Victor (1945). English designer. He followed the family trade, in a sense, because his parents had a manufacturing business. After apprenticeships with several important figures in British fashion, including Biba, he worked for the London subsidiary of Dior. He created his own women’s line in 1977. After 1982, he worked “custom-made” exclusively. He left the industry in 1993, declaring that there was no more market for luxury.
The designer creates the blue velvet dress that will be worn by Lady Diana when she dances with John Travolta at the White House later that year. That evening dress was the most important item at the charity auction held in New York in 1997 which brought around $5 million. The same dress was sold again at the Kensington Palace auction held in London in October 1999, together with 13 other models which Maureen Rorech had purchased for more than $1 million at the New York auction.
Edelstein models are shown at the Tennessee State Museum in Nashville. The exhibit Royalty and Elegance brings together royal clothes starting with the 17th century wardrobe of Charles I and continuing up to Queen Victoria, the Prince of Wales, Queen Elizabeth II, and Lady D. Different “royal styles” are represented, such as Tipper Gore’s for politics and Marilyn Monroe’s for Hollywood.
Joseph (1937). Hairdresser and fashion entrepreneur. Born in Casablanca, he moved to London where, in addition to his regular trade, he worked as a scout for new designer talent in order to show their clothes in his salon. He had excellent intuition and was among the first to understand, purchase, and sell the clothes of Kenzo and of Martin Kidman, with whom he would create the Joseph Kidman brand. Over time he would multiply the number of his boutiques, which offered a large number of international griffes. His name was used for several points-of-sale: Joseph Café, Joseph pour la Maison, Joseph pour la Ville, and Joseph Bis.
(1878-1966) pseudonym of Florence Nightingale Graham. Born in Canada, she moved to New York and went to work for a pharmaceutical company, which she left not long after, attracted by the cosmetics industry. In 1910, she adopted the “stage” name Elizabeth Arden and opened her first salon on Fifth Avenue. It was an exclusive beauty shop which offered its high society New York clientele treatments and massages for the body and face. The “total beauty” concept, followed from the beginning, would bring her good luck. Gifted with great intuition, in 1912 she developed a series of colored powders, a sort of precursor to blush. A few years later, returning from Europe, she introduced the first eye make-up in the American market, and a light non-oil face cream, called Venetian Cream Amoretta, that was revolutionary for its time. In 1915, with the launch of Arden Skin Tonic, she began to brand her products with her own name. It was a winning intuition which anticipated the age of beauty marketing and allowed her, along with other initiatives (see the creation of the first American joint stock company and cosmetics in small sizes suitable for travel), to build an empire. By the year of her death, the Elizabeth Arden group consisted of 17 companies and 40 beauty salons throughout the world. Thanks to constant investment in the field of research and image, the group today represents a classic of the avant-guard.
Unilever sells the brand to the U.S. group FFI Fragrances for about $240 million, with $190 million in cash and $50 million in stock. Unilever had acquired Arden in 1989.
FFI changes the group’s corporate name to Elizabeth Arden Inc. The company employs 1,300 people and sells beauty products in more than 40,000 shops in the U.S. and 90 other countries.
Catherine Zeta-Jones is featured in the Elizabeth Arden advertising campaign, which wins the Fifi Award, a prize given each year by the German Fragrance Producers Association to the best launch of a new line.
Sportswear company established in Perugia in 1959 by Leonardo Servadio. The first products were ski trousers in elasticized fabric. Seven years later, demand caused the company to build a new headquarters and plant. In 1970 and ’74, further success came from the revolutionary and patented jet pants (they would be shown at the 1979 exhibit which the Pompidou Center dedicated to Italian design) and from an innovative padded jacket, both for skiing. Later, the line grew to include tennis oufits, windsurf wear, swimwear, and leisure time clothes. Meanwhile, the company, which was the first in its field to put a brand label on the outside of its garments, carried out a massive sponsorship program. Over the years, it sponsored tennis champions such as Boris Becker, 10 national ski teams, various tennis opens, and the Italian soccer team that became world champion in 1982. In 1988 the brand sold licenses in the U.S. and Canada, and in 1989-1990 in Japan. In 1993, the Pentald Plc Group acquired 90% of the company. Between 1995 and ’97 it acquired the rest and also took over the brand in the U.S. and Canada. Ellesse makes the Magic Air jacket and it made the racing outfit worn by Jean Luc Cretier, the French skier who in 1998 won the men’s downhill at the Olympics in Nagano.
The European turnover is €210 million, 85% of which comes from the U.K.
An international reorganization of the company, owned by the British Pentland Group, is launched. The guidelines include the introduction of new management, a product restyling, and a reorganization of the sales network. The effort is led by Bill Sweeney, president of the Ellesse Division, and Christopher Lee, the creative director.
Italian ready-to-wear company established in 1941 by Aldo Botticelli in Civitanova Marche. The jump in quality came in 1975, when the grandson of the founder, Roberto Botticelli, while maintaining the firm’s artisanal tradition, optimized its technological resources and began to use designers such as Michel Perry and Gianni Barbato. Its men’s and women’s collections are today under the Roberto Botticelli brand, a griffe which is distributed all over the world, from New Zealand to the U.S. Single-brand boutiques in Rome and Riccione have been joined by new single-brand shops in London and Madrid. In autumn 2000, the company launched a man-woman total look and a line called B-sport by Botticelli.
American brand of men’s, women’s, and children’s sportswear. It was established in 1910 with the launch of boxing trunks that were the first to use an elastic waistband. The idea belonged to a Mr. Golomb, and the success was such that other products could be added. Since 1988, the brand has been produced and distributed in Italy by A. Moda, a company belonging to Alessandro Bastagli, who also has licenses for the Neil Pryde and Gold’s Gym lines in Europe. In 1996, he created a company called Bavers in partnership with the Gianni Versace Group for licenses of leather accessories, children’s wear, sport lines, and men’s and women’s underwear.
The sports brand concludes an agreement with Tavil Associates of New York to produce a playtime line and a nighttime line for children and babies. The collection, launched in the middle of the following year, completes the clothing lines offered for the American market by the sports giant. BBC International obtains the license for casual shoes in the U.S. and Canada.
The Sports Authority gives the Vendor of the Year award to George Horowitz, the president of Everlast, for the brand’s excellent results in 2002.
Despite the increased number of licenses, the company ends the first quarter with a decline of 11.7%, to $12.3 million. In the U.S. and Canada there are more than 20,000 Everlast points-of-sale. Everlast products are distributed throughout the world under 20 different licenses.
A license agreement with Pac Paris, a world-class producer of perfumes, for the creation of a beauty line. Men’s and women’s fragrances, deodorants, and aftershaves are on the market by autumn.
Pseudonym of Carl Erickson (1891-1958), an American illustrator. His touch and his palette, in which one can see the heritage of the Expressionist painters and the Fauves, run counter to the precise and linear illustrative style of the 1920s. He was of Swedish origin. In 1914, after two years at the Academy of Art in Chicago, he moved to New York. He made his début in Vogue in 1916. He would become a pillar of the magazine for 30 years, along with René Bouet Willaumez and, later, René Bouché, working for a long time from Paris.
Official journal of the French fashion industry published between April 1916 and February 1924, along with the following supplements: Tailleur de Paris, Blouse, and Elegance du Soir. Its name and columns are taken from a monthly that was published between 1867 and 1871 and devoted to “contemporary fashions, litterature, fine arts, and the theater.”
World-wide leader in the manufacture of viscose thread. It is located in Germany and employs more than 2,000 people, with a European production of 25,000 tons of spun thread. It is a company that looks to the future, employing recyclable materials and modern techniques with complete respect for the environment. The raw material for Enka viscose is wood cellulose and through an elaborate production process it replicates the high quality of natural fiber. It is suitable for every kind of application in the textile industry, from fabrics to threads for knitwear and embroidery. Blended with other fibers such as polyamide and polyester, it acquires more body, adding volume and brilliance. An innovative and versatile material, it allows great creativity thanks to its range of wonderful colors and silky feel. Enka Sun is a thread perfected by Akzo Nobel, offering protection from damaging sun rays. Enka Moda also plays a role as a talent scout. Two years ago, in collaboration and with the sponsorship of the National Committee of Italian Fashion, an international research project called Enkamania was launched. It allows emerging young designers, selected by competition, to work with textiles and to use Enka viscose in their creations. Out of one hundred entrants, 21 are chosen as finalists, and 5 of them are offered the opportunity to present their first collection during Milano Collezioni Donna. At the end of the presentations, an award is given. In September 2002, the 5 finalists were Bless, Icarius, Ichiro Seta, Rohka, and Zac Posen. The jury was composed of Franca Sozzani (the president), Peter Lindbergh (a photographer), Jean-Paul Gaultier, Philip Treacy, Milla Yovovich, and Enrico Freidhof, with the participation of Donna Karan, Yamamoto, and Isabella Blow. The award, ex aequo, went to Ichiro Seta and Rohka.
Brand created by Giancarlo Ferrari (Trento, 1964) and Francesco Bonamano (Milan, 1966). Ferrari studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence, and Bonamano received a degree in architecture. Longtime friends with similar passions and tastes, at first they created jewellery and accessories for Marina Spadafora, Callaghan, Fiorucci, Phard, and Maska. They then expanded their activity to include bags and shoes, using unusual and original materials.
The bags designed by Bonamano and Ferrari are successfully exported to France, Austria, Japan, and the U.S.
Among the most successful models are the dog-shaped handbag in rabbit hair in black, pink, and white and the fish-shaped bag in soft metallic leather in sky blue, light blue, and fuchsia.