Theatrical Wardrobe

Until the 1930s, the wardrobe considered necessary for a prose actor of a leading theatrical company in Italy was generally represented by six suits for Summer, winter and half-seasons; formal wear (tails, redingote, dinner jacket); three or four pants and casual jackets (white flannel, gray flannel, white cloth, and khaki cloth); three dressing gowns (one in camelhair, two in silk); six scarves, wool or silk; at least 24 ties for the day, and 12 for the evening; walking shoes (black, yellow, light brown, two-tone, patent leather with small gray spats); sports shoes; beach shoes; riding, hunting and marsh boots; overshoes; a hunting suit (optional); walking hats for summer and winter; black or gray or beige bowler hat for the races; straw hats (panama or chip hats for Tuscan-style gentlemen); a yachting beret; and an opera hat. In addition, five or six coats in blue, brown-gray, or black; two overcoats for the mid-seasons; three raincoats, six sports sweaters, with and without sleeves; two umbrellas; four walking sticks; and twelve pairs of gloves. For the on-stage wardrobe, the assortment varied according to the actor’s possibilities and the credit he had with his shirt manufacturer. It was necessary, though, to have three pairs of cuff links, shirtfront buttons made from precious metals or beads, enamels, or diamonds. Also necessary was a good set of pipes and cigarette holders, stage wallets made from Russian leather, crocodile or black satin, a black ribbon to be worn on a hat or the arm in case of mourning, handkerchiefs of very refined batiste, scarves, white silk or patterned cache-col, an evening astrakhan fur, a young bear fur with a mink or otter fur collar, a hunting fur with a fox collar, an evening coat with a white satin mantle for very mundane comedies, a dustcoat, a beret and driving glasses. A large part of the cost involved was paid through installments, which was deducted by the management from the actor’s wages. The wardrobe of very elegant actors, like Luigi Cimara and Lucio Ridenti, was five times greater than this minimum list, to which had to be added a golden cigarette case and a platinum watch to be used when wearing tails.