Scianna

Ferdinando (1943). Italian photographer. He was studying literature and philosophy at the University of Palermo at the time of his decisive meeting in 1963 with the writer Leonardo Sciascia, with whom he struck up a long and deep friendship. It was Sciascia who wrote the long introductory essay to Feste religiose di Sicilia (Religious Festivals in Sicily) in 1965, the book which won him the Nadar Prize with which the young Scianna was then able to enter the photography world. Even when he was little, he used to take photographs of people in his town, but it was not until many years later, in 2002, that he gathered these images together (with portraits of Jorge Luis Borges, Alberto Sordi, Maurizio Calvesi, Alberto Lattuada, Alfonso Gatto, and Henri Cartier-Bresson, all taken when they were visiting Sicily) in a book that accompanied an exhibition Quelli di Bagheria. Feeling encouraged by Feste religiose di Sicilia, he moved to Milan. In 1967, he was taken on at L’Europeo as a photo-reporter, then as a special correspondent, and, from 1974, as the magazine’s Paris correspondent. He stayed in Paris for 10 years, deepening his friendship with Henri Cartier-Bresson, who introduced him to Magnum where he became an associate member in 1987 and then a permanent member two years later. He continued his reportage work, publishing various books of which the most important were Les Siciliens and La villa dei mostri (The Villa of Monsters) in 1977, Kami (1988) — a documentary about the reality of life in a Bolivian village — and the monograph Le forme del Caos (Forms of Chaos). He got into fashion photography in 1987, at the suggestion of Dolce & Gabbana, for whom he did a few advertising campaigns, the first of which involved going behind the scenes of a runway show. He has been published in Grazia, Stern, Marie Claire, Vogue and Moda. In 1989 he produced Maglia (Knitwear), a volume about the Italian knitwear industry with texts by Guido Vergani.His approach mixes fashion photography with elements of reportage, in a manner reminiscent of the early work of his friend Frank Horvath. Scianna, however, knows how to introduce new elements, by juxtaposing distant realities, like the ancient ways of his native Sicily, with the fashion world that is regenerating and branding the place. Fashion uses the everyday people of Sicily for its backdrops, setting up shoots in the shade of barbers’ shops, in bars where bead curtains keep out the heat, in markets and the streets. These are all elements, highlighted by his usual decisive, refined black-and-white photographs, that are found in his Marpessa, un racconto (Marpessa, a Tale, 1993) and above all in Altrove, reportage di moda (Elsewhere, Fashion Reportage, 1995). Between 1989 and 1999, his monographs on Leonardo Sciascia, Ignazio Buttitta, and Jorge Luis Borges were edited and published by Sciardelli. In 2001, he gathered together his writings published in various French and Italian titles in a volume called Obiettivo ambiguo (Ambiguous Lens).