Les Copains

Italian clothing brand, synonymous with fashion for the young. Created in the 1950s, it took its name from the title of a successful French radio program entitled Salut les Copains. This was the start of the career of Mario Bandiera, who was otherwise fated to work in the antique business, like his father. He immediately captured the industry’s attention with a beautiful knitwear collection. Knitwear became a style associated with freedom, and was to be at the center of the company’s industrial development, which, in the 1960s, was based on what can be defined as Les Copains’ historical creation: the mini-pull. Sufficiently tight to excite a young imagination, it was tested by the young girls working on Gianni Boncompagni’s TV team. The company achieved one success after another, and was even praised by The New York Times, when in 1973 it praised the company’s new women’s prêt-à-porter line. There was no lack of imagination, or humor. In the 1980s, sweaters and T-“shirts that ridiculed politicians became very popular. Winterwear was characterized by very tight striped T-“shirts worn under wool jackets. Les Copains’ styles for young girls consisted of tops, low-waist pants, tiny pullovers, tunics and blouses, made in constantly new technologically invented materials. Everything is of course sewn together using quality thread, the one currently used is made of cashmere. The company has acquired its renown as a result of two forward-looking steps in the Mario Bandiera’s development strategy: the acquisition of 50% of the Maglificio di Marsciano (a company that manufactures cashmere knitwear), and the auction acquisition of the manufacturer Associata di Ponte Felcino 1862, which specializes in cashmere yarns and threads. The group places great importance on the continual updating of machinery. Exports total about 300,000 pieces a year, representing about 30% of overall global production. Les Copains also designs accessories, glasses, tiles, and perfumes.
Les Copains wanted to open a small building in Ginza to give a new image, a total look, to Japanese consumers. Since 2000, the Japanese turnover has risen, partly due to the opening of new sales points. There are 15, 4 of which are own-brand shops, while the remaining 11 are shop-in-shop.
License agreements signed with Drops for the rainwear collection of Fall-Winter 2002-2003 and with Unionseta to launch a men’s and women’s beachwear collection. Unionseta has a turnover of 8.5 million euros.
The BVM Group, controlled by the Bandiera family, is headed by Les Copains. This month it acquired the majority shareholding in Lothar’s. In 2001 BVM’s turnover amounted to 140 million euros. In addition to Les Copains, BVM produces and distributes the brands Antonio Marras, Stefano Guerriero, and Victor Bellaish.
The group’s most recent line is called 86.62.88. Its contemporary identity is immediately revealed by the label’s name. The numbers refer the body measurements of the new generation of young women. The brand has extended its presence in the world through 25 own-brand shops and 99 corners. Particular attention is paid to the evolution of Far Eastern markets, Arabian countries and the USA.
A joint venture was set up with La Commerciale, a company owned by Gaetano Navarra and Marcello Casazza, which produces and distributes the Gaetano Navarra label. Gaetano Navarra’s turnover is to be expanded using Les Copains’ Japanese and American distribution channels. Production was to continue in La Commerciale’s plants in Bologna. The result of this joint venture was to be Gaetano Navarra’s men’s collection.
Les Copains signed an agreement with the Redwall Group, which would produce and distribute bags branded Les Copains and Blue Les Copains.
Rodolfo Zengarini joined the maison as a partner for the production and distribution of Les Copains shoes.
Antonio Berardi took over the creative direction of the brand Trend Les Copains. Besides following the top collection, the designer also creates the Les Copains line.