French millinery company. It carries the name of its founder, who was a sculptor and continued to devote herself to her vocation, while also following a career as milliner, which began in 1910 with the opening of an atelier in Paris. Until the 1960s, she designed hats, exploring particular forms and structures. Her passion for sculpture urged her to also create jewelry. After the war, as honorary President of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, she struggled to safeguard perfectionism and artisan’s ability of the profession.
Fashion monthly. In 1992 the Musée des Arts Décoratifs of Paris dedicated a historical exhibition to the publication for its 70th anniversary. Founded in 1922 as a supplement to the periodical L’Illustration des Modes. One year later, Condé Nast bought the magazine and changed its name to Le Jardin des Modes. In 1933 the first cover by Hoyningen-Huene opened the era of durable collaborations with significant photographers. After the interruption of publication during the war, it was issued fragmentally until 1947. In 1952, with a new layout and fewer articles, Jardin des Modes was the mouthpiece for ready-to-wear, which was still dawning. In 1954, Hachette took it over. In 1961, it was revived with a new logo and the collaboration of Helmut Newton, who imitated other great photographers (Sieff, Knapp, Horvat). In 1971 the publication was in financail difficulties. The magazine closed down, notwithstanding the efforts of Hélène Lazareff and the France Edition group. The Editions du Henin relaunched it in 1977. In 1979 Boulainvillier International Publication became its new owner and changed the editorial politics with a large format (the new layout was by Milton Glaser) and much news under the direction of Ginette Sainderichin and Alice Morgaine.
Franco (1949). Italian collector from Piedmont. His taste for research and adventure caused him to travel from a very young age. After studying sociology at the University of Trento, he devoted himself to the study of pictorial avant-gardes. In the early 1970s he opened a modern art gallery and started to collect reviews, ancient books, prints, patterns, and fashion photographs. In Vercelli he opened the Dialoghi bookshop, which put him into contact with the most famous entrepreneurs of the textile sector, therefore entering the world of fashion. For Loro Piana he organized a significant patterns Collection and a book entitled The Elegance of Style. The research and re-evaluation of refined and precious materials, sought after with curiosity, stubbornness, and a deep-rooted passion, caused him to visit second-hand markets, old fabric shops, artisans, rescuing ancient buttons, buckles, ribbons, precious fabrics, embroidered tuile, silk flowers from destruction; all of which would have been impossible to reproduce. His task was to collect new things that belonged to another era from around the world. Everything was accurately selected, giving way to an extraordinary Collection of ancient materials from late 1800s to the 1970s. In his atelier in Milan, the Collection is available for use by tailors, designers, and producers, all wishing to draw inspiration for their Collections. Anything can be found there: magazines, photos, patterns, ancient books, original sketches by Dudovich, Guida, Lopez, Boccasile, as well as prints and posters. There are also ancient fabrics from high fashion, tuile or jais embroideries, sequins, passementeries, and all sorts of accessories: French and American bijoux, buckles in Bakelite or mother-of-pearl, haute couture clothes by the most famous tailors, and even an exceptional Collection of buttons from 1500 to 1900. The Collection includes millions of pieces in more than 50,000 models from Liberty to the 1970s. Jacassi’s business does not stop here: he provides new ideas for books on fashion and costume, does technical consultancy for the designing of corporate libraries, organizes theme exhibitions about fashion within various events, from Milano Collezioni to Modit, from Pitti Immagine to the Fashion Vintage Show at the Castello di Belgioioso.
French tailoring workshop. The company was located in Rue des Pyramides, Paris. It had famous clients such as the General De Gaulle, the industrialist Marcel Boussac, and the writer Michel Leiris, who wrote about it in his Journal. It closed in 1970.
Bimonthly magazine. Published by Alsojoy Diffusion since 1987. From an aesthetic point of view, it differentiates from its competitors for the graphic use of drawings instead of photographs, even on the cover. Most of the publication is naturally reserved to fashion, accompanied by columns about the jetset, news, music, cinema, theater, and beauty. Its founders, Florence Lafargue, chief editor, and Michle Hauville, director, maintain its high level as a prestigious review through presenting only luxury products, while keeping its price at a competitive level.
French silk factory. Established in 1864 in Saint-Etienne by Henry Faure, and moved to Saint-Just-Saint Rambert in 1992. Every year the Collections change in their choice of colors, the contrasting materials, and the tests on new weaves. Silks, always up-to-date, are highly researched by designers such as Gaultier, Ralph Lauren, Stephane Kelian, Ungaro, Valentino, and Charles Jourdan. 60% of the turnover comes from export, with 150 patterns for silk fabrics and 100 exclusive ribbons each year.
Knitwear fabric. A system based on perforated cardboards, applied to machines that work jersey, drives several threads into forming a pattern. Highly elaborated fabrics for interior decor are jacquards: damasks, brocades, and gobelins.