Company of ready-to-wear fashion. Established in Bologna on the initiative of Francesco Rocca and Vito Monti. Men’s clothing are manufactured with the Jey Cole Man brand are manufactured: suits, jackets, pants, shirts, and accessories. Under the direction of the new designer, Giuseppe Belli, the production shifted towards nomadic aesthetics, characterized by washed fabrics, damask linen, and cottons, which accompanied the original, informal elegance of the company. Some openings in franchising are under preparation, and these shops are in addition to the stores in Riccione and Bologna, in order to consolidate the Italian market and to prepare for the international adventure.
Lace decoration or a decoration in the same fabric of the blouse. Due to its softness it is often similar to a ribbon or a bib. It enriched the front of ladies’ refined nightgowns of the 1800s with tiny ribs or very thin pleats. In the same period the jabot decorated men’s shirts in very fine linen, initially for daywear, then only on evening outfits. In men’s fashion, the disappearance of the jabot caused the birth of the tie in a size that has remained almost unvaried until today. In women’s fashion, the jabot survived the division into two pendant ribbons from the collar or the plissé vest, equally mobile, on low-necked blouses, or as a cascade of Valencian lace, as in more recent times beneath an ultra masculine tailleur.
Franco (1949). Italian collector from Piedmont. His taste for research and adventure caused him to travel from a very young age. After studying sociology at the University of Trento, he devoted himself to the study of pictorial avant-gardes. In the early 1970s he opened a modern art gallery and started to collect reviews, ancient books, prints, patterns, and fashion photographs. In Vercelli he opened the Dialoghi bookshop, which put him into contact with the most famous entrepreneurs of the textile sector, therefore entering the world of fashion. For Loro Piana he organized a significant patterns Collection and a book entitled The Elegance of Style. The research and re-evaluation of refined and precious materials, sought after with curiosity, stubbornness, and a deep-rooted passion, caused him to visit second-hand markets, old fabric shops, artisans, rescuing ancient buttons, buckles, ribbons, precious fabrics, embroidered tuile, silk flowers from destruction; all of which would have been impossible to reproduce. His task was to collect new things that belonged to another era from around the world. Everything was accurately selected, giving way to an extraordinary Collection of ancient materials from late 1800s to the 1970s. In his atelier in Milan, the Collection is available for use by tailors, designers, and producers, all wishing to draw inspiration for their Collections. Anything can be found there: magazines, photos, patterns, ancient books, original sketches by Dudovich, Guida, Lopez, Boccasile, as well as prints and posters. There are also ancient fabrics from high fashion, tuile or jais embroideries, sequins, passementeries, and all sorts of accessories: French and American bijoux, buckles in Bakelite or mother-of-pearl, haute couture clothes by the most famous tailors, and even an exceptional Collection of buttons from 1500 to 1900. The Collection includes millions of pieces in more than 50,000 models from Liberty to the 1970s. Jacassi’s business does not stop here: he provides new ideas for books on fashion and costume, does technical consultancy for the designing of corporate libraries, organizes theme exhibitions about fashion within various events, from Milano Collezioni to Modit, from Pitti Immagine to the Fashion Vintage Show at the Castello di Belgioioso.
Betty (1960). British designer. She created her first womenswear Collection in 1981 in London. She is particularly famous for the use of Timney Fowler printed fabrics. A graduate from the Birmingham College of Art, she was an assistant in the studio of Wendy Dagworthy. After which, she became head of the style department of the Radley Cooper Quorum group. In 1985 she won the award for Best English Designer of the Year. The fashion designer Antonio Berardi says: “She has modernized knitwear”. Since 1986 she had also designed a men’s line.
&Quad;2001. The designer, already awarded with the Royal Designer for Industry, celebrated 20 years in the world of fashion at London Fashion Week, presenting the 44th Collection of her career. Her production, even if it isn’t the youngest and hippest of the London scene, continues to represent “the wilder side of conservativism”.
Italian textile company. Its headquarters are in Terranova Bracciolini (Arez”zo) Established in 1972, it has always been characterized for its research and strong innovative spirit: the use of viscose when it was used only for lining; the different choices in the quantity of use. These entrepreneurial virtues caused quick growth up until the international successes in the late 1970s: meeting with stylistic ready-to-wear and successes on the runway. It then experienced further developments through the introduction of electronic machines and the use of new fibers for the six-color gobelin, the unusual elasticity in Lycra, the new knitwear products, and exclusivity for designers. The monocentric, familiar management of those years was replaced by diversification of production cycles. It established an associated company, the Knitting, for the weaving of plain dyed fabrics. In 1997 the group employed 70 workers, produced more than 1.5 million precious fibers, and had a turnover of 43 billion, 40% of which came from export. The end of the millennium projected the company into advanced methods, techniques, and weaving mills creating inlayed velvets and new fibers.
&Quad;At the beginning of the new century, Jackytex’s products were distributed all over Europe (Germany, France, Benelux, UK, and Spain), the Americas (USA, Brazil), and in the Far East (Japan, Korea, and Hong Kong).
&Quad;2003, February. The company presented a new fabric called Ingeo at the Salon du Textile in Paris, obtained from 100% recycled fibers from ecological materials such as wheat, and manufactured on behalf of the American company Cargill Dow.
Mary Phelps (Caresse Crosby). American dressmaker. In 1914 she invented a very light bra without straps and whalebone supports. Its purpose was not to extol the breast, but to flatten it. Her idea was a product of the garµonne fashion of the 1920s, the crisis woman. The bra was successful throughout the decade, guaranteeing the dressmaker with a place in fashion and female costume history.
French perfume house. Established in 1970 with Gérard Courtinne as its founder. His certainly modern fragrances are nonetheless classic for the bottles that reproduce the sculptures to which they inspire. Aimed at a young, demanding, and sophisticated public, the company launched a women’s line (Chicane, Silence, Coeur de parfum, and Anthracite) as well as a men’s line (Eau cendrée, Jacomo de Jacomo, and Anthracite pour homme). In 1983 Courtinne opened a workshop in Deauville, and five years later he added a line of accessories. The company’s ownership passed on to Martell, then to Jean d’Avèze, and finally, in 1987, to Balmain.