confronted an entirely Italian reality. Alberto Alessi himself signed the contract with the company. Francesca Amfitheatrof collaboration begins in 2000 and over the years continued with a strong product character and incisive design. His most celebrated creation is the Amfitheatrof: a polished steel cup with pierced applications, now also proposed in Extra Ordinary Metal decoration that rediscovers Etruscan Etruria.

Francesca, despite a succession of respectable collaborations, is remembered for its fruitful collaboration with Tiffany & Co.

Amfitheatrof career

After her successful collaboration with the Italian company, she dedicated her time to first collection of silver jewelry line that was exhibited in the White Cube Gallery of London in 1993. A famous art dealer in kingdom, Jay Jopling he believed in her talent. In continuous search for a creative balance, Francesca carries out activities throughout the world and embraces different types of artistic universes. It is right to mention the exhibition “Cornucopia” by Damien Hirts al Museo Oceanographic of Monaco. Additionally the exhibition “Agony and Ecstasy”, curating twenty-three works of the contemporary art collection by Francois Pinault.

Moreover in 1995, Amfitheatrof started consulting for fashion brands designing jewelry and accessories. She worked with the following brands: Rifat Ozbek, Balenciaga, Alice Temperley, Chanel, Fendi and Marni.

Later, in 2013, she curated the solo exhibition on the Asian continent, entitled “The Sleep of Reason”, working closely with Chapman. In Italy Francesca Amfitheatrof has worked alongside the activities of maison Guccinell’eponimo museo. In Florence she is worked as Head Curator with the video art “Amore e Morte” (2011)of American artist Bill Viola, “Lo Spirito vola” by Paul Fryer and with the exhibition “Early Works” (2013) by Cindy Sherman.

Style

Her elegant, personal and inspiring aesthetic code impressed everyone in the industry.

Her projects are constantly inspired by the universe that surrounds it with no exception whatsoever on art, architecture and nature. Enhancing the structure of a jewel is the prerogative that Francesca has to emphasize in every collection. Additionally precious gemstones shine on a lively surface and forged by the designer’s extreme creative voluptuousness.

The collaboration with Tiffany

Before collaborating with Tiffany, Francesca has lent her creativity to fashion houses like Chanel, Fendi and Marni. The high-end fashion jewelry company, founded in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany and John B. Young in Manhattan, where she was appointed as the design director. Her first collection was launched in 2015 and was sealed by an advertising campaign shot by Craig Mc Dean. Moreover the following are the collections “Victoria Bows & Infinity” (2015),  “Return to love” 82016, “1837” (2017), “ Collectibles” (2017), and “Sweet Nothings” (2017). Francesca has also worked for the Haute Couture collections of the label. She developed the Tiffany Blue Book Collection, with two hundred and fifty unique pieces. The collections were titled “The Art of the Sea” (2015), “The Art of Transformation” (2016) and “The Art of the Wilde” (2017).

Amfitheatrof
Francesca Amfitheatrof x Tiffany.

Amfitheatrof and Louis Vuitton

On April 16, 2018, the jewelry designer was named creative director of the luxury jewelry segment of Louis Vuitton. “Michael Burke, President and CEO of Louis Vuitton, is pleased to welcome Francesca Amfitheatrof,” reads a note sent by the company.

“Amfiteatrof’s creative flair, experience and background will help shape the Louis Vuitton jewelry and watch categories,” concludes the comment

Amfitheatrof recently

In March 2019 Francesca Amfitheatrof launched her own line called Thief and Heist, a new drop-driven, direct-to-consumer collection

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Abloh, Virgil

Alfieri & St. John

Alfieri & St.John. Goldsmith’s firm from Valenza that was established 1977. From the beginning the firm has created jewellery.

Alfieri & St.John. Goldsmith’s firm from Valenza established in 1977. From the beginning the firm has created jewellery characterized by a marked originality of design. Additionally it showed unusual and rich in poetic touches.

Since 1999, when it joined the Damiani Group, the firm has reinforced its connection to the world of fashion. Its designs are constantly updated with an eye to making the most of their originality. And yet they maintain the tailor-made aspect of the jewellery. In fact it continues to be rigorously handmade, while aiming for a market segment that has a passion for basic shapes and originality.

Among the must-have pieces created after the restyling of the last three years are the X-shaped pendants and the Messaggio rings, which are wedding rings engraved on the inside with quotes taken from celebrated literary masterpieces.

To stress its individuality, Alfieri & St.John entrusted its advertising and communication campaign to the painter Enzo Esposito, who interpreted the jewels in an artistic way according to contemporary tastes.

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Chanel, Gabrielle

BULGARI

Bulgari is an Italian jewelry and luxury goods brand that produces jewelry, watches, fragrances, accessories, and hotels.

Index

  1. The Origin: Sotirio Bulgari
  2. Bulgari Style
  3. Third to Fourth Generation
  4. Bulgari Hotels
  5. #Raise Your Hand
  6. LVMH Acquires Bulgari
  7. Current Situation

The Origin: Sotirio Bulgari

Bulgari is a dynasty of Italian jewelers that started with Sotirio Bulgari, a native of Epirus, Greece. He began his career as a jeweller in his home village Paramythia. He arrived in Italy in 1879 and brought the goldsmith tradition of ancient Greece. In 1885, he opened a shop in Rome, on via Sistina, offering pieces made with both ancient and modern goldsmith techniques. The business developed and, 20 years later, the firm found a new headquarters in via Condotti.

Starting in the mid 1900s, the production took on precise and original physical characteristics. This is the result of the creative commitment and entrepreneurial intuition of Sotirio’s two sons, Costantino and Giorgio, who had joined the company’s management in the early 1930s. Costantino, interested especially in collecting, started to gather artistic objects. Such as icons, carved jades, to deepen his study of the ancient goldsmith’s art. He wrote the book Argentieri, Gemmari e Orafi (Silversmiths, Jewelers and Goldsmiths), a fundamental work for knowledge of the Italian goldsmith tradition. Giorgio was put in charge of the commercial management of the company.

Bulgari Style

Bulgari
Bulgari Snake.

At the end of the 1940s BVLGARI introduced the Serpenti bracelet-watches, with coils in Tubogas or in gold mesh. This style is still popular today. In the meantime, the jeweler’s boutique became a favorite meeting place of the aristocracy, of rich American tourists traveling to Rome, and of the cinema’s international jet set. Introducing the cabochon cut and the use of colored stones set in yellow gold, Bulgari launched a new style of great inventive freedom. The emblem of tradition was instead carried by the ancient Greek and Roman coins that were offered as the central pendants in necklaces and link bracelets shaped like a gas pipe, or as decorative motifs in rings, brooches, earrings, and furnishings in silver. The impeccable manufacturing, refinement in composition, and unmistakable designs turned these jewels into real cult-objects.

Third to Fourth Generation

In the 1960s, the company was joined by Costantino’s daughters, Anna and Marina, and also by Giorgio’s sons, Gianni, Paolo and Nicola. After Giorgio’s death in 1966, his son Gianni led the company as co-chief executive with his cousin Marina. These last two are the present heads of the company, together with their nephew Francesco Trapani, who is general director. In the 1970s, the company began to expand on the international market, opening subsidiaries in New York, Paris, Geneva, and Monte Carlo.

In 1985, Gianni resigned as CEO and in 1987, he left the family business after selling his one-third stake in the company to his brothers Nicola and Paolo. The brothers were named Chairman and Vice-Chairman of the company and nephew Francesco Trapani was named CEO. Trapani’s goal to diversify the company started in the early 1990s.

Bulgari
Ads campaign from 1987.

The 1980’s and 1990’s are marked by an era of opulence. Bulgari’s perfect adaptation to the contemporary world is reflected once more in its masterpieces. This years witnessed the birth the desired exemplary Parentesi; first line of modular jewellery, Bulgari-Bulgari; shapes inspired by the Roman Colosseum, and Quadrato watches. More examples of Bulgari’s adaptation to the world’s current opulence was the experimentation of new materials.

The year 1991 saw the début of the Naturalia Collection, which was inspired by the animal and vegetable world. For the occasion, the film Anima Mundi was produced, with the proceeds given to the World Wildlife Fund. The 1990s saw the creation of men’s and women’s accessories, small leather goods, foulards, ties, and eye glasses.

Bulgari
Gisele Bündchen wearing Lvcea Necklace

In 1996 Bulgari started an experiment with new materials, in the jewellery line called Chandra, in which porcelain was used together with gold. In 2001 the firm launched Lucea, a collection that was innovative in style and characterized by a fluid weaving together of gold and precious stones. The advertising for it featured the model Gisele Bündchen.

Bulgari Hotels

Bulgari
Bulgari Hotel in Milan.

The year 2002 saw the birth of Bulgari Hotel & Resorts, a joint venture between Bulgari and Luxury Group, the luxury hotel division of Marriott International. They envisioned a series of luxury hotels. The first one was in the center of Milan, in via privata Fratelli Gabba, near Piazza Scala and the Brera. In Autumn 2003, the company launched the women’s fragrance Omnia, the eighth creation in the perfume line for men and women under the Bulgari brand.

Bulgari
Bulgari Resort Bali

In 2009 two new collections, Bvlgari New, and B.zero 1 were presented. Bvlgari New was characterized by a gold circle engraved with the iconic double logo. The materials used were 18-carat yellow or white gold, either alone or combined with onyx, mother-of-pearl, or with bright pavé diamonds. The new B.zero 1 is fresh and feminine, thanks to its colored gems. Peridots, blue topazes, garnets, citrines and amethysts with vivid colors. The collection has a particular transparency combined with thin chains and pendants that give life and movement to each piece. In addition, the iconic watches of the Italian fashion house are renewed with three new dials in white, pink and brown mother of pearl. What makes the piece special is the diamonds combined with the strap, proposed in three different colors.

Officially in 2004, Bulgari’s first hotel opened at Via Privata Fratelli Gabba in Milano, besides the prestigious La Scala theatre, in a tastefully renovated 18th-century Milanese palazzo. Later, in 2005 the brands hotels international expansion began establishing a new hotel in Bali, followed by the ones opened in London and Shanghai in 2012 and 2015 respectively. A further expansion is scheduled for 2017 in Dubai.

#Raise Your Hand

Bulgari
Bulgari x Save the Children.

Bulgari proudly celebrates its philanthropic, global partnership with Save the Children by launching the new campaign #RAISE YOUR HAND. In 2009 BVLGARI has partnered with Save the Children. The company helps fund the nonprofit’s activities with proceeds from the Save the Children jewellery collection, custom-designed jewels, inspired by the iconic B.zero1 line. Bulgari has raised over $50 million in the past seven years for this charity project.  And the purpose of  #RAISE YOUR HAND 2016 is to emphasize the importance of children’s health.

LVMH Acquires Bulgari

During the first quarter of 2011, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton acquired the majority of Bulgari S.p.A. shareholdings. In 2014 in pursue of conserving the Bulgari’s heritage, a “unique palace” named DOMVS, in reference to the brand’s major source of inspiration and actual home, was opened to the public that serves as an exhibition and art gallery.

Bulgari
Bulgari DOMVS

Situated on the second floor of the brand’s boutique at Via Condotti, DOMVS provides a unique storytelling of Bulgari’s stylistic evolution through iconic pieces such as the ones collected for the prestigious Heritage Collection. This temple also displays images and belongings of iconic divas that once embrace the brand such as Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren, and Anna Edberg. In early 2015, Bulgari started a long-term collaboration with one of most celebrated design school Central Saint Martins for supporting young fashion designers through design competitions.

Current Situation

In 2016 Le Gemme Men, a new collection of male luxury fragrances, was born, inspired by the tradition and excellence values of Haute Joaillerie. At the same year in July, Bulgari launched a new high jewelry collection Festa, the spectacular collection has over a hundred jewelers and watches inspired by Italian art de vivre. In particular, the Palio necklace and bracelet are more than exceptional, and stand for the famous horse race in Siena.

Bulgari
Festa Collection.

In 2017, Rome’s National Museum of 21st Century Arts and Bulgari join together and started a new project called MAXXI Bulgari Prize to support young contemporary artist. An international jury will spotlight and choose features young talents and present their work at National Museum of 21st Century Arts. Today, the name Bulgari expresses in just one word the concept of classic jewelry modeled according to the new dictates of contemporary taste.

From conquering the growing French artistic power in the 20’s, accommodating to resources droughts due to wars in the 40’s, to seducing new markets with creative and innovative designs and brand expansions, Bulgari has earned the right to be called the top of the luxury jewelry industry.

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