Marc (1926). French designer. His given name is Roger Maurice Louis Bohan. Born in Paris, he graduated from high school and then, encouraged by his mother, a milliner, he enrolled in a design course in order to follow an evident interest in fashion. Not yet 20, he was hired by Robert Piguet, and in his atelier he met a young talent, Christian Dior. He remained there four years, then moved on to Molineux and, in 1954, to Patou, who gave him responsibility for the haute couture Collection. But it was the meeting with Dior, who then became a friend, which would influence his career. One year after the death of the man who invented the New Look, he was given the artistic direction of Christian Dior London. It was 1958. Three years later, in 1961, he was back in Paris. This time it was to direct the tailor shop on Avenue Montaigne and to take the place of Dior’s favorite assistant, Yves Saint-Laurent, who the designer had designated as his successor but who had been called up to serve with the army in Algeria. It was a fortunate return: his first Collection, called Slim Look, was immediately successful. The line was extended like a pencil sketch, and made lovely. The Collection consisted mainly of suits with tight skirts with the option of an elegant parka. He renewed himself from season to season, designing, inventing, creating, following the steps of his master, and the allure of tradition. In 1966 he brought the style of Dr. Zhivago to the runway: long fur-trimmed greatcoats worn with maxi dresses that fell to the boots. Among his clientele were members of the jet set. In 1967 magazines published photos of Farah Dibah wearing his creations on the occasion of her marriage to the Shah of Iran and her coronation as empress. Princess Grace of Monaco and Princess Alexandra of Yugoslavia, also invited to the royal wedding, wore clothes by Bohan-Dior. More than 100 haute couture garments are created twice a year, with particular attention to evening dresses, as a gentleman likes to see them: ladies of divine elegance, characters in a wide-awake dream. Clothes for every high society event, precious, rich, with big knots draped on a taffeta sheath dress, often creating a puffed effect at the back. And more and more bows resting on a triumph of embroidery, with very refined workmanship in an authentic exercise in luxury. Very aware of color, he uses them all, with a preference for red and black. He doesn’t care for green, but doesn’t eliminate it entirely. By now, his ideas are part of the collective memory: balaclavas in leopard, little ostrich-trimmed foulards that lend importance to a sober outfit, stockings that have the same patterns as sweaters. Through the accessories he allowed Dior’s style to become accessible to everyone. He was famous for his jewels: pins and brooches made of strass&b;, or paste glass, meant for important evenings. A diligent worker, he pays attention to everything: Miss Dior’s prêt-à-porter, launched in 1967 by his assistant Philippe Guibourge, for a young clientele; the men’s Collection, designed by Bohan himself in 1970; and furs, designed by Frédéric Castet. The white ermine coat that he created for Sophia Loren, with the imprint of her lips on the back, will not be easily forgotten. The infinite licenses, the numberless fragrances, the make-up: Made by Dior conquered the world. Then, in 1989, came the changing of the guard: after some 30 years of honorable service, he left the scene. Gianfranco Ferré was now in charge.
Having left Dior, the 63 year-old designer is hired by Hartnell. The house was known as the favorite of the British aristocracy, but closed down for good in 1992.