New Edwardians

(Teds). English youth movement, with a strong focus on clothing and fashion. It began in the early 1950s, as a popular revival of the opulent Edwardian period (1901-1910), with an additional touch of American Western inspiration. The members of the movement were known as Teddy Boys. The unisex look was based on knee-length riding coats (black, bright mauve, red, yellow or green), with padded shoulders and narrow waists, buttoned up high with velvet revers. They were very similar to the famous American “zootsuits.” They were worn with precious embroidered waistcoats, frilly shirts, and fastened at the neck with strings or thin ties, cowboy style. Their pants were straight and tight, and so referred to as “drainpipes,” and they were sometimes highlighted with a band of silk along the sides. Hair was normally worn long, swept back in a high quiff, with exaggerated sideburns. Though the luxurious, rich, and sophisticated Edwardian period lasted less than a decade (it came to an end with the death of Edward VII in 1910), this fashion went on for little longer. However, it represented a post-war period of carefree youth, amusement and a return to pleasure, almost an attempt to rediscover the lost madness of that English aristocracy. Although limited, the New Edwardians movement had its importance, above all in men’s fashions and the development of street style.

New Age

A combination of theories and philosophical doctrines based around the advent of the so-called Age of Aquarius (or the New Age). What was initially solely a spiritual doctrine evolved into a wide-scale success, as new age themes created or relaunched authentic styles of life and thought, marked by a relaxed vision of existence and its characteristics. New Age music describes in comforting notes the relationship between nature and humankind. During the last few years, many designers have presented collections inspired by soft colors, the most natural materials possible and the unambiguous simplicity inherent in New Age beliefs, in distinct contrast with the noisy and jostling styles of other collections and fashions. Based on a classification of time that takes its origins from the position of the sun amongst the constellations, it was precisely the arrival of the sun in the constellation of Aquarius (in the mid-1970s) that globally launched the complex doctrine that spiritualists had known and practiced for very many years. New Age was diffused throughout the world through music, writings of spiritual philosophers (in particular the world best-seller by James Redfield, The Celestine Prophecy) and above all the birth of thousands of groups of thought and philosophy that drew on this life theory in a direct or indirect way. The philosophy seeks to expand as far as possible the individual’s spirituality, it is opposed to the Christian religion (and is in turn bitterly opposed), widening the concept of God to the single individual and all individuals, it professes to believe in reincarnation and pays great attention to the Oriental philosophers. A principal characteristic of New Age is that the search for knowledge is replaced by the search for wisdom, which is obtained through all disciplines of human activity, from the economy (with the massive relaunch of environmental issues and the search for a different relationship between man and the environment), to politics (emphasizing cooperation between individuals), to medicine (privileging the use of natural remedies). Psychology is fundamental, strongly underlining values that transcend the individual and allow room for so-called paranormal phenomena.

Nolita

An area of New York. Nolita, or rather “north of little Italy,” is the new alternative neighbourhood in New York and is, above all, the centre of youth fashion in the city. Located alongside the shops and restaurants of a Little Italy that is slowly disappearing and was captured so masterfully in Francis Ford Coppola’s The Godfather, are the boutiques of Tracey Feith and Christopher Totman, shops like Calypso and Language that stock the best of alternative and youth fashions, from America and abroad.