Photographer Archives - Mame Fashion Dictionary

Barbieri, Gianpaolo

Barbieri Gianpaolo (1940). Italian photographer. He has staged a theatrical image of fashion, in black and white and in color.

Barbieri, Gianpaolo (1940). Italian photographer. He produced a theatrical image of fashion, presented in color and in black and white. Influenced by the cinema of the 1940s and ’50s, he used that experience in setting-up his photos. For example, if a photograph needed to be full of tension, he found inspiration in the anguished Ingrid Bergman of Spellbound. After a start working with his father, an expert in fabrics at Galtrucco, and after an attempt to make his name in the cinema as an actor and as a cameraman, he met Tom Kublin, became his assistant. Afterwards he chose to be a photographer. It was 1964. He worked for Harper’s Bazaar and, in 1965, published his first work for Vogue-Novità.

In the course of time, he produced advertising campaigns for some of the major fashion designers, both Italian and non-Italian, from Saint Laurent to Valentino and from Albini to Versace and Armani. He published the books Artificiale (1982), Silent Portraits (1984), Tahiti Tattoos (1989) and La mappa del desiderio, with a text by Antonio Tabucchi, for the jeweller Pomellato.

An exhibition dedicated to the famous fashion photographer took place at Palazzo Reale in Milan in 2007, who with his 140 color and black and white photos traces the career of the artist who has portrayed the greatest icons of style, including Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Veruschka, Iman, Jerry Hall and Monica Bellucci.

Other works by Barbieri

In 2008 in Piazza Risorgimento, Rome, Barbieri Gianpaolo celebrated the birth of the first Morellato Gold collection of precious jewels, through a series of shots called The True Nature of Gold.

He also published the book Tahiti Tattoos, with 125 black-and-white photographs on the ritual art of the island.

Moreover the photographer offered his personal interpretation of the calendars which are found all over the walls of Italian homes. For GQ magazine Barbieri portrays the two “handout” girls (ragazze velina) of Striscia la notizia, under the artistic direction of Frankie Mayer.

In the Photology gallery on via della Moscova in Milan, an exhibit about the 1960s and ’70s called Gian Paolo Barbieri — A History of Fashion is dedicated to the photographer’s work of that period.

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Abbe, James

Barbeau, Serge

Barbeau, Serge (1951). Canadian photographer. In 1975 at the age of 24 he obtained a masters in Communication and the same he become a fashion photographer.

Barbeau, Serge (1951). Canadian photographer. In 1975 at the age of 24 he obtained a masters in Communication and that same year decided to become a fashion photographer. Two years later he published his first editorial work in New York, and in 1985 he moved to Milan where he worked for the magazines Anna, Donna and Vogue Bellezza.

In 1995 Barbeau moved to Paris where he still lives and works. His photos have been published in Biba, L’Optimum, Madame Figaro, Marie Claire France, Arena, L’Officiel, and Vogue Spain.

Among his clients we can find Dior, Galeries Lafayettes, Lacoste, Lanvin, La Perla, L’Oréal, and Wella.

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Bailey, David Royston

Bailey David Royston (1938). English photographer. He was self-taught and became interested in photography while in the army.

Bailey David Royston (1938). English photographer. He was born on January 2, 1938 in a poor London neighborhood. Bailey, a self-taught photographer, became interested in photography while in the army, fascinated by a photo by Henri Cartier Bresson. At the end of the war he began to work as an assistant to the fashion photographer John French, who chronicled the taste of the high bourgeoisie. When barely 22, David, who had already experienced the anxieties of the generation of “angry young men” who were fans of jazz (he is a good trumpet player) and the theater of John Osborne, was discovered by Vogue. It was the 1960s when Vogue hired him.

Bailey also worked freelance for Elle, Glamour, the Daily Express, the Sunday Times, and the Daily Telegraph. He took his photos with the same spontaneity with which he lived in the swinging London of the time, surrounded by fame, by the friendship of rock stars, and by the love of very beautiful women such as Catherine Deneuve, who he married in 1967 and would be the second of his four wives. All this inspired Michelangelo Antonioni in his film Blow Up. In fact the character of the photographer played by David Hemmings is based on him and on John Cowan.

His nonchalance and his rapid style made him part of the counter-culture.

With his friends Terence Donovan and Brian Duffy, he was a member of The Terrible Three. His pictures, with their great freshness of execution and extraordinary spontaneity, were very much influenced by film, especially by the Nouvelle Vague.

Publications and awards

Bailey always worked with a single model, first Jean Shrimpton and then Marie Helvin. He always places great emphasis on the relationship between the dress and the person wearing it. He published several books, including David Bailey’s Box of Pin-Ups (1965), Goodbye Baby and Amen (1969), David Bailey’s Trouble and Strife (1980), If We Shadows (1989), The Lady Is A Tramp (1995), Birth of the Cool (1999), and Chasing Rainbows (2000). Moreover, he made two films, one about Cecil Beaton (1971), and one about Andy Warhol (1973). He has had many exhibits all over the world, including the great anthological retrospective show at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum in 1984. He is an honorary member of the Royal Photographic Society.

Furthermore he is also a serious collector. Among his favorites find Man Ray, Roger Fenton and Henry Fox Talbot, the Englishman considered, for his calotypes, one of the inventors of photography.

In 2001 he was awarded the Order of the British, an order of chivalry established by King George V on 4 June 1917.

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Badulescu

Badulescu. Stage name of Enrique Coròdoba (1961). Mexican photographer who studied photography in Munich. He has worked with Valentino, Armani and Galliano.

Badulescu. Stage name of Enrique Coròdoba (1961). Mexican photographer who studied photography in Munich. He quickly made a name for himself due to the simplicity with which he worked. He only worked with one Hasselblad camera and a single tungsten flash. This was largely offset by his heavy colors and the originality of his daring shots. He was first published by the Mexican magazine Fotozoom.

S starting in the 1980s he contributed to a complete renewal of fashion photography in Mexico. At the same time his photos began to appear in foreign magazines such as The Face and L’Uomo, and in the various international editions of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. His work was also published on Elle, Conde Nast traveller, GQ, l’Officiel and Marie Claire.

Badulescu also collaborated with Four Season.

Convinced that fashion photography can go beyond the limits of the commercial market and build a bridge in the direction of art, Badulescu worked for Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Valentino, Nina Ricci, Gap and Galliano.

Additionally he has alo worked with Yves Saint Laurent, H&M, Michael Kors, Aldo, Desigual and Hèrmes.

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Backhaus, Maria Vittoria

Backhaus Maria Vittoria (1942). Italian photographer. She works in Milan. She has worked with Armani, Versace, Zegna, Tod’s and many others.

Backhaus Maria Vittoria (1942). Italian photographer. She works in Milan and is considered one of the best for taking still life photos of accessories, jewels, objects, adn the kitchen. She studied set design at the Accademia di Brera and began her career as a reporter for the weekly magazine Tempo in the second half of the 1960s. Later she worked in fashion, collaborating especially with Vogue Italia and becoming a close friend of Walter Albini. After arriving at the monthly Casa Vogue, under the direction of Isa Tutino Vercelloni, she began to work with still life, quickly demonstrating her talent, taste, and skill at working with lights. She favors large-format photography.

During her career, among many others, she worked for Giorgio Armani, Braccialini, Cartier, Casadei, Della Valle, Dolce & Gabbana, Gianfranco Ferré, Salvatore Ferragamo, La Rinascente, Moncler, Prada, Sambonet, Tod’s, Trussardi, Versace and Ermenegildo Zegna .

She is the niece of Arnaldo Mussolini and the daughter of Vito. He was the last editor-in-chief of Popolo d’Italia. She married Giorgio Backhaus, the translator of Max Horkheimer and Theodor Adorno, philosophers of the Frankfurt School.

Her work has. also been published on Amica, Io Donna, Elle, Vogue and Wallpaper.

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Durst, André

Durst André (1907-1949). French photographer. His pictures are closely connected to the formation of Surrealism. He has also worked for Vogue.

Durst André (1907-1949). French photographer. His pictures are closely connected to the formation of Surrealism. After arriving in Paris from Marseilles, he met often with Cocteau and Bérard. In 1934, he documented the Patou collection for French Vogue. Two years later, the magazine put him in charge of the photo department. They also made him responsible for photo features on the work of the great Parisian tailors from Balenciaga to Rochas.

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Avedon, Richard

Avedon Richard (1923-2004). American photographer. In his photos, which began to appear in the 1940s, the models became actors on unusual sets.

Avedon Richard (1923-2004). American photographer, one of the greatest in the field of fashion. In his photos, which began to appear in the 1940s, the models became actors on unusual sets: the zoo, a circus, a launching pad, a refuse dump. He encouraged his subjects to move as spontaneously as possible in order to obtain images of the greatest naturalness. After studying philosophy at Columbia University, he went to war.

On his return, in 1944, he began to be interested in photography and met Alexey Brodovitch, the art director of Harper’s Bazaar’s. Then he started to work for him in 1945. Once he had entered into the atmosphere of Brodovitch’s cerebral and deeply intellectual tones, Avedon would never abandon it. His work with the magazine would continue even with the directors who followed, until 1984. From 1966 to 1990 he also worked with Vogue. Many of his photos, in which the lens is focused on the “emotional geography” of a body or face, have been published by the French magazine Égoiste.

Muses and models of avedon

Very important in his photos, in addition to the particular points of view, the sharp angles, and the stroboscopic lights, is the background, almost always white in order to empty the picture and deprive it of any outside reference. He has discovered and launched the most important models, from Dovima to Suzy Parker to Veruschka, and from Twiggy to Penelope Tree to Lauren Hutton to Benedetta Barzini. The public at large knows his work through the advertising campaigns and TV commercials he has done for Revlon, Chanel, Dior, and Versace. He was the first to photograph a man for the cover of a women’s magazine. It was the actor Steve McQueen.

He has had several exhibitions of his work. Among them was the one in 1974 with portraits of his father, Jacob Israel, at the Museum of Modern Art. There was a retrospective of his fashion photos at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1978. In 1994 his work was the subject of a large traveling exhibition called Evidence, 1944-1994. In 1995 and 1997 he photographed the Pirelli calendars.

The Metropolitan Museum of New York dedicated a retrospective to him in September 2003. He died in San Antonio, Texas, following complications from a cerebral hemorrhage. In the US there is a museum entirely dedicated to him.

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Arbus Nemerov, Diane

Arbus Nemerov, Diane (1923-1971). American photographer born in New York into a wealthy family of Russian origin. She worked with Vogue, Glamour and others.

Arbus Nemerov, Diane (1923-1971). American photographer born in New York into a wealthy family of Russian origin — the Nemerovs — that owned the Russeks department store on Fifth Avenue. At the age of 18 she married Allan Arbus and together they opened a photographic studio interested in fashion, doing work for Vogue and Glamour. She concentrated on taking the photos, she on the visual concept.

The collaborative/marital crisis

By 1957 their collaboration was beginning to wear thin, just like their marriage. Allan began to take acting lessons. Then Diane went around the city taking pictures. The studio was officially closed only in 1969. It was in this period that Diane’s personality as a photographer came out. This was partly thanks to the encouragement of her teacher, the great Lisette Model, but also to the influence of photographers such as Weegee and Robert Frank, with their “rough style,” and the rigorous August Sander.

Arbus in the 1960s

In the 1960s she worked for Junior Bazaar, Esquire, Nova, The New York Times, and New York Magazine (starting with its very first issues, when it was the Sunday magazine of the Herald Tribune).

She published portraits in Infinity and worked with Richard Avedon and Marvin Israel on Picture Newspaper, a large-format photomagazine which published twelve issues from 1968 to 1971. She was also interested in teaching and held several workshops. And finally, she had a column in Harper’s Bazaar entitled At My Age. She often alternated fashion pieces with images that were harsh, and sometimes violent, in a language that was blunt and basic.

After working many years with a Leica, she turned to the square-format Rolleiflex, at the same time changing her aesthetic vision. In 1967 her great solo exhibit at the Museum of Modern Art in New York made the photos famous. It also emphasized the anxious and fragile aspects of her character. In 2006 Nicole Kidman played the photographer in the film “Fur – An imaginary portrait of Diane Arbus“.

The fictional story aims to show how Diane was able to appreciate the world of diversity by gradually entering the world of the Freaks. Until she fell in love with Lionel and his fur.

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Armstrong Jones, Antony

Armstrong Jones, Antony (1960-2017). English photographer. He began to take photographs when still a student, becoming a professional in 1951.

Armstrong Jones, Antony (1930-2017). English photographer, born in Sussex. He began to take photographs when still a student at Eaton and Cambridge, becoming a professional in 1951. He quickly became famous thanks to a refined and rigorous style. In fact he published photos in Life, Vogue, Geo, Stern, Paris Match, and Look. In 1960 he married Princess Margaret (from whom he was to divorce a few years later), the sister of Queen Elisabeth II. The Queen bestowed on him the title of Lord Snowdon. He divorced Princess Margaret in 1978.

In 1961 Armstrong Jones signed an exclusive contract with the Sunday Times and joined the staff of the Council of Industrial Design. Some of his work was also published in Vanity Fair and The Daily Telegraph magazine. In addition to his fashion photographs, taken almost exclusively for the English edition of Vogue, he shot reportage and social documentaries for the BBC. For this he received various prizes and awards.

Some of his photography subjects include Marlene Dietrich, Lynn Fontanne, David Bowie, Elizabeth Taylor, Rupert Everett, Anthony Blunt, David Hockney, Iris Murdoch, Tom Stoppard, and Vladimir Nabokov.

In 2006, Tomas Maier, the creative director of Bottega Veneta, Snowdon photographed the Fall/Winter 2006 campaign.

Armstrong Jones Antony passed away on January 13, 2017, in Kensington at the age of 86.

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Vogue

Art Kane

Arthur Kaanofsky, also known as Art Kane (1925-1995). American photographer, born in New York, in the Bronx, to a family of Russian Jewish immigrants.

Arthur Kaanofsky, also known as Art Kane (1925-1995). American photographer, born in New York, in the Bronx, to a family of Russian Jewish immigrants. Art Kane, whose real name was Arthur Kanofsky, became famous as a graphic designer at a young age and, when 27, was hired by Esquire, the youngest art director of his time.

Art Kane and and photography

He decided to become a photographer, and suffered a demanding apprenticeship under Alexey Brodovitch, the legendary art director at Harper’s Bazaar. By the end of the 1950s Kane had made a name for himself in photography as well, thanks to a very personal style. He was the first, in fact, to use an extreme wide-angle lens of 21 mm and produced well-known images shot close-up from below of models such as Verushka, Jean Shrimpton, and Margaux Hemingway, published by Vogue, Look, Life, McCall’s, Esquire and Harper’s Bazaar.

Not just fashion

In addition to his fame as a fashion photographer, he is known for his photos of musicians, especially jazz musicians. Since his death, the artist’s archive has been managed and preserved by the Art Kane Estate. His son Jonathan is an expert on the work and one of its greatest supporters. Kane’s celebrated photograph in which the rock band The Who is completely wrapped in the flag is imitated by other young groups such as Oasis and repeated twenty years later by the original English band.

The Govinda Gallery of Washington, D.C. mounted a solo exhibition for the artist, in collaboration with his foundation. Fashion photos and pictures of pop idols and various American celebrities were among the exhibited works.

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L’Uomo Vogue