Heim

Jacques (1899-1967). French designer. He was the couturier of Mme De Gaulle. His father Isidore was of Polish origin and in 1898 he opened a small fur shop in a Parisian apartment with his wife Jeanne. In the day it was a workshop and during the night it became their house. Isidore’s skills and courage were awarded. The first rich and important clients arrived, headed by Victoria Eugenia, the Queen of Spain, and the wife of the composer, Claude Debussy. Inbetween the two wars, he invented a ‘poor’ fur manufactured with rabbit skins. Coco Chanel, a loyal client, was crazy about it. The firm’s success was aided by Jacques’ entry into the business, who had higher ambitions. In 1925 Jacques created coats and clothing with fabrics designed by Sonia Delaunay for the Exposition of Decorative Arts. In 1930 he gave his name to the atelier, dedicated to haute couture, with a clothing section also for young girls. He became famous by designing a series of swimming costumes and beach pajamas. In the second post-war period he anticipated the bikini with a two-piece model called Atomo. In 1934 the balance sheets allowed the business to expand with the opening of branch offices on the CÂte d’Azur, in Rio de Janeiro, and in London. After the German occupation of France, Heim attempted to escape the racial prosecutions by travelling to England through Spain and Portugal. However he was arrested in Spain and imprisoned in a refugee camp. He returned to Paris in 1945 and continued his business by creating perfumes (the most renowned is Shandoah). In 1950 he established the company, Marie Carine, which was a precursor of ready-to-wear. In 1958 he was appointed President of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. In 1966 he created a men’s line. After his death, the business was survived by his son Philippe.
1969. The business closed down two years after Heim’s death.