Philippe (1905-1991). French photographer nicknamed the “Fashion Bible” for having been the official photographer for the Officiel de la Couture for 25 years. He had the great Nadar as a teacher. He started working for the French edition of Vogue in 1934 and was immediately hailed as a wizard with his use of lighting. He then worked for Plaisir de France, Fémina and in 1945 for Elle, which was his launch pad to the Officiel. He had a studio in Rue Verneuil. Pottier, who also loved color photography, took portraits of the most famous models of the time, including Bettina, Nicole de Lamargé, Simone D’Aillencourt, Capucine, and Odette Rousselet.
Adriano (1897-1955). Italian tailor. Born in Teramo. He belonged to the Abruzzese school of tailoring. After moving to Milan in the 1930s, he opened his first atelier in Via dell’Orso, specializing in men’s fashion. He made frequent trips to London to source special and unusual fabrics. His style was sober and classic, with characteristic wide lapels. A passionate art collector, he dressed Giorgio De Chirico, Massimo Campigli, Arturo Martini, Piero Marussig, Lucio Fontana, and many others. One of his clients after the war was Giovanni Gronchi, who then went on to become President of the Republic. He also created women’s suits of which Claretta Petacci was a fan.
Term in Milanese dialect used affectionately to refer to the young girls starting out at dressmakers and fashion ateliers: they would do a bit of sewing, tidy the rooms and deliver packages to customers. They wore aprons, smiled at the titillating gossip, and blushed under the gaze of the customers’ husbands and lovers. Some went on to become premières and others, like Olga Villi, a star model and then actress.
Milanese milliner’s. Founded by Mario Peter, born in Biella, who opened a milliner’s shop at 4 Via Bigli in 1910, specializing in the wholesale supply of women’s hats. His daughter Luciana joined the company in 1948 and continued the business with Peter Mode, which specialized in wedding headgear of their own production and imported from France. Peter’s granddaughter Paola Battistoni joined the firm in 1996 and launched the Peter Shop brand. The business expanded into accessories, gloves, scarves, and costume jewelry, and offers a hire service for special occasions.
This Foundation is concerned with the exchange between the various types of visual media (art, fashion, architecture, design, photography, cinema), and through this the construction of an up-to-date fashion culture with its own analytical and representative tools, on a level comparable to contemporary culture. The Foundation has the task of autonomously promoting exhibitions and publishing projects, and of drawing attention to the most innovative artistic phenomena from which fashion takes its materials and for which fashion itself is increasingly often a reason for, and subject of, reflection and production. To succeed in uniting these different elements — culture, entertainment, ground-breaking research and the popularisation of artistic media — the Foundation adopts sophisticated strategies and different means (exhibitions, books, performances, installations, videos). While doing this, the Foundation must also maintain a vital and constant link with the economic realities of which it is originally an expression, and over the years consolidate its status as an institution in the field of contemporary culture. Pitti Immagine Discovery officially came into being on 9 April 1999. The challenge was to find a place in Florence where attention could be concentrated on the most stimulating research into contemporary media. In Spring 2002 Pitti Immagine and the Florence Center for Italian Fashion transformed the project into the Pitti Immagine Discovery Foundation, with the aim of bringing greater consistency and institutional standing to the Group’s activities in the contemporary field. Alfredo Canessa is the Foundation’s president, Lapo Cianchi is the general secretary and Francesco Bonami is the artistic director, fashion curator Maria Luisa Frisa.
Lola (1893-1985). French dressmaker born in Belgium. She was called Leontine, but chose Lola as her working name. She set up on her own in Paris in 1937, after being discovered by Hermès. Her creativity played on a taste for high-quality craftsmanship, fabrics, jewelry, and hand-embroidery, fuelled by research trips to India, Greece, and Egypt. She worked up to the age of 87.