Van Noten, Dries (1958)

DRIES VAN NOTEN IS A BELGIAN FASHION DESIGNER, FOUNDER OF THE NOUVELLE VAGUE STYLE.

Born in 1958, Dries Van Noten is a renowned Belgian fashion designer. The son of tailors, he developed a passion for fashion from a young age. He studied at the Royal Academy of Arts in Antwerp, where his talent was quickly recognized. During his studies, his first collection was fully bought by New York department store Barney’s and the store Whistles, marking a significant start to his career.

Van Noten is known for his attention to detail, use of high-quality fabrics, and his elegant and innovative style, which has made him a prominent figure in contemporary fashion.

The Antwerp Six

Dries Van Noten is considered a pioneer of the stylistic “nouvelle vague,” along with designers such as Dirk Bikkembergs, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Van Saene, and Marina Yee. These six designers, collectively known as the “Antwerp Six,” achieved great success starting in the mid-1980s. By presenting their innovative collections at London Fashion Week, they became symbols of avant-garde fashion looking towards the future.

Eclectic Style and First Boutique

In the spring of 1987, the designer presented his first ready-to-wear women’s collection, following his debut with a men’s collection in 1986. Five years later, he debuted in Paris. His style, eccentric yet balanced, combines classic shapes and fabrics enriched with original details and refined craftsmanship. His garments reflect a fusion of memories from his childhood and youth with lessons learned at the Royal Academy, creating a unique symbiosis that defines his brand.

“When we were studying at the Royal Academy in Antwerp, we were taught to find inspiration from everyone, everything, and everywhere. Even my parents and grandparents were a great inspiration for me at a very young age,” he said.

In the early 1990s, when Dries Van Noten had just opened his first boutique, he faced a harsh reality: all the companies that supplied the materials and produced the shoes for his collections were acquired by major brands such as Armani, Gucci Group, and Prada Group. This forced him to seek new suppliers. Fortunately, he found them in India, where new contractors began producing fabrics and accessories for his collections.

Over time, his collections developed a unique and recognizable style characterized by refined eclecticism, magical ethnic patterns, unusual decorations, and original prints, all combined with comfortable cuts and simple shapes.

Success in the 2000s

In 2007, the designer achieved a new milestone by opening his first Parisian boutique dedicated to women’s fashion. This event marked a significant expansion in the international fashion landscape. Two years later, in 2009, he continued his global expansion by opening a boutique in Tokyo, thus expanding his presence in the Asian market. Meanwhile, he strengthened his men’s clothing line with another store in Paris, reinforcing his influence in the French capital of fashion.

Van Noten’s success did not stop there. In 2008, he received the prestigious CFDA International Designer of the Year Award, recognizing his significant and innovative contribution to global fashion. That same year, the London-based RSA Trustee Board honored him with the title of “Royal Designer for Industry,” an accolade that acknowledges excellence in industrial design and its cultural impact.

These awards not only consolidated Dries Van Noten’s reputation as one of the most influential designers of his time but also highlighted his ability to combine stylistic eclecticism with successful commercial vision. With each new collection, Van Noten continues to astonish the fashion world with his inexhaustible creativity and commitment to high-quality tailoring.

2018 – Dries Van Noten

In 2009, Dries Van Noten received numerous prestigious awards that further solidified his position in the world of fashion. The Flemish Chamber of Commerce (VOKA) included him in the “Galerie des Eminents,” honoring his exceptional contribution to the fashion industry. Additionally, the Royal Flemish Academy of Belgium awarded him the Gold Medal, known as the “Gouden Penning,” a recognition celebrating excellence and innovation in design.

Not only in Europe but also internationally, Van Noten received significant accolades. The Couture Council of the Museum at FIT in New York honored him with the “Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion,” an honor recognizing his extraordinary artistic talent and mastery in the fashion industry.

These awards are a testament to Dries Van Noten’s ongoing influence on the global fashion landscape, underscoring his commitment to craftsmanship, innovation, and creativity. With each new collection, Van Noten not only sets trends but continues to inspire and elevate the fashion world with his unique style.

Dries Van Noten on display

In 2010, the Belgian designer was invited to chair the 25th edition of the “Festival International de Mode et de Photographie” in Hyeres, France, a prestigious event celebrating innovation in fashion and photography. Four years later, in 2014, he chaired the jury of the 7th “A Shaded View on Fashion Film” (ASVOFF) Festival, demonstrating his commitment to supporting new forms of artistic expression in the field of fashion.

That same year, Van Noten’s work was showcased at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris with the exhibition “Inspirations.” This exhibition was the first major retrospective dedicated to his work, offering a comprehensive overview of his career and creations. “Inspirations” was tremendously successful, setting a visitor record for the museum. The exhibition highlighted Van Noten’s eclecticism and artistic depth, celebrating his unique contribution to fashion through a selection of iconic garments and installations reflecting his sources of inspiration, from childhood memories to global cultural influences.

These events further solidified Dries Van Noten as one of the most influential and respected designers in contemporary fashion, recognized for his unparalleled creativity and dedication to promoting art and design.

The designer took to the stage in 2015 by designing the costumes for the chamber opera “Hagoromo,” directed by David Michalek and commissioned by the American Opera Projects. This production featured former principal dancers from the New York City Ballet, Wendy Whelan and Jock Soto, wearing creations by the Belgian designer. This project marked Dries Van Noten’s second foray into the world of contemporary dance, following his costume design for Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker’s “Rain” in 2001.

The collaboration with “Hagoromo” allowed Van Noten to further explore his artistic talent in a performative context, showcasing his versatility and ability to create garments that not only adorn but also enhance the movement and expressiveness of dancers. His attention to detail, combined with a sensitivity to visual storytelling, contributed to transforming the opera into an unforgettable aesthetic experience.

These experiences in the field of dance and performing arts enriched Van Noten’s creative vocabulary, influencing his approach to fashion and solidifying his role as an innovator capable of crossing and merging diverse artistic disciplines.

Puig acquires Van Noten

The Belgian maison entered the orbit of the Catalan group Puig in 2018. The Iberian beauty giant, which also controls brands such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, Paco Rabanne, Nina Ricci, and Carolina Herrera, acquired a majority stake in Dries Van Noten, thus expanding its portfolio of luxury brands.

“Puig will be the owner, but Dries will remain within the company in the long term with a significant minority stake,” they announced in a joint statement. “In addition, Van Noten will continue to serve as creative director and chairman of the board.”

Dries Van Noten 2020 collection Recent Years

It’s interesting how Dries Van Noten chose to collaborate with Christian Lacroix in 2019, bringing him back into the spotlight after a long absence from the runway. Their collaboration resulted in a collection that blends Van Noten’s folk style with Lacroix’s rococo elegance.

Lacroix, who had spent recent years focused on theater and cinema, rather than fashion, saw this special project as a significant return to the fashion scene. It highlights how collaboration between designers can produce surprising and unique creative results.

Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2022

It’s truly noteworthy that Dries Van Noten opened his first American store in 2020 in Los Angeles, choosing an iconic location on La Cienega Boulevard, previously occupied by Opening Ceremony. This space was not just a retail store but a place designed to offer a unique shopping experience, hosting various forms of artistic events.

Van Noten left the creative direction of his brand on March 19 2024

The news of his departure from the creative direction of his eponymous brand, announced on March 19, 2024, marks the end of an era in contemporary fashion. By presenting his final menswear Spring/Summer 2025 collection in Paris, Van Noten offers the public a last chance to see his creations on the runway. His contribution to fashion has been significant, not only for his distinctive style but also for how he has reinterpreted and influenced the global fashion landscape over the years.