Hartnell

Norman (1901-1979). Fashion designer of English style and designer for the Royal family. He was still a student at Cambridge when he had already designed clothes for the magazine Footlights. In 1923 he opened an atelier in Burton Street with his sister and became the preferred tailor of the British aristocracy. In 1935 he designed the bridal dress of the Duchess of Gloucester and for the nobles invited to the wedding, including the Queen. In 1947 he designed the bridal dress for Elizabeth and in 1953 he designed the dress worn at her coronation. He was later entrusted with the creation of army and police uniforms, and he became interested in costume design. His style was rather conservative, in deference to the rigid protocol imposed by the Royal family. Lengths were under the knee for the daytime and hats were not to have overly large brims so as not to hide the face. In 1977 he was appointed a knighthood. After his death, the fashion house was initially guided by Manny Silverman and, later, by Marc Bohan. However, times were no longer suitable to the style of Hartnell and the company closed down in 1992.