Tan (1934). French designer. Born in Indochina with a Corsican father and a Vietnamese mother, he collected and summarized for himself the tastes of West and East, synthesizing them in his work. He created his first designs when he was still in school in Vietnam, all the time dreaming about Paris. In 1956 he arrived in Paris where he found a job at Dior. He later worked with the designer, Jules Franµois Crahay in the fashion house, followed by Jacques Heim. In 1972 after being the designer for Mic Mac for a long period of time, he presented his own Collection characterized by a strong oriental inspiration. From a managerial point of view, his path was rather uneven. He always worked for third parties, designing, for example, some Hermès Collections with Claude Brouet. In recent years, he has proposed a new perfume for Le Club des Créateurs de Beauté of Paris.
Andrew (1967). Designer from Singapore. He studied in England and enrolled at St. Martin’s School of Art in London. During this time he won the French Connection Award, which was created for promising young designers of the English-French style. This acknowledgement allowed him to attend the Parson’s School of Design. In 1990 he moved to Milan to attend the Domus Academy where he studied under instructors of great calibre, such as Romeo Gigli, Gianfranco Ferré, and Anna Piaggi. Two years later he moved to Paris to collaborate with the couturier at the Ungaro fashion house. In 1996 he decided to launch his own womenswear line, which is now sold in the most prestigious shops in the world. Since 2002 he has been present every year at the ready-to-wear week in Paris.
The group began from the merging of four textile industries, controlled since 1986 by the Holding Texinvest: the Saint Liévin spinning mill (1921), Ets M. Caultiez & Delaoutre (1879), Ets Paul Bonte (1910), and Sté Nouvelle Textile Saint Maclon (1946). The Saint Liévin spinning mill produced fantasy spun threads for knitwear, but also for weaving. Its structure was a continuous cycle starting with preparation, carding, and combing of the fiber. This large group (617 workers in 1999) originally dates back to wool weaving, but over the course of time it has transformed and expanded to include the development of new fibers, with continual investments in new machinery in the fantasy threads sector. Export has increased by about 40% with the production of 5.5 million kilograms.
Wool or cotton diagonal fabric. Also refers to an overcoat made with this fabric. In 1902, Thomas Burberry registered the name as a brand and since then, along with the Burberry brand, it is practically synonymous with raincoat.
Annick (1946-1999). Perfume creator. She was a prodigy of the pianoforte, being awarded in a contest at the Conservatory of Paris at the age of 16. In order to be economically independent from her family (her father had a pastry shop), she helped the older owners of an hand-made homeopathic laboratory of perfumes, creams, and cosmetics. Her presence was fundamental in preventing the laboratory’s decline. Through his experience, she discovered her real vocation, to be a “nose,” as it is said in the jargon of the field of fragrances, colognes, and perfumes. In Grasse, in the laboratories of the Robertet fashion house, she created her first perfume, Folavril. She went on to create Sables, L’Eau de Camille, Passion and, with a lemon base, Eau d’Adrien that guaranteed her fame, not only in France. Her brand has four stores in Paris and exports all over the world through 450 sales points. In 1985 she arranged a partnership with the Groupe du Louvre, controlled by the Taittinger family, the great Champagne name. The brand’s turnover amounts to 21 billion. In 1999, Annick passed away after 20 years’ struggle against cancer. The company continues.
Silvia (1938). Journalist and writer, she lives and works in Milan. A correspondent with La Repubblica since the newspaper’s birth in 1976, she has often followed, alternating with Natalia Aspesi, the fashion events in Milan and Paris, and the men’s fashion at Pitti Immagine. In 1984, she wrote L’Italia della Moda (with photos by Alfa Castaldi, Mazzotta Publishing), a journey to the center of the fashion system (stylism and industry) that was not blindly laudatory. It had interviews with foreign journalists such as Bernardine Morris of The New York Times and John Fairchild, the columnist and editor of Women’s Wear Daily, and buyers such as Bruce Binder of Macy’s and Dawn Mello of Bergdorf Goodman. She has published two novels, La stanza vuota (1989) and Vieni qua, assassina (Longanesi, 1993), and the essay-enquiries Nobiltà della ricerca (1979), Designer italiani (1984), and Ecce coppia (1990).
A shabby and anonymous way of dressing in fashion from 1967 to 1973: second-hand clothes, creased blue jeans in poor condition, oversize pullovers and shirts, and oriental-style jewellery.
Nuno (1966). Portuguese designer. He is one of the most important names in Portuguese fashion which, in recent years, has reached the European stage. He graduated in design from Citex (Portuguese Institute of Fashion) and after working with some Spanish brands, Gama opened his own atelier in Porto in 1991 in partnership with Pedro P. da Silva. In 1992 he won the Sete de Ouro award. He exports his griffe to the U.S. as well.