Elie (1964). Lebanese designer. She studied in Paris but began her career in her home country, designing wedding and ceremonial dresses for Arab royal families (including Queen Rania of Jordan’s outfit for her coronation) and for Middle Eastern high society. Her first fashion show was held in 1993. In 1998 she made her debut on the haute couture runways of Rome, presenting garments with very elaborate drapes and intricate embroidery done by hand by the 100 people dedicated to the task in her Beirut studio.
&Quad;Since 1998, Saab’s collections have been produced exclusively in Milan.
&Quad;2002, March. Gaining international fame, the Lebanese designer dressed winning actress Halle Berry for the Oscars award ceremony.
Italian jeweler. Four generations of the Sabbadini family have dealt in precious stones and jewelry. Everything is conceived and made in the family. The boutique designed by Renzo Mongiardino opened in Via Montenapoleone in Milan in October 1998. The showroom with attached workshop is on the third floor. Sabbadini’s fame derives from the company’s knowledge and use of precious stones of the highest quality. It is unique in the way it shows off the stones by using an invisible setting, so that, although the gold is there, you cannot see it. Invisible settings are also used for superb brooches, elegant rings, and sophisticated ear-rings. The symbol of the Sabbadini style is the bee-shaped brooch, which are made by hand in gold with semiprecious stones, or with emeralds, rubies, diamonds, and pink, blue or yellow sapphires. Sabbadini’s creations are known throughout the world, from the showroom in New York to the exhibitions in Tokyo, St Moritz, Palm Beach, Beverly Hills, Southampton, and Crans-sur-Sierre.
(1965). Moroccan designer born in Casablanca. He has been working in New York (with a showroom in Center Street) since 1997, making exclusive designs for a very thin slice of the public who have very personal ideas about how and why they dress as they do. He likes camouflage materials, which he searches out around the world. Before setting up on his own, he worked for a long time in Paris as assistant designer to Chantal Thomass and Jacques Esterel. As well as being involved in fashion, he takes part in film and media events, produces hip-hop music, and writes poetry.
French women’s lingerie boutique in the Rue des Saints Pères in Paris. It was opened in 1976 by Monette Moati. It sells haute couture lingerie in a choice of over 30 colors and a vast array of silk prints.
&Quad;2003. The designer added a line of silk stockings in 25 colors which can be combined with matching underwear.
The tsarina of furs. The Siberian people paid the iassak, the tax that ended up in the tsar’s personal coffers, in sable. The Monomachus’s crown, called a chapka and made of gold filigree over a gold base studded with precious stones and pearls, was trimmed with sable; sable also adorned the sumptuous jewel-encrusted cloak that the tsar wore for official ceremonies. Every possible eulogistic adjective or expression has been used to describe the magnificence of sable, and the French even compare it to a fluffy “mousse.” It has even been suggested that the Golden Fleece sought by Jason and the Argonauts in Greek mythology, which was guarded by a dragon in the depths of a forest in Kolchis (today the country of Georgia), was in fact sable. Long before the discovery of oil, it was universally considered black gold. Despite the presence of sable in Asia, North America, and Europe, the history of the fur runs hand-in-hand with that of Siberia. In that unbounded empty land it played the same role as gold in the Gold Fever in Canada and Alaska. The poor animals were the object of such indiscriminate hunting that at the beginning of the 20th century it had disappeared from vast regions of the Russian empire and the Tsarist and then the Soviet governments had to take protective measures. Russian sable (Martes zibellina) has thick, shiny, silky fur in a myriad of hues from brown to light beige, to almost white. It is undisputed that the best is the Barguzinsky, named after the region of Barguin, near Lake Baikal. Breeding, which started in the Soviet Union in 1931, focuses on dark colors, but Nature has created the Royal sable, by transforming an anomaly into a virtue: in the Royal sable, a lack of pigmentation in the tips of the fur creates an incredible silvery sheen that brings an extraordinary beauty to its appearance. Sable is as precious today as it was in the past, when it was part of the Tsars’ Great Treasure. When the Russian aristocracy fled the country, they took with them sable pelts, not money.
A type of clog with a wooden sole and leather upper enclosed at the front but which leaves the heel completely exposed at the back. It is similar to the Dutch clog but without the raised point at the front. In France, they were very commonly worn by the revolutionaries in the late 1700s. For the whole of the 19th century and early 20th century, they were worn by farming children at least until their first communion. In the 1978 Italian film by Olmi — L’albero degli zoccoli [The Tree of Wooden Clogs] — they become the poetic symbol of the events of a few peasant families in the southern Bergamo region. Nearly a century later, a new social class revived them as a new status symbol. At the end of the 1960s, as part of the youth-driven revolution, they were boldly worn by young people and hippies throughout the world, both in cities and in winter with thick colored wool stockings.
Angelo (1922-1997). Journalist, PR, press and advertising agent, and organizer of fashion events. After World War II, armed with a degree in literature, he turned to journalism writing for Ciak, Costume and other magazines. In 1950, he worked with Ezio Redaelli for the Miss Italia competition, becoming the cinematographic press agent. A chance meeting with Giansevero Fila in 1958 took him into the world of textiles and, in 1961, he became wholly involved with public relations and advertising for fashion houses, looking after their contacts with the press. He also organized some shows at the Festival of Men’s Fashion at San Remo, of Moda-Mare Capri and Cortina Moda. Extrovert, friendly, and with immense vitality, he is remembered for example for the time when, for the launch of a product, he hired out the Castel Sant’Angelo, illuminating it with 900 torches. In his final years, he organized the Liguria Moda-Mare al Covo di Nord-Est and Cinema Festival del Mare in the gardens of Naxos.