Altana

Altana. Italian clothing manufacturer and distributor. A leader in children’s wear it was founded in 1982 in Padernello by Marina Salamon.

Altana. Italian clothing manufacturer and distributor. A leader in children’s wear, it is in the medium to high range of the market. It was founded in 1982 in Padernello (Treviso) by Marina Salamon, the sole managing director of the company. The company is controlled by the Alchimia family, which at present also controls Doxa, the largest Italian market survey company.

Until 1991 Altana concentrated on men’s and children’s shirts for the Benetton and 012 Benetton brands. In 1991 Altana launched lines of women’s and children’s casualwear, finding success in this area. Today, the firm’s brands include Amore (3 Collections, for baby, newborn and young girls), Teddy Bear (young boys), and Pepperino (baby and junior collections). Additionally it produces on license Superga (newborn and junior), Moncler (baby and junior) and Henry Cotton’s(baby and junior).

Altana also has a women’s collection, marketed under the Amore brand. Shirts, once the company’s main offering, is now just one of several product lines together with dresses, suits, sweatshirts, knitwear, jackets, trousers and skirts. Its clothing is sold in about 800 multi-brand shops in Italy and around 300 shops abroad, with an annual production of some 700,000 pieces. In 2002 its turnover was about €19 million (85% in Italy, 15% abroad).

One interesting detail: the company’s staff, from top managers to workers, is composed entirely of women. Since 2017 it has been producing and distributing the Moschino Baby Kid Teen and Jeremy Scott Kids collections under license.

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Active Wear

Aspesi, Alberto

Aspesi Alberto is the founder of Aspesi S.p.A, informal clothing brand, known and appreciated for the use of exclusive and avant-garde fabrics.

Alberto Aspesi (1944). He is an Italian designer, born in Gallarate, Varese, in 1944. A nylon down jacket, swollen like a Michelin man, led him to success. In 1969 he founded A&D-Camiceria of Alberto Aspesi, which became Bagarre of Alberto Aspesi in 1973, and finally carried only his own name in 1990.

He has eight lines, aimed at a clothing style that is clean and severe, with a unisex cut. A collection worth mentioning is the one presented in the fashion shows for the fall-winter season of 1999. It is called LSD. Lawrence Steele designed it in collaboration with Aspesi.

Also in this collection was a quilted jacket, though in a different form (it was silver and could be turned into a sleeping bag), always the specialty of the house and the object of constant updating. No cumbersome proportions, a casual style good also in the city, and three different sizes (to the waist, a vest, and to the ankles).

The Aspesi style was always known as basic, but with the line This is a door, here is a sea it adjusted to more trendy needs. High-tech materials, creased velvets, and lots of colors, which certainly didn’t characterize the other lines. The company’s premises are in Legnano.

Important dates for Aspesi

From 1998 to 2006 Aspesi collaborated profitably with Dirk van Dooren, founder of  Studio Tomato.

Aspesi
Christy Turlington for a promotional campaign in 1991.

In September 2002 Aspesi signed an agreement with the designer Lawrence Steele. They agreed on the manufacture and marketing of the firm’s lines effective starting the following Spring-Summer season.

In April 2003 Intek, owner of 50% of Alberto Aspesi Inc., sold its shares to Grayliny, which is part of the group 2G Investment. The transfer to the new group, directed by Giuliano Tabacchi, costs €21 million, liabilities included. The remaining half of the capital stock is still owned by Aspesi.

In 2013, in collaboration with Roy Roger, historic jeans brand of the Sevenbell Group, the brands produced two collections. By doing so they employed each other’s know-how. The productions were part of the spring/summer 2014 collection.

Recent years

The Italian private equity fund Armònia SGR acquired the brand in 2017. Today Aspesi is distributed in 51 single-brand stores and in over 600 points of sale worldwide. 

The brand closed 2018 with a turnover of about 48 million euros and it foresaw to reach 80 million within five years. The brand also relies on collaboration with the Dutch company Fillig Pieces for the production of their sneakers.

Aspesi
Women’s collection, spring/summer 2019.

Fabio Gnocchi left his role as Aspesi’s CEO in 2019. Simona Clemenza replaced him. Furthermore in the same year the brand opened a new maxi store in the Milan fashion district.

Aspesi RTW Fall 2020

The collection was inspired by the personal and unconventional look of Sixties French yé-yé girls influenced the eclectic spirit. Polka-dot skirts were matched with blouses and peacoats. Printed peasant dresses were worn with lightweight parkas with a technical and classic touch. British patterns were splashed on silk for fluid skirts and shirts enriched with ruffled details. Still focused on urban, functional outerwear, the brand took a big stride forward in the evolution of a consistent ready-to-wear offering.

The timeless classic style of Aspesi – Italian tailoring

Aspesi has always specialized in the production of shirts, over the years and has established itself as one of the most important brands in the world of informal clothing and has written its history through minimal and sophisticated collections.

Aspesi
One piece of the collection.

For the F/W 2020, the brand surprised the consumers with their classic constant style through its unconventional spirit and above all the counter-current no-logo philosophy (a road that it has also recently travelled, with the design of its new store in via San Pietro All’Orto, in Milan) of minimal and sophisticated look. 

Talking about the Women collection, the silhouettes and materials are typical of the female fit, but play with a masculine look. Furthermore, the plaid motifs become intriguing in the impalpable silk blouses, while micro floral prints bloom on the blouses. The FW20 collection celebrates the brand’s heritage with upcycled printed fabrics.

For the Men collection, the velvet shirts are enriched with different blouson details, while the overshirts in tailored materials are enriched with workwear details. Military satin is used for zipped shirt-jackets, alongside slightly padded flannel shirts. Colourful stripes vibrate on the checker shirts and the bleached effects to introduce a grunge touch.

Flagship store – Tokyo

Aspesi, supported by Italia Fudsan Real Estate, opened its first flagship store in Tokyo, in the Aoyama fashion district. With several mono brand stores distributed worldwide, the Italian brand combines functionality and versatility for a unique and timeless style. Indeed the 3-level store is characterized by high windows and a minimal contemporary design, based on the same elements of the Milan’s store.

Aspesi

The signature style of Aspesi’s shirt jacket

Aspesi unveils the latest evolution of one of its signature piece, the shirt jacket, in occasion of ApritiModa. Ever since its foundation in 1969, the brand has become style statement for the stylish wardrobe staples, especially shirts and outerwear. It mainly focused on the materials and development of designs. 

The shirt jacket is a crossover piece that combines the practicality and versatility of a shirt with the characteristics of a lightweight nylon jacket. It is perfect for the mid-season or as an extra layer in the depths of winter. The product of an innovative idea that sees the garment acquire new transversal functionality, free of seasons.

Aspesi

Aspesi is committed to eco-sustainability. In fact, the shirt jacket is designed with Thermore wadding, entirely produced from recycled plastic. The signature style shirt jacket is made in soft high-density waterproof and windproof nylon taffeta. This master piece features rounded shoulders, two small front patch pockets and is fastened with coloured press-studs to match the shirt. 

Lawrence Steele, Aspesi’s new creative director 

Lawrence Steele was appointed creative director in November 2020. He will take care of all aspects related to the brand image, from the design of the men’s and women’s collections to communication. Furthermore, the designer has the task of “enriching the emotional range of Aspesi. Expanding and articulating the scope of a style that opposes volatile frivolity with a militant awareness, under the sign of Made in Italy”.

Aspesi
Lawrence Steele.

With past experience in Aspesi as head of the women’s line, Steele has also collaborated in the with numerous luxury brands. Among these MoschinoPrada and Marni during his career in the fashion industry. 

Steele believes, “The attention to detail and the study of materials are no less remarkable. But what for him is the value to be explored is the humanistic character. Putting the person at the centre, creating clothes that combine beautiful and useful and that are instruments of individual representation, not of camouflage”.

Mannequeen Town – Joions the league of inspiring 2020 fashion campaigns

The Aspesi campaign has as its only protagonist Valeria Bruni Tedeschi in an imaginary city populated with mannequins. It was the winner of the UK Fashion Film Festival and produced by NSS factory. The story follows a humorous election campaign, and result is the creation of a retro universe halfway between Lynch’s surrealism and John Waters’ humour camp. 

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Marni renewed contract with creative director Francesco risso

Moschino

Moschino is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino. Known as the enfant terrible of fashion due to its unconventional ways.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. Moschino Style
  3. Cheap & Chic
  4. Exhibition: Enfant Terrible
  5. Moschino Acquire by Ferretti Group
  6. Collections
  7. Brand Development
    1. Watches
    2. Official Partners
  8. Supporting Charity
  9. Jeremy Scott
  10. Current Situation

The Origin

Franco Moschino (1950-1994) was an iconoclastic designer who never wanted to be known as such. He arrived at the top by overturning all the rules: of good taste, style, advertising, presentations, and runway shows. The industry called Moschino the enfant terrible of Italian fashion, which means a person who behaves in an unconventional or controversial way.

Franco Moschino
Franco Moschino

Franco Moschino studied Fine Arts at the Accademia di Brera in Milan. He planned to be a painter, but his role as an illustrator for Versace in 1971 set him on the fashion road. In 1977 he was fashion designer for the historic Italian label Cadette, where he honed his skills and developed his own precise stylistic language.

Moschino Style

Moschino Stop the Fashion System Collection
Stop the Fashion System Collection

In 1983 he started his own label, with an explosive mix of paradoxes, challenges, and elegance which criticized and mocked the excesses of the fashion system and the paroxysmal society which was the image of the 1980s. The company founded by Franco Moschino, Moonshadow S.r.l., debuted with its first collection, which was ironic, surreal, ingenious, perverse, and totally represented Moschino’s style. Ironically, his style declared “stop the fashion system,” but its success was because of that system. A theorist of freedom and improvisation, he claimed not to be an inventor, but a “restaurant trying to provide those well-cooked traditional dishes which were invented by unknown cooks.”

Moschino Fall/Winter 1988 Campaign
Fall/Winter 1988 Campaign

His work did indeed revisit all the aesthetics of the century, adopting and reworking them with a hybrid injection of humor. He replaced the buttons of Chanel-style suits with windmills, and embroidered black sheath dresses with their price. He made skirts out of ties, jackets with fried eggs on the pockets, T-shirts emblazoned “Moschifo” (schifo means “disgusting” in Italian), dressed printed with the words “no dress no stress,” tops with trompe-l’oeil breasts.

Moschino Patches Blazer 1990
Patches Blazer 1990

He continued to break the rules with multiple sleeve shirts, multicolored blazers, waistcoats printed with cartoons, suits with appliquéd symbols of geese, Andalusian skirts made out of tartan, and toreador-style evening jackets. His personal style, despite being unpredictable and striking, was in fact based on classic, well-made shapes, perfectly cut and with seductive details which proved attractive to all markets.

Cheap & Chic

Moschino 1987 Fashion Show
1987 Fashion Show

The first line to be launched was Moschino Couture, and soon after came Cheap & Chic in 1980, Donna and Uomo in 1986, Moschino Jeans, lingerie, swimwear, bags, scarves, jewelry, perfume, all of which broke with fashion clichés. Publications, advertisements, and runway shows were similarly full of surprises. He would send pairs of knickers to actresses instead of invitations, he made his models go down the runway on their knees, he appeared in his own adverts in disguise, and created a fake Cardinal to promote his range of jeans.

Moschino Cheap & Chic Fragrance
Cheap & Chic Fragrance

Moschino created a scent for men with a two-headed bottle, and his women’s fragrance was provided with a drinking straw. He published Dadaist catalogues and created every kind of provocative entertainment imaginable, saying

“There is no creativity without chaos. The Moschino concept is based on complete freedom of choice. There are no rules. You wear whatever color you want, and if you still like what you were wearing last year, you can wear it this year, and next year if you want.”

All of this of course rang a strange note in a period where prêt-à-porter ruled, and labels dictated fashion.

The Exhibition: Enfant Terrible

Moschino 1999 AD Campaign
1999 AD Campaign

In 1993 the show Ten Years of Chaos was released at the Permanente di Milano. It was a journey through thousands of Moschino’s creative anomalies, culminated in an exhibition of paintings where the designer revealed to the public for the first time his original persona, that of a painter. The exhibition was held at the end of 10 years of the life and work of this enfant terrible of Italian fashion, who in this short period had left an indelible mark on the world which he so wanted to challenge, becoming himself a cult figure, and obtaining cult status for his clothes.

Moschino Acquired by Ferretti Group

Moschino passed away on September 1994 from AIDs. His staff, under the leadership of his closest collaborator, Rossella Jardini, have continued his work and succeeded in the miracle of consolidating the success of the brand. In 1995, the city of Florence granted Franco Moschino the Pitti Immagine Award. Later, in June 1999, for the first collection of Moschino Life, presented a new version of the famous “survival jacket”, designed in 1991. Later in Fall, the brand was taken over by the Ferretti Group. In the following years, many exhibitions took place, always praising Franco and his professional life. In March 2001 the brand presented a chronological collection of images of the windows designed by the charismatic “monellaccio” (rascal). Two years later, during summer, some paintings that Franco Moschino made in 1989 were exhibited for the first time in Rome.

Collections

In 2002 the brand released the memorable “On the road” men’s collection, combining vintage pieces with sports and formalwear. This was a paradoxical look, covering every possibility, and contradicted everything with which we were familiar. The collection was ingeniously invented; the disorder was delightful. The same approach was taken for the womenswear collections in the cheeky 2003-2004 fall/winter show, which saw a complete mechanic’s overall decorated with frills, and a necklace made out of a metal spring-catch.

Moschino Fall/Winter 2003 Collection
Fall/Winter 2003 Collection

Prêt-à-jouer will always be the way for Moschino. The range continues to produce the thousand anomalies which continue, as in the past, to turn some items into genuine status symbols. Irony and unbridled fantasy go hand-in-hand, particularly in the Cheap & Chic diffusion line. One style, many styles, for those with more enthusiasm than money. Fashion as the art of putting an outfit together in total freedom. Blazers with no buttons which fasten with a safety-pin, or sprinkles of sequins on patched pants.

Brand Development

Later in May the company entered a joint venture with Bluebell Far East (49.9%), Moschino (50.1%) created Moschino Far East, to aid distribution in the Far Eastern market, including Japan. Sales of €70 million were envisaged by 2006. This is an agreement that seals the long collaboration between these two businesses: Bluebell has been distributor for Moschino in the East since 1989, apart from in Japan, where distribution has been managed until now by Sanki Shoji.

Moschino 2001 SS CampaignMame Fashion Dictionary: Moschino 2001 SS Campaign
2001 Spring/Summer Campaign

Then in July, they signed a licensing contract with Sector to produce a collection of watches under the name of Moschino. The Sector Group, with 15 production partners worldwide, had 150 employees and sales of around €90 million in 2001. It was responsible for around 14% of watchmaking in Italy.

In 2002 the label celebrated its 20th birthday. The first Parisian store (with seven windows) was opened at 32 Rue de Grenelle, in the 7th arrondissement, and a shop was opened in central Moscow, in the Petrovsky Passage Mall. The Moschino brand has a distribution network of 24 dedicated stores, and 31 franchises in department stores. Shares in Moschino Spa are held 70% by Aeffe and 30% by Sportswear International, and in 2001 sales equaled €285 million.

Watches

In July 2003 they launched a store in the Rome full of the new Moschino watches, the heart-shaped “Time 4 love” and “Time 4 Peace.” Each has charms representing symbols of peace, love, a lucky horn, and the initial “M” of the late designer. “I love 4 ways” has a linked chain, inspired by old pocket watches. “I love Moschino” has a leather strap, and “My name is Moschino” a traditional metal strap.

Moschino Watches
Moschino Watches

A year later, Vincent Darré, head of creation and development of the Moschino collection from 2001 to 2004 left the label to become artistic director at Emanuel Ungaro.

Official Partners

In 2007, under the leadership of Thierry Andreatta (CEO from 2007 to 2009), Moschino opened a new boutique in New Dehli, India, where it first expanded in 2005. In May, the first headquarters in Eastern Europe was opened in Lithuania.

In 2007 important agreements were concluded with several partners. Including Scienward International Holdings Limited for the franchise and distribution in China, Allison for creating and distributing Moschino’s eyewear, Binda Group for the manufacture and marketing of watches and jewelry. In 2008 the teen and baby collections were launched too. 

The same year, in collaboration with Independent Ideas, Lapo Elkan’s communications agency, Moschino presented Love Moschino collection, a new face for the twenty-year Moschino Jeans collection. The strategy was to renew it, making it more appealing for new generations.

In March 2008, the new fragrance Hippy Fizz was launched in the market, produced and distributed by Euroitalia. Then, in September, the boutique of New York was opened. Also, in 2009 stores were opened in Dubai, Saudi Arabia and Shanghai. Then a year later in Vietnam. At this point, Moschino’s expansion now reached every corner of the world.

Moschino Spring/Summer 2010 Collection
Spring/Summer 2010 Collection

The original interest of Franco Moschino towards modernity has remained at the center of the company. In 2010, under the supervision of Rossella Jardini, in collaboration with Jo Ann Tan, Maison Moschino was inaugurated in Milan, now NH Milano Palazzo Moscova. Moschino represents a fairytale world where fashion is a means to celebrate the values and the joy of living.

Supporting Charity

Active in the social, Moschino signed numerous collaborations to help children and associations. In 2007, Moschino supported Amref by selling some of its design on Yoox. In the same year, Unicef asked the brand to make a plexi doll for fundraising for the prevention and care of children with HIV. The following year, in collaboration with the Isetan Shinjuku Department Store in Tokyo, Moschino presented a series of mini dresses from the spring/summer 2008 collection, whose proceeds were donated to the Red Cross of Tokyo to support children.

Jeremy Scott

Jeremy Scott Creative Director of Moschino
Jeremy Scott Creative Director of Moschino

In 2014 the brand started to relaunch, with the appointment of the new creative director, Jeremy Scott. Scott was born in 1974 in Missouri, USA, and studied at the Pratt Institute in New York. In 1990 he launched his own line with a fashion show in Paris. Scott’s brand has a very sophisticated pop style, using very bright colors, lettering, symbols and icons taken revisited from the eighties and nineties. The sporty style helped the designer to forge several partnerships with activewear brands as Adidas.

The company appointed Scott after Rossella Jardini, former Moschino creative director,  presented her last collection collection for the Italian fashion house during Milan Fashion Week. Jeremy Scott has been noted in recent years also for a very direct communication on social networks, where he posted accessories and extravagant clothes. Also, his friendship with international pop stars like Rihanna, Nicki Minaj and Katy Perry, who began to wear his clothes at concerts and public appearances, thus increased his fame.

Jeremy Scott With Celebrities Wearing Moschino Collection
Jeremy Scott With Celebrities Wearing Moschino Collection

In February 2014 the first collection by Jeremy Scott was presented, inspired by some American icons, including McDonald’s. Someone criticized the choice, others appreciated. Another novelty is the elimination of Cheap & Chic line and the birth of the “Boutique Moschino” line. The brand announced that the “Moschino Boutique” line targets a wider market and that prices will be about 40% lower than the main line.

Moschino Jeremy Scott 2014
Jeremy Scott Collection for Moschino 2014

The first positive results of the new course of Moschino contributed to Aeffe sales results, which acquired the brand in 1999. There were in fact revenues of €251.5 million, an increase of 0.2% compared to last year. Also, the sale of the Spring/Summer 2015 collections has increased by 15% from a year earlier. Then, in 2015 Jeremy Scott wins the “Womenswear Designer of the Year”.

At the same year, Moschino and Barbie teamed up for a partnership, produced a Moschino Barbie doll and 8 pieces Moschino ready-to-wear collection. Then, during 2016 spring summer fashion week, Moschino launched a new capsule collection called “Clothed For Construction.” This capsule collection is also designed by Jeremy Scott and only available on online.

Moschino Barbie Spring/Summer 2015 Collection
Barbie Spring/Summer 2015 Collection

Current Situation

In July 2017 Moschino launched a limited makeup collection by collaborating with Sephora. This collaboration bring out the best combination of beauty products and luxe accessories. The brand’s signature playfulness together with Sephora’s high quality beauty products served both bold Moschino women and everyone else.

Moschino Limited Makeup Collection
Moschino Limited Makeup Collection