Rochas

Marcel Rochas, the designer of the Canadian jacket and the history of the brand

Tamara de Lempicka in Rochas
Tamara de Lempicka in Rochas

Marcel Rochas (1902-1955)French tailor and designer. He debuted in 1925, with an atelier in Paris in Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Over the years, the designer designed the Bali dress inspired by the costume of Balinese dancers, the Canadian jacket, kimono sleeves and the guêpière. The style, young and modern, is often anticipatory. Marcel lived an intense life, both sentimentally – married  to Hélène, a beautiful muse, in his third marriage – and economically, with the creation of numerous companies and the launch of successful perfumes: Avenue Matignon, Mouche, Moustache.

Her death led to a moment of crisis for the maison and the closure of the haute couture department. Hélène took over the perfume sector – Madame Rochas, Eau de Rochas were born in these years – but the transformation process became unstoppable. In 1987, a new owner arrived, the German Wella group. In 1989, the widow Rochas left the company.

A new management brought Byzance perfume to the market and, in 1990, a women’s ready-to-wear line, with the contribution of Irish designer Peter O’Brian. The brand also inaugurated a men’s fashion line. The fragrance Rochas Man Daniela Candio was created. Launch of Aquawoman, created by Michel Almeiras (Robertel). Olivier They accepted Wella’s offer to relaunch the brand’s image from the autumn-winter 2003-2004 collection.

Rochas, ups and downs and changes at the top

The history of the brand was interrupted in 2006 when the doors of its laboratory were closed and production ceased. The Procter & Gramble group rescued the brand from its ruins, but it was with the luxury holding company Interparfums that it began to shine again.

Over the years, there have been a number of changes of chair: Olivier. Marco Zanini and also the Italian Alessandro Dell’Acqua, who brings a classic aesthetic to the brand, reasonably comparable to the bon-ton allure of Rochas. The designer marks a continuity in the company with the ready-to-wear line that unfortunately ceases in 2019 and after six years since the contract was signed. He will continue to present his N°21 in Milan.

Charles de Vilmorin at Rochas

In February 2021, the company announced its new creative director, a young 24-year-old, known only for having participated in an edition of GucciFest, organised by the Florentine company and the idea of the creative director, Alessandro Michele.

His name is Charles de Vilmorin, a model student at the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. He is inspired by the greats of contemporary fashion such as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Christian Lacroix. It will debut in Paris with the spring/summer 2022 collection.

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