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TRUSSARDI

Trussardi
Trussardi adv

Index

  1. The Origins 
  2. Nicola Trussardi
  3. The Greyhound
  4. The First Fashion Show
  5. Trussardi and the Theater
  6. Brand Expansion
  7. Beatrice Trussardi
  8. Foundation Nicola Trussardi
  9. Palazzo Trussardi Alla Scala
  10. Group Values
  11. Trussardi in the World
  12. The Recent Year’s

The Origins

Founded by Dante Trussardi in 1911 in Bergamo, Italy. The company  started as a high quality gloves business targeting elegant men and women. It grew and became an official provider for the English Royal Family. The brand stood for discreet sophistication, experimentation and innovation. Iconic elements such as high quality raw materials and revolutionary leatherworking techniques were born. These iconic elements still exist in the brand DNA today.

Nicola Trussardi

At the end of ’60s, during the custom revolution which was upsetting the world, Dante’s grandson takes the brand’s reins: Nicola Trussardi transforms the company in an industrial group. When he understood the glove couldn’t have a future, he branches out his productions and, in 1973, he enters clothing and luxury accessories branches. Nicola studies leather, processing techniques, markets and  new trends in Italian and worldwide taste; his aim is to create a lifestyle brand, which could concern every aspect of life, always aspiring to excellence.

Nicola Trussardi
Nicola Trussardi

Heir of an entirely Italian craftsmanship, Nicola Trussardi projects, produce and launches on the market suitcases, bags, home and office accessories and blazers whose cuts are always new. Trussardi goods increasingly succeeds in Italy and in the world as absolute quality icons. In the ’70s the brand inaugurates his first Milan store (in 1976, in Via Sant’Andrea – it’s still the brand flagship store) and the Group expands in every European and American markets.

The Greyhound

In 1973 Nicola became the first designer to adopt a logo to identify all products. He chose the Greyhound to symbolize modernity, agility, and energy: this logo revolutionised the international fashion system, leaving an indelible sign in those years imaginary and representing refinement and elegance, the cautious care of details, the incomparable quality of materials.

The First Fashion Show

In the ’80s, thanks to the Greyhound success, the company debuted in the clothing, launching his first menswear and womenswear collections. The brand made the general public know him, thanks to his open fashion shows. Nicola, expert in marketing, immediately faces the media world with striking operations, setting his fashion shows in Milan original locations: Teatro alla Scala, Piazza del Duomo, Pinacoteca di Brera, Stazione Centrale, Borsa, Ippodromo, Palatrussardi. Meanwhile he collaborates with the most important Italian companies (from Alitalia to Garelli, from Augusta to Alfa Romeo) in order to redefine the Made in Italy.

Dizionario della Moda Mame: Trussardi. Interno in pelle di una BMW.
Leather inside of a BMW series 5 GT from Trussardi.

He surrounded himself with intellectuals and artists, who gave their contributions to the griffe: from the painter Renato Guttuso, from whose drawings he derived a sunflower print, to directors and costume designers invited to collaborate on the staging of the runway presentations. The businessman and his wife Maria Luise propose a prêt-à-porter with contemporary and dynamic shapes, preferring new leather crafting techniques and modern and precious materials. But Nicola doesn’t stop at fashion: he is among the first to understand the unstoppable value of the brand: he designs bicycles, tiles, perfumes, cars, airplanes, helicopters, house linens.

Trussardi and Theater

During the years Trussardi manages to harmoniously mix fashion and theater, custom and costumes.

He collaborates with the Teatro Piccolo in Milan and with his director Giorgio Strehler, dressing Macbeth on stage at Verona Arena and setting up a Trussardi Action (his casual label) parade at Castello Sforzesco with the direction of Dario Argento. Nicola interprets himself in Robert Altman’s Prêt-à-porter. In 1986 he inaugurates the Palatrussardi, a new venue for concerts and large scale entertainment events, that housed Frank Sinatra‘s last concert in Italy.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Trussardi Frank Sinatra at Palatrussardi
Poster of Frank Sinatra’s concert at Palatrussardi, 1986.

Brand Expansion

Trussardi is a lifestyle brand for all every moment in the day: the Group launches the Jeans, Home, Baby, Junior, Eyewear and Perfumes lines, becoming synonymous with elegance and absolute quality. In the ’90s, the company continued its international expansion path, focusing on new emerging markets in Eastern Europe, Asia and the Middle East. New boutiques are opened in Hong Kong (1992), Moscow (1993), Taiwan and Taipei (1994). In those years it is also the image to spread the style around the world thanks to the collaboration with the most interesting voices of international photography such as Richard Avedon, Mario Testino, Michel Comte, and Steven Klein.

In 1996 Trussardi’s openness to general public, which is a central value of the brand, made the Group inaugurate Palazzo Trussardi alla Scala, the first flagship building in the fashion system to host not only a showroom and a boutique, but also a café, a bookshop and a restaurant. His six floors in Piazza della Scala symbolize the Greyhound’s excellence in every field of business. In 1998 Nicola founded a school for future fashion workers, photographers and communicators. He dies at 57 because of a car accident, on Aprile 1999.

The Trussardi Group keeps the familiar business values, which has concerned contemporary rhythms and living ways. After the death of their father, children Beatrice and Francesco leaded the brand, introducing a younger fashion. In particular Beatrice from 2002 is CEO and President of the Group.

Beatrice Trussardi

The following year, in 2003, Francesco died at the age of 29 in a car crash, by a tragic fate, just as his father had. Beatrice has to lead the company on his own. She is determined to continue his brother’s work, so in 2004 she presents one of the most beautiful fashion shows in the griffe history. Matteo Felli, already General Manager, is the new CEO.

In 2006 Eric Wright, an American designer, who worked closely alongside Karl Lagerfeld, while designing for Fendi womenswear, was named head designer by Beatrice, aiming at strengthening the menswear. By reversing the current marketing plan forgotten colors and patterns are brought back and the rounded lines of inside pocket objects is rediscovered. Wright was head designer for 2 years.

In 2008, under Beatrice’s leadership, the Group launches Trussardi 1911, a new line designed by Milan Vukmirovic, the maison’s creative director. Vukmirovic, who founded and designed for Colette in Paris, former creative director at Jil Sander, is a polyhedric personality and modernize the brand. Keeping the typical elegance of the Group, Vukmirovic brings it into more contemporary languages. In addition to this line, they were born Tru Trussardi, in 2005, and TJ, dedicated to city life needs, the former looking to the world of work and the latter to leisure time.

Nicola Trussardi Foundation

Beatrice also strengthened Trussardi’s commitment to contemporary culture through the launch of the Fondazione Nicola Trussardi, a nomadic museum built to bring art into people’s lives. The foundation restores neglected houses in Milan and gives them to the city to be used as space for exhibitions and events. The company is also part of the world of high-class cuisine with Trussardi Alla Scala Restaurant, one of the best outposts of quality gastronomy in Italy that has recently obtained the prestigious recognition of the two Michelin stars.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Restaurant Trussardi Alla Scala
Restaurant Trussardi Alla Scala

Palazzo Trussardi Alla Scala

In 2009 Trussardi flagship building, Palazzo Trussardi Alla Scala underwent structural renovations and has become a heart of Italian culture. In fact the ground floor is today an open and versatile structure and hosts, from 2008, the first Trussardi 1911 concept store, a space dedicated to the most interesting image based journalism’s voices and the Café Trussardi. The last one is an experimentation who mixes high food service and today’s chaotic rhythms. The plate glass dehors, designed by Carlo Ratti Associati, is the base of the first Italian green installation by Patrick Blanc.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Palazzo Trussardi Alla Scala
Palazzo Trussardi Alla Scala

Group Values

Engaged in innovation, sustainability and environment safeguard, Trussardi is the history and the future of Made in Italy excellence in fashion, design, art and cuisine. The brand expresses a new lifestyle, based on excellence: for almost a hundred years the brand is an expression of the solidity and creativity of a company, of commitment and family values.

Dizionario della Moda Mame: Trussardi. Campionario di pelli.
Collection of leather samples.

Trussardi is a company of people working for people. From Italian craftsmen who realize by hand accessories and clothing to the realization of the most complex international projects, the Group is at the service of men, aiming at make his life more elegant, more passionate, more precious and more exciting.

In fashion the company developed, in a century of experience, a unique ability to look for new ways and techniques for treating hides and fabrics. The roots of the brand include the Italian industrial history and its ability to work on the skin is unmatched throughout the world; the gloves laboratory opened by Dante Trussardi in 1911 is a historic example of the dedication and ambitions of the company. The creativity of the family, which has crossed, reinvented and renewed, the last century of our history, expresses an imaginary made of measured elegance, attention to detail, sobriety and charm.

In fashion, design, art and cuisine, every time the brand manages to combine the culture of its history with the emotion, lightness, irony, and visions of contemporary. Thanks to the strength of the tradition that has built over time, the brand is able to offer fascinating surprises, rapid innovations, and small daily revolutions.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Trussardi Blue Leather Gloves
Trussardi Blue Leather Gloves.

Trussardi in the world

Trussardi is an industrial group that produces and distributes worldwide. Through a differentiation between flagship stores, boutiques, franchise stores, corners, licenses and large retailers, their products are present in every significant market for apparel, accessories, perfumes, furnishing, and home accessories.

The Group’s exclusive distribution network comprises around 440 outlets around the world: 7 Trussardi 1911 boutiques, over 300 Tru Trussardi boutiques and corners in department stores, 17 Trussardi Home stores and more than 110 retail outlets and stores in 23 countries in Europe, Asia and the Middle East, including the first TJ (Trussardi Jeans) shop opened at Gum, in Moscow.

The Group is also present in the most important multibrands in the world including Barneys, New York; Jeffrey’s, New York; The Webster, Miami; Ron Hermann, Los Angeles; Harrods, London; Joseph, London; Aizel, Moscow; Colette, Paris; Printemps, Paris; Mientus, Berlin; Quartier 206, Berlin; Abseits, Stuttgart; Lakis Gavalas, Athens; Galy, Ibiza; The Outpost, Barcelona; Chapeau, Valencia; White Gallery, Rome; Boon the shop, Seoul; United Arrows, Tokyo; Restir, Tokyo; Designworks, Tokyo; Isetan, Tokyo; Estnation, Tokyo; Eight Million, Tokyo; Joyce, Hong Kong.

Recent Years

In 2011 the brand is 100 years old. The Trussardi 1911 line becomes Trussardi, while the relationship with Milan Vukmirovic ended. New designer head is the Turkish Umit Benan Sahin, who collaborated with Marc Jacobs, Cacharel and Sophie Theallet. Sahin debuted with his first collection at the Milan Fashion Week SS 2012. The next year Gaia Trussardi, who has worked in the company since he was 23, is appointed Creative Director.

The brand expresses its need for continuous evolution and to strengthen brand identity. In March 2016, Beatrice decided to dedicate herself only to the Foundation and gave Tomaso Trussardi, current CEO, her 25% stake in the company. The company announced a 5-year plan to reposition the brand in accessible luxury. Along with major changes, the line Tru Trussardi is being discontinued, while Trussardi and Trussardi Jeans remain. Gaia plans to position the main Trussardi line around “Elegantly Cool” and the Trussardi Jeans will remain a streetwear look.

Today, Trussardi has introduced a contemporary new accessory called the Lovy bag, representing true Italian craftsmanship, made of the finest materials. The brand ambassador Michelle Hunziker represents the ironic and elegant elements of the brand. She is confident, complimented with a bubbly personality. Michelle is the ambassador for the new bag, appearing in all campaigns since 2016.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Trussardi Michelle Brand Ambassador for Lovy Bag
Michelle Hunziker, Brand Ambassador for the Lovy Bag

The share reorganization

In December 2018 Trussardi and QuattroR stock fund start negotiation. After the operation, the stock fund could produce a 50 million euros amount of capital, taking over the 70% of the company.

In next February the operation is concluded: QuattroR acquired Trussardi and Tomaso Trussardi became President of the Board of Directors. The aim is to relaunch the company in 5 years, thanks to the stock fund economic support.

In 2020 Maela Mandelli left her position as Group CEO and was replaced by Giuseppe Pinto, as interim CEO. In the same year, in October, he is replaced by Sebastian Suhl, ex Managing Market Global at Valentino.

He also worked in LVMH: after a decade in the Prada Group, he was CEO at Givenchy from 2012 to 2014 and then CEO at Marc Jacobs, in New York, until 2017.

On 25th May 2021 the company unexpectedly appoints, as new Creative Directors, Serhat Işık and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, founders of the Berliner brand GmbH. They arrived after Gaia Trussardi left her task in 2018 and after a three years internal direction.

In March 2023 the company, due to a long-standing debt aggravated by many factors (mainly the COVID-19 pandemic, the outburst of the Ukrainian war and the energetic crisis), needed to open an exchange process at Milan’s Court: this fact interested many. Furthermore the CEO and the entire board of directors resigned and, a few days later, also the Creative Directors left the fashion house.