Filippo (1913-1987). Italian men’s tailor. He was very well known for his ability to calculate measurements by eye. A mayor of New York wanted a copy made of a double-breasted jacket that was a perfect fit and hung beautifully. For Nativo, it was enough to see him once in the middle of a crowd. A Sicilian, carrying on a family tradition (his father had a small workshop at Santa Croce in Camerina, near Ragusa), between the two wars he lived in Tunisia working in the building trade. In 1945 he returned to Italy, this time to the north, and went to work in the tailoring atelier of Ristori in Florence. He set up on his own, experimenting with new materials. He attracted clients like Bista Giorgini, who launched the runway shows at Palazzo Pitti, and was one of the most important figures in the new Italian fashion industry. It was for Nativo that a very young Enrico Coveri appeared on the runway wearing an outfit that could be changed with a system of zips. After his death, his son took over the atelier.
French fashion house, founded in 1932 by Maria Nielli Ricci, known as Nina (1883-1970), who was born in Turin but emigrated to Montecarlo as a young girl, where her father, a ribbon producer, aimed to expand his activity among the most effervescent female clientele of the late 19th century. The premature loss of her father significantly affected Maria’s destiny. Noting her ability to sew clothes and, above all, hats for her dolls, her family found her employment in one of the city’s ateliers. However, her talents and hard work must have been an extraordinary force, given that she was already a première in Paris by 18 and employed by Raffin, one of the most successful fashion houses of the time, by 25. Nina stayed there for twenty years and became a partner. The store’s sign included her name and surname, that of Luigi Ricci, a jeweler of Italian origin and an unlucky meteor in her life. Their marriage was brief, although it produced a son, Robert (1905-1988), who was the true force behind the launch of Nina Ricci in 1932. Like many other Italian fashion houses in recent years (Fendi, Missoni, Versace), the family, a synergy of strength and aims from one generation to the next, has been the secret behind this world conquering brand, one of the most popular in Paris, that enjoyed particular periods of success during its long life, such as during the 1960s and the late 1980s. It was Robert who convinced his mother not to abandon fashion as she approached the age of fifty. Despite being only 27, he had a long-term vision and his advertising experience was invaluable. The unbeatable technical skills of Nina and her view of elegance that never overwhelmed a woman’s personality did the rest. And so Nina Ricci was born and it was an immediate success: even though the fashion house dressed some famous actresses, such as Danielle Darrieux and Micheline Presle, it was primarily aimed at middle-class women, offering impeccable models that were destined to last, and at moderate prices. In a few years (1932-39), the 25 members of staff became 150 and the workshops grew from 4 to 12. Nina Ricci overtook all other houses in terms of client numbers. After World War II, the perfume, L’air du temps, launched by Roberto Ricci, who was by now owner of half Nina Ricci’s capital, became one of the top five perfume successes in the world with its flowery overtones and its Lalique bottle designed by Christian Bérard. In the haute couture sector, with an absolute coup de grÀce, Nina was succeeded by a young Belgian designer, Jules Franµois Crahay, whose first collection (1959) gained the enthusiasm not only of the press but also of the female public: a hundred women wanted his Crocus suit. But Crahay went to join Lanvin (1963) and was replaced by Gérard Pipart, who was perhaps the designer most in tune with the aims of the founder: that of respecting the form and well-being of women, over and beyond contemporary trends. Pipart combined tailoring skills acquired from working with Balmain, Fath, and Givenchy, with a love of detail, a harmony of forms and colors. To this he added a sporting touch, the elegance and ease of ample and soft garments, coats and blouses, soft shoulders, prints, and wafts of chiffon. Pipart received the Dé d’Or in 1987 for the best collection. In 1994, Nina Ricci was a formidable group, present in 130 countries, with more than 100 prêt-à-porter lines, thanks to the foresighted introduction of new capital and the work of Roberto Ricci’s son-in-law, Gilles Fuchs, hailing from a perfume company in Grasse and therefore well prepared to manage a company that, notwithstanding its successes in the fashion field, based 75% of its business on perfume.
&Quad;2000. The new millennium was marked by the acquisition of Nina Ricci by Antonio Puig, a Spanish group specializing in cosmetics.
&Quad;2002. The company took part with other French brands (including Cacharel and Christian Lacroix) in Lingerie Americas held at the Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building in New York.
&Quad;2002, Spring. James Aguiar took over from Nathalie Gervais and Massimo Guissani, creators of womenswear. He designed the women’s and men’s prêt-a-porter and accessory lines. The first men’s collection by Aguiar debuted in Summer 2003.
&Quad;2003, April. Lars Nilsson left Bill Blass and returned to Paris to join Nina Ricci. The Danish designer, who had left the French capital in 1999 to move to New York, was to help relaunch the fashion house.
Synthetic fibers company specializing in continuous thread nylon micro fibers: super opaque and soft to the touch, classic and shiny, or almost natural. Nylstar produces the anti-stress comfort fiber, Meryl Souple, an updated version of Meryl: it is extremely absorbent with regard to humidity and body vapor and eliminates static electricity. It does not create sparks or discharge a magnetic field. The elastomere fiber Élite is by the same company: this provides the textile in which it is used with an elastic strength. Elastomere is like cold rubber, it is relatively heavy and stable. A mixture of between 3% and 30% of these fibers in a textile is sufficient to ensure elasticity.
A new section, dedicated to young designers, at the Momi-ModaMilano event. Launched on March 28, 1998, it is directed towards young talents who have already produced a collection. The guests at the event are able to present their own lines in an exhibition space that is differentiated from that of Milan Collections.
Prêt-à-porter brand created and launched in 1992 by two designers from Moscow, Nina Neretina (1968) and Donis Poupis (1969). Donis, born in Cyprus, moved to Moscow in 1989, a year of monumental changes (the fall of the Berlin wall) and significant developments in the Soviet Union. He met Nina at the Textile Academy, which they both attended from 1987 to 1992. Their style is influenced by European fashions, at that time by the English pop style of McQueen and Westwood. Their new collections, by now known and sold across the world and presented at London Fashion Week, continue to refer to the ideas that inspired them in the past, while always paying attention to the present.
The name of the most refined and elegant line produced by the Ma.Ni Group that was founded in Ferrara in 1989 to produce and distribute women’s prêt-à-porter. The Group’s other line is called Miss NR and is more youthful and trendy. Both productions are characteristically made using craft techniques and exclusive materials.
Takizawa (1960). Japanese designer, born in Tokyo. He took a degree at the Kuwusawa Design School. From 1981, he entered the Miyake Design Studio, where he was responsible for the Plantation line. From 1993, he was responsible for the Issey Miyake men’s collection. In 1998, he received the Mainichi Fashion Prize, which the Japanese daily newspaper Mainichi awards every year to figures who have distinguished themselves in the fashion sector. Before him, Miyake himself and Kawakubo had received it.
&Quad;2001. To mark twenty years of collaboration with the Miyake studio, Naoki began his runway show at the Carrousel du Louvre for Fall-Winter 2001-2002 with a howling wind.
&Quad;2001, April. The collaboration between the Japanese designer and Alain Mikli resulted in the Libellula glasses range, the result of three years work divided between France and Japan. The frames were launched in six different models, for spectacles and sunglasses. The concept is that of an insect that adapts to the needs of technology: special materials, such as titanium, acetate, grilamide, and stainless steel make it possible to bend the frames so that they can be placed in the transparent cocoon-case designed by Takizawa.
Josie (1947). American designer of ultra glamorous underwear, her creations can be worn both under and over other clothes. Her most famous pieces are little slips and bras exclusively embroidered in the Philippines. Some while ago she also launched a men’s line. With a degree in economics, she began her career as a consultant and currency trader on Wall Street. However, in 1977, after nine years in high finance, she created her own company selling luxury underwear. She owns two important stores, one in New York and the other in Manila. President Clinton invited her to take part in the Small Business Trade Council. During the 1990s, she launched the perfume Natori, with substantial success. She has been awarded the prestigious Ellis Island Medal of Honor. In collaboration with the Asia Society of America and the Fashion Institute of Technology, she runs a course on traditional Philippine tailoring, where she teaches the use of fabrics such as pina (a fiber taken from pineapples) and abaca (obtained from bananas). The best pieces of work by her students are displayed as part of “Philippine Style 2000.”
&Quad;2002. The publication Josie Natori, written by Victoria Fung, celebrated 25 years of the designer’s career.
Italian external knitwear company, founded in 1949 by Alina Allazetta and Adele Mariani Malacarne. It enjoyed success and attention throughout the 1950s and 1960s. It employed designers such as Alberto Lattuada and Toni Aboud. In 1970, it was taken over by Ragno who sold it nine years later.
English fashion monthly published between 1965 and 1975. Founded by Harry Fieldhouse and Harry Peccinotti, it was published by Georges Newhes. It covered the iconoclastic fashions of the 1960s. The magazine was accompanied by the slogans of the women’s liberation movement and provocatively and ironically uncovered the dynamics regarding the objectification of the female form, ridiculing the traditional images of haute couture. It attracted the best photographers of the time, from Terence Donovan to Helmut Newton and Sara Moon, and exploded with color, insolence and vivacity. However, it traveled at an unsustainable speed and the publication came to an end with the first signs of political and economic change.