Fabiani

Alberto (1910-1987). Italian tailor and designer, born in Rome. His talent was foretold, as he was the son of tailors from near Tivoli whose work was already famous in the early 1900s. He was educated in the use of scissors at a very young age. After his schooling, he went to Paris and various ateliers in order to learn about fashion. Once back in Italy, he opened his own atelier, first on via Frattina and then on via Condotti. His garments are unmistakable, especially the jackets, which Fabiani’s tailoring skills endowed with great class. He was part of the by now historic group of designers (nine for high fashion and four for prêt-à-porter) who in February 1951 accepted the invitation of Bista Giorgini to present to American buyers Italian clothes that were free of the subjection of French fashion, and presented a collection in the sitting-room of his Florentine villa. Simonetta Colonna di Cesarò, who in 1952 became his wife and participated on that revolutionary day as an independent designer, says in her book La Sala Bianca — Nascita della Moda Italiana (‘The Sala Bianca — The Birth of Italian Fashion’): “I convinced Alberto, I almost forced him. He was reluctant. Thanks to French fashions, he had acquired a rich and numerous clientele. It was understandable that he was doubtful, but my prodding made his fortune. He became the true, great figure of the Italian look. He was an extraordinary artisan, one of the rare designers who knew how to make his own models in cloth.” Fabiani and Simonetta were among the first to leave Florence in favor of their own Roman ateliers. “One day we told each other that Rome was as good as Florence, that we could be in our own house, that everyone had a right to a stage for himself, instead of that group presentation. Individualism is a typical Italian weakness,” remembers Simonetta. Some years later, Fabiani left Rome for Paris. He came back to Italy after 1970, and, as a consultant to several clothing manufacturers, he continued to work until his death. Among his collaborators were Forquet and, for men’s fashion, Elio Costanzi. In 1960, his book Stracci (‘Rags’) was published.