Dietrich

Marlene (1901-1992). German actress, born Marie Magdalene Dietrich. Her name is permanently linked to the androgynous style of which she was the inspiration. The non-conformist tailored suits inspired by men’s clothing, loved by Dietrich on the set and in her private life, have been a source of inspiration for more than one fashion designer: from Yves Saint Laurent, a great interpreter of the woman’s tuxedo, to Giorgio Armani who, more than once, has called Dietrich his inspirational muse. She arrived in U.S. in 1930, after the success of her first film in a major role under the direction of her Pygmalion, Joseph Von Sternberg: Der Blaue Angel (The Blue Angel, 1929). Arriving in Hollywood with 25 trunks crammed with clothes and accessories, she signed a contract with Paramount, making her the competitor of Garbo at Metro Goldwyn Mayer. Although the new diva already had a weakness for men’s suits — even before moving to America, while still in Berlin, she had a tail-coat made by the tailor of her husband, Rudolf Sieber — the inventor of her look was the great costume designer Travis Banton. He was the one who encouraged her to go on a diet, and he was the one who created a completely different style for her, one that was impudent, winning, aggressive, and immediately fascinating. Banton was the creator of sensational outfits such as the chiffon dress with gold embroidery, so rich with precious stones that it looked as if it had just come from Fabergé, made for the film Angel (1937), and the one completely covered by black cock feathers that she wore in Shanghai Express (1932). On the set of that movie, Dietrich wore the famous two-tone shoes with a dark toe cap which she claimed was her own creation. Unfortunately, Chanel had already launched that model some time before.