MONCLER

Learn more about Moncler, the famous Italian apparel manufacturer and lifestyle brand founded in 1952 by René Ramillon most known for its down jackets and sportswear. Moncler took its name from the abbreviation of Monestier-de-Clermont, an Alpine town near Grenoble, France.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. Moncler & Lionel Terray
  3. The down jacket
  4. Remo Ruffini
  5. Collaboration & Advertising
  6. Current Situation

The Origin

Moncler Heritage 1954
Heritage 1954

Moncler is a French company of sportswear. The brand was founded in 1952 in Monestier de Clermont, in the French region of Isère. It was a small factory, producing equipment for mountain activities. It is depositary of dozens of patents.

The first down jackets, symbol of the brand, were born in 1954. They were intended to be worn over the workers suits. The brand name comes form the abbreviation of the location, Monestier de Clermont.

Moncler & Lionel Terray

Moncler Lionel Terray Wearing Moncler
Lionel Terray Wearing Moncler

The first to notice the down jackets and understand their potential is Lionel Terray. This world famous alpinist becomes a key figure in the history of the company. It is indeed under his pressure and advice, that the company develops ‘Moncler pour Lionel Terray’. It is the first specialized line for mountaineering at high altitude. The brand is also linked to some great expeditions like the first Italian ascent to the K2 of 1954. Even more, the French one to the conquest of Makalu in 1955. And also the one to conquer Alaska in 1964.

The French National Ski Team Wearing Moncler 1966
The French National Ski Team Wearing Moncler 1966

In 1968 the brand becomes the official supplier of the French national team of alpine skiing during the Winter Olympic Games held in GrenobleInnovation and research lead to the creation of lighter, more aerodynamic and performing garments. They are also suitable for sports competitions. These jackets that are the precursors of contemporary down jackets.

The down jacket

In the’ 80s and ’90s Moncler down jacket makes its entrance into the city. It turn into a cult object, with its stitching and its “painted” effect. During this period also comes the symbol of the brand, the famous cock. In the eighties, the Moncler down jackets become the symbol of Paninari, the only youth culture ever produced in Italy. A symbol of fashion at the time.

In those same years, Moncler starts collaborating with the stylist Chantal Thomass. She replaces the zippers with buttons, adds fur collars and borders. She also adds embroidery and precious materials, such as silk and sable. Since then, the brand has focused on design and excellent collaborations, even coming to experience incursions into the world of couture.

For Moncler’s 50th anniversary, in 2002, the book “Now and … Moncler” was published. 1952-2002. Edited by Baldini Castoldi Dalai. It shows photos, drawings and graphics depicting the history of the brand, from 1954 and the first duvet.

Remo Ruffini

Moncler Down Duvet Jacket
Down Duvet Jacket

In 2003 Remo Ruffini, Chairman and CEO, took over the company. Ruffini designed the strategy of the global down jacket. He gave shape to a range of unexpected aesthetic, functional, technological and high quality achievements. Always in a harmonious balance between mountain and city. The Moncler jacket becomes iconic, going beyond trends, widening the boundaries of the brand up to include all the seasons of the year.

Collaboration & Advertising

Moncler Fall/Winter 16/17 Campaign Photographed by Annie Leibovitz
Moncler Fall/Winter 2016/2017 Campaign. Photographed by Annie Leibovitz

Since 2004, the brand has began a strategy of identity consolidation. It started several collaborations with iconic fashion brands, including Junya Watanabe and Comme des Garçons.

Moncler’s advertising campaigns also pursue uniqueness as a distinctive sign. During the relaunch phase with the arrival of Remo Ruffini, the adv campaigns centered on the product and the origins to transfer its heritage. Subsequently, the campaigns focused on the brand. They were photographed by famous photographers such as Bruce Weber and Annie Leibovitz. They were able to embody the brand DNA and highlight the values ​​of the encounter between photographic art and a nature that transforms in culture.

Since December 2013, Moncler has been listed on the Milan Stock Market. The company produces directly and distributes Moncler clothing and accessories through direct boutiques. And also through the most exclusive Department Stores and international multi-brand stores.

The presence in the most important multi-brand and luxury department stores and the selective location are clear expressions of the values of the Brand. Together with a distinctive store concept that is always consistent with the brand’s DNA. Moncler has always placed in the customer the cornerstone of every strategic decision. This was further strengthened in 2016 with the launch of an important project of Retail Excellence.

Current Situation

Moncler Collaboration with Thom Browne Capsule Collection USA Flag 2016
Moncler Collaboration with Thom Browne Capsule Collection USA Flag 2016

At the end of 2017, the Group has a turnover of Euro 1,193.7 million. It marks a double-digit growth of all the main economic indicators. Another important milestone in the success of Moncler.

On the 20th of February 2018, Moncler presents a new creative chapter: a vision of the future. It exceeds the temporality of the season and establishes a daily dialogue with the consumer. Moncler Genius. Eight exceptional minds, working together (but individually), have interpreted the Brand. Everyone focuses on a single project that, interacting with others, defines the various aspects of Moncler’s identity.

NAOMI CAMPBELL

Naomi Campbell is an English model who was recruited at the age of 15. Her career quickly began and she appeared on British and French Vogue by 18.

Index

  1. The Beginning: Synchro Model agency
  2. The Golden Years
    1. Vogue
    2. Supermodel
  3. Her Struggles
  4. Fashion Cafe
  5. Various Activities
  6. Current Situation

The Beginning: Synchro Model Agency

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Naomi Campbell Young Naomi
Young Naomi Posing for the Camera

Naomi Campbell was born in 1970  in Streatham, London. She has chestnut hair and brown eyes, but she wears colored contact lenses, blue and green. She studied at Dunraven School and the London Academy for Performing Arts, Italia Conti Academy stage school and appeared in music videos for Bob Marley. Then, she was discovered at the age of 15 while walking in Covent Garden, by Beth Boldt of the model agency Synchro.

After being discovered she was signed on by the agency and her career quickly took off. She traveled to Paris regularly and meet Azzedine Alaïa, who she became close with and meet many celebrities through him.

The Golden Years

Vogue

Naomi Campbell French Vogue Cover 1988
French Vogue Cover 1988

In December 1987, she appeared on the cover of British Vogue, as that publication’s first black cover girl since 1966. Then, in August 1988 at the age of 18, she was the first black woman to appear on the cover of Vogue France. A year later, she appeared on the cover of the September issue of American Vogue, which was said to be the most sold.

Supermodel

Naomi Campbell Supermodels Shot by Herb Ritts
Supermodels Shot by Herb Ritts

Through the 80s and 90s she gained the status of a top model and was considered one of the six models of her generation declared supermodels by the fashion industry. She walked the catwalk for designers: Gianni Versace, Azzedine Alaïa, Ralph Lauren, BlueMarine, Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Isaac Mizrahi. Also, she has modeled for famous photographers such as Peter Lindbergh, Herb Ritts and Bruce Weber.

In April 1992, she appeared on the hundredth-anniversary cover of American Vogue, shot by Patrick Demarchelier, with several other top models. And a year later in 1993 She famously fell on the catwalk in Vivienne Westwood‘s foot-high platform shoes, which were later displayed at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Her Struggles

Naomi Campbell Vogue 100 Anniversary 1990
? Naomi Campbell Vogue 100 Anniversary 1990

Through 1998 to 2009 there were several cases after being accused 11 different times over the years of acting out against employees, associates and other individuals. She was convicted in Toronto in 1998 of assaulting her assistant with a mobile phone. By 2006, several other employees had come forward with claims of abuse. She has pled guilty at least four times and has attended anger management classes, completed community service ?and paid fines. Along with this, she was banned from British Airways after an incident mid-air.

Elite Model Management, which had represented Campbell since 1987, fired her in September 1993, on the grounds that “no amount of money or prestige could further justify the abuse” to staff and clients. Elite founder John Casablancas described her as “manipulative, scheming, rude and impossible.” She was known for her whimsical temper and jet set love affairs including the boxer Mike Tyson, the dancer Cortes, the entrepreneur Flavio Briatore, and Usher.

Fashion Cafe

Elle McPherson, Claudia Schiffer, and Naomi Cambell Fashion Cafe Launch
Elle McPherson, Claudia Schiffer, and Naomi Cambell Fashion Cafe Launch

Naomi decided to diversify her activities, and, with her colleagues Elle McPherson and Christy Turlington, started the Fashion Café. The business venture was not successful and the directors were arrested for fraud, bankruptcy and money laundering in 1998. Then, she co-wrote the book Swan, recorded a couple of songs and created the album Babywoman. Also, she has participated in the videos of famous singers like Michael Jackson, presented her own fragrance, and had a doll and a wax statue at Madame Tussaud’s reproducing her features dedicated to her. So far, the thing she does best remains on the runways.

For over twenty years, Naomi Campbell has worn clothes that designers put on her, but also interpreted them, giving them life. In 2007, she walked the catwalk for Dior‘s 60th-anniversary fashion show at Versailles.

Various Activities

In 2013 she launched her reality series, The Face. The series is about a group of aspiring models competing against each other. Campbell is the producer and a coach for the show.  

In 2014, at the age of 44, Naomi is ready to go permanently down from the catwalk and to get behind the scenes of fashion, and opened a charity shop in London’s Westfield shopping center, called Fashion For Relief. The shop also sells fashion clothes and accessories to celebrities and friends as Kate Moss.

Naomi Campbell Fashion For Relief Show 2015
Fashion For Relief Show 2015

Fashion For Relief has presented shows in New York, London, Cannes, Moscow, Mumbai  and Dar es Salaam, and has raised millions of dollars for various causes. Campbell has remained an activist who has fought for the welfare of children in Africa alongside Nelson Mandela since 1997.

Between the end of 2015 and the beginning of 2016 a wide range of products signed by the model is launched for TCC, a leading company in loyalty programs. The products, including jewelry, textile articles for the house, bags and luggage have been used by retail chains, franchise or not, to reward customers in loyalty campaigns.

Current Situation

Naomi Campbell Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show a Tribute to Gianni Versace
Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show a Tribute to Gianni Versace

In 2017 Campbell launches silver jewelry and luxury gift items, becoming an ambassador of a brand that is launching its first store in Northern Ireland.

Milan Spring Summer 2018 Fashion Week’s epic moment turns out to be Versace’s runway show, where the original supermodels: Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni, and Helena Christensen,  return back to the runway in golden dress, to pay tribute to the late designer Gianni Versace. The reunion moment is really memorable, audience welcomed the top five models with applause and standing ovation.

By 2018 Naomi Campbell has graces the cover of over 500 magazines, walked the runway for countless luxury brands, and has continued her charity work in South Africa and around the world.  

HERMÈS

Historical French fashion house specialized in leather, Hermès is one of the most prestigious brands in the luxury business. Owned by the fifth generation descendants, today is renowned for its scarves, ties and legendary handbags now became real status symbols. The company, founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermès, was born as a horse harnesses and housing workshop. From here the famous logo of the maison: the “Duc Attelé” representing a jockey and coach towed by a horse in as a tribute to the equestrian tradition. After 40 years, the second generation of the family moved the company to the current location of Faubourg Saint Honoré but it was Thierry’s grandchild, Emile Maurice, who, in the Twenties, directed the transformation to a more appropriate reality for a fashion house. At first, they created small deerskin item but then a jewelry line inspired by the equestrian world was launched in 1927; in 1929he created the first feminine collection designed by Lola Prusac. The Thirties were the years of garments that would become icons for the maison and also for the fashion environment like the belt inspired by dog’s harnesses or the handbag created after those used for horses’ saddles. We’re talking about the famous Kelly, a model dedicated to Princes Grace of Monaco that greatly contributed to its success when it appeared on every tabloid in the second postwar period; the handbag immediately became an icon item and its echo has resounded for decades, even today. Another revolutionary idea was launched in 1949: the Hermeselle dress, in printed cotton, which anticipated the prêt-à-porter concept in fashion, a sort of ready made dress that could be tailor-made. In 1951, after the death of Emile, the management of the company was assigned to his sons-in-law Robert Dumas and Jean Guerrand. the time was ripe to boost the company’s incomes, following the great market boom of the Sixties and the strong interest of the medias and the first perfume and silk scarves were created; this is also the period in which the “Duc Attelé” logo was created and orange was chooses as a distinctive color. The next decade was characterized by the griffe’s economical and territorial expansion with the opening of new stores in Europe, United States and Japan. From 1976 under the direction of jean Louis Dumas Hermès, Robert’s son, the company became a holding and started acquisition policies mainly in the textile sector. He tried to “innovate keeping an eye on the tradition”, secure of the historical value of the brand and of the reputation built in over one century of activity. Advertisements appeared with young models wearing precious scarves in an attempt to rejuvenate the brand and make it more desirable to a wider group of consumers; Hermès’ products are more and more present in stores. Jeal Louis Dumas is also the man behind another famous handbag, the Birkin, an icon for the fashionistas and a true status symbol of the present time. The Birkin has a waiting list of over two years and a cost that could even be above ten thousand euros, its name comes from the singer Jane Birkin for whom Dumas designed a handbag in 1984. The legend tells that the two were sitting next to one another during a flight and that Dumas listened to her complaints about the possibility of finding a bag for her needs. This is how this particular model was created and is, just like the Kelly, absolutely custom-made and available only after a long waiting list. Throughout the years, several designers were called to lead the creative department to help style renovation still respecting this brand’s historical tradition, names like Catherine de Karolyi, Nicole de Versian (helped by a young Lacroix), Eric Bergère, Bernard Sanz, Bally, Myrène de Prémoville, Giudicelli and Audibet. In the Nineties, the team was guided by the Belgian designer Martin Margiela that will stay in charge for the collections until 2003 when he leaves his place to Jean Paul Gaultier. The collaboration between Hermès and “l’enfant terrible”, strengthened also by the acquisition of part of the company shares of the designer by the brand, will last till 2010, when Jean Louis Dumas died. Hoping to make more commercial his collections and to make the brand more contemporary, the new owner Patrick Thomas, nominated Christophe Lemaire (who until then had proved his abilities as head designer for Lacoste) to lead the creative department. Today, the holding Hermès International guides a group with over 26 affiliates; it counts 250 stores around the world and finalizes its sales through about 40 highly selected stores. The family still owns the majority of the company shares, followed by the giant of luxury LVHM owning 20%.