Tailcoat (Tails)

Men’s evening and ceremonial suit. In French it is known as a queue de morue (swallow tail) and there is a slightly different version called a queue de pie (magpie). The jacket is always black, with a silk collar and lapels, short and open in the front to show the white, low-necked piquet waistcoat. The shirt has a starched shirtfront and collar, double cuffs, and is worn with a white bowtie. The matching pants have satin stripes down the sides of the legs. The outfit is often worn by orchestra conductors during performances. Its origin dates back to the late 1700s when it was still part of the military costume. It was Lord Brummel that, in the early 1800s, made it into a dandyish garment worn in everyday life. Towards the middle of the 20^th century, its function changed and it is now used only as a ceremonial suit. In 1840, Mode et Costume wrote: “The tailcoat, a symbol of modern civilization, is the uniform which a man of culture must wear in society and during ceremonies. It’s seen wherever life and pleasure are taken seriously, it’s worn by beggars, godfathers, men in mourning, ball-goers, the ardent admirer of an actress, and by the bored man drinking his evening cup of tea. It’s the external manifestation of a mystery and, though fashion can influence its form, it remains unchanged.” From Vestiti che usciamo, by Luigi Settembrini and Chiara Boni: “If you want to learn how to wear a tailcoat, watch any of Fred Astaire’s old movies. His elegance has never been matched.” Like the tuxedo, the tailcoat has frequently returned to fashion in a female version since the 1920s, reinterpreted according to the tailor’s or designer’s fantasy.