Brandt
Paul Emile (1883-1952). Jeweler of Swiss origin (La Chaux-de-Fonds), but French by adoption. He was a sensitive interpreter of the artistic trends of his time. After studying in Paris under the guidance of Chaplain and Allard, in the early years of the 20th century he was a very original creator of Art Nouveau style jewellery, Immediately after World War I he favored Art Deco, offering rigorous interpretations of accentuated geometric forms. Among the jeweler-artists who distinguished themselves during the Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 1926, he had his greatest success in the 1930s. A master of matching unusual materials, he adopted the coquille d’oeuf, lacquer and silver. He favored black enamel, platinum, onyx, diamonds, and pearls for his jewellery and for his precious watches with their exacting bi-color scheme organized with a skillful mix of rectangles, triangles, and circles in a pure cubist style.