Italian designer label devoted entirely to teenage fashion. It has 21 stores in Italy, and is best known for its T-“shirts and vest-tops. Onyx has recently developed a “total look” approach to the market, producing jeans, tracksuits, and sport shoes, and a range of beachwear which includes swimsuits, flip-flops, and sarongs. Onyx’s philosophy is based on the freedom to experiment with clothes, thereby capturing young trends and appealing to the young’s tastes. Onyx’s accessories, shoes, and sunglasses and are very sought after by young people. At present Onyx has about ten flagship stores, a network of about 2,000 European customers, and a dynamic branch in Barcelona which always keeps its finger on the fashion pulse. There are two main collections: Onyx and Onyx Jeans, which is famous for adding a touch of vintage to its creations to appeal to the latest generations. Apart from its vast range of accessories (shoes, bags, belts, hats, scarves, and costume jewelry), Onyx also has a line of sunglasses produced by De Rigo. The revolutionary hi-tech Onyx stores are dynamic and entertaining, offering interactive spaces where people can read, listen to music, watch television, and surf the net, as well as shop.
Benny (1949). English designer of Asian origin, known for his very feminine evening dresses. Born in Singapore, he studied at the St. Martin’s School of Art in London and started his own business in 1974 after working for different companies.
Medium-weight, closely-woven fabric, with clearly visible horizontal threads. Can be made from silk, wool, cotton, or rayon, with different wefts.
Gilbert. French milliner. Active on the fashion scene from 1938 to 1972, who retired when the concept of the hat as an essential item of dress died out. After the war he became established worldwide and won a Neiman Marcus Award, which is considered the equivalent of the Oscars in the fashion business. A few years after starting out he had four ateliers that produced a total of at least thirty hats a day.
Business name of John Kelley (1897-1964), an American costume designer. He formed one of the most celebrated partnerships between a costume designer and screen star with Bette Davis (like Garbo-Adrian and Dietrich-Banton). His creations influenced American women’s fashion for over 30 years: his dresses for Ingrid Bergman in Casablanca were copied by millions of women. Born in Australia, he arrived in Hollywood in 1932 and thanks to his friendship with Cary Grant he joined Warner Bros., where he worked as wardrobe director for eleven years. His most intriguing outfits for Bette Davis were those worn by the actress in Jezebel (1938). Famed for his lavish life style, his weakness for alcohol cost him his job at Warner. He then moved to Fox and from 1950 to 1964 he worked freelance for all the major American studios, though always making the costumes for Bette Davis. His formative Broadway experience proved essential for his work on the film musicals An American in Paris (1951) and Les Girls (1957), for which he won two Oscars. He won his third for Some Like it Hot (1959).
Short haired, sheared, and shining fur similar to a beaver’s, but dark brown or black, and more precious.
Renato (1925). Journalist and writer. Former editor of Grazia magazine. He started off his career in the early 1950s in Turin working for Popolo Nuovo. But it was only in 1953 that he got involved in the fashion world, when Arnoldo Mondadori employed him in the editorial office of Grazia, the most important women’s weekly magazine of the time. A few months later, the founder of Grazia promoted Olivieri to the role of editor, a position he was to keep for twenty years. Under his influence the magazine started dealing with national issues and topics of general interest, transforming itself from a women’s magazine to a family one. After a brief spell at Casaviva, an interior design magazine which he founded and later went on to inspire similar magazines, Olivieri became editor of Arianna, which was merged with Cosmopolitan during his time there. By observing and studying the style of the American press, Olivieri brought new standards to his magazine, introducing a revolutionary way of presenting news and graphics. After three years as editor, he moved up to a managerial position on the board of the magazine.
Women’s ready-to-wear label. Oscar Raajmakers and Suleyman Demir were both born in Holland in 1972 and they followed the same course at the Fashion Department of the Arnhem Arts Academy from 1992 to 1996. They started off working together for various designers, including Vivienne Westwood, Dice Kayek, and Veronique Leroy. After creating collections for Bijenkorf, an Amsterdam department store, and the Parisian boutique-cum-gallery L’Epicerie, they launched their first women’s collection in 1996.
Hosiery range created in 1987. Specialized in the production of support and anti-cellulite tights. Distributed throughout Europe, USA, South America, Japan, and South Africa.
&Quad;2002. Oroblu attended the New York Fashion Coterie, the most important East Coast exhibition for up-and-coming labels on the American market. The Made in Italy section is managed by Ente Moda Italia in collaboration with the Institute of Overseas Commerce.
&Quad;2003. The Oroblu division was the only success story in a bad year for its parent group CSP International, whose losses doubled at the end of 2002 despite a good year for the lingerie market. Sanpellegrino and Oroblu accounted for 29.2% of the group’s total sales, an increase of 6.4% from 2001.
Todd (1962). American fashion and interior designer. Originally from Texas, he became established by selling his creations to Neiman Marcus in Dallas. He then moved to New York and signed a contract with the Japanese distribution company Kashiyama to produce the Times Seven range, launched in 1990. A year later he created his first collection under his own name, followed shortly after by a range of jeans, sunglasses, shoes, and perfume. He has stores in New York, Miami South Beach, Los Angeles, and Tokyo. In 1998 he began producing a sportswear range for men. Admirers of his original, multiethnic, sexy, and colorful styles include Susan Sarandon and Cindy Crawford. In 1998 the excessive costs of fashion shows and advertising forced him to shut down his major range and go on the defensive: private clients, a cheaper range, a line of jeans, and a single boutique in Soho.
&Quad;Towards the end of the 1990s, Oldham intensified his collaboration with MTV, and after designing the interior of a bus sent by the music channel on tour around America to encourage young people to vote, he has worked on the interior design of the Tiffany Beach Hotel in Miami and some shopping malls in Las Vegas.
&Quad;2001, September. The Target chain commissioned Oldham to create a range of home accessories. The Todd Oldham Dorm-room Collection was launched across 1019 Target stores in summer 2002.