A&V

An abbreviation for Alex Pogrebnojus (1968) and Vida Simanaviciute (1961), designers from Lithuania. Their atelier-studio in Vilnius opened in 1996. They create clothes and costumes for plays and other stage productions. Their clothes are a mix of sports open-work fabrics with pinned flowers. They showed their work at Moscow’s Week of Fashion in October 2002.

AAMA

(American Apparel Manufacturers Association). An association of American clothing manufacturers. Informs members of new technologies and works on industry-wide problems. Includes more than two thirds of the manufacturing companies in the U.S. and is active in every part of the country. Organizes promotional activities and defends the interests of its members. Supports seminars, publishes reports and sends informational bulletins. Founded in 1933 with the name of SGMA (Southern Garment Manufacturers Association), it was renamed AAMA in 1960.

Abaca

Manila hemp. Textile fiber obtained from the leaves of certain tropical plants originating in the Philippines called musaceae. Used unbleached for coarse and hard-wearing fabrics.

Abate

Loris (1927). Italian jewellery designer and fashion entrepreneur, born in Mantua. His father boasted of being from an ancient line of goldsmiths in Sicily. He abandoned the study of engineering in Turin to take his first steps in the world of jewellery. In 1960 he began an association with Mila Nutrizio Schön founding the Mila Schön griffe, a great business and creative success. In 1978, in Fino Mornasco, he founded Schontess, a company which designs and produces fine fabrics, manufactures ties and foulards, and also works under contract for third parties. In the mid 1980s he sold his shares in Schön to a Japanese group. In 1985 he was appointed president of the Camera della Moda (Chamber of Fashion), a post that he held for six years, during which time he transformed the steps of Trinità dei Monti in Rome into an Italian fashion runway for worldwide evening telecasts. In the same period he devoted himself to the brand carrying his own name which produces ready-to-wear. He opened shops that carry only his own brand in Milan and Porto Cervo, while continuing to create his own line of jewellery. The town of Vicenza dedicated a retrospective show to him as part of the exhibition Orogemma.

Abbe

James (1883-1973). American photographer. A versatile artist, he devoted himself to cinematography, working with the great director D. W. Griffith in Hollywood. During the 1920s he moved to Paris where he began to work in fashion (with a certain preference for the clothes of Patou), showing a very personal style characterized by natural light and the use of mirrors to illuminate areas of shadow. Like other photographers of the time, he used theater and movie actresses as models. His pictures, at once both simple and refined, were published by Vogue France, Vogue America, Harper’s Bazaar, L’Officiel de la Couture, Fémina, and Vanity Fair. During the 1930s his attention shifted to photo reportage and he produced important photo features during the Spanish Civil War and the Second World War. He also took the first official portrait of Stalin.

Abbondanza Matos Ribeiro

Portuguese brand launched in 1989 by Eduarda Abbondanza and MÄrio Matos Ribeiro. Their work is characterized by great technical rigor in the cutting of fabric and an image that is romantic and evocative. In 1991 they launch the project ModaLisboa, through which they contribute to the success of Portuguese fashion and to its launch on an international level, presenting their own ideas on runways along with those of other stylists. In 1995 they stop presenting their collections in order to dedicate themselves to the creation of clothes and costumes for the theater. In 1996 they found the AsociaciÆn ModaLisboa in order to promote the work of Portuguese designers and the idea of contemporary and interdisciplinary Portuguese fashion.

Abboud

Joseph (1950). Designer born in Lebanon. Lives and works in New York. Though following a rather unusual path (he studied literature at the University of Massachusetts and at the Sorbonne in Paris), he has carved out a considerable niche in the vanguard of American style. He designs women’s wear and creates high-fashion fabrics. He combines a casual American style with the colours and fabrics of his native country. His inspiration comes especially from kilim carpets, which he collects, even when he made creations for other griffes, such as Louis in Boston. He became an established designer working with Ralph Lauren but leaves in 1986 to start his own business. Success is immediate and he later works on women’s wear, sportswear, accessories, shoes, perfumes and furniture. His men’s wear collections are presented in Europe for the first time in 1990.
&Quad;2000, June. Brand takeover. For $65 million, GFT Net, which is the manufacturing arm of the Italian company HDP, becomes the sole owner of Abboud’s lines and licensing.
&Quad;2002, May. Positive results in the first quarter of the year: in contrast with the results of other HDP brands, Abboud scores a 3% increase.
&Quad;2002, September. Abboud is the last remaining fashion brand owned by HDP after the sale of Valentino, Sahzà, Revedi and Facis.
&Quad;2002. The year ends with revenues of €80 million and operating results of €10.5 million.
&Quad;Publication of Abboud’s book Thread; he is also the official designer for various television networks, the NBC Olympics, CBS’s March Madness and NFL Today.