MIU MIU

Miu Miu is the instinctive and playful Prada counterpart. They share the same creative matrix, bourgeois spirit, and syntax, but deliberately breaks it.

Index

  1. The Beginning
  2. The Inspiration: Miuccia Prada
  3. The Movement Growing
  4. Miu Miu Brand Identity
  5. Groundbreaking Advertising Campaigns
  6. Women’s Tales 2012
  7. International Store Openings 
  8. Current Situation

The Beginning

In 1993 the brand, Miu Miu, is created as a womenswear line. Miuccia Prada, the designer, choose the nickname to bring the concept of femininity to the extreme. With a light, ironic style, and at times naive. The point of this brand for Miuccia is to offer a free expression zone.

Later, in 1994 Miu Miu launched their Men’s line. It is a contemporary take on Prada Men’s line. When the Prada brand is reaching the minimalist pinnacle, Miu Miu proposes an idea of naïve sophistication.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Miu Miu First Fashion Show
First Fashion Show

The Inspiration: Miuccia Prada

Experienced by nature, Miu Miu empowers a sense of vivacity and youth, understood as a mental condition, not an ancestral one. As a designer, Miuccia Prada focuses on moods that affect styles. For her, it is always irrelevant to determine the material.

Convinced by the changing nature of fashion, Miuccia Prada manages to capture a sensual and glamorous restlessness that will soon become an indispensable part of the Miu Miu DNA.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Purse Details
Purse Details

Miuccia Prada focuses on a clientele that is particularly attentive to the new, unswerving, and sophisticated trends. Miu Miu expresses Miuccia Prada’s vision of an alternative style. Always characterized by a strong personality, completely independent of the Prada brand.

Turning fashion into a mental state and using change as a tool, Miuccia Prada has built a world around Miu Miu, a trademark and at the same time a new way of communicating.

The Movement Growing

Later, in 2002, Fabio Zambernardi, becomes the design director of both Prada and Miu Miu. Also, both brands combined a total of 160 direct sales outlets.

A year later, a boutique debuts in Tokyo, in the Shibuya district. Also, both Prada and Miu Miu enter a ten-year license agreement with Luxottica Group, a world leader in the optical industry, for the production and distribution of sunglasses and watches.

In 2005 the Miu Miu Men’s line is temporarily frozen. Later, after the trials of presenting the collections at the New York, London and Milan fashion weeks, Miu Miu finds its final and natural location in the fashion calendar of Paris in March 2006. By 2007, Miu Miu’s annual sales of womenswear had risen to $297 million, and as it grew in sophistication. Later, in 2008 the Miu Miu Men’s line is closed permanently.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Miu Miu First Fashion Show in Paris 2006
First Fashion Show in Paris 2006

Miu Miu Brand Identity

Comparing with the fashion world in its undisputed capital, Miu Miu uses the magnificence of the Parisian scenery as the ideal stage for its experimental essence, combining the savoir-faire of Parisian couture with a rare and sophisticated elegance, never forgetting irony.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Miu Miu a set up at the Palais D'Iéna
A set up at the Palais D’Iéna

Featuring a state-of-the-art spirit, Miu Miu blends in a constant cross-fading concept of indoors / outdoors, town / country, male / female, couture / street, past / future. The prints create excesses, breaks and counterpoint. Footwear, ironic and eccentric, are a focal point. The boundaries between high and low, trash and elegant are deliberately ignored.

The dialectic of the bourgeois style is then revised. The contrasts are ostentatious rather than hidden. Each piece is made with careful attention to detail. In this perfect frame insert strangeness, contradiction, and intentional errors. Arguing and exquisite finesse are the keys.

Groundbreaking Advertising Campaigns

Innovative advertising campaigns have marked a striking styling: initially shot in a neo-realistic style by Corinne Day and Ellen Von Unwerth, Miu Miu’s images soon developed their unmistakable uniqueness by choosing celebrities as a testimonial.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Miu Miu Fall 2017 Advertising Campaign
Fall 2017 Advertising Campaign

Since the debut with Drew Barrymore in 1995, the cast has changed constantly and abstractness of narrative style has become a trademark: Kim Basinger, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Vanessa Paradis, Stacy Martin, Hailee Steinfeld, Chloë Sevigny, Amanda Seyfried, Elle Fanning just to make some names, they all participated in print campaigns, made with a cinematic style. The intention is always to define a vision of fluid and spontaneous femininity.

A volatile touch of nonchalance and a sense of senseless unreality persist as a fundamental note of the essence of Miu Miu, constantly changing and never equal to herself.

Women’s Tales 2012

Women’s Tales is an ongoing short film series for the female universe. Made by important international filmmakers with different intellectual formations express their vision of femininity.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Miu Miu Carmen Chloë Sevigny's Film
Carmen Chloë Sevigny’s Film

It invited filmmakers to celebrate femininity in the 21st century, exploring it with a critical eye. This means embracing the infinite complexities and contradictions of women to reflect and excite them.

In the series of shorts, the Miu Miu collections play a prominent role, alongside famous actresses and models. The Miu Miu leaders act as a contrast to narrative drama. Power, desire. Vanity, refinement. Rites, rules. Dreams, nightmares. Even the smallest moment in a woman’s daily life contains many facets. Women’s Tales narrates these moments and emphasizes the fundamental, enriching role of clothing.

International Store Openings

Miu Miu opened its first boutique in China in the MIX in the city of Shenzhen in 2009. Later, Miu Miu expanded into the North American market. A store was launched in Houston, Texas, in The Galleria during the summer of 2011. Also, in Short Hills, New Jersey, in the fall of 2011. Miu Miu also opened their first Australian boutique at Chadstone Shopping Centre in Melbourne. Then, a second opened at Westfield Sydney in 2011. A branch opened in Glasgow, Scotland, in 2010 and is situated in the Fraser’s department store.

On March 26, 2015 Miu Miu presents his new project with Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron. The 720-square-meter building, located in Miyuki Street in the Aoyama district of Tokyo, is the heart of Japanese brand activities. The project is placed diagonally with respect to the famous Epicenter Prada, also designed by the Swiss study. Contrary to the fully glazed Prada building, the discreet Miu Miu metal facade looks dull and hotter. The typological model chosen by the architects is that of a box placed directly at the road level, with the lid slightly raised to mark the entrance and allow passers-by to look inside.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Miu Miu Tokyo shop, Herzog & de Meuron Project
Tokyo shop, Herzog & de Meuron Project

Current Situation

In 2013 Miu Miu, along with Prada, created a collection of over 40 exclusive evening cocktail dresses for “The Great Gatsby”.

In August 2015, Miu Miu launched its first fragrance which captures the spirit of the brand. The surprising combination of lily of the valley and the Akigalawood, creating a feeling of natural and timeless in a contemporary way.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Miu Miu The First Female Scent
The First Female Scent

Today, Miu Miu’s worldwide expansion strategy is based on occupying some of the world’s prime retail positions in cities including New York, London, Paris, Milan, Tokyo, Beijing, and Hong Kong. Miu Miu’s global boutiques are the bricks and mortar embodiment of the experimental spirit of the brand. Continually evolving, the shops suggest a dramatic but playful attitude to shopping and dressing up.

Salva

Salva

Trussardi

Founded by Dante Trussardi in 1911 in Bergamo, Italy. The company started as a luxury gloves business. Today, Trussardi is an international brand that produces “Made in Italy” luxury leather goods, men’s and womenswear collections.

Index

  1. The Origins 
  2. Nicola Trussardi
  3. The Greyhound
  4. The First Fashion Show
  5. Trussardi and the Theater
  6. Brand Expansion
  7. Beatrice Trussardi
  8. Foundation Nicola Trussardi
  9. Palazzo Trussardi Alla Scala
  10. Group Values
  11. Trussardi in the World
  12. The Recent Year’s

The Origins

Founded by Dante Trussardi in 1911 in Bergamo, Italy. The company  started as a high quality gloves business targeting elegant men and women. It grew and became an official provider for the royal family. The brand stood for discreet sophistication, experimentation and innovation. Iconic elements such as high quality raw materials and revolutionary leatherworking techniques were born. These iconic elements still exist in the brand DNA today.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Trussardi 1911 Dante Trussardi Sign
1911 Dante Trussardi Sign

Nicola Trussardi

Sixty years later, Dante’s grandson, Nicola Trussardi, a young manager with a degree in economics from Catholic University of Milan, took over the family business. In school, Nicola studied leatherworking processes, the market, and new trends that were reinforcing Italian style around the world. This education helped Nicola understand the destiny of gloves by this point was obsolete, and without a decisive change in direction, the company was destined to decline and fall. Nicola’s vision is to create a lifestyle brand, able to embrace with every style of life all aspects of life, always focusing on excellence.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Trussardi Nicola Trussardi Portrait
Nicola Trussardi Portrait

Trussardi became an industrial group and entered the clothing and luxury accessories department. They designed and produced suitcases, bags, home, office and leather jackets in constantly changing styles. The brand stood true to Italian tradition of fine craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations.

The Greyhound

In 1973 Nicola became the first designer to adopt a logo to identify all products. He used the greyhound to symbolize modernity, agility, and energy. the Greyhound revolutionizes the international fashion system leaving an indelible imprint in the imagination of those years with its refinement and elegance, with the cautious care of details, with incomparable quality materials. From this time on the greyhound became an international symbol, representing the brand that is still used today. In 1976 the brand opened its first flagship store in Milan and expanded into the European and American markets.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Trussardi Red Leather Greyhound Logo
Red Leather Greyhound Logo

The First Fashion Show

The next step was natural, with the presentation of the first collection of prêt-à-porter in the late 70s and early 80s. With the close collaboration of his wife Maria Luisa, Nicola offered a prêt-à-porter with contemporary and dynamic lines. He favored the use of leather, reinvented by new technologies of processing and other modern and precious materials, such as neoprene and microfibers. Along with being a designer, Nicola was an expert in marketing. He immediately focused on the world of media with spectacular operations in Milan. He brought his runway presentations into exciting new spaces including: Teatro alla Scala, the Piazza del Duomo, the Pinacoteca di Brera, the Stazione Centrale, the Borsa, the racetrack, and opened them to the general public. He surrounded himself with intellectuals and artists, who gave their contributions to the griffe: from the painter Renato Guttuso from whose drawings he derived a sunflower print, to directors and costume designers invited to collaborate on the staging of the runway presentations. But Nicola does not stop at fashion: he is among the first to understand the unstoppable value of the brand: bicycles, tile, perfume, cars, airplanes, helicopters, house linens.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Nicola Trussardi Inspiration, Renato Guttuso
Nicolas Inspiration: Renato Guttuso

Trussardi and the Theater

The Trussardi lifestyle includes art, entertainment, cultured events and design. At this time, the brand had officially become a vital brand in the field of excellent products to be “Made in Italy.” Including the diverse range of fashion, art, cuisine and design. In the years Trussardi is able to blend in harmony with fashion at the theater. He collaborates with the Teatro Piccolo in Milan and with his director Giorgio Strehler, dressing Macbeth on stage at Verona Arena and setting up a parade at Castello Sforzesco with the direction of Dario Argento. Nicola interprets himself in Robert Altman’s Prêt-à-porter movie. This leads to the opening of Palatrussardi in 1986. A new venue for concerts and large scale entertainment events, that housed Frank Sinatra’s last concert in Italy.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Trussardi Frank Sinatra at Palatrussardi
Frank Sinatra at Palatrussardi

Brand Expansion

Known for their elegance and quality, Trussardi rapidly grew internationally through the 90s, that expanded beyond fashion. The Group launches the Jeans, Home, Baby, Junior, Eyewear and Perfumes lines, becoming synonymous with elegance and absolute quality. In the 1990s, the company continued its international expansion path, focusing on new emerging markets in Eastern Europe, Asia and the Middle East. New boutiques are opened in Hong Kong (1992), Moscow (1993), Taiwan and Taipei (1994). In those years it is also the image to spread the style around the world thanks to the collaboration with the most interesting voices of international photography such as Richard Avedon, Mario Testino, Michel Comte, and Steven Klein.

In 1996, Palazzo Marino Alla Scala opened, a newly renovated hotel, that became the first flagship building in the fashion world that was built with a showroom, boutique, exhibition space, café, bookshop and restaurant all in one. On average, in recent years, sales amount to Lire 750 billion a year. In 1998, he founded a school for future fashion professionals, photographers and communicators. Sadly, on an April night in 1999 Nicola Trussardi died suddenly at the age of 57, in a car crash. The tradition of the Trussardi family name and the spirit of Nicola continues to be upheld.

Beatrice Trussardi

After the death of their father, children Beatrice and Francesco took over the management of the family business. The “touch” of these two young people became immediately apparent. They created a younger fashion. The runway presentation for Winter 2003 ranged from the vaguely British style, with minor references to India in the form of damasked fabrics, and sporty suits. British style: knit pullovers with leather inserts, velvet suits, regimental stripes printed on the suede blazers. During this runway presentation, the maison announced a licensing agreement with Vestimenta, for formalwear and men’s sportswear, for Spring-Summer 2004.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Beatrice Trussardi Portrait
Beatrice Trussardi Portrait

The following year Francesco died at the age of 29 in a car crash, by a tragic fate, just as his father had. In March of 2003, 32-year-old Beatrice, becomes sole president, after father and her brother’s sudden deaths. Determined to carry on the work that her brother had begun, for Winter 2004, she presented one of the finest runway presentations in the history of the brand. It represented a way of being, more than just a fashion. The desire to please, rather than to astonish. A wardrobe intentionally for daytime wear, outside of any trends, and therefore, easy to wear. The line included interchangeable items in bright and complementary colors.

In 2006 Eric Wright, an American designer, who worked closely alongside Karl Lagerfeld, while designing for Fendi womenswear, was named head designer by Beatrice, current CEO and President at the time. Beatrice hired Wright with the intention of strengthening the menswear by reversing the current marketed route by bringing back forgotten colors, patterns and rediscover the rounded lines of inside pocket objects. Wright was head designer for 2 years.

Then, in 2008 the Trussardi high end brand was re-named Trussardi dal 1911. During this name change, Beatrice Trussardi, current CEO and President appointed Milan Vukmirovic, previous creative director at Jil Sander, and briefly Design Director at Gucci working alongside Tom Ford, to creative director. Beatrice hired Vukmirovic for his contemporary vision for tradition of Trussardi style.

Foundation Nicola Trussardi

Beatrice also strengthened Trussardi’s commitment to contemporary culture through the launch of the Fondazione Nicola Trussardi; a nomadic museum built to bring art into people’s lives. The foundation restores neglected houses in Milan and gives them to the city to be used as space for exhibitions and events. The company is also part of the world of high-class cuisine with Trussardi Alla Scala Restaurant, one of the best outposts of quality gastronomy in Italy that has recently obtained the prestigious recognition of the two Michelin stars.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Restaurant Trussardi Alla Scala
Restaurant Trussardi Alla Scala

Palazzo Trussardi Alla Scala

In 2009 Trussardi flagship building, Palazzo Trussardi Alla Scala underwent structural renovations and has become a heart of Italian culture. Sticking true to brand values of tradition, the building now houses the first concept store. Inside you can find an exposed layout filled with accessories and clothing for men and women, articles for the home, an area devoted to winning voices of image based journalism, and Café Trussardi, home of the first vertical garden installation in Italy, designed by Patrick Blanc.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Palazzo Trussardi Alla Scala
Palazzo Trussardi Alla Scala

Group Values

Engaged in innovation, sustainability and environmental engagement, Trussardi is the story and the future of Made in Italy excellence in fashion, design, art and cuisine. The brand expresses a new lifestyle, based on excellence: for almost a hundred years the brand is an expression of the solidity and creativity of a home, commitment, and family values.

In fashion, the company has developed, in a century of experience, a unique ability to look for new ways and techniques for treating hides and fabrics. The roots of the brand include the Italian industrial history and its ability to work on the skin is unmatched throughout the world. The gloves laboratory opened by Dante Trussardi in 1911 is a historic example of the dedication and ambitions of the company. The creativity of the family, which has crossed, reinvented and renewed, the last century of our history, expresses an imaginary made of measured elegance, attention to detail, sobriety and charm.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Trussardi Blue Leather Gloves
Trussardi Blue Leather Gloves

In fashion, design, art and cuisine, each time the brand continually combines the culture of its history with the emotion, lightness, irony, and visions of contemporary. Thanks to the strength of the tradition that has built over time, the brand is able to offer fascinating surprises, rapid innovations, and small daily revolutions.

Trussardi in the world

Trussardi is an industrial group that produces and distributes worldwide. Through a differentiation between flagship stores, boutiques, franchise stores, corners, licenses and large retailers, their products are present in every significant market for apparel, accessories, perfumes, furnishing, and home accessories.

The Group’s exclusive distribution network comprises around 440 outlets around the world: 7 Trussardi boutiques, over 300 Tru Trussardi boutiques and in department stores, 17 Trussardi Home stores, and more than 110 retail outlets and stores. Including, the first TJ (Trussardi Jeans) shop opened at Moscow Gum in 23 countries in Europe, Asia and the Middle East.

The Group is also present in the most important multibrands in the world including Barneys, New York; Jeffrey’s, New York; The Webster, Miami; Ron Hermann, Los Angeles; Harrods, London; Joseph, London; Aizel, Moscow; Colette, Paris; Printemps, Paris; Mientus, Berlin; Quartier 206, Berlin; Abseits, Stuttgart; Lakis Gavalas, Athens; Galy, Ibiza; The Outpost, Barcelona; Chapeau, Valencia; White Gallery, Rome; Boon the shop, Seoul; United Arrows, Tokyo; Restir, Tokyo; Designworks, Tokyo; Isetan, Tokyo; Estnation, Tokyo; Eight Million, Tokyo; Joyce, Hong Kong.

The Recent Year’s

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Trussardi Family Portrait
Family Portrait

Through the renovations Trussardi exposes themes of innovation and sustainability. Then, in 2011 Trussardi 1911 line is officially changed to Trussardi. Umit Benan Sahin, Turkish designer, is appointed as head designer of now Trussardi line. He previously worked for Marc Jacobs, Cacharel, and under Sophie Theallet. Sahin debuted his first line at Milan Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2012 at Palazzo Trussardi alla Scala.

February of 2013, Gaia Trussardi, granddaughter of founder Dante, is appointed as creative director of Trussardi mainline collections and advertising campaigns. She has been a part of the company since age 23, and previously designed for Tru Trussardi and Trussardi Jeans. The brand expresses its need for continuous evolution and to strengthen brand identity. In March 2016, Beatrice, former CEO and President, gave Tomaso Trussardi, current CEO, her 25% stake in the company. The company announced a 5-year plan to reposition the brand in accessible luxury. Including a 90% overhaul in line management and restructuring of the multi and mono-brand sales channel, closing down less profitable stores. Along with major changes, the line Tru Trussardi is being discontinued, the last collection was Spring/Summer 2016. Trussardi and Trussardi Jeans will remain. Gaia plans to position the main Trussardi line around “Elegantly Cool” and the Trussardi Jeans will remain a streetwear look.

Today, Trussardi has introduced a contemporary new accessory called the Lovy bag, representing true Italian craftsmanship, made of the finest materials. The brand ambassador, Michelle Hunziker, represents the ironic and elegant elements of the brand. She is confident, complimented with a bubbly personality. Michelle is the ambassador for the new bag, appearing in all campaigns since 2016.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Trussardi Michelle Brand Ambassador for Lovy Bag
Michelle Hunziker: Brand Ambassador for the Lovy Bag