A brand of ready-made clothing and the name of about forty Dutch boutiques. It constitutes a small empire in Holland, Belgium, Germany, and England and developed out of a distribution company — Peek and Kloppenburg — in 1976 as a result of an intelligent strategy, that of targeting the youth market even at the cost of exaggerating the designs.
&Quad;2003. The entire production was amalgamated under the two brands Peek & Cloppenburg and Mac & Maggie.
Francesco (1974). Italian designer, nephew of Enrico Coveri, son of Silvana Coveri, who took over the brand after her brother’s death. Francesco joined the fashion house at 22, signing the You Young Coveri collection. From Alessia Mertz’s Poppea-style bath to garments personalized with emails to the latest candy girls, his runway shows have always been full of innovation. He is the artistic director of the Enrico Coveri Man and Woman line, which has been presented at Milan Moda Donna since the Spring-Summer 2002 collection. He received the Ago d’oro award in 1998 and the Donne Circe and Arte e Immagine nel mondo in 2002.
A small, metal evening bag, first created by Cartier in 1900. Today it is sometimes decorated with diamantés and hard stones and worn over the shoulder, with or without a chain.
Italian outer-knitwear company. Founded in 1962 by Sivia Stein Bocchese, it has collaborated with YSL and Celine. It works with Alaïa, Sonia Rykiel, Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana. Since 1977, it has produced a collection of throws, cushions, and womenswear named Miles Home, made of knitwear. They are high quality products, of which 70% is exported.
&Quad;2003, June. Following the decision to concentrate more closely on high-quality knitwear for important fashion houses such as Armani, Valentino Boutique, and Louis Vuitton, the Abitificio brand was licensed out. The company that accepted the challenge was Confezioni Peserico. Its task is to strengthen the womenswear brand, and to improve the supply and market strategies.
Robert (1946-1989). American photographer born in New York. Mapplethorpe had a passion for the saxophone, which he studied and played with some talent, but later decided to enroll at the Pratt Institute, from which he graduated in 1970 with a diploma in photography. His first images were influenced by his collaboration with the singer and poet Patti Smith, one of his fellow students and, at that time, his muse. After starting with a Polaroid camera, he then progressed to a Hasselblad, which he used solely on a tripod. He remained faithful both to black-and-white images and the square format, which he considered particularly harmonious. His relationship with fashion was not a direct one, even though it was intense: before dedicating himself entirely to research (portraits, nudes, and his shocking flower photographs), he produced the volume Lady in 1983 with images of the model and bodybuilder Lisa Lyon wearing designs by Armani, Ferré, Carolina Herrera, Montana, Krizia, Saint Laurent, and others.
Mary (1938). American designer with an ethnic influence. She has made great use of African and Chinese textiles, in quilted jackets and pleated silk tunics in the style of Fortuny. Born in New York, she spent her childhood on a cotton plantation near Memphis, Tennessee. With a degree in sociology from Columbia University, from 1962 to 1964 she worked in public relations for Dior in New York. In 1965, she moved to South Africa, where she worked as a fashion editor for Vogue. In 1968, she married in Zimbabwe and opened an atelier for young African sculptors. She returned to New York and in 1976 launched a company designing evening gowns made of bright and vivacious fabrics. She received the Coty Award in 1978 and is now part of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Her list of honors increased with a second Coty Award, a Neiman Marcus Award and a recognition from the Rhode Island School of Design. McFadden is now present in two American Halls of Fame: at Coty Hall and in the Best-Dressed List Hall of Fame.
&Quad;2002, March. At South Beach she received the Fashion Week of the Americas career award, as “an American fashion legend and an international innovator.” For the first time since it was launched in 1999, the prize was awarded to a non-Hispanic designer.
Nicole (1952). American designer born in Lenox, Massachusetts. Her studies at the Parisian haute couture schools taught her the importance of dress construction. Convinced that few women have perfect bodies, she aimed to flatter them as much as possible and to disguised any defects. Her taste for colors was inspired by her frequent travels to Brazil and her interest in the world of performance, in particular Broadway musicals. During the second half of the 1990s, she was one of the first American designers to send actresses down the runway instead of models: Minnie Driver, Jill Hennessy, and Gretchen Mol all accepted her invitation.
&Quad;2002. Miller celebrated 20 years of business as one of the great American designers. Her first “hip smock dress” was presented in 1982.
&Quad;2003, July. She launched a special silk tie to mark the inauguration of the National Constitution Center of Philadelphia, the first American museum dedicated entirely to the constitution. There were 30 Nicole Miller boutiques in the United States.
Kokichi Mikimoto, a diligent, friendly Japanese man, was the first person to produce a cultivated pearl, after years of experiments in 1893 in Mar. He became the official supplier to the Japanese royal family, beginning a tradition of high-quality production that continues to be prestigious. Mikimoto Quality and Mikimoto Top Quality are considered the most authoritative parameters in the classification of cultivated pearls, which are regulated by five internationally recognised evaluation criteria: color, form, brilliancy, pearly surface, and dimensions. The opening of the first Tokyo store dates to 1908. From 1920 onwards, others were opened in London, Paris, New York, and Los Angeles. The firm, of which Tohiohiko Mikimoto is the president, named a collection of pearl jewelry after Princess Grace of Monaco and initiated a collaboration with the Princess Grace Foundation — USA, an organization that supports young artists from around the world. Mikimoto Milano Collection is a line of jewelry made from gold, cultivated pearls, precious stones, and diamonds, which are designed and created in Italy by Giovanna Broggian. This collection, which is linked with the face of Catherine Deneuve, uses avant-garde techniques in the settings that respect the integrity of the pearl and emphasize its aesthetic qualities.”
Angela (1958). Italian designer. She worked in her family’s company for 17 years, learning different methods of production, organization and sales, before she created her own collection. Currently, she is the artistic and creative director of Missoni, responsible for communications, the image and style of the company. At the presentation of the Spring-Summer 1998 collection, she appeared on her own on the runway to receive the spectators’ applause, officially underlining the generational change within the fashion house. For Winter 2001-2002, she presented a collection on the runway dedicated to her father Ottavio’s 80th birthday: one-off pieces, with the tabloid-patchwork that heralded the success of the brand. The designer was inspired by Picasso’s iconography for the Summer 2002 collection and, for the following winter, she evoked the Danube, Transylvania, the Secession, and the fable of Hansel and Gretel.
&Quad;2002, October. For Milano Moda Donna, Angela Missoni proposed a light and seductive collection of stripes, geometric motifs, and patterns typical of the Missoni style, with the addition of various extra touches. Light scarves draped around the neck, floating ribbon-strings completed the garments like jewelry. Bustier-dresses with small Greek key motifs in contrasting knit and rayon, mini kimono-blouses in silk crepon printed with small geometric flowers, with appliquéd patchwork, short skirts that seem like patterned scarves.
&Quad;2003, March. The colors were even more sensual and romantic. Wave designs on knitted shorts, draped blouses in silk crêpe, mini-dresses that looked like seamless sweaters or with necklines decorated and fastened with long rows of buttons. Missoni also brightened up furs, with knitted fabric linings with wave motifs.
Carlos (1964). Brazilian stylist born in Sao Paulo. His basic line, M Office, has about a hundred retail outlets across Brazil and a turnover of roughly 60 million dollars. The originality of his creations is due to the intelligent mixture of the aesthetics of indigenous cultures (for example the use of feathers and shells) with a metropolitan style (reflected in materials like fiber-optics and Teflon). In 2000 he began a partnership with Coopa-Roca, a female cooperative based in Rocinha, one of the largest slums in Rio, in order to produce textiles made from cheap materials recycled from the city streets. In 2003, he opened a store in New York (the first one outside Brazil) in the Meatpacking District of Manhattan. The shop was designed by the architecture studio, Asymptote.