Coccoli
Ugo Coccoli (1916-1996). Men’s tailor and designer. After a youthful apprenticeship with the Roman firm Faré, at the age of 24 he moved to Turin where he opened a custom-made tailor’s workshop (1948). Due to his perfect cutting, accuracy in execution, his sober but open-to-modernity taste, he would win and keep the most demanding clientele of Turin. Aware of the expansion of a new mass of consumers and of the growing success of industrial manufacturing, Coccoli was from the beginning part of the group of tailors (Litrico, Piattelli, Brioni, Blasi, and Caraceni) that wanted to establish the Made in Italy movement, in opposition to the prevailing French and English styles. They promoted it at the festival of men’s fashion in San Remo and, above all, at the presentations sponsored by the Accademia dei Sartori in Rome in the late 1960s. Expanding outside Italy to Germany, he had great success due to the contrast in his style between classic cutting and modern colors and fabrics: bright blue jackets, smoking jackets with a white jacket and scarlet trousers. During the 1970s Coccoli’s style was enriched by a casual accent that could be found in half-belted jackets which often resembled a safari jacket. He was famous for his double-face coats, his light-weight smoking jackets, and his black evening cloak, lined with brightly-colored silk.”