Basile

Basile. Italian clothing company. Some of the greatest names of the Made in Italy fashion movement worked here, like Albini and Versace.

Basile. Italian clothing company. Some of the greatest names of the Made in Italy fashion movement worked here. Among them Albini, Tarlazzi, Soprani, and Versace. The company was established as a tailor’s shop by Remo Basile in 1951. Then in the 1970s Remo’s son Gianfranco joined the business and transformed it into a manufacturing company focused on a refined total look that maintained the firm’s tradition of excellent tailoring. Moreover, the brand was the first Italian brand to industrially produce sartorial prêt-à-porter, for both men and women.

Supported by this strong image, in the middle of that same decade, the company became part of the FTM Group, made up of Aldo Ferrante, Gianni Tositti and Gigi Monti. The objective of the group was to produce and distribute various promising lines of prêt-à-porter, especially Italian ones.

Then after a short period of difficulty, Basile’s success was consolidated at the end of the 1980s thanks to a partnership with the Japanese company Mitsui and Kimbun. In fact this opened the door to the Japanese market for the Italian firm.

Today the owner of the Basile brand is Reality of Milan. It controls the production of ties, scarves, hosiery, bags, watches and accessories. Gigi Monti is the stylist coordinator.

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Barzini, Benedetta

Barrett, Slim

Barrett, Slim (1960). Irish jewellery designer, born in County Galway. He studied painting at the Regional Technical College in Galway.

Barrett, Slim (1960). Irish jewellery designer, born in County Galway. He studied painting at the Regional Technical College in Galway. In 1982 he moved to London where he began to work as a self-taught designer. He is very proud of this, he feels free from any technical or traditional restraints. Then the following year he presented his first collection. He has a faithful clientele that is a bit trendy and somewhat high society.

Barrett relaunched the fashion for tiaras with precious stones. He has designed jewellery collections for Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel, Versace, Montana, Ungaro, Galliano and Katharine Hammett. He works with his wife Jules de Bairead in a former match factory near Islington, a trendy area in north London. Barrett is also the designer of the small crown with 231 diamonds made for the wedding of Victoria Adams, one of the Spice Girls, to the soccer player David Beckham. Furthermore he won the De Beers Diamond International Award. In April the tiara goes to auction for the benefit of the Red Cross. The crown, made of 231 diamonds, has an estimated value of 120,000.

Barrett
Victoria and David Beckham on their wedding day.

Moreover, Barrett is listed in the Guinness Book of World Records for a gold tiara. It is a one-of-a-kind piece manufactured for an exhibit at Wartski in London celebrating 100 years of designs for tiaras.

The creativity of the Irish designer enters the temple of British jewellery, Asprey & Garrard in Old Bond Street, together with the work of 29 other colleagues.
Also the Victoria and Albert Museum in London and the Ulster Museum in Belfast put some of Barrett’s works on permanent display.

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Barnes, Emma

Backhaus, Maria Vittoria

Backhaus Maria Vittoria (1942). Italian photographer. She works in Milan. She has worked with Armani, Versace, Zegna, Tod’s and many others.

Backhaus Maria Vittoria (1942). Italian photographer. She works in Milan and is considered one of the best for taking still life photos of accessories, jewels, objects, adn the kitchen. She studied set design at the Accademia di Brera and began her career as a reporter for the weekly magazine Tempo in the second half of the 1960s. Later she worked in fashion, collaborating especially with Vogue Italia and becoming a close friend of Walter Albini. After arriving at the monthly Casa Vogue, under the direction of Isa Tutino Vercelloni, she began to work with still life, quickly demonstrating her talent, taste, and skill at working with lights. She favors large-format photography.

Backhaus
A young Maria Vittoria Backhaus with her camera.

During her career, among many others, she worked for Giorgio Armani, Braccialini, Cartier, Casadei, Della Valle, Dolce & Gabbana, Gianfranco Ferré, Salvatore Ferragamo, La Rinascente, Moncler, Prada, Sambonet, Tod’s, Trussardi, Versace and Ermenegildo Zegna .

She is the niece of Arnaldo Mussolini and the daughter of Vito.  He was the last editor-in-chief of Popolo d’Italia. She married Giorgio Backhaus, the translator of Max Horkheimer and Theodor Adorno, philosophers of the Frankfurt School.

Her work has. also been published on Amica, Io Donna, Elle, Vogue and Wallpaper.

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Abbe, James

VERSACE

Gianni Versace S.p.A. is an Italian luxury fashion company founded by Gianni Versace, one of the greatest Italian fashion designers, in 1978.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. The Beginning of Versace
  3. Gianni’s Style
  4. Collaboration With The Arts
  5. Gianni Versace’s Death
  6. The Brand Re-Launched
  7. Brand Development
  8. Collaboration With H&M
  9. Current Situation

The Origin

Young Santo, Donatello and Gianni Versace
Portrait of young Santo, Donatella and Gianni Versace

Gianni Versace (1946-1997) was one of the greatest Italian designers, founder of the company of the same name, Gianni Versace SpA. Born in Reggio Calabria in 1946, Gianni Versace took his first steps in the world of fashion, helping his mother, a dressmaker, owner of a clothing store that, in addition to selling ready-made models, produced its own line. In 1972, a trip to Milan opened the doors of the industry when, called by Ezio Nicosia and Salvatore Chiodini, to collaborate in a collection for Florentine Flowers. His creations were a success and his name began to turn among the insiders, allowing him to continue working in the Lombard capital. He designed for De Parisini, Callaghan, Genny and Alma companies.

The Beginning of Versace

Versace Supermodels in the 1990s
Versace Supermodels in the 1990s

In 1976, with the help of his accountant brother Santo, he founded the company that bears his name and the first women’s collection was presented two years later, at the Palazzo della Permanente. Gianni Versace’s success was instantaneous. A style immediately applauded by the international press, enthusiastic about his clothes full of genre contaminations, paves the way for him.

Also, the brand contributed to the birth of the phenomenon of supermodels: Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, and Christy Turlington. Gianni was the first to bring out the character of the models as well as enhance their beauty. At this time, the Versace model was transformed. She is no longer a model but a role model, she has personality and embodies an ideal to be achieved, for all women.

Gianni Versace With Supermodels
Gianni Versace With Supermodels

In the meantime, his sister Donatella, Gianni’s muse and advisor, had also joined the company. Initially she took care of the public relations and brand communication, collaborating in the creation of important advertising campaigns with Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, Bruce Weber and Steven Meisel. But, above all, the most memorable shots were with the photographer Richard Avedon. He exalted the image of the fashion house in the world fashion firmament; a partnership that lasted for several seasons and which will wrote many pages of the history of communication. Subsequently, Donatella became creative director of the young Versus line.

Gianni’s Style

Versace was able to mix with ease the contemporary languages ​​of pop art with elements of Greek culture (hence the logo of the Medusa inspired by Greco-Roman iconography), alternating Renaissance and Baroque motifs with precious embroidery and psychedelic colors.

The success of the maison conquered the whole world, even the United States, where the ultra modern and extravagant style was increasingly appreciated. All the Eighties and the beginning of the Nineties were characterized by the territorial expansion of the brand and by very successful collections that built the empire still standing.

Versace Campaign 1994 Models Nadja, Christy, Claudia, Cindy and Stephanie
Versace Campaign 1994 Models Nadja, Christy, Claudia, Cindy and Stephanie

The fashion shows presented iconic pieces from the era, including very tight and colorful fuseaux with inlays, dresses in meshes of metal fibers, silks with geometric patterns, jackets with prints of pop culture icons. Versace risked a lot in presenting such a daring and avant-garde fashion, but made every garment and treated it as a work of art and as a result was always rewarded by both the public and the critics.

Collaboration with the Arts

Besides being a great collector, Gianni also worked in close contact with the world of theater, opera and ballet. His long collaboration with the Teatro alla Scala in Milan, which was very important, began in 1982. Gianni created the costumes of the ballet Josephlegende (by Richard Strauss, directed by Luigi Veronesi) and continued to create for many other performances by great choreographers and directors such as as Maurice Béjart, Robert Wilson, Rolant Petit, John Cox, William Forsythe and Twyla Tharp. There were many celebrities that boasted friendship with Gianni Versace, including Lady Diana, his friend and confidant, the singer Elton John, for which in 1992 he designed the cover of the album as well as all the costumes of his World Tour, and the top model Naomi Campbell.

Versace Home Collection
Versace Home Collection

Gianni was the owner of immense villas scattered around the world, and he loved to furnish them with contemporary works of art, imperial furniture and Greek-Roman statues. He was also one of the first designers to launch a line for the home: the Versace Home Collection that will include furnishings, furnishing accessories, lamps, linens, tiles, porcelains and crystals.

Gianni Versace’s Death

The tragedy occurred on July 15, 1997. Gianni Versace is murdered on the steps of Casa Casuarina, in Miami, shot. The murder shocked the whole world raising many doubts and questions about the motive of the murder, which is still unclear. The killer, Andrew Cunanan, was found dead a few days later. It was a blow to the Medusa, for his family, but also for the whole Italian fashion system that will suddenly lose one of its biggest points of reference.

After Gianni’s death, the creative direction was handed over to his sister Donatella who inherited 20% of the company’s value and was also the charismatic new face of the fashion house. 30% will go to Brother Santo, president and then CEO. The majority of the stock (50%), for a value then estimated at $700 million, will go to the beloved nephew Allegra, daughter of Donatella and Paul Beck.

The Brand Relaunched

Madonna For Versace Campaign
Madonna For Versace Campaign

The death of the founder does not open an easy time for the company which saw its business in decline right at the turn of the new millennium. At the end of 2000 the new company structure was outlined, focused on a holding company and two subsidiaries; the same year a long-term agreement was signed with Euroitalia, for perfumes and cosmetics. For several years the company had difficulty competing with the glories of the past. Multiple managers alternated at the top of the administration, until 2004, when the company found stability with Giancarlo Di Risio, who was ready to start the company reorganization by relaunching the brand.

Advertising investments were enhanced, which involved more and more celebrities from the world of cinema and music. For Donatella, a famous testimonial communicates the character of a collection more easily and quickly. Celebrities who posed for advertising campaigns worldwide includes; Madonna, Demi Moore, Christina Aguilera, Halle Berry, Patrick Dempsey.

Halle Berry For Versace Campaign
Halle Berry For Versace Campaign

There was a lot of focus on upgrading the prêt-à-porter line, enlisting the two new fashion designers Warren Davis and Kinder Aguggini, respectively for the men’s line and the younger line. Also, Versace activated ambitious expansion policies in transversal luxury projects, diversifying its business with interior design and furnishing for private jets, yachts and helicopters.

It will also strengthen its territorial presence in the Far East with strategic agreements and acquisitions for a chain of Versace Luxury Hotels; the first of these opened in 2000 on the Australian Gold Coast, followed by another in Dubai. In 2006 the Versace Theater was inaugurated in Milan, a multifunctional space that also served as a location for future fashion shows. The following year is the tenth anniversary of Gianni’s death, which is remembered with a ballet by Maurice Béjart, presented at the Scala in Milan. Also, the biography The myth Versace (Dalai editore) is also published and a special scholarship is established that bears his name, in collaboration with the European Institute of Design.

Brand Development

Since 2008, while the collections received increasing support, the group announced an important expansion plan in Asia, which took shape in the following years with the opening of several stores in China. In 2010 more than 20 single-brand stores were presented in the “Asian giant” with excellent sales performance and further expansion forecasts. From 2009, Gian Giacomo Ferraris, took over from Giancarlo Di Risio, in the role of managing director. Gian Giacomo Ferraris cut costs, revised the network of direct shops and reduced investments. At this time, the brand officially announced the passage of the license of Versus from Ittierre to the Facchini group, which took charge of the production of clothing and accessories of the young line.

Versace Versus SS15
Versace Versus SS15

In 2010 there will be an increase in revenues that exceed the ceiling of €292.3 million, up 9.1% compared to the previous year. After the international crisis, a plan to reconquer Japan was planned, which in 2009 saw the closure of its three single-brand stores. Hiroshi Saito was appointed as chief executive officer of Versace Japan and opened new stores as well as additional points of sale to reinforce the presence of the brand in the area.

Collaboration with H&M

Versace Collaboration With H&M 2011 Campaign
Versace Collaboration With H&M 2011 Campaign

In 2011 important collaborations of media impact were signed. In June the partnership between the fashion house Versace and the Swedish clothing giant H & M was announced. Starting from November, the clothing chain would sell 40 women’s and men’s 20 pieces, including several accessories, for a low-cost, strictly limited edition line, signed by Donatella. A way to bring the Versace world closer to a younger and wider audience. There was the most iconic pieces of the whole Versace, but also what the fashion house represents today in its continuous evolution. There were famous prints, lots of leather and studs because Versace is sexy and glamorous but also rock’n’roll.

Starting from July 1, 2011, Versace gave life to another collaboration with a strong media echo, announcing that it will wear the International Football Club of Milan. The agreement is signed between the fashion house and the Nerazzurri company, with the supply of official uniforms for managers, coaches, technical staff and players.

Current Situation

Naomi Campbell Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show a Tribute to Gianni Versace
Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show a Tribute to Gianni Versace

Versace in now owned and managed by the family (50% Allegra Beck Versace, 30% Santo Versace, 20% Donatella Versace). Currently, Santo Versace is president of the group’s board of directors and Donatella is creative director as well as vice president of the board of directors. The company creates, produces and distributes luxury and lifestyle products including the Haute Couture Atelier Versace range, ready-to-wear collections, accessories, jewelry, watches, eyewear, fragrances and home furnishings and the second Versus line.

Today the Gianni Versace S.p.A. It is one of the most prestigious names in the international fashion luxury scene. The brand distributes its products through a network of 110 boutiques present in the main cities of the world, plus the 123 shop in shops dedicated in the main department stores and multi-brand stores.

Donatella Versace at Spring 2018 Milan Fashion Week Collection
Donatella Versace at Men’s Spring 2018 Milan Fashion Week Collection