French high fashion house for prêt-à-porter, created by Jacques, Lenoir, and Gabrielle Aghion in 1952. Since that time, and especially during the 1960s and 1970s, it has shown itself to be a practice field and breeding ground for some of the most famous names in design. The evolution of Chloé is due to the entrepreneurial energy of the founders in their response to the new demand for a prêt-à-porter that would not cause regret over the passing of haute couture. It involved the contributions of different designers, sometimes working on their own, sometimes as a team. These included Gérard Pipart, Graziella Fontana, Christiane Bailly, and Carlos Rodriguez, up until the decisive meeting with Lagerfeld, who was sole designer from 1966 to 1983. His daring, ironic, sometimes exasperated but always surprising style, and the attention paid to accessories as seen in the in-house creation of buttons, jewellery, and hats, and the unusual tone of the presentations, all determined the international success of Chloé and of its young but sophisticated taste with its aggressive femininity. Near the end of the 1990s, Stella McCartney, the daughter of Paul, of Beatles fame, became the griffe‘s designer.
The French griffe celebrates 50 years at the Café de Flore in Paris where it presented its first Collection in 1956. For the occasion, all the designers who contributed to its success have been invited. Lagerfeld left the maison in 1983 to go to Chanel. Later, Gaby Aghion sold to Dunhill, now Group Richemont. Stella McCartney went to Gucci, and the new creative director is Phoebe Philo. The prêt-à-porter Collection for Autumn-Winter 2003-2004 presented in Paris is characterized by a young and self-assured line influenced at the same time by vintage, street, and sensuality. Short dresses (or long sweaters) with many frills are worn with leotards in strong colors.