GIANFRANCO FERRÉ

Gianfranco Ferré, the “Architect of Fashion”, is an Italian designer. In 1978, together with Mattioli, he established Gianfranco Ferré S.p.a.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. The Start of His Career
  3. Gianfranco Ferré S.p.a
  4. Creative Director of Dior
  5. Manufacturing
  6. Gianfranco Ferré Acquired by It Holding
  7. Collections
  8. Brand Development
    1. Store Openings
    2. Glasses
    3. Awards
  9. Brand Challenges 
  10. Gianfranco Ferré Closes
  11. Exhibition

The Origin

Gianfranco Ferre Dressing Model 1982
Gianfranco Ferré Dressing Model in 1982

Gianfranco Ferré is an Italian designer who was born in 1944. He is called an “Architect of Fashion” because he graduated from the Polytechnic of Milan in 1969, but also because he worked, as did Krizia, Missoni, and Armani, a style so close to industrial design, which is a characteristic of Italian prêt-à-porter.

“I’m very proud of my education as an architect, of the analytic and logical method which teaches one how to be creative, but I also try not to fall into the trap of the overly-structured or of abstract simplification”, Gianfranco says.

He has always been proud of his provincial and middle-class origins. Born in Legnano, a small town in hard-working Lombardy, to a family of small industrialists, he has never cut himself off from his roots. When he’s not traveling around the world, he returns every night to his father’s house, a small villa from the early 1900s. The villa is a mirror of his life and personality, and the place where he stores his memories and collections, including paintings of contemporary art and singular objects found during his travels, often in local antique markets, such as tie pins, which have become his trademark.

Gianfranco Ferre Sailor Glam Shirt SS 1982 Silk Organza Honeycomb Patterned Cotton Pique
Sailor Glam Shirt SS 1982 Silk Organza Honeycomb Patterned Cotton Pique. Photographed by Luca Stoppini

He has also been called the “Gran Lombardo,” or “the Big Man from Lombardy,” due to his powerful physique, and he is flattered by this because it expresses his perseverance, his capacity for work, and also his pleasure in daily routines and his taste for the things that he turns into fashion. These materials are the source of his best intuitions, such as the white shirt, a basic element of a man’s wardrobe, that was transformed into an instrument of seduction, female power, and pleasure. It is also seen in his choice of fabrics, in the different cuts (floating like a sail in the wind, shaped to the body, or even in a stretch and wafer-thin fabric), and in his invitation to a richer and more sophisticated expressiveness in the design of cuffs and collars.

The Start of his Career

Gianfranco Ferre 1990
Gianfranco Ferré 1990

His attention to refined, cultivated and often opulent details began long ago, with his first work experiences and his stays in India, which were fundamental to his education. He started his career designing belts and jewellery and worked with Albini in the early 1970s. At that time, he began life as a commuter, and this was the rhythm of his university years, with a continued back-and-forth between Legnano and Milan. He would leave at dawn for Genoa by train, in order to design, starting in 1972, for the raincoat company Sangiorgio. This taught him the rules of industrial manufacturing. On the train, he would meet the two people most important to him in his career: Rita Airaghi, from Legnano, a distant cousin with a degree in Italian literature and medieval Latin, who would become his alter ego; and Franco Mattioli, a clothing entrepreneur from Bologna who would be his business partner for 25 years, from 1974 to 1999.

Gianfranco Ferré S.p.a.

Gianfranco Ferre FW 87 Photographed by Herb Ritts
Fall/Winter 87 Photographed by Herb Ritts

In 1978, together with Mattioli, he established Gianfranco Ferré S.p.a.. That year he also presented his first women’s prêt-à-porter collection under his own name, at the Grand Hotel Principe di Savoia in Milan, and later made his début with a men’s collection in 1982. It was an international success and the start of a brilliant career. “Ferré has kept astonishing us for 20 years”, the American journalist Dawn Mello wrote in Vogue Italy in October 1998.

“His début collection showed the first minimalist style: clean, simple lines for a refined sportswear. As Dior’s couturier, he developed a rich and voluptuous style that was admired for its elegance and spectacular nature. Today he enters the new millennium with a strong and specific vision that is deeply connected to his architectural education.”

Creative Director of Dior

Much discussed, especially in chauvinistic terms, was his selection in 1989 by Bernard Arnault, the leader of the LVMH group, to take the place of Marc Bohan as artistic director of Dior.

Gianfranco Ferre Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 96 Show in France
Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 96 Show in France

By 1986, Ferré had made his début on the Italian high fashion runways in Rome, showing his tailoring ability through the cut and in the line of his clothes, in a dream-like vision of dressing and the wise use of materials, even unusual ones, borrowed from design, like straw from Vienna.

“The Paris experience was really unique and was intended to restore haute couture and the house of Dior to their proper roles”, the designer said in a 1997 interview with Panorama, speaking about his consensual divorce from the French Maison. “After eight years it was time to devote myself to my own company, also because I felt a growing sense of expectation on the part of the public that likes my style. Through this adventure, I have realized that certain things belong just to me. Because, after all, I did create some milestones in fashion, for example the use of the nude in 1988, nylon, and see-throughs”.

Manufacturing

Once back at his company full time, in his studio on via della Spiga in Milan, Ferré followed from up close the work on his new headquarters in the former Gondrand building on via Pontaccio, near the Brera. It was 78,000 square feet and opened in October 1998, showing the new face of the Ferré brand, with eight lines of clothing and accessories.

Gianfranco Ferre Vogue Sep 1991 AD Featuring Aly Dunne Photographed by Gianpaolo Barbieri
Vogue Sep 1991 AD Featuring Aly Dunne Photographed by Gianpaolo Barbieri

The turnover in 1997 was 1,400 billion liras, of which 75% was exported. Of that, 40% went to the U.S. and Japan. The firm has more than 400 stores for fashions and accessories, including proprietary shops and franchises. There is a license for perfumes with Diana de Silva. In 1997, the designer strengthened his relationship with his manufacturing partners, including Itierre from Isernia, a producer and distributor of jeans and sportswear, and the Marzotto group. He had been working with Marzotto since 1987, designing the G.F. Studio and GFF men’s and women’s collections.

Since 1987, he has designed fur collections produced and distributed by Mondialpelli. Furs and leather are among the materials that interest him the most. In 1995, Ferré was the subject of a biography written by the journalist Edgarda Ferri and published by Longanesi.

Gianfranco Ferré at Ferré's Fall/Winter 1996 Collection in Milan
Gianfranco Ferré at Ferré’s Fall/Winter 1996 Collection in Milan

The bustier with small bone inlays sewn with raffia became a cult fashion, as did silk that wrapped the figure and became a sort of asymmetric tunic, a light cloth with soft draping; and cloth cut in small superimposed rectangles for unique models which seemed to take off.

In October 2001 he arrives in Miami and choose to open his boutique in the prestigious neighborhood of Bal Harbour Shops, on the other side of Miami Beach. Opened in 1965, this architectural complex has the most famous haute couture boutiques.

Gianfranco Ferré Acquired by IT Holding

 In 2002 It Holding, a company owned by the Molise entrepreneur Tonino Perna, acquires 90% of Gianfranco Ferré S.p.a. The transaction is to be completed within the month of June for a sum of €161.7 million. Ferré has 10% of the shares and the position of President. During this time, “Look to the future,” is the motto of the new GF Ferré collection for young people. It takes the place of the GFF and Ferré Jeans brands, and makes its début at Milano Moda Uomo in June 2002. Inspired by urban life, it is completed with a line of accessories (bags, eyeglasses, shoes, and beachwear). The clothing is manufactured by Itierre, the accessories by other firms belonging to the It Holding group owned by Tonino Perna.

 

Gianfranco Ferre 2002 Fall/Winter Collection
2002 Fall/Winter Collection

Also, Ferré’s design met Allison’s technology. The new model of eyeglasses were named Pure Magnesium because they were made from 92% pure magnesium. Very light, non-allergic, and resistant to atmospheric agents, it is produced in four versions.

By the end of 2002 Ferré and It Holding agree to bring all licenses within the group. This decision should raise the turnover by 50%. Ferré produced only the first line in house, the others were manufactured on license. At the expiration of the contracts, the lines produced by Marzotto (men’s and women’s clothing) go to ITC (Bologna), the eyewear to Allison (Padua), the perfumes to ITF (Lodi), the shoes, bags, and leather accessories to PAF (a new company near Florence which for the men’s line at first relies on Mantelassi), and Jeans Couture to Itierre (Isernia). For men’s clothing, in cooperation with Saint Andrew’s (Cantarelli Group) the “custom made” program is relaunched.

Collections

Gianfranco Ferre 2002 AD
Gianfranco Ferre 2002 AD

The Winter 2002-2003 collection was unforgettable and incredible. Full of the weaving motif shown in: ermine, chinchilla, cashmere, even organza and taffetas, all knitted using ancient methods of sock manufacture. Gianfranco was inspired by the world of emotions, sensations for a look that is enlivened by the exchange of different and far off cultures. He is an explorer of a very wide cultural and costume heritage, and then his willingness, a sophisticated divertissement, to pick an era to dress.

This is how, for Winter 2003-2004, he proposed the Bonaparte “citizen”. The collection featured dresses which looked like columns, with very uplifted breasts that emphasized the neckline à la Pauline Borghese, alternating with very luxurious superstar punk stud jackets, in a waterfall of small chains and delicate cameos. The looks were a mixture of ancient and at the same time modern preciousness, which matched precise forms and eccentric designs. Even in accessories, the bags, in pony skin and snake skin, had a scepter-shaped handle made of real silver.

Gianfranco Ferre 2004 Fall/Winter Collection
2004 Fall/Winter Collection

For men, Ferré prefers the more classic typologies of urban dressing, with the ease of a casual spirit. His griffe is at the center of global plans to offer a new, complete identity, worked out in the Milan headquarters with great attention to the different production and distribution needs of It Holding. In June 2002 Gianfranco Ferré donated more than 32 models chosen from among the most representative of this career to the Costume Gallery of Palazzo Pitti. Also, the new GF line for children, produced by Valtib, was released.

Brand Development

Store Openings

Gianfranco Ferre Store at London
Gianfranco Ferre Store at London

In January 2003, with the new year, an intense 2-year program of new shops and the renovation of already-existing shops is put into effect. The first is in Paris, at Avenue Montaigne 51, and celebrated by the presentation of a collection at the Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume. Later, in February, the most important shop, the one in Milan on via Sant’Andrea, is reopened, completely renovated. The architect Ferré personally follows the work. Enlarged to 5,000 square feet on two levels, it has men’s and women’s collections in two symmetrical areas near the entrance to the building, which was once the site of Biki’s atelier. On the left is the men’s space, on the right the women’s, linked by a common hall. The real novelty is the creation, together with E’Spa, of another attraction: the refined Spa at Gianfranco Ferré, an oasis of relaxation dedicated to fitness and well-being.

Glasses

In April 2003 the design of eyeglasses continues after magnesium, which as of now is made of 18 carat gold, combined and fused with titanium. A high-tech essential, with daylight lenses, and very precious. A year later, the company presents the new young fragrances GF Ferré Lei and GF Ferré Lui in Paris.

Awards

Gianfranco Ferre Receiving Awards 2004
Gianfranco Ferre Receiving Awards 2004

In September 2004  receives a career award, the “Chi è Chi del Giornalismo e della Moda” (‘Who’s Who of Journalism and Fashion’), and an acknowledgment from the Region of Lombardy as the “fashion creator who has developed a style similar to design and industrial planning, turning personal talent into an entrepreneurial reality”. A year later in February 2005, during a gala at La Scala in Milan, he received the “Longobard Seal,” conferred on people from Lombardy who “in their respective fields have contributed to enrich the cultural, civil, and artistic heritage of the region”.

In March 2005 Gianfranco Ferré designed new uniforms for Korean Air and are presented in Seoul. The uniforms are blue for pilots and black for ground personnel, made lighter with beige and sea-blue green and light blue celadon. Also at this time, at the request of Fashion in Motion, he presented 60 pieces during a show at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Brand Challenges

Gianfranco Ferré Fall/Winter 2009
Gianfranco Ferré Fall/Winter 2009

The great designer died on June 17, 2007 and the whole world of fashion was in mourning. On January 16, 2008, Lars Nilsson became creative director of the Ferré fashion house. He left his position after a few months. Then, on September 23, 2008, two young talented designers, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, known as the creators of 6267 label and winners of the Who’s on next competition in 2005, inherited the artistic direction of the Maison Ferré.

In 2009 the company Gianfranco Ferré enters into a crisis, at the same time as Itierre, the company to which Ferré delegated the manufacturing. A year later, the commissioners undertook a request for the cancellation of the lease for the headquarter in via Pontaccio, Milan.

In 2010, on the occasion of the presentation of the spring-summer collection, the latest innovation is the launch of a complete line of jewelry called Jewellery Collection.

Gianfranco Ferré Closes

On 11 March 2011, Gianfranco Ferré was sold by IT Holding Group to the Paris Group of Dubai. The new company immediately began to globally restructure the brand, and replaced many of the designers. In early 2014, Ferré announced the permanent closure of any activities in Italy. The brand is not sold, but kept and not used by the properties.

Exhibition

Gianfranco Ferre White Shirt Exhibition 2014
White Shirt Exhibition in Phoenix 2014

To Gianfranco, the white shirt was more than just a classic. During his career, he deconstructed and reconstructed its basic elements, infusing them with unique details. The Gianfranco Ferré Foundation wanted to highlight this part of Gianfranco’s career because it represented his brand identity. So, on November 4, 2015 the exhibition “The White Shirt According to Me. Gianfranco Ferré” was debuted at The Phoenix Art Museum. It was produced and designed by the Gianfranco Ferré Foundation in Milan and by the Prato Textile Museum. The exhibition showcased Ferré’s most significant white shirts, technical designs, photographs and videos from the archives of the Gianfranco Ferré Foundation.

Gianfranco Ferre Phoenix Classic Glamour White Shirt
The Phoenix Classic Glamour White Shirt

ROBERTO CAVALLI

Roberto Cavalli is an Italian fashion designer born in 1940. He is known for exotic prints and for creating the sand-blasted look for jeans.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. Cavalli Style
  3. Brand Development
    1. 2001 Turnover
    2. Fall/Winter 2002 Mens Collection
    3. Fall/Winter 2002 Womens Collection
    4. Roberto Cavalli Kids Collection
    5. Cavalli Watches
    6. Store Openings in US
  4. Cavalli Events
  5. 40th Anniversary
  6. Clessidra SGR Acquired Roberto Cavalli
  7. Current Situation

The Origin

Roberto Cavalli was born in 1940 and is an Italian designer. Referred to as “an artist of fashion,” perhaps to remember his grandfather who was an illustrious painter, one of the Macchiaioli, and the creator of paintings on display at the Uffizi in Florence, his hometown.

Designer Roberto Cavalli With His Models
Designer Roberto Cavalli With His Models

He attended the Academy of Fine Arts and soon became interested in the relationship between fashion and painting.  He investigated various materials in his own print shop, and at the same time experimenting with new technologies. In the 1960s he patented a revolutionary process for printing on leather then he debuted these techniques in Paris, and immediately was recognized by Hermès and Pierre Cardin. At age 32, he presented his first namesake collection at the Salon for Prêt-à-Porter in Paris.

Then, in 1972 he made his début at Palazzo Pitti with his patchworks, which are by now considered a classic of his style, and which are especially typical of his glamorous jeans. Also at this time he opened his first boutique in Saint Tropez. In 1980, Roberto Cavalli married Eva Düringer.  He owns an important art Collection with paintings from the 1400s and 1600s and has a fondness for the painters of Siena. He also likes purebreds.

Cavalli Style

Roberto Cavalli Style
Roberto Cavalli Style

The Cavalli woman has a well-defined silhouette. the Cavalli clothes are made to caresses the body, wrap it, and imprison it with often overlapping colored fabrics in fantastic patterns.

Nature is a source of inspiration for Roberto Cavalli. This includes animal skins, sequins in the shape of fish scales, waves that lose themselves in the transparencies of the fabric. The impact of his collections have always been very strong with ferocious wild beasts, angels and demons that peep out from a jacket or from trousers. Feline and witty women find their personality in Cavalli’s style, instinctual and exhibitionist.

Every style is breathtaking. For example, shorts and corsets for a Scarlet O’Hara updated to the year 2000, contoured blazers in prints of leopard, crocodile or lynx, and snake skin as a substitute for spotted patterns of every sort. Then the black of the youth gangs, from the jacket of a wild Marlon Brando to punks and heavy metal lovers. His unmistakable, elegant jackets are made out of very soft deer skin. Something lunar for his micro galactic skirts, and again baroque-patterned jeans.

Anna Falchi and Claudia Koll played the winning couple in a prêt-à-porter presentation in Milan in 1995. The presentation was full of sophisticated elegance with a touch of transgression. Stretch became ultra stretch: a master of leather, he treats it like a canvas on which to paint and the body seems tattooed.

Brand Development

Roberto Cavalli Boutique Milano
Roberto Cavalli Boutique Milano

The first single-brand boutique opened in Venice in 1996. The brand, Just Cavalli, launched in 2000 with a men’s and womenswear collection, accessories, eyewear, watches, jewelry, perfumes, underwear, and beachwear.

At this time, his brand is distributed in more than 30 countries, directly from the Milan, New York, and Düsseldorf’ showrooms. The home market leads with 35% of the turnover (Europe 25%, Asia 20%). The Russian market is expanding and the U.S. market has already been conquered, with his styles in the windows of the most important department stores.  The principal line is gradually supported by CJ Cavalli Jeans, a men’s line, a line of eyeglasses produced by Marcolin, and accessories for men and women. The most recent line is women’s underwear. His wife, Eva Duringer, who works with him professionally, was Miss Universe.

In October 2000, at Milano Collezioni, an entire day is dedicated to Cavalli. After the Collection is presented in the morning, the afternoon sees the opening of his first boutique in Milan, on via della Spiga. A year later, the the company decides the men’s shoe line will be produced and distributed for the next five years by Roberto Botticelli. The Fall/Winter 2001-2002 Collection is inspired by the Old West, with loafers, ankle boots and, above all, cowboy boots with embroidered details.

In March 2001 Cavalli designs two new lines for the watches produced by Sector. For his beachwear he uses the eclectic and comfortable Sensitive fabric made by Eurojersey, personalizing it with his celebrated prints. Later in July, to celebrate his début in Great Britain, Eva and Roberto Cavalli welcome their guests in a Berber tent, thus bringing a piece of Africa to Momo, the historic club in the West End. Among black-and-white striped carpets and copper trays, he presents the new eyeglass Collection, which is produced and distributed by Marcolin.

2001 Turnover

The turnover for 2001 was expected to be 280 billion liras, but by the end of the year the new estimate is 300 to 350 billion liras. The opening of the next single-brand shops is already planned. After Milan, Rome, Jeddah, Paris, New York, and Venice, Cavalli opens a new boutique in Florence in a prestigious location, the ancient Palazzo Viviani della Robbia, with nine large windows on via Tornabuoni. The historic and renovated Caffè Giacosa is connected to the boutique, but it also has independent access. At this point, Cavalli is aiming above all at the “new” markets of Hong Kong, Seoul, Taipei, and Moscow.

Fall/Winter 2002 Men’s Collection

Roberto Cavalli 2002 Fall/Winter Menswear
2002 Fall/Winter Menswear

In January 2002 the new men’s Collection for Fall/Winter 2002-2003 is refined, precious and extravagant. It renewed the style of men’s fashion with an irony of excess and fantasy with inspiration drawn from Victorian England. The Collection is presented in Florence at Palazzo Vecchio. The exhibition More and More More and More — The Looks Roberto Cavalli Wants for You, opened. The exhibition was organized by Italo Rota is full of excess, provocation, color, and fun.

In February 2002 the exhibition Men in Skirts at the Dress Gallery of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London displayed work by Cavalli and other designers. Organized with the purpose of celebrating the designers who turned the skirt into a man’s garment, the exhibit is divided into five themes: historical styles, the kilt, exoticism, styles vs. culture, and futuristic styles. Roberto Cavalli finds his natural place in the exoticism section where he shows a linen caftan with animal-tribal prints.

Fall/Winter 2002 Women’s Collection

Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2002 Collection
Fall/Winter 2002 Collection

The Fall/Winter 2002-2003 womenswear collection was an amusing and lively presentation with a touch of self-irony that proposes pieces such as a black tailored suit of Breitschwanz, sophisticated decorated furs, patent-leather overcoats for a cat-woman and calf-length dresses in delicate flower-patterned muslin with long sleeves. Cindy Crawford wore a tight sheath dress in Persian scarlet lamb, a herringbone-patterned fur, and, finally, a long white satin dress embroidered with panther- and tiger-shaped sequins, together with a trench coat in very bright and light snake skin. Something very unusual was a loom-manufactured Scottish fabric in strong colors that was used for tailored suits that had the skirt tight on the hips and then dropped in a flare, and for the tiny jackets worn with jeans. The fabric was also worked in patterned cloths embroidered with silver thread.

In May 2002 for the 85th Giro d’Italia, Cavalli designed the uniforms for Mario Cipollini and his team, in black and white stripes, of course.

Roberto Cavalli Kids Collection

Roberto Cavalli Kids Line 2015
Kids Line 2015

In 2002 Roberto Cavalli Angels, the Collection produced and distributed by Simonetta, is presented at Pitti Bimbo, for Spring-Summer 2003. There are light leather jackets, snake skin patterned jackets, chalk stripe jeans, and oversized overalls in pre-washed fabric. The suede boots on the feet as those of the Navajos, and around the waist are colored raffia belts with plastic beads and feathers. Roberto Cavalli Devils is a new line dedicated to children and kids from 4 to 14 years. It supports Roberto Cavalla Angels, the Collection for little girls and teenagers produced and distributed by Simonetta, who is to manage the new brand as well.

In July 2002 the youth line, Just Cavalli, opened a boutique in Rome, in Piazza di Spagna, of the first boutique dedicated to the youth line Just Cavalli. Roberto Cavalli and Ittierre (It Holding Group) renew, three years in advance, the license for the Just Cavalli line, extending it to 2010.

Cavalli watches

Roberto Cavalli Watches
Roberto Cavalli Watches

In the first six months of the year, the watch line designed for Sector has a turnover of €3.9 million, growing 136%. The reopening of the Torre Branca, ex Littorio, in Milan takes place in October. At the foot of the tower is the Just Cavalli Café, with a counter designed by Ron Arad. Cavalli receives the award The Provocateurs, given to “those who dare.” The ceremony takes place at Cipriani New York, on the occasion of the 19th edition of the Night of Stars, organized by Fashion Group International.

In 2003 black-and-white striped dishes, gold rimmed glasses, and animal-patterned cushions for the house designed by Cavalli. Also, in the main collection the style is a mix between a cowboy and a bikerman presented by Cavalli at Milano Moda Uomo.

Store Openings in US

In April 2003 the brands fourth boutique in the US, in Coral Gables, Florida, called More More and More By Roberto Cavalli is opened. All his Collections, with the exception of the first line, can be found there, including the children’s, accessories, and household lines. The other American boutiques are in New York, on Madison Avenue; in Bel Harbor, Florida; and in Las Vegas.

At this time, the brand opened a new boutique in Porto Cervo, Sardinia. Then, at number 15 in the Tretyakovskiy Passage in Moscow, of the first single-brand Roberto Cavalli boutique in Russia.

Cavalli Events

In April 2004 Cavalli hosts Le Cirque du Soleil in Milan and organized an evening for the première of the extraordinary show Saltimbanco. The designer, with the creative help of Ettore Scola, transforms a warehouse into an enchanted paradise.

Later in December, Cavalli is back in New York to host the most exclusive evening of the year on the occasion of the exhibition organized by the Fashion Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, entitled Wild fashion Untamed. To celebrate the event, the designer organized an exclusive evening: cocktails and an exhibition preview followed by a dinner for 300 selected international guests.

Roberto Cavalli Wild Fashion Untamed
Wild Fashion Untamed Event

In January 2005, Just Cavalli opened their first single-brand store in Milan. It was an innovative project and the result of collaboration between Roberto Cavalli and Italo Rota for a real “fantasy store.” Later this year, Roberto Cavalli with his friend Dino De Laurentiis, together launched the film, The Decameron, a film directed by David Leland, Cavalli designs the costumes. The cast includes: Hayden Christensen, Mischa Barton, and Tim Roth. Roberto Cavalli also collaborated with Tre Italia, the first branded video cell phone. The project includes a donation to the Veronesi Foundation for their cancer research.

Roberto Cavalli Just Cavalli Club
Just Cavalli Club

Roberto Cavalli teamed up with Pragma Group in 2009 and opened its first nightclub, Just Cavalli, in Florence. The location used to be a 15th century church. Soon, Just Cavalli club opened in Milan. This business venture also made a 5-year plan to open 3 more Cavalli Clubs and 15 Cavalli cafes.

40th Anniversary

Roberto Cavalli 40th Anniversary Event
Roberto Cavalli 40th Anniversary Event

2010 marked the 40th anniversary of Roberto Cavalli. On September 29th, the brand hosted an anniversary gala at Ecole National Superieure des Beaux Arts, plenty of celebrities attended the celebration party include Naomi Campbell, Taylor Swift, Leona Lewis, Heidi Klum. Some of Cavalli’s signature designs were also displayed at the gallery of Ecole National Superieure des Beaux Arts. Celebration continues at Milan Fashion Week later, where Roberto Cavalli presented its spring/summer 2011 collection at spectacular 19th-century marble Arco Della Pace.

In 2011 Roberto Cavalli signed a five-year licensing deal with Compagnia delle Pelli for launch a new “CLASS Roberto Cavalli” accessories line. Start to offer both men’s and women’s bags and small leather goods collections. A year later, with their india partner Infinite Luxury Brands, Roberto Cavalli launched its first store in India and a brand new Cavalli Cafe in New Delhi.

Creative Directors

In 2013 Yvan Mispelaere, the former chief designer from DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, was named Roberto Cavalli’s first design director. He unveiled his first collection for Fall/Winter 14. A year later, Roberto Cavalli, before the Just Cavalli Women’s Fall/Winter fashion show, he exclaimed that he refuses to engage with celebrities to promote his brand, and encouraged the fashion world to turn its back to celebrity endorsements.

Fall/Winter 2014 Collection By Yvan Mispelaere
Fall/Winter 2014 Collection By Yvan Mispelaere

In March 2015 Peter Dundas was pointed as new creative director of Roberto Cavalli. This Norwegian-American designer worked as the former creative director of Emilio Pucci,  and in fact, he used to work with Roberto Cavalli very closely when Roberto Cavalli  was relaunching his no-holds-barred brand between 2002 and 2005.

Fall/Winter 2016 Collection By Peter Dundas
Fall/Winter 2016 Collection By Peter Dundas

In January 2016 Peter Dundas presented his first collection and returns to the original Florence fashion house style. He focuses his attention on sensuality, femininity and coolness. This return underlines the ability of the stylist to mix day and night, elegance and beauty but also fierceness. Accessories are composed by boots and earrings with charms.

Clessidra SGR Acquired Roberto Cavalli

One month later, private-equity firm Clessidra SGR acquired 90% of the Italian fashion house. In 2016 February,  Roberto Cavalli became the first designer brands to open up a store in Iran. Then, Renato Semerari left the Italian fashion group because of  strategic differences, while Gian Giacomo Ferraris was named the new Chief Executive Officer of the company. Later in October, Peter Dundas departs from the label after only one year.

Meanwhile, Gian Giacomo Ferraris announced a comprehensive reorganization of the company, including store closures, severe cuts to global headcount, nearly 30% positions were eliminated, Milan offices were closed, and all functions moved to Florence. Roberto Cavalli employees took action immediately after the dramatic restructure plan and conducted an eight-hour strike.

Current Situation

Roberto Cavalli SS 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 Collection

In May 2017 Roberto Cavalli brand welcomed its new creative director, British-born designer Paul Surridge. Surridge graduated from Central Saint Martins and has experience working under Calvin Klein, Burberry, and Jil Sander. Paul Surridge displayed his first women’s SS18 collection during Milan Fashion Week.

MOSCHINO

Moschino is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino. Known as the enfant terrible of fashion due to its unconventional ways.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. Moschino Style
  3. Cheap & Chic
  4. Exhibition: Enfant Terrible
  5. Moschino Acquire by Ferretti Group
  6. Collections
  7. Brand Development
    1. Watches
    2. Official Partners
  8. Supporting Charity
  9. Jeremy Scott
  10. Current Situation

The Origin

Franco Moschino (1950-1994) was an iconoclastic designer who never wanted to be known as such. He arrived at the top by overturning all the rules: of good taste, style, advertising, presentations, and runway shows. The industry called Moschino the enfant terrible of Italian fashion, which means a person who behaves in an unconventional or controversial way.

Franco Moschino
Franco Moschino

Franco Moschino studied Fine Arts at the Accademia di Brera in Milan. He planned to be a painter, but his role as an illustrator for Versace in 1971 set him on the fashion road. In 1977 he was fashion designer for the historic Italian label Cadette, where he honed his skills and developed his own precise stylistic language.

Moschino Style

Moschino Stop the Fashion System Collection
Stop the Fashion System Collection

In 1983 he started his own label, with an explosive mix of paradoxes, challenges, and elegance which criticized and mocked the excesses of the fashion system and the paroxysmal society which was the image of the 1980s. The company founded by Franco Moschino, Moonshadow S.r.l., debuted with its first collection, which was ironic, surreal, ingenious, perverse, and totally represented Moschino’s style. Ironically, his style declared “stop the fashion system,” but its success was because of that system. A theorist of freedom and improvisation, he claimed not to be an inventor, but a “restaurant trying to provide those well-cooked traditional dishes which were invented by unknown cooks.”

Moschino Fall/Winter 1988 Campaign
Fall/Winter 1988 Campaign

His work did indeed revisit all the aesthetics of the century, adopting and reworking them with a hybrid injection of humor. He replaced the buttons of Chanel-style suits with windmills, and embroidered black sheath dresses with their price. He made skirts out of ties, jackets with fried eggs on the pockets, T-shirts emblazoned “Moschifo” (schifo means “disgusting” in Italian), dressed printed with the words “no dress no stress,” tops with trompe-l’oeil breasts.

Moschino Patches Blazer 1990
Patches Blazer 1990

He continued to break the rules with multiple sleeve shirts, multicolored blazers, waistcoats printed with cartoons, suits with appliquéd symbols of geese, Andalusian skirts made out of tartan, and toreador-style evening jackets. His personal style, despite being unpredictable and striking, was in fact based on classic, well-made shapes, perfectly cut and with seductive details which proved attractive to all markets.

Cheap & Chic

Moschino 1987 Fashion Show
1987 Fashion Show

The first line to be launched was Moschino Couture, and soon after came Cheap & Chic, Donna and Uomo, Moschino Jeans, lingerie, swimwear, bags, scarves, jewelry, perfume, all of which broke with fashion clichés. Publications, advertisements, and runway shows were similarly full of surprises. He would send pairs of knickers to actresses instead of invitations, he made his models go down the runway on their knees, he appeared in his own adverts in disguise, and created a fake Cardinal to promote his range of jeans.

Moschino Cheap & Chic Fragrance
Cheap & Chic Fragrance

Moschino created a scent for men with a two-headed bottle, and his women’s fragrance was provided with a drinking straw. He published Dadaist catalogues and created every kind of provocative entertainment imaginable, saying

“There is no creativity without chaos. The Moschino concept is based on complete freedom of choice. There are no rules. You wear whatever color you want, and if you still like what you were wearing last year, you can wear it this year, and next year if you want.”

All of this of course rang a strange note in a period where prêt-à-porter ruled, and labels dictated fashion.

The Exhibition: Enfant Terrible

Moschino 1999 AD Campaign
1999 AD Campaign

In 1993 the show Ten Years of Chaos was released at the Permanente di Milano. It was a journey through thousands of Moschino’s creative anomalies, culminated in an exhibition of paintings where the designer revealed to the public for the first time his original persona, that of a painter. The exhibition was held at the end of 10 years of the life and work of this enfant terrible of Italian fashion, who in this short period had left an indelible mark on the world which he so wanted to challenge, becoming himself a cult figure, and obtaining cult status for his clothes.

Moschino Acquired by Ferretti Group

Moschino passed away on September 1994 from AIDs. His staff, under the leadership of his closest collaborator, Rossella Jardini, have continued his work and succeeded in the miracle of consolidating the success of the brand. In 1995, the city of Florence granted Franco Moschino the Pitti Immagine Award. Later, in June 1999, for the first collection of Moschino Life, presented a new version of the famous “survival jacket”, designed in 1991. Later in Fall, the brand was taken over by the Ferretti Group. In the following years, many exhibitions took place, always praising Franco and his professional life. In March 2001 the brand presented a chronological collection of images of the windows designed by the charismatic “monellaccio” (rascal). Two years later, during summer, some paintings that Franco Moschino made in 1989 were exhibited for the first time in Rome.

Collections

In 2002 the brand released the memorable “On the road” men’s collection, combining vintage pieces with sports and formalwear. This was a paradoxical look, covering every possibility, and contradicted everything with which we were familiar. The collection was ingeniously invented; the disorder was delightful. The same approach was taken for the womenswear collections in the cheeky 2003-2004 fall/winter show, which saw a complete mechanic’s overall decorated with frills, and a necklace made out of a metal spring-catch.

Moschino Fall/Winter 2003 Collection
Fall/Winter 2003 Collection

Prêt-à-jouer will always be the way for Moschino. The range continues to produce the thousand anomalies which continue, as in the past, to turn some items into genuine status symbols. Irony and unbridled fantasy go hand-in-hand, particularly in the Cheap & Chic diffusion line. One style, many styles, for those with more enthusiasm than money. Fashion as the art of putting an outfit together in total freedom. Blazers with no buttons which fasten with a safety-pin, or sprinkles of sequins on patched pants.

Brand Development

Later in May the company entered a joint venture with Bluebell Far East (49.9%), Moschino (50.1%) created Moschino Far East, to aid distribution in the Far Eastern market, including Japan. Sales of €70 million were envisaged by 2006. This is an agreement that seals the long collaboration between these two businesses: Bluebell has been distributor for Moschino in the East since 1989, apart from in Japan, where distribution has been managed until now by Sanki Shoji.

Moschino 2001 SS CampaignMame Fashion Dictionary: Moschino 2001 SS Campaign
2001 Spring/Summer Campaign

Then in July, they signed a licensing contract with Sector to produce a collection of watches under the name of Moschino. The Sector Group, with 15 production partners worldwide, had 150 employees and sales of around €90 million in 2001. It was responsible for around 14% of watchmaking in Italy.

In 2002 the label celebrated its 20th birthday. The first Parisian store (with seven windows) was opened at 32 Rue de Grenelle, in the 7th arrondissement, and a shop was opened in central Moscow, in the Petrovsky Passage Mall. The Moschino brand has a distribution network of 24 dedicated stores, and 31 franchises in department stores. Shares in Moschino Spa are held 70% by Aeffe and 30% by Sportswear International, and in 2001 sales equaled €285 million.

Watches

In July 2003 they launched a store in the Rome full of the new Moschino watches, the heart-shaped “Time 4 love” and “Time 4 Peace.” Each has charms representing symbols of peace, love, a lucky horn, and the initial “M” of the late designer. “I love 4 ways” has a linked chain, inspired by old pocket watches. “I love Moschino” has a leather strap, and “My name is Moschino” a traditional metal strap.

Moschino Watches
Moschino Watches

A year later, Vincent Darré, head of creation and development of the Moschino collection from 2001 to 2004 left the label to become artistic director at Emanuel Ungaro.

Official Partners

In 2007, under the leadership of Thierry Andreatta (CEO from 2007 to 2009), Moschino opened a new boutique in New Dehli, India, where it first expanded in 2005. In May, the first headquarters in Eastern Europe was opened in Lithuania.

In 2007 important agreements were concluded with several partners. Including Scienward International Holdings Limited for the franchise and distribution in China, Allison for creating and distributing Moschino’s eyewear, Binda Group for the manufacture and marketing of watches and jewelry. In 2008 the teen and baby collections were launched too. 

The same year, in collaboration with Independent Ideas, Lapo Elkan’s communications agency, Moschino presented Love Moschino collection, a new face for the twenty-year Moschino Jeans collection. The strategy was to renew it, making it more appealing for new generations.

In March 2008, the new fragrance Hippy Fizz was launched in the market, produced and distributed by Euroitalia. Then, in September, the boutique of New York was opened. Also, in 2009 stores were opened in Dubai, Saudi Arabia and Shanghai. Then a year later in Vietnam. At this point, Moschino’s expansion now reached every corner of the world.

Moschino Spring/Summer 2010 Collection
Spring/Summer 2010 Collection

The original interest of Franco Moschino towards modernity has remained at the center of the company. In 2010, under the supervision of Rossella Jardini, in collaboration with Jo Ann Tan, Maison Moschino was inaugurated in Milan, now NH Milano Palazzo Moscova. Moschino represents a fairytale world where fashion is a means to celebrate the values and the joy of living.

Supporting Charity

Active in the social, Moschino signed numerous collaborations to help children and associations. In 2007, Moschino supported Amref by selling some of its design on Yoox. In the same year, Unicef asked the brand to make a plexi doll for fundraising for the prevention and care of children with HIV. The following year, in collaboration with the Isetan Shinjuku Department Store in Tokyo, Moschino presented a series of mini dresses from the spring/summer 2008 collection, whose proceeds were donated to the Red Cross of Tokyo to support children.

Jeremy Scott

Jeremy Scott Creative Director of Moschino
Jeremy Scott Creative Director of Moschino

In 2014 the brand started to relaunch, with the appointment of the new creative director, Jeremy Scott. Scott was born in 1974 in Missouri, USA, and studied at the Pratt Institute in New York. In 1990 he launched his own line with a fashion show in Paris. Scott’s brand has a very sophisticated pop style, using very bright colors, lettering, symbols and icons taken revisited from the eighties and nineties. The sporty style helped the designer to forge several partnerships with activewear brands as Adidas.

The company appointed Scott after Rossella Jardini, former Moschino creative director,  presented her last collection collection for the Italian fashion house during Milan Fashion Week. Jeremy Scott has been noted in recent years also for a very direct communication on social networks, where he posted accessories and extravagant clothes. Also, his friendship with international pop stars like Rihanna, Nicki Minaj and Katy Perry, who began to wear his clothes at concerts and public appearances, thus increased his fame.

Jeremy Scott With Celebrities Wearing Moschino Collection
Jeremy Scott With Celebrities Wearing Moschino Collection

In February 2014 the first collection by Jeremy Scott was presented, inspired by some American icons, including McDonald’s. Someone criticized the choice, others appreciated. Another novelty is the elimination of Cheap & Chic line and the birth of the “Boutique Moschino” line. The brand announced that the “Moschino Boutique” line targets a wider market and that prices will be about 40% lower than the main line.

Moschino Jeremy Scott 2014
Jeremy Scott Collection for Moschino 2014

The first positive results of the new course of Moschino contributed to Aeffe sales results, which acquired the brand in 1999. There were in fact revenues of €251.5 million, an increase of 0.2% compared to last year. Also, the sale of the Spring/Summer 2015 collections has increased by 15% from a year earlier. Then, in 2015 Jeremy Scott wins the “Womenswear Designer of the Year”.

At the same year, Moschino and Barbie teamed up for a partnership, produced a Moschino Barbie doll and 8 pieces Moschino ready-to-wear collection. Then, during 2016 spring summer fashion week, Moschino launched a new capsule collection called “Clothed For Construction.” This capsule collection is also designed by Jeremy Scott and only available on online.

Moschino Barbie Spring/Summer 2015 Collection
Barbie Spring/Summer 2015 Collection

Current Situation

In July 2017 Moschino launched a limited makeup collection by collaborating with Sephora. This collaboration bring out the best combination of beauty products and luxe accessories. The brand’s signature playfulness together with Sephora’s high quality beauty products served both bold Moschino women and everyone else.

Moschino Limited Makeup Collection
Moschino Limited Makeup Collection

FURLA

Furla began in 1927 in Bologna, Italy. Now, the company produces Italian-designed products that range from handbags and shoes to accessories.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. The Style
  3. Success in Italian and Abroad Markets
  4. Fondazione Furla
  5. Brand expansion
    1. Furla Goes Public
  6. 90th Anniversary
  7. Current Situation

The Origin

Furla is an Italian leather company that was established in Bologna in a historic 18th century villa in the 1927 by  Aldo and Margherita Fulanetto. At first, the company distributed clothing and accessories, then over the years began to manufacture bags, shoes, and leather accessories.

Furla Headquarters in Bologna
Headquarters in Bologna

In 1955 Aldo opened the first Furla store on Via Ugo Bassi in the heart of Bologna and the brand began to grow. By the 70s the second generation, siblings Carlo, Paolo and Giovanna Furlanetto, took position. Paolo and Carlo took responsibility of the growth of the company, while Giovanna decides the creative direction. At this time the company launched the first handbag and accessories collection with the furla logo. The company took a shift towards the design and production of exclusive leather items. By the 80s the brand has stores in Bologna, Rome, Paris and New York.

The Style

The Furla collections are Made in Italy and embody the Italian craftsmanship, but with a modern twist. They use prized leathers, and have created a special tanning process with an emphasis on detail, supported by the latest technology. The products embody Italian lifestyle and bring that to all parts of the world.

Furla Iconic Metropolis Bag
Iconic Metropolis Bag

Accessible luxury has always been the brand’s focus strategy, especially for emerging markets. By adopting contemporary and functional to its design philosophy, creating a glamorous and joyful lifestyle, Furla has engaged with its customers successfully. Brand’s global best seller Metropolis handbag, a clean and liner design, produced from fine materials and pure italian craftsmanship but only cost around €250, it has made luxury affordable.

Success in Italian and Abroad Markets

By 1998 the company reached sales of about €40 million, and had distribution all over the world, with 56 single-brand boutiques in Italy and 24 abroad. In February 2000 the opening of the French market increased sales by 35% compared to 1999. Also during this year, the company founded the “Premio Furla Per L’Arte”, with the purpose to provide visibility to Italian emerging artists.

In February 2002 the company enters the teen,w which marked the birth of Furlina, a teenage comic strip character who appears on bags, accessories, and watches. A year later the company sees growth in the domestic market, which was the goal of Giovannna Furlanetto. The corporate strategy for achieving it includes a program that will open two boutiques in Sardinia, in Fort Village and Cagliari, and two in Sicily, in Syracuse and Taormina. Then, in 2007, Eraldo Poletto was appointed the first non-family member chief executive officer.

Fondazione Furla

Fondazione Furla
Fondazione Furla

In 2008 Fondazione Furla is created and supports the Premio Furla per l’Arte award aimed at emerging Italian artists on the contemporary scene. In the same year, the company launched the male collection, its first shoe line, designed by Max Kibardin, and starts exploring announced that the company signed an agreement wi Tamburi Investment Partners, and ready to go public in 2017, become one of few Italian companies to be listed.

In 2013 Italy and Asia-Pacific (especially Japan) represents Furla strongest markets. Handbags sales further increase in 2014 , exceeding their double.

Brand Expansion

Starting from 2014, Furla made significant marketing push, by collaborating with established fashion photographer Mario Testino and his agency. Furla built a 360 degree communication project to reset the tone of voice and brand image. A huge investment was made to support ad campaign to be seen on all kinds of media, including outdoor billboards, press, videos, social media, in store and PR purposes.

Furla Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Mario Testino
Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Mario Testino

Furla opened 111 new shops worldwide in last two years, and 60% of Furla retail network is fully owned by the company.  the year 2014 closed with a consolidated turnover of €262 million, and achieved 15% increase compared to 2013.

In 2015 Furla continued to expand its distribution network, in the first half of the year, the company opened 39 new stores, as a result, sales were increased 30% to €151.2 million in the first half of 2015. Japan remains Furla’s most important market. Meanwhile, Furla reached its goal and opened one brand new flagship store in New York.

Furla New York Fifth Avenue Flagship Store
New York Fifth Avenue Flagship Store

Also at this time, the company appointed former C.Wonder retail executive Scott Links as its new CEO of the US department. With the aiming to becoming a lifestyle brand, now Furla has added new product categories such as women’s shoes, men’s leather goods, accessories, sunglasses, jewelry and watches.

Furla goes Public

The brand closed 2015 with a consolidated turnover of €339 million, and 80% come from abroad markets. In May 2016 Eraldo Poletto, CEO, left Furla. 

90th Anniversary

Furla 90th Anniversary Capsule Collection
90th Anniversary Capsule Collection

In 2017 Furla celebrated its 90th anniversary by launching a limited collection of its best seller Metropolis handbag during Milan Fashion Week. This limited collection are based on five different colors and nine changeable flaps to narrated a story of music style across 90 years, and each bag represented one iconic music style in every decade. The limited collection was revealed e-commerce. Selling online strengthened the brand, leading to the opening of new concept stores in Milan and abroad and an increase of sales of 45% in three years (2010-2013).

Current Situation

Furla Spring Summer 2017 Campaign
Spring/Summer 2017 Campaign

By 2018 Furla’s network reaches over 1600 points of sales globally, of which 1200 are multi-brand and department stores, and the rest 444 mono-brand store are operating across 100 countries, located in most prestigious shopping area. In addition, brand’s expanded distribution strategy is set to continue throughout 2017.

EMILIO PUCCI

Emilio Pucci is an Italian Designer from Florence. He launched his brand, Pucci in 1947 and it became famous for geometric prints full of color.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. Pucci Prints
  3. The Success
    1. First Catwalk
    2. Neiman Marcus Fashion Oscar
    3. Emilioform
    4. First Haute Couture Collection
  4. Collaborations
  5. Laudomia Pucci
  6. Pucci Acquired by LVMH
  7. Christian Lacroix
  8. 60th Anniversary
  9. Exhibitions and Events
  10. Creative Director: Massimo Giorgetti
  11. Current Situation

The Origin

Emilio Pucci Portrait in Office
Emilio Pucci Portrait in Office

Emilio Pucci (1914-1992) is an Italian designer who was born in Florence, but his father, the Marquis Emilio Pucci di Barsento, was of Russian extraction. After studying social sciences at the University of Athens in Georgia, and then in Portland, Oregon, he signed up as an officer in the Italian Air Force in 1938. Having continued his studies with a Doctorate in political sciences at Florence University, he fought courageously in World War II.

His introduction to fashion came about quite by chance in 1947 amidst the snow of Zermatt, where he was training with the Olympic ski team. Toni Frissel, a well-known photographer for Harper’s Bazaar, immortalized Pucci in a shot with a female friend for whom he had improvised a ski outfit.

Emilio Pucci Improvising a Ski Outfit 1947
Emilio Pucci Improvising a Ski Outfit 1947

A year later Pucci’s first collection of sportswear appeared on the cover of the same magazine. His outfits were bought up immediately by the department store Lord and Taylor, and were given the label “Emilio” in the USA. The American market welcomed Pucci’s comfortable and practical fashion.

Pucci Prints

Emilio Pucci Prints
Pucci Prints

Emilio Pucci is highly influenced by Sicilian mosaics, heraldic banners, Bali Batiks, and African motifs. Therefore, he invented a unique style, recognizable for its printed textiles, first stylized, then geometric. Also, for his incredible use of color, which brought together shades in unforeseen combinations. His prints were designed to be shown off at their best when seen in motion on Pucci’s dynamically cut dresses.

The Success

Emilio Pucci 1949 Beachwear Collection
1949 Beachwear Collection in Capri

In 1949, he launched his first beachwear collection in Capri, based on black and white prints created by Guido Ravasi of Como. The collection was a success, so in 1950 Pucci decided to open a boutique on the Canzone del Mare at Marina Piccola. His clothes were cut and assembled in the family home in Florence, where he had set up a small workshop in order to cope with the influx of requests.

First Catwalk

Emilio Pucci Runway at London 1957
1957 Runway Collection at London

In 1951 his designs appeared in his first Italian runway show, organized by Giovanni Battista Giorgini at Villa Torrrigiani on Via Serragli, Florence. The show was attended by America’s most important buyers. From then on, Pucci would be present at every Florentine fashion show until 1967, the year in which he began to show in his own building on Via dei Pucci. In 1953, his palette of colors became suddenly more daring, printed on shirts, pants, scarves, and dresses in jersey, silk, and synthetic fibers.

Neiman Marcus Fashion Oscar

This range was big news on the international fashion stage, and won Pucci the 1954 Neiman Marcus Fashion Oscar for best designer of the year. Among his most famous were his Sicilian collection of 1956, inspired by the Sienese Palio in 1956, and his Botticelli collection of 1959.

Emilioform

From the very beginning of his fashion career, Pucci was interested in experimenting with materials. In 1953, with Legler, he produced synthetic velvets for sports pants, and in the same year he worked with cotton producers Valle Susa to create printed wally pliss. In 1954 Pucci made famous a new jersey for the production of lightweight, crease-proof clothing.

Emilio Pucci Emilioform
Emilioform

This was produced by Mabu of Solbiate and Boselli of Como, and made out of very fine silk organza. In 1960 he patented a light, comfortable elastic fabric called emilioform composed of Helanca synthetic and shantung silk. From this Pucci produced his Viva ski-pants and his famous outer-space style Capsule.

First Haute Couture Collection

In 1962, having become increasingly influenced by the Orient, he produced his first haute couture collection. This was notable for its rich fabrics and the workmanship of the embroidery, which included Swarovski crystals attached by hand to the palazzo pants which were already so much in vogue by that time.

Emilio Pucci 1967 Campaign
1967 Campaign

Collaborations

In 1966 the first Pucci fragrance, Vivara was launched, followed by Miss Zadig in 1974 and Pucci in 1977. Meanwhile in 1968 he had become involved in the creation of menswear, having signed an agreement with Ermenegildo Zegna. Having invented the “total look” ahead of time, Pucci had signed licenses on all sorts of accessories and other items; from lingerie for Formit, to porcelain with Rosenthal; from rugs for Dandolo Argentini to Parker pens. In 1971 he even designed the emblem for NASA’s Apollo 25 space mission. His clothes were sold in no fewer than 51 countries.

Laudomia Pucci

Emilio Pucci With His Daughter Laudomia
Emilio Pucci With His Daughter Laudomia

In 1980, Pucci’s daughter Laudomia joined his design team, and in 1992 took over her father’s business when he passed away. In the early 2000s the movie Isn’t She Great? is released in which the famous American writer Jacqueline Susann, played by Bette Midler, is such a Pucci fanatic that she even has “Emilio” curtains in her pink study. She wears Pucci from head to toe, and even has a dog called Pucci Poo. The fashion world cannot ignore Puccimania. Katell Le Bourhis, adviser to Bernard Arnault and responsible for the dress collection at the Metropolitan Museum, visited the archives at Palazzo Pucci and was struck by the profound influence of “Emilio.”

Pucci Acquired by LVMH

In April, Cristina and Laudomia Pucci di Barsento — owners of the prêt-à-porter label Emilio Pucci, signed an agreement with LVMH, which acquired 67% of the business. Arnault had listened to Le Bourhis’s advice. The Managing Director of LVMH was the young Catherine Vautrin, who had been on the board since 1998. Laudomia Pucci continues to co-ordinate design and brand policy, whilst the production side of the business is incorporated into the Fashion and Leather division of the Arnault Group, chaired by Yves Carcelle.

Christian Lacroix

In April 2002 Christian Lacroix was appointed Artistic Director of Emilio Pucci. Nobody, possibly, other than the “arlésien” with his Mediterranean spirit, could better take on the legacy of the “Prince of Prints.” Thanks to Lacroix, the shades and combinations of colors of the fashion of an innovative and gifted artist live on. Pucci’s exuberant, optimistic and at the same time highly glamorous vision of life was to be seen both in his ready-to-wear and beachwear collections.

Emilio Pucci Christian Lacroix Spring/Summer 2006
Christian Lacroix Spring/Summer 2006 Collection

Matthew Williamson includes the prints that made Emilio Pucci famous during the ’50s and ’60s in spring summer 2006 collection. He reinterprets them in a modern key on shorter dresses, with more sharp and geometric lines. In the same year, the House of Emilio Pucci works with Omas to create a ballpoint pen in three limited versions, creating an elegant perfect pen for writing thanks to the fantasies created by the Maison.

60th Anniversary

In 2007, the Maison celebrates sixty years and hundred years from the designer’s birth: that year the House launches an ephemeral makeup collection resulting from a partnership with Guerlain, and a new version of  the Vivara fragrance, originally created in 1964. A year later, the brand opens an online store.

Emilio Pucci Peter Dundas 2011 Fall/Winter Collection
Peter Dundas 2011 Fall/Winter Collection

In 2009 Matthew Williamson leaves Pucci and Peter Dundas becomes creative director. His style is recognizable from cuts, colors, details and prints enhancing the female silhouette. Later, in 2013 new boutiques opens in Italy and the House plans to open boutiques globally in the fashion capitals. After the ownership of LVMH, Pucci has plans to step out to seek and join the “big boys club” of the luxury apparel labels.

Exhibitions and Events

From April 5 to July 27, 2014, the Victoria & Albert Museum in London organizes an exhibition on the birth of Italian fashion brands, also celebrating the case of Emilio Pucci. The Maison also participated to a LuisaViaRoma and Adidas charity project, customizing the FIFA ball for the World Cup.

In 2014, during Pitti Immagine Uomo, Vogue Italy organizes an event to celebrate Italians designers born in Florence, where the name of Emilio Pucci is celebrated with photo shoots from the Vogue Italy archives. Moreover, Emilio Pucci creates the installation “Monumental Pucci”, featuring an iconic print depicting the Baptistery of Florence.

Creative Director: Massimo Giorgetti

In April of 2015 Massimo Giorgetti is named creative director of the brand. He is the young and talented founder of the brand MSGM. He was elected creative director of the fashion house to create a new future for the brand, a pop soul of a tradition of quality.

Emilio Pucci Massimo Giorgetti 2016 Spring/Summer Collection
Massimo Giorgetti 2016 Spring/Summer Collection

On the occasion of the earthquake in central Italy of 24 August 2016, the celebrities come together to support those affected by the disaster. The event “Support from Fashion”, in support of the citizens of Amatrice, is organized in Florence. Pucci and other designers put some of their creations for auction to donate the proceeds to the earthquake victims. Always in 2016, Emilio Pucci and Illy come together to create a collection of coffee cups. The objects of design are part of the Illy Art Collection series, which includes hand-drawn exclusive prints, depicting landscapes dedicated to Florence, Milan, and New York.

Current Situation

Emilio Pucci Boutique in Seoul, Korea
Boutique in Seoul, Korea

In April 2017, to tribute the 50th year of Componibili designed by Anna Castelli Ferrieri in 1967, Pucci started a collaboration with Cartel. Together they designed a special version of this iconic storage modules by using brand’s archive print “Campanule” which fully represent the spirit of Emilio Pucci.

At the same time, to strengthen brand’s presence in Asia market,  the company opened a new boutique in Korea, located at the Galleria East Luxury Hall in Seoul. With the new opening Emilio Pucci now has a consolidated presence in Asia, operates in major cities like Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Tokyo, and Beijing. In addition, Pucci is presented all over the world in more than 50 countries, also offering its product through its online flagship emiliopucci.com. Brand’s distribution network extends to the world’s most relevant fashion capitals including Milan, New York, Rome, Paris and London, as well as luxury resort destinations such as Portofino and Saint Tropez.

CESARE PACIOTTI

Cesare Paciotti was founded in 1948 by Giuseppe and Cecilia Paciotti, in Italy where the company specialized in high quality handmade shoes.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. First Shoe Collection & Menswear
  3. The Dagger
  4. Paciotti 4US
  5. Exhibitions
  6. A Hard Time
  7. Current Situation

The Origin

Cesare Paciotti is a shoe designer from Italy born in 1958, but he did not start the business that bears his name. The shoe business, which was first named Paris, was founded in 1948 by his parents, Giuseppe and Cecilia Paciotti, in Civitanova Marche. The company specialized in high quality handmade shoes.

Cesare Paciotti Founder Portrait in Office
Cesare Paciotti Portrait in Office

At an early age Cesare learned from his parents the mastery of Italian shoemaking and created sketches and prototypes. He went to DAMS University in Bologna then inherited the business from his father in 1980. At this time, they renamed the business Cesare Paciotti and he became the creative director, while his sister Paola managed the company matters.

First Shoe Collection & Menswear

In the beginning of the 80s he created his first shoe collection. Also, his men’s line, with its nonconformist designs and outrageous advertising campaigns, stood out in what was a traditional and conservative field. Innovation and high quality are combined with strong geometric shapes and the prolific use of metallic accessories. At the same time Gianni Versace, Romeo Gigli and Dolce Gabbana, asked them to craft their shoes.

Cesare Paciotti Commercial in 1992
Campaign in 1992

At the beginning of the 1990s he launched a women’s collection and the highly recognisable stiletto heel, creating extremely feminine shoes. A few seasons he created a range of handbags, cases, backpacks, hats, and overnight bags. In 1998 he launched a range of eyewear. In 2001 the year closed with a turnover of €49 million, an increase of €13 million from the previous year.

The Dagger

Cesare Paciotti Iconic High Heels with Logo
Iconic Stiletto with Logo

The brand’s strong personality is symbolised by the dagger, whose hilt bears the designer’s initials creating an unmistakable logo for the maison.

Paciotti 4Us

Cesare Paciotti 4US Collection
4US Collection

In 2002 the brand launched the new collection “Paciotti 4Us.” The brand was one of the 40 Italian exhibitors participating in WSA International in Las Vegas, one of the most important fairs for the US shoe market. Launch of a handkerchief shaped bag called Hebe, like the “servant” of the gods charged with pouring out ambrosia at banquets.

Exhibitions

In February 2003 The New York Fashion Institute of Technology Museum celebrated Cesare Paciotti’s shoes, along with Gucci handbags, and hundreds of other designer pieces, in the exhibition Italy, in the Life Styles. From May to August Cesare Paciotti’s more classic footwear was featured at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in Goddess. This was an exhibition exploring and underlining the influence of Classical dress on fashion of the last three centuries, through a collection of hundreds of garments, prints, and photographs from 1800 to the present day.

A Hard Time

But in 2013 the Paciotti company goes into crisis. This crisis is connected to the collapse of the internal market and a huge sum that the company should have received by usual Italian customers that did not pay their debt with Paciotti because of the recession. Two-thirds of the company were based on the turnover in sales in Italy, but the local market, with the collapse in sales, was greatly reduced.

Cesare Paciotti Commercial 2013
Advertising Campaign 2013

After a strong period of deep recession, the Paciotti company feels the need to continue its activities relaunching the brand, despite the financial blockade that has suffered in recent years. The company has had the support from the suppliers, who trusted Paciotti even in such a delicate moment.

Current Situation

In October 2017, Paciotti collaborated with Slovenian-Italian stylist Ada Kokosar, and launched a capsule collection called Paciotti by Midnight. This collection is inspired from Cinderella’s glass slippers and Marie Antoinette’s lavish style. All of this collection are made from PVC, which allow you to wear these satin shoes in the rain.

Cesare Paciotti Paciotti by Midnight Collaboration
Paciotti by Midnight Collaboration

Today, Paciotti spa aims not only to a growth in sales in the Italian market, but also in foreign markets, such as Russia and East, whose revenues have increased 32-65%. In addition to a revival in new markets, there has also been an internal restructuring, with 120 employees in Civitanova Marche, a few flagship stores and a particular attention to e-commerce, with sales increased by 3.5%. The Paciotti family has decided to invest everything to save the house, symbol of luxury shoes made in Italy.

CANALI

Canali is an Italian luxury menswear brand that established in 1934 by the brothers Giovanni and Giacomo Canali. Known for their excellence in tailoring.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. Modern Italian Tailoring
  3. Brand Development
  4. Product Launches
  5. 75th Anniversary
  6. Acquires & Collaborations
  7. Creative director: Andrea Pompilio
  8. Current Situation

The Origin

Canali is a men’s clothing company that was established in 1934 by the brothers Giovanni and Giacomo Canali. The company mainly produces excellent tailored shirts and jackets. The entire history can be seen in a simple comparison between the small tailor’s workshop where it started, compared to the seven manufacturing plants that now exist.

The business began with two owner-operators and just a few workers. Now the company is guided by the third generation and there are 1,000 workers. Within three generations, production has expanded to include accessories, sportswear, and ties.

In June 2003 Canali received the Pitti Immagine Uomo prize. The award, received by Eugenio Canali, general manager of the company, is given to those who have distinguished themselves in the field of fashion and increased the success of the Made in Italy movement. The clothing is manufactured in seven production centers, all connected to the central headquarters at Sovico, near Milan. About 75% of the turnover is sold abroad. The most important market is North America, followed by Western Europe. Growing markets include those of the former Soviet Union. The year 2002 ended with a turnover of €145 million.

Modern Italian Tailoring

Canali Patterned Jackets
A Patterned Suit Jacket

Canali produces the highest standards of cut, construction and finishing for gentlemen who seek a sartorial look that satisfies their needs and personalities. The brand uses the finest textiles on the market and their artisans pay attention to detail. For example, every roll of fabric is examined by their experts that measure its weight, check each end and evaluate all of its features, examining every inch of the textile to find even the smallest defects.

“Every year we work closely with the mills in Biella [the heart of the Italian textiles industry] to produce amazing new blends of fabrics,” Elisabetta Canali

Brand Development

The company closed 2003 with an increase of 5%, this result is due to both the resilience of US market, which makes 30% of company sales, and the development of new markets, as Russia (Moscow second store with 3 boutiques) and especially China (20 flagship stores).

At this time, there are more than 30 boutiques around the world. Milan, which was the first flagship store opened in 1999, has expanded from a 200 to 600 square meter store. New Canali spaces are opened in St.Petersburg, Amsterdam and Paris (12 showrooms in the world).

In the medium-term plans, much attention is paid to foreign markets, where Canali looks very carefully in its main business lines: Exclusive Canali and Canali Sports, which currently makes the 75% of the turnover.

In this same period, the company signed its first license for the production and distribution of a fragrance with Eurocosmesi, to be launched in 2005. The five-year agreement aims at a masculine scent, being faithful to the mission of the company that looks to the continuity with the Canali style.

The 2004 turnover was €155 million (+ 13% compared to 2003). In 2005, it reaches up €160 million (+ 4.3% compared to 2004). At this time, the company owns seven plants, is in more than a thousand stores worldwide and 35 single-brand boutiques. By 2005 daily Canali production is 1400 suits and 1600 trousers, employing more than 1500 people.

Product Launches

In 2006 Canali plays the energy and dynamism of the contemporary man and launches the Canali Men Travel Set, a stylish and practical travel kit dedicated to the real citizens of the world. With a growth rate of 10% per year, Canali invoiced €178 million in 2006, opening to external managers.

Canali Black Diamond
Canali Black Diamond

A year later, in 2007 the limited edition Black Diamond Eau de Parfum is launched, celebrating the second year of life of the Canali Men fragrance. Also, the company celebrated the new store opening in Hong Kong at the IFC Mall; in addition to ready-to-wear clothes, customers can order custom-made clothes, which will be ready in eight weeks, thanks to the tailoring service offered in the new store.

75th Anniversary

In 2009 Canali celebrated the 75th anniversary. To celebrate this milestone the historical brand moves the presentation of the new collections in Milan. Also, they opened a new Paris boutique with 500 square meters on one level. The opening is at 36 Rue Marbeuf, near the Avenue des Champs Elysèes.

The company ends the year with €150 million (-17%) and continues to invest in retail. The company opens their first boutique in the Republic of Singapore, in the Island of Sentosa, inside the stunning building complex Resort World.

Acquires & Collaborations

In 2010 Canali opens its new headquarters in New Bond Street, in two historic buildings in London. In the same year, Datafashion passes into the hands of the Canali Group. The historical Italian menswear brand completes the process that began in December 2008, when it acquired 49% of Datafashion, the Parma company operating for over 25 years in the software and services market for the fashion and luxury business.

Canali London Store
London Boutique

The United States is the largest market of the company, with a turnover that reaches €156 million. So, in 2011, their boutique moves from the center of New York to a new larger space in the Meatpacking District. Also, they open their first boutique in San Paolo Brazil, at the first floor of the prestigious “Shopping Cidade Jardim”. The Group, led by the third generation, closes 2011 with a budget of €184 million, and an increase of 12%.

In 2012 the Canali Group signs a joint venture agreement with the Indian company Genesis Luxury Fashion Private Limited, already the brand’s distributor in India with 5 boutique in Delhi, Gurgaon, Mumbai, Hyderabad and Bangalore. At the same time, Canali strengthens its presence within the Chinese market with a new flagship store in Beijing. The boutique is celebrated with the eventUnveiling Tradition“, with the Chinese actor Huang Xiaoming as special guest, celebrating the 78 years of the Italian tailoring tradition of Canali.

Creative Director: Andrea Pompilio

In 2014, Canali named new creative director Andrea Pompilio, who has won the “Who’s the Next” award, and has designed for many top luxury brands.  His aim for Canali is to create a new men’s wardrobe which is rich in details but with clean silhouette, move the design focus to leisure wear but always refined.

Canali Fall/Winter 2015
Fall/Winter 2015

The Canali family and the group have been involved in charity actively. In 2015 October, Canali revealed it non-for-profit organization, Fondazione Canali Onlus. With the purpose to promote and sustain projects related to social assistance, health care, education and professional training, Fondazione Canali Onlus has helped numerous charity projects worldwide.

In early 2016, the brand opened its first boutique in Jordan to make its presence in Middle East market. The new boutique is located in the heart of Abdali, aim to offering a new, high-end shopping experience for consumers there. Later in April, Andrea Pompilio departs, and now the brand’s in-house design team is in charge of all collections.

Current Situation

During Canali’s Fall 2017 Menswear presentation, the brand released a short film created by Italian director Ivan Cotroneo, to show guests the behind scene of  construction of Canali suits, but only in reverse. Meanwhile, to celebrate Canali’s craftsmanship and Made in Italy excellence, the brand launched a design workshop for Italian fashion School students to discover new talents.

Currently, Canali’s headquarters, in the newly redeveloped Porto Nuova district, is strikingly modern. In October 2017 the brand announced the closing of their factory in Carate Brianza, a one-hour drive from Milan. The employees that were let go were mainly seamstresses and ironers who had been working at the Canali factory for 20 or 30 years.