French couture-house founded in Place VendÂme, Paris, by the brothers Stanislav and Louis “O’Rossen, and in business from 1913 to the 1940s. In 1933, Louis also opened an atelier in Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where he made suits and theatrical costumes. By 1947, the label was limited to perfumes, and was bought by Parfumes Jacques Griffe in 1952.
Miriam (1969). Spanish designer. Born in Bilbao. A Fine Arts graduate with a diploma in fashion design from Bilbao’s International Lanca School, she belongs to the successful upcoming Spanish fashion scene. Her carefully crafted designs are admired all over the world. She makes “innocent” looking clothes, using floral or printed fabrics. In her work, she uses clothes as a form of expression and communication, perfectly balancing fabrics, shapes and in many cases, actual drawings. Her influences are German Expressionism and contemporary art. She is particularly fond of silk, linen, and knitted fabrics.”
(Bird’s Eye). Fabric with a small pattern, similar to that of an actual partridge’s eye. This material has become a classic, used for men’s jackets and coats since the 1940s. Its dark surface is covered with small lighter dots that create an irregular chromatic effect. The pattern is achieved using a “T cloth” weave, alternating two light threads with two dark ones. The final effect is that of very small, almost round, dots, with at their centre a light dot on dark background.
A fur obtained from the ocelot, a South American wild cat. This valuable and rare fur has a yellow background covered with dark oblong patches.
Inspired by Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes, Paul Poiret is credited with having launched the odalisque fashion style during a theme party he gave in his garden called One Thousand and One Nights. The fashion featured light, smooth fabrics, strong and vivid colours, wide-legged pants fastened tight at the ankle, like the ones traditionally worn by the women in a harem, turbans and voluminous evening capes. The term odalisque is still used to refer to a style of wide-legged crinkled or pleated pants, gathered at the ankle by a tie or elastic.
Andrea. Women’s couture dressmaker, inspired by the Parisian scene. He opened an atelier in 1981 in Palazzo Cambiaso in the centre of Genoa. Palazzo Cambiaso represented an important fashion inheritance for Odicini, since it had previously hosted a branch of the famous Milanese fashion houseVentura, and then Fina Trottman, who in 1945 took over the palazzo’s outlet, archives, and clientele, reviving its fame until the end of the 1970s. Odicini also has a ready-to-wear line. His collections range from elegant suits to evening dresses. Odicini boasts an international clientele.
French ready-to-wear label, created in 1984 by the eponymous fashion designer (1949). Lanµon specializes in suits and very feminine coordinates, using pastel colours and natural fibres, such as linen and wool crêpe. Her path to success is impressive: she worked for four years in the creative department of Promostyl, and then moved to Max Mara to design the Sportmax Collections.