SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Salvatore Ferragamo (1898-1960). Famous Italian shoemaker with 20,000 models and 350 patents. He created multiple iconic luxury women’s shoes. Also known as “Shoemaker of the Stars.”

Index

  1. The Life of Salvatore Ferragamo
    1. Young Talent
    2. Immigration to the U.S.
    3. Shoemaker of the Stars
    4. Return to Italy
    5. The Wedge Shoe
    6. Salvatore Ferragamo and Famous Clients
    7. Brand After 1960
  2. Brand Expansion From 1970s to early 2000s
  3. World-Wide Expansion
    1. New Opening’s
    2. Acknowledgments
    3. New Creative Director
  4. Recent Years
  5. Financial Evolution
  6. Current Scenario

The Life of Salvatore Ferragamo

Young Talent

Salvatore Ferragamo (1898-1960). Famous Italian shoemaker. The 11th, out of 14 children, born in Bonito. A small village about 160 miles from Naples.

From a young age Salvatore Ferragamo had clear ideas and wanted to become a shoemaker. Although, in southern Italy a shoemaker is one of the humblest professions, his parents, despite their poverty, were not happy with his choice.

At 9 years old he created, in only one night, his first pair of shoes for his sister’s communion, and he managed to convince his family that the shoemaker career was the best choice for him.

Later he was an apprentice in Luigi Festa’s workshop and once he finished this experience he moved to Naples to learn something new and try in a real way his abilities. After he returned to Bonito, by the age of 13, he had his own shop where he began to create shoes.

Immigration to the U.S.

Then, in 1915, he immigrated, via the ship Stampalia, to the United States to join his brothers who were already there. But in Boston, his brother-in-law, had already found him a job at the Queen Quality Shoes Company. They produced thousands of shoes a day, soles and heels in half a second, and one minute for sewing.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Salvatore Ferragamo Portrait
Salvatore Ferragamo Portrait

Anyone would have been thankful for such a job, but not the young Salvatore. He had a more noble idea of the shoemaker’s profession. He couldn’t stand those machines. He exclaimed, “They made shoes that were heavy, clumsy, and squat, with a toe shaped like a potato and a leaden heel.” He left the factory, joined his brothers in Santa Barbara.

As told in his autobiography, Il calzolaio dei sogni (The Shoemaker of Dreams, Skira), Salvatore immediately understood that California, with its fast-growing film industry, would be the Promise Land.

It all started when the property manager at the American Film Company complained about the boots worn in the western movies. He believed, if they were easy to wear, the styling was no good, if the style was attractive, they hurt the feet of the actors. Ferragamo offered his services and produced boots for the manager. This was a success and the director Cecil B. De Mille said, “We would have won the West sooner if we had had your boots.” Salvatore and his brothers Girolamo, Seconding, and Alfonso opened their first shop in the center of Santa Barbara.

This is the beginning of a good relationship between Ferragamo and the Film industry, which will go on even after the American experience.

Shoemaker of the Stars

At this time in Hollywood 1923, the future of the movement was beginning. The biggest stars visited his boutique, including Mary and Lottie Pickford. He created the original Ferragamo model for her in brown kidskin, “with two ears standing up in front.”

When the Film industry moved from Santa Barbara to Hollywood, Salvatore Ferragamo decided to take a risk and follow the studios in order to find new possibilities of expansion.

In 1923 he opened his new shop “Hollywood Boot Shop”, and the Hollywood stars would only feel famous if they wore Ferragamo’s shoes. Salvatore Ferragamo soon became known as the “shoemaker to the stars.”

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Salvatore Ferragamo First Hollywood Store
The Announcement of Salvatore Ferragamo’s First Hollywood Store

He created pale lavender sandals for Jean Harlow, cork-shaped heels for Gloria Swanson with a lot of pearls, and slippers in multicolored satin for Lillian Gish. Also, men’s shoes for clients like Douglas Fairbanks and Rodolfo Valentino.

Also, while in California Salvatore Ferragamo studied the anatomy of the foot. After his research he came out with a revolutionary component to sustain the arch of the shoe by putting thin layers of steel in the sole in order to provide arch support, when most shoemakers only used cardboard. This piece is called cambinone. In the late 1920’s he patented this invention.

His success was due to the comfort of his shoes. After the success of this invention he went on with his studies of shoes and invented an original way to wear the shoes, which made it easier on his production.

Salvatore Ferragamo With Sophie Loren. Copyright Attualita Fotografica Italiana Del Vecchio & Scala
Salvatore Ferragamo With Sophie Loren. Copyright Attualita Fotografica Italiana Del Vecchio & Scala

Return to Italy

In 1927, he returned to Florence, Italy a city that represents the beauty and culture of Italy and world wide recognized as the base of craftsmanship. The same year he opened his first workshop with other artisans for the Italian production of his shoes.

Then, in 1929, during the world wide economic crisis, he faced bankruptcy and failure. Ferragamo didn’t despair, and soon made a comeback. By 1938 he was able to acquire the Palazzo Spini Feroni on via Tornabuoni, which is today still the headquarters of the company. In that same period, he acquired the Michelangelo style villa Il Palagio in Fiesole.

Salvatore Ferragamo Palazzo Spini Feroni in Florence
Salvatore Ferragamo Palazzo Spini Feroni in Florence

The Wedge Shoe

Salvatore Ferragamo invented the wedge shoe in cork to solve the problem of functionality during the autarchy period. To fix the problem he substituted the steel layer inside the shoe.

Ferragamo bought the perfect steel from Germany, but because of the Italian economic situation, he wasn’t able to buy it anymore, so she couldn’t make his shoes.

Ferragamo says “I started working with pieces of Sardinian cork,” Ferragamo writes, “pressing, gluing and finishing until the space between the sole and the heel was filled.”

So, the wedge was born and it became one of the most famous shoe between the 30s and 40s. Ferragamo created a lot of variations including platform heels and sculptured heels.  The heels were made with various colors, or little mirrors placed like mosaics, also with brass grilles and floral motifs and studded with stones. These shoes were worn by the most famous customers.

Salvatore Ferragamo has always been focused on the use of material, even today the maison is still very particular about materials.

The beauty, comfort and longevity of a shoe depends on materials, shapes and production. Salvatore Ferragamo became famous for being able to consider all of these aspects without loosing his design.

He did not only work with luxury leathers, but also with unusual materials.

The traditional Florentine lace, paper, bark, raffia, hemp, skin of fish, and cellophane replaced, before and during World War II the more precious materials like goats, calves, and exotic crocodile. Immediately after the war, nylon and synthetic raffia appeared, and for evening wear, refined embroideries in rhinestones and glass beads offered unique solutions.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Salvatore Ferragamo Wedge Shoe
Salvatore Ferragamo Wedge Shoe 1942-1944

Salvatore Ferragamo’s Most Famous Clients

During the 50’s the most famous actress used to go to Palazzo Spini Feroni as kings and presidents did. Audrey Hepburn, Duke of Windsor, Greta Garbo, Anna Magnani, Paulette Goddard, Lauren Bascal, and Sophie Loren. Salvatore meet all his clients personally and was able to satisfy all requests, even the most extravagant.

Even Marilyn Monroe was a client of Salvatore Ferragamo, wearing his famous decollete with an eleven centimeter heel. The shoes were very high, but comfortable considering Ferragamo invited the particular heel half in wood and steel, which was strong and thin.

Marilyn Monroe owned a lot of Ferragamo shoes that she bought at the New York store. She used to have ballet shoes, but she preferred décolleté that gave her a feminine walk.

Brand after 1960

Once Salvatore Ferragamo died in 1960, his wife Wanda Miletti Ferragamo became the president of the maison and her six sons became responsible for the different sectors, from the creative direction to production, from distribution to the international markets and administration and finance.

Nowadays, Ferragamo’s family is leading the maison and because of this, it makes Ferragamo a very different family oriented Italian brand.

Brand Expansion From 1970s to early 2000s

During the 1970s, thanks to the initiative and preparation of Wanda, president of the company, the brand expanded and started offering total look collections. With fashion collections, men’s lines, perfumes, and eyeglasses, all of which gradually conquered the market.

In 1978 his daughter, Fiamma, designed the Vara shoe which became a best seller. Today, the Vara shoe is considered a Ferragamo iconic element.

Salvatore Ferragamo Iconic Decollete
Salvatore Ferragamo Iconic Decollete

In 1996, Ferragamo acquired Emanuel Ungaro, a luxury menswear line. Two years later the company turnover reached 850 billion liras, most of which came from Europe, U.S., the Far East, Africa, and Oceania. The company had 40 privately owned boutiques, plus several exclusive points-of-sale. Also, several of Salvatore’s grandchildren worked in the company.

Following the birth of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, in Palazzo Spini Feroni, the company has committed itself to art exhibits and cultural activities, not just as a sponsor or patron.

The French designer Marc Audibet creates the new Fall/Winter 2000-2001 collection. During this time, Leonardo Ferragamo became president of Altagamma, an association founded in 1992 and composed by 43 famous Italian brands.

World-Wide Expansion

New Openings

In 2001 the company introduced its world-wide expansion plans, created by architect Michael Gabellini, to renovate, or open, a total of 100 boutiques. The renovations were to gain a still more sophisticated architectural style. A new store opens in Korea, in a prestigious commercial area of Seoul. The store occupies a four-storey building with a garden-terrace on the roof.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Salvatore Ferragamo Seoul Store Opening
Seoul Store Opening 2001

In 2002 Ferragamo opened a new shop in the historical center of Vienna, close to the Castle of Homburg. From 2003, they opened new stores in New York, Tokyo, Amsterdam and London.

The 2001 consolidated turnover was €641 million, and 46% came from the Far East.

Acknowledgments

The year of 2002 was full of good news and satisfaction.  Then, beginning in June, Ferragamo starts a joint venture with Ermenegildo Zegna for the launch of the new brand Zefer, which ended later in 2013.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Salvatore Ferragamo Zefer Brand
Salvatore Ferragamo Zefer Brand

Later, Wanda Ferragamo, the president of the company, is named “Woman Entrepreneur of the Year” by the “Committee of 200,” an organization that each year recognizes the top women managers and entrepreneurs all over the world. The ceremony took place in New York. The citation: “For success in the transformation of a shoe factory into an international luxury concern, in which the family maintains total control of its own flourishing business…”

The same year, Ferragamo was recognized as the best brand in China. Asia was the continent where the brand used to sell more in 2002.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Wanda Ferragamo 2002
Wanda Ferragamo 2002

New Creative Director

In 2002 Donna Graeme Black was nominated as the creative director and she remained until 2007.

In 2003 Salvatore Ferragamo entered the watch market.

Salvatore Ferragamo Watch 2003
Salvatore Ferragamo Watch 2003

Since 2004 the worldwide expansion plan is well under way. The distribution network had 16 new points-of-sale, including the important new boutiques in Osaka, Hong Kong (Pacific Place). Also, stores in Shanghai Center (China), Paris (Avenue Montaigne), and Milan (via Montenapoleone) are re-opened after renovations. The Salvatore Ferragamo Group closed the year with a consolidated turnover of €549 million, an increase of 5% to the year before.

In May of 2005, as part of the Fashion Project of the Province of Florence, with attendance by a large international public, Palazzo Strozzi hosts the fashion show in a memorable evening organized by Beppe Modenese. Then, starting in June 2005, Ferragamo Finanziaria enters a long-term agreement with the Porsche Design group to foresee the production and distribution of shoes, bags, and leather accessories.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Salvatore Ferragamo Florence Store
Salvatore Ferragamo Florence Store

In 2006 new shops in Via Condotti were opened in Rome and Frankfurt. In November of the same year, Michele Norsa became Ferragamo’s new CEO. His managerial mind led the company to expand more and more, exploring new markets such as India, Latin America and Thailand.

Recent Years

A year later, after a new CEO, Cristina Ortiz, was appointed as creative director for the womenswear line from 2007 and stayed till 2010. In 2008 Salvatore Ferragamo company celebrates their 80th anniversary with an exhibition in Shanghai. One year later, the company renewed the license with Luxottica for the production of glasses and sunglasses under the name Salvatore Ferragamo.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Salvatore Ferragamo Anniversary Shanghai
Anniversary Exhibition Shanghai

Later, in January of 2010 Massimiliano Giornetti, current chief creative director of menswear, becomes creative director for the womenswear line. His role lasted until 2015.

Ferragamo officially become a part of Milan stock exchange in 2011. At this time, profits rose around 70% to €103.3 millions.

Through 2013 Ferragamo focused on accessories, in addition to footwear. In early October, they began to target a younger generation by using an “innovative” digital campaign and revamping physical stores. Also, continuing to renovate  stores in existing markets in Europe and the U.S. to boost profitability in its retail division.

Ferragamo reported a 81% rise in Net profits to €81 million in the first half of 2013. The revenues are outside the Italian market, which has struggled to emerge from recession.

Financial Evolution

Their world-wide expansion plan are a success. As of 31 December 2014, the Salvatore Ferragamo Group has posted total revenues of €1.332 million and a 5.9% increase at current exchange rates. At this time, political tensions in Russia and Ukraine reduced the number of shoppers traveling from the region to Europe lead to decreasing number of sales in some cities through Europe. The Asia Pacific region is the best performer with 37.2% of sales.

Salvatore Ferragamo open new shops in less well-known cities Yantai in China, Surabaya in Indonesia, and Cartagena in Colombia. They continued to renovate stores in Europe and U.S. including Miami and Rome. Also, they reopened in San Francisco, on the west coast of America which is a popular destination for holidaying Chinese shoppers.

Salvatore Ferragamo continues to meet challenges due to a weaker euro, lower oil prices, and economic weakness in China. Also, United States, as a strong dollar hits tourist flows, have weighed on several luxury goods companies in recent months. By contrast, Japan has a strong performance thanks to Chinese tourists. The Asia Pacific area, the biggest market, experienced a 2% increase in sales in the first nine months of 2014. Revenues were up 7% from a year earlier, thanks to a 8% increase in the fourth quarter of 2015.

In 2016 revenues total €1.438 billion.

Current Scenario

Currently, Salvatore Ferragamo is going through major changes. In August 2016 Eraldo Poletto was appointed as CEO, who used to work for Furla. Also, 3 new creative directors have been hired after the departure of Massimiliano Giornetti. This includes Guillaume Meilland for menswear, along with Paul Andrew for Women shoes, and Fulvio Rigoni for Woman’s-Ready-to-Wear.

In October 2017 after the departure of Fulvio Rigoni, Paul Andrew is appointed Creative Director of the Women’s Collection.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Salvatore Ferragamo Eraldo Poletto
CEO Eraldo Poletto

The brand now focuses on creating unique and exciting campaigns to bring back its positioning of industry leader it once had in the WWII era.

Ferragamo’s designs will live forever. The classic décolleté is always in style and most women’s go to shoe. The brand is known as the exemplary ideal shoe for women. It strives to be excellent in terms of quality, by keeping the production, and standard of craftsmanship, exceptional.

ALBERTA FERRETTI

Alberta Ferretti is an Italian fashion designer and founder of the clothing line and designed for Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti until 2014.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. AEFFE Company
  3. Cultural Heritage
  4. Awards
  5. Bridal Collection
  6. Current Situation

The Origin

Alberta Ferretti is an Italian fashion designer, founder of the homonymous clothing line, and vice-chairman of the AEFFE Group board of directors, founded in 1981 together with her brother Massimo.

Alberta Ferretti Portrait
Alberta Ferretti Portrait


Alberta was born in Gradara, in the land of Romagna. Always having a great sense of aesthetics, her first steps of success include working in her mother’s tailor shop where she learned how to handle the fabrics, to know the sophisticated colors and become familiar with the workings. Her sartorial DNA and ambition is so strong that, at just 18 years, she opened her first boutique, in Cattolica, an experience which put her in direct contact with the needs of customers and refined her intuition in anticipating the trends of fashion and the desires of women.

AEFFE Company

In 1974 she produced her first collection that will earn great success among the insiders; encouraged by the public response, six years later, together with her brother Massimo, they founded the company AEFFE, which bears her initials. Over the years the company became a powerful corporate group that controls and produces, in addition to the Alberta Ferretti line, also the Moschino, Pollini brands and Velmar.

From the eighties onwards, business developed in an unstoppable way. The company launched the Philosophy line, again designed by Alberta Ferretti, aimed at a younger target and positioned on a lower price range. The company purchased licenses for the production of prominent prêt-à porter brands such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Authier, Cacharel and Marithé & François Girbaud.

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti White Printed Stretchpoplin DressMame Fashion Dictionary: Alberta Ferretti Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti White Printed Stretchpoplin Dress
Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti White Printed Stretchpoplin Dress

Acquisitions of equity packages from various other companies began, confirming AEFFE’s strength in moving as an international holding company. While Brother Massimo will take care of the economic and management part of the company, Alberta will always keep in hand the creative direction, focusing on his feminine creations distinguished by pure lines, essential and decorations with precious embroidery. Collections that will be appreciated all over the world allowing the opening of numerous boutiques and corner shops in shops on four continents. Particular attention will be devoted, in recent years, to the Far East market, on which the company is moving, in line with market trends, to further expand its presence.

Cultural Heritage

Alberta Ferretti Linda Evangelista Campaign 1990
Linda Evangelista Campaign 1990

The designer, over the years, stood out as particularly sensitive to the care of artistic and cultural heritage. In 1994, with a group of companies and the patronage of the City and the Region, will promote the titanic restoration of the medieval village of Montegridolfo, near her birthplace, on the border between Romagna and Marche.

After about six years of work, the village regained its lost identity, appearing as it was at the origins and finding economic sustainability as a new tourist destination. The use demonstrated in the enhancement of this architectural and landscape heritage will be worth, in 2000, the honorary degree in Conservation of Cultural Heritage, conferred by the University of Bologna. The same university institute, in 2003, called her by assigning her a chair to hold a master’s degree in “Production and Culture of Fashion”.

Alberta Ferretti Awards

During her career Alberta Ferretti will be the recipient of numerous awards including the The Romantics award from the International Fashion Group in New York, the La Kore Award as Stylist of the Year in 2003, the Career Award given to her by the Mayor of Rome Walter Veltroni as well as the prestigious honorary title of Cavaliere del Lavoro of the Italian Republic.

Bridal Collection

Alberta Ferretti Forever Bridal Collection 2015
Alberta Ferretti Forever Bridal Collection 2015

In 2010, as an organic extension for the company, Alberta Ferretti Forever, a special bridal collection was introduced. The dresses are romantic and airy through use of chiffon with delicately added embroidery, lace, ruffles or pleats.

According to Aeffe S.p.A. annual report for 2015, the Alberta Ferretti brand increased by 17.0% and the brand’s net sales were €23.94 million, while the company total revenue was €274.04 million.

Current Situation

Alberta Ferretti Spring 2017 Collection Milan Fashion Week
Spring 2017 Collection Milan Fashion Week

To keep up with the new trends in the luxury market, the Pre-fall 2017 collection included a capsule called Rainbow Week, which was available for See-Now-Buy-Now sale. Rainbow Week is brand’s first capsule knitwear collection which includes seven sweaters in different colours with the day of week written on them. The sweaters were endorsed on runway by both men and women, which reflect the other tendency in fashion world, gender fluidity.

Today AEFFE is a corporate group that generates more than €200 million in revenues per year, employs 1,300 and produces 2 million garments a year, distributed in a network of 190 single-brand stores and over 6500 selected points of sale.

GIANFRANCO FERRÉ

Gianfranco Ferré, the “Architect of Fashion”, is an Italian designer. In 1978, together with Mattioli, he established Gianfranco Ferré S.p.a.

Index

  1. Biography
    1. The Debut
    2. The First Collection
    3. A Brilliant Career
    4. The Last Years
  2. Events, Exhibitions and Projects
    1. 70s
    2. 80s
    3. 90s
    4. Early 2000s
  3. Awards & Recognitions
    1. 70’s/80’s
    2. 90’s
    3. Early 2000s

Biography

Gianfranco Ferré was born in Legnano (Milan) on August 15, 1944.

After earning his high school diploma specializing in sciences, he enrolled in the School of Architecture at the Milan Polytechnic Institute. In 1969 he graduated, presenting a thesis on the “Methodology of the Approach to Composition” with Franco Albini, an architect, as his major professor.

Gianfranco Ferre Dressing Model 1982
Gianfranco Ferre Dressing Model in 1982

The Debut

His very first, quite off-hand entry into the world of fashion took place in the same years. Ferré designed jewelry and accessories that he would then give to friends and classmates. Rosy Biffi, a true talent scout as well as the owner of one of Milan’s edgiest boutiques, had occasion to notice the creations. She mentioned them to Ileana Pareto Spinola and Anne Sophie Benazzo, two women who were so impressed by these handcrafted items that they suggested buyers might take an interest in them. At that point prominent Italian fashion editors (initially, Anna Piaggi and Anna Riva) happened to spy the creations. This led to coverage in major specialty mags and in 1971 one of the accessories appeared on the cover of the Italian monthly “Arianna”. Ferré’s early debut on the scene proved very successful. It even attracted the attention of leading Italian journalist Camilla Cederna, who talked about Ferré in her weekly column for the newsmagazine “L’Espresso”.

India

In 1973, the young architect-designer made the first of his many trips to India, where up until 1977 he spent long periods working for the Genoa-based San Giorgio Impermeabili clothing company owned by the Borelli family. In India he designed and had manufactured the company’s “Ketch” collection.  At the same time, he had the chance to visit every part of the country and to study local craftsmanship and production potential, also on behalf of the Indian government. Ferré fell literally under the spell of India, a land where he consolidated his professional training and embarked on his creative path. From India he learned a fundamental lesson of life, all about the colors, scents and shapes forming a whole with feelings, sensations and emotions. It’s a lesson that he would later transfer to and instill inextricably in his collections, through his own remarkable way of reminiscing and remembering.

The First Collection

In the same years, during his stays in Italy, he did free-lance work designing accessories for prominent fashion names such as Walter Albini and Christiane Bailly, as well as knitwear and swimwear for other companies in the sector. His swimsuits debuted on the catwalk at the “MareModa Capri” event, winning a prize that marked the first of many the designer would earn throughout the course of his career.

In 1974, Gianfranco Ferré began designing his first collections, hosting his first fashion shows, in particular for the “Courlande” and the “Baila” labels , the latter which belonged to Franco Mattioli, a Bolognese industrialist who in 1978 would become his business partner.

A Brilliant Career

In May of 1978, in fact, the Gianfranco Ferré company was set up on Via San Damiano in Milan (later the headquarters would move to Via della Spiga). In October of the same year, Ferré presented his debut signature women’s ready-to-wear collection with a show at the Principe di Savoia Hotel in Milan, truly a thrilling moment.

In addition to the launch of the men’s clothing line in 1982 , and to the introduction of a wide range of accessories and other products on license in partnership with leading companies in the various respective sectors, Ferré made a mark with two other key experiences: the creation of his own Alta Moda collection (1986-1989) and his extraordinary adventure at the finest and most storied of French fashion houses.

In 1983, he helped to develop the curriculum for Domus Academy, the new Milan-based Design, Design Management and Fashion Design Post-graduate School where up until 1989 he taught the course in Dress Design: analysis of dress design and relation to changing fashion, analysis of the design project from start to finish.

In May of 1989, Gianfranco Ferré was appointed Artistic Director of Christian Dior for the women’s Haute Couture, Prêt à Porter and Fourrure lines. Confirmation of the Dior appointment up to 1996 came in 1993.

Gianfranco Ferre Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 96 Show in France
Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 96 Show in France

In the fall of 1998, on the occasion of the brand’s twentieth anniversary a series of events important for the company’s future culminated with the grand opening in Milan of the new headquarters on Via Pontaccio: in the former Gondrand building, after a total renewal based on the initial project by Marco Zanuso, then completed by Franco Raggi both on the level of the executive project and interior architecture.

The Last Years

In 2002, the Gianfranco Ferré Company was acquired by Tonino Perna’s IT Holding Group. Gianfranco Ferré became Artistic Director of the house.

In March of 2007, Gianfranco Ferré was appointed President of the Brera Fine Arts Academy in Milan.

After suffering a brain hemorrhage, Gianfranco Ferré died in Milan on June 17, 2007.

Events, Exhibitions and Projects

70’s

1975: Creation of garments for SNIA’s “Dressing in Jersey” project

1976: Creation of garments for the project “Pizzi e Rasi” of SNIA, Milan; creation of garments for the project “The day of a child” by Leacril Montefibre, Milan; creation of garments for the project “New signatures for new projects” of SNIA, Milan

1977: Creation of garments for the “SNIA per 6 sports” project, Milan

1978 / ’79: Creation of garments for the “Zegna Baruffa” yarns at Pitti Filati, Florence; event – fashion show for “Saks Fifth Avenue“, New York

80’s

Gianfranco Ferre FW 87 Photographed by Herb Ritts
Fall/Winter 87 Photographed by Herb Ritts

1981: Creation of the representation uniform for Lea Pedini, Capitana del Popolo, Regent of the Republic of San Marino, worn on the occasion of the inaugural ceremony, Milan.

1982: Participation in the exhibition “Intimate Architecture: Contemporary Clothing Design”, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Boston; Fashion show at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), linked to the exhibition “Intimate Architecture: Contemporary Clothing Design”, Boston; participation in the “Design in Italian Society in the Eighties” exhibition: traveling exhibition in the USA, by the La Jolla Museum of Contemporary Art, San Diego

1983: Sponsorship of the restoration of the Guercino frescoes in the dome of the Duomo of Piacenza; participation in the exhibition “Creators of Italian Fashion 1920-1980” at the Daimaru and Costume Museums of the Academy of Fashion and Costume, Osaka and Tokyo; participation in the “The Best Five” event, annually organized by the Japanese newspaper Asahi Shimbun and by WWD Japan, Tokyo; parade-night event in Piazza Santo Stefano, Bologna

1984: Event – “Gianfranco Ferré” fashion show, in the setting of Osaka Castle; participation in the exhibition “Il genio antipatico” at the Galoppatoio of Villa Borghese, Rome; participation in the “Alla Moda di Torino” Convention; event-fashion show at the “Modewoche”, Munich; project of a carpet for Sisal, exhibited at the exhibition “Italian design for the western carpet”, on the occasion of the Salone del Mobile, Milan; project for B & B Italia, to dress sofas and armchairs of the series “Gli abiti”, designed by Paolo Nava, Milan; costumes for the theater “Tamara”, Los Angeles and New York; creation of T-shirts for “T-show. History and new styles in the T-Shirt “, project realized by the Cotonificio Cantoni textile group, Legnano

1985: Participation in the “Italia. The Genius of Fashion”, New York; exhibition at the Museo Civico Medievale, Bologna; participation in the “RENart” project, a series of free and different interpretations of the Renault Supercinque model, with Alessandro Mendini, Mario Merz, Ugo Nespolo, Michelangelo Pistoletto, Paolo Portoghesi, Franco Maria Ricci and Ettore Sottsass, Milan

1986: Participation in “Italia: il Genio della Moda”, exhibition curated by Pia Soli, Milan; costumes for “This is the Arena, Maria Callas was born here”, a charity evening for aid to Third World countries, Verona; fashion show at Trinità dei Monti, with a selection of garments from the Gianfranco Ferré Alta Moda Fall / Winter collection 1986-87, Rome

1987: Event for the presentation of the “Gianfranco Ferré” Women’s Perfume in Greece at the Hotel Grande Bretagne, Athens; event for the inauguration of the Gianfranco Ferré boutique, Rome; participation in the RAI television event, organized by the magazine “Moda” of Edizioni E.R.I. at the Gardens of Villa Reale, Milan; fashion show at the Yurakucho Asahi Hall on the occasion of the opening of the boutique in Sonnette Aoyama, Tokyo

1988: Participation in the “Tartan” exhibition at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York; participation in the “Moda Italia” exhibition organized in collaboration with ICE, New York; participation in “Progetto Uomo ’88” organized by Saga Furs and dedicated to men’s fur, Milan

1989: Participation – the only fashion designer – at “Italian Manifesto”, 39th International Design Conference, Aspen; lecture: “The path of the project”; creation of garments for “Lana Gatto” collection A / W 89-90 at Pitti Filati, Florence; participation in the “La Moda Italiana for the Floriani Foundation” event with Gianfranco Ferré Fourrures, Milan; sponsorship of the project of the European School of Oncology aimed at creating the Foundation of the same School, aimed at financing its activities, Milan; participation in the “La Moda Italiana for the Floriani Foundation” event with Gianfranco Ferré Fourrures, Venice; charity event in favor of the Italian Association for Cancer Research at Palazzo Butera, Palermo

90’s

Gianfranco Ferre 1990
Gianfranco Ferre 1990

1990: Creation of a new mask for the Ambrosian Carnival proposed in the exhibition at Palazzo Dugnani, Milan; participation in “The Art of Fashion”, Diana Vreeland Fund for Exhibitions of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; participation in the exhibition “Moments of Italian design in industry and fashion”, Seoul; participation in the “Florence dreams” event in the Loggia of the Uffizi Gallery, Florence; participation in the “Italia ’90” fashion show, with clothes inspired by Europe, at the San Siro Stadium, Milan; creation of mink garments for the American Legend show, Palazzo della Ragione, Milan; event-fashion show for “Association of Total Fashion”, Tokyo

1991: Participation in the International Textile Forum, organized by the Ratti Foundation, Como; lecture: “Stilism and creativity before the challenges of the new millennium”; charity evening in favor of ANLAIDS – Lombarda section with Gianfranco Ferré fashion show and Gino Paoli concert, Galleria Theater, Legnano; fashion show at the opening of the Gianfranco Ferré boutique in Washington D.C

1992: Participation in the first “Convivio”, as promoter with Armani, Valentino and Versace, Milan; “Gianfranco Ferré” fashion show and launch of the “Ferré by Ferré” perfume at the Opéra Comique, Paris; event-show “Das Gesicht 92”, Berlin

1993: “Chic ’93” event, promoted by the China Tiangong Clothing Science & Technological Development Group, Beijing; “Gianfranco Ferré Uomo” fashion show at the Stazione Leopolda, Florence; guest of honor at the inauguration of the “Creative Haus“, Duesseldorf

1994: Heads exhibited in the exhibition “Japonism in Fashion” at the National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto; participation in the Ravenna Festival, Ravenna; lecture: “Dreams and visions”; participation in “The Fashion Group International Night of Stars”: special tribute to Bernardine Morris, New York; participation in the Enka Viscose project “Creativity at the Opera”, Milan

1995: “AIDS Project Los Angeles” event-show at Century Plaza Hotel, Los Angeles; event-fashion show at the National Palace of Culture, Sofia; “Rédacteur en chef” of the special Christmas issue of “Le Point”, Paris; participation in the exhibition “Between Fashion and Design. Infinite line “at the Palazzo della Triennale, Milan; Studio 000.1 event by Ferré, New York; creation of a dress for the fashion show “Fashion’s world health to peace”, Caesarea / Israel; creation of a quilted stole for the project “A heart for a friend” by ANLAIDS, Milan

1996: Gieffeffe perfume launch event at Saks Fifth Avenue, New York and San Francisco; lecture: “Créateur and couturier experience”, Fashion Institure of Technology, New York; exhibition of drawings, Academy of Art College, San Francisco; participation in the Second International Forum on car style, Turin; lecture: “Design in Fashion”; participation in the first Fashion Biennial “Time and Fashion”, installations in the Cappelle Medicee, Florence; creation of a Christmas gateau exclusively for Lenôtre, Paris

1997: Sponsorship of the F.A.I. event al Castello di Masino “The elegance of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, historical clothes from the Masino Gallery of the Costume of Florence”; participation in the seminar of courses in “Theories and techniques of Architecture” at the Polytechnic, Milan; lecture: “Composition and Fashion”; “Ferré Week”, with a show at the “Sezon Theater”, Tokyo; exhibition “A white story”, Seibu Ikebukuro, Tokyo; lecture: “Designing the subject”, United Nation University, Tokyo; lecture: “The jewel between East and West. A path between design and fantasy “, Domus Academy, Milan; creation of clothes for Dario Fo, winner of the Nobel Prize for Literature, and for his wife Franca Rame, Stockholm; creation of a sheepskin blouson for the charity event “21 designers rething shearling for benefit”, Paris; creation of a denim blouson for DIFFA – Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS “, Dallas

1998: Lecture: “Fashion in the Present, Fashion in the Future: the Values ​​of Creativity” Association for Development in the Fashion Industry, University of Bologna, Bologna; participation in the final plenary session of IAF 1998, Palazzo dei Congressi, Florence; lecture: “The consumer at the center of the fashion designer’s strategy”; opening of the headquarters in Via Pontaccio 21, Milan; party to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the “Gianfranco Ferré” label, Milan; “Immaginario” exhibition-labyrinth in via Pontaccio, Milan; fashion show and charity event in favor of British Red Cross, Banqueting House, Whitehall, London; lecture: “Designing the subject”, Central Saint Martin’s College of Arts & Design, London; participation in the “Intimare” exhibition with the collection “Gianfranco Ferré Underwear” Uomo e Donna, Bologna; fashion show of the GFF Donna Fall / Winter 1998-99 collection, Teatro Franco Parenti, Milan

1999: “F & F” project: packaging for the “Brunello da Montalcino Riserva 2000”, production by Marchesi Frescobaldi, Milan, Berlin, New York, Tokyo; event of Ideacomo, Villa d’Este, Cernobbio; exhibition “Fifteen years of partnership with Sàfilo”, via Via Pontaccio, Milan; costumes for the Biennale Danza created for Carla Fracci and Carolyn Carlsson, Venice; creation of a leather model for the sprinter Marion Jones for the “Tag Heuer” exhibition, Milan; participation as a guest of honor at “Donna sotto le stelle” at Trinità dei Monti, to celebrate 20 years of activity, Rome; creation of costumes for “Le ballet du cadre noir de Saumur” with the étoile Patrick Dupont at the Stade de France, Paris; participation in the “Furtherfantasy” photo exhibition organized by Vogue Italia at the Galleria Giò Marconi, Milan; participation in the exhibition “50 anos de mode italiana”organized by the National Chamber of Fashion Italy, curated by Fiorella Galgano, with the support of Italian and Brazilian authorities and cultural institutions in several cities of the country.

Early 2000s

2000: Participation in the “Le Teddies de l’an 2000” project in favor of British Red Cross, Montecarlo; donation of clothes and accessories from the historical archive Gianfranco Ferré to the Costume Gallery of Palazzo Pitti, Florence; exhibition “Other Emotions”: garments donated to the Costume Gallery of Palazzo Pitti, in an exhibition by Margherita Palli, Florence; donation of archive items to the Fashion Institute of Technology, exhibited at the exhibition “The Corset Fashioning The Body” at the F.I.T. New York; creation of personalized labels for Evian mineral water bottles at Milano Moda Donna AI 2000/01; participation in the “Momi Intimo Designers” event, Fiera Milano

2001: Heads exhibited at the exhibition “Uniform. Order and disorder”at the Stazione Leopolda, Florence; guest of honor at the “Shanghai International Fashion Culture Festival”, Shanghai; lecture: “Creativity and working method”, Fashion Institute, Dong Hua University, Shanghai; event-fashion show at the Museum of Art History, Vienna; participation in the exhibition “Silk. The twentieth century in Como “, organized by the Antonio Ratti Foundation in Villa Olmo, Como; participation in the exhibition “The Entertainers. The power of accessories” at the Stazione Leopolda, Florence; participation in the “Frock and Roll” fashion charity event, organized by Naomi Campbell and Harvey Goldsmith in favor of the “Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund”, together with Alexander Mc Queen, Barcelona; dresses from different collections selected by Luca Ronconi for the “Phoenix” show by Marina Cvetaeva, Piccolo Teatro, Milan; “Gianfranco Ferré Style for men” event in collaboration with Esquire USA, with a still-life display of garments and accessories from the different lines by Man designer, New York

Gianfranco Ferre 2002 Fall/Winter Collection
2002 Fall/Winter Collection

2002: “The Best of Gianfranco Ferré” fashion show at the headquarters via Pontaccio, Milan; joining Poste Italiane’s initiative: series of “Design Italiano Alta Moda” stamps, Milan

2003: “Gianfranco Ferré” fashion show-run at the Jeau de Paume Museum, Paris; event for the opening of the spa “E’SPA Gianfranco Ferré” in the renovated boutique in via Sant’Andrea, Milan; event-fashion show with the direction of Asia Argento for the debut of the GF FERRE ‘Donna e Uomo line at Superstudio +, Milan; event-parade of garments inspired by the female characters of opera, State Opera, Vienna; garments exhibited at the Musée des Tissus in the “50 and de mode Italian” exhibition, Lyon; leaders exhibited at the exhibition “Noches Italianas: trajes de excepcion para mujeres extraordinarias” (1950-1990) “hosted in museums in Latin America; guest of “The Monday of Milanese friends” at the Center Culturel Français, Milan; lecture: “The tailor of the two cities”; participation in the “GenovanversaeviceversA” exhibition, promoted by the Modemuseum, with clothes, fabrics and accessories, Antwerp; dresses from different collections selected by Luca Ronconi for the show “Peccato sia sia un sgualdrina” by John Ford on stage at the Piccolo Teatro, Milan; participation in the “Pigotte d’Autore” project, with a charity auction for Unicef, Reggio Emilia; participation as guest of honor at the inauguration of the exhibition “I mantelli delle Castellane” at the headquarters of the Banca di Legnano; event – “Oiseaux d’art” exhibition with an exhibition of the works of the artist Gregory Morizeau in the Gianfranco Ferré boutique in Milan; presentation dinner of the “Essence d’Eau” Women’s perfume in the Gianfranco Ferré offices, Milan; creation of representation seals for football club FC Bayern Muenche

Gianfranco Ferre 2004 Fall/Winter Collection
2004 Fall/Winter Collection

2004: Protagonist and guest of honor of the “Life Ball” event-show, 2004, Vienna; items exhibited at the “Excess” exhibition at the Stazione Leopolda, Florence; participation in the TV event “La notte delle stelle” at the Teatro Ariston, Sanremo; participation in the “La mode dessine l’espoir” project, at the invitation of the “Dessine l’espoir” association and under the patronage of the French Ministry of Culture, Paris; supply of archival clothing as costumes for “Peccato alle puttana” by John Ford, directed by Luca Ronconi for the Piccolo Teatro, Milan; opening event of the Gianfranco Ferré boutique on Madison Avenue, followed by dinner at “Le Grenouille”, New York City; participation in the “Carousel Ball of Hope’s Toy Car” solidarity project promoted by Mercedes Benz for the Children’s Diabetes Foundation, Los Angeles; participation in the fashion event organized by Ferrari and the Italian National Chamber of Fashion, Shanghai

2005: Creation of flight and ground personnel uniforms for Korean Air, Seoul; participation in the “Una notte a Roma” television event in Piazza Navona, Rome; fashion show-event for “Fashion in Motion”, Victoria & Albert Museum, London; guest of honor of “Festa Italiana”, Mumbai and New Delhi; creation of uniforms for the hostesses of “Première Vision”, Milan; participation in the “West looks East” solidarity show-event, Washington; participation in the exhibition “The thread becomes history”, organized in the Costume Gallery at Palazzo Pitti on the occasion of the thirty years of Lineapiù, Florence; “stamp” creation for the ten years of “Io Donna”, Milan; launch of the “Gianfranco Ferré Special Order” project: creation of evening garments in different sizes and colors from those presented on the catwalk for individual clients, Milan

2006: Event-fashion show for the inauguration of the Boscolo Hotel in the historic building of the New York Café, Budapest; exhibition “MEx32”, with the creation of 32 T-shirts inspired by the countries participating in the World Soccer Championships, proposed in the Gianfranco Ferré, Florence and Milan boutiques; participation in the “Human Game” exhibition at the Stazione Leopolda, Florence; participation in the “Genio y Figura” exhibition at the Museo del Traje, Madrid; participation in the “Passion for fashion” TV show-event at the Manoel Island, Valletta; participation in “Luxury Conference 2006” organized by the International Herald Tribune at the Sheraton Hotel, Istanbul; lecture: “Exotic inspirations”; solidarity event in favor of the Francesca Nava Foundation: a show by René Fleming at the Teatro alla Scala and a gala dinner at the Gianfranco Ferré headquarters in honor of the soprano, Milan

2007: Sponsorship of the restoration of the painting “Adamo crying Abel” by Johan Karl Loth, exhibited at the Uffizi Gallery, Florence; Donna AI 2007/2008 fashion show: the rock singer Skin wears a top studded with authentic diamonds, at the fashion show follows a live concert at the headquarters in Via Pontaccio, Milan; TV show-event at the Lufti Kirdar Convention and Exhibition Center on the occasion of the first edition of the “Fashion TV Turkey Awards”, Istanbul; lecture: “The forms of emotions. Shaping emotions” at the Faculty of Architecture, Politecnico, Milan; creation of a wedding ring for the exhibition “Eternal Platinum – The ultimate Symbol of Love”, hosted at the Palazzo della Triennale, Milan; October: Participation in the exhibition “Contro Moda. The contemporary fashion of the permanent collection of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art”, Palazzo Strozzi, Florence

Awards and Recognitions

70s / 80s

1976: July, Capri: “Tiberio d’oro”, prize of “MareModa Capri”

1982: October, Milan: “Golden Eye” for the best women’s collection P / E1983

1983: March, Milan: “Golden Eye” for the best women’s collection A / W 83-84; November, Tokyo: “The Best Five”, recognition of the Japanese newspaper Asahi Shimbun and WWD Japan

1984: September, Genoa: recognition of the Chamber of Commerce; October, Milan: “Occhio d’oro” for the best women’s spring / summer collection in 1985; November, Hollywood: Recognition for the costumes of the theatrical piece “Tamara”

1985: March, Munich: “Modepreis”, as the best fashion designer of the year for women’s fashion; April, Bologna: Recognition of the Municipality; May, Mantova: recognition of the “Gazzetta di Mantova”, as part of the “Fashion Awards” event; June, New York: “Cutty Sark Men’s Fashion Award”, as the best fashion designer of the year for men’s fashion; September, Varese, Golf Club: Cup for participation in the collection of vintage bouts and Haute Couture; December, Milan, Palazzo Marino: “Ambrogino d’Oro”, medal of civic merit of the City of Milan

1986: January, Rome, Palazzo del Quirinale: honor of “Commendatore of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic”, by the President of the Republic Sen. Francesco Cossiga; March, Milan: “Golden Eye” award for the best women’s collection A / W 86-87; May, Bologna: plate of “Linea Pelle” to recognize the creative commitment; May, Palermo: AIRC recognition from the City of Palermo; November, Legnano: “Tessera d’Oro” of the Legnanese Family

1987: arzo, Milan: “Occhio d’oro” for the best women’s collection A / W 87-88; May, Tokyo: plate of the “Association of Total Fashion”; November, Legnano: recognition of the Legnano Lions Club and Legnano Carroccio Lions Club in joint session; Turin: “Cavour d’Argento” award. City of Turin”

1988: April, Busto Arsizio: Rotary Professional Award

1989: May, Milan: “Telegatto” Prize, among others awarded, Giulio Andreotti and Enzo Biagi; July, Paris, Palais Galliera Gardens: “Dé d’or” after the first Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior, as the best couturier of the season; July, Rome: special recognition as a fashion character in 1989, by the Associazione di via Borgognona; September, Ischia: “Modaischia 1989” award; November, Legnano: certificate of civic merit of the City of Legnano; December, Milan: “Occhio d’oro” which consecrates the “signature of the year of Italian fashion”; December, Milan nominates “Milanese of the Year” from the “Meneghina Family”

90’s

Gianfranco Ferre Vogue Sep 1991 AD Featuring Aly Dunne Photographed by Gianpaolo Barbieri
Vogue Sep 1991 AD Featuring Aly Dunne Photographed by Gianpaolo Barbieri

1990: March, Milan: “The great protagonists”, prize of the “Italian Fur Association”; June, Milan: recognition for participation in Italy ’90; October, Florence Palazzo Vecchio: “Lorenzo the Magnificent”, award of the “Medicean International Academy”

1991: prile, Legnano: recognition of the Busto Arsizio Cisalpino Lions Club; June, Florence, Palazzo Vecchio: “Il Fiorino d’oro” award, from the City of Florence; June, Los Angeles: Recognition of the County of Los Angeles and Music Center of the County of Los Angeles

1992: September, Mexico D.F .: “El sol de oro”, recognition of the Circulo Nacional de Periodistas as “Creador de la elegancia y distinction en European fashion”; December, Vienna: “Diva-Wollsiegel”, IWS award in collaboration with the magazine “Diva”

1993: May, Beijing: appointment to “Senior Adviser” from the “China Tiangong Clothing Science & Technological Development Group and National Garments Research”; official meeting with the President of the People’s Republic of China, Jan Zemin, in the Forbidden City; June, Florence, Palazzo Vecchio: “Pitti Immagine Uomo”, special prize of Pitti Immagine; November, Milan: “Paul Harris Fellow”, Rotary International Rotary Foundation Award

1994: May, Baveno: Lions Club “recognition” plaque; September, New York: “The Fashion Group International” award; November, Campione d’Italia: “Maschera d’oro”, from the Mayor of the City of Campione

1995: May, Los Angeles.Century Plaza: “Crystal Apple Award” special award of the “California Fashion Industry Friends of Aids Project Los Angeles”; November, Milan: “Circolo degli Incontri” plaque, awarded annually to Milanese personalities distinguished in the field of Art and Culture

1996: September, New York and San Francisco: recognition for the participation in the special events Saks Fifth Avenue dedicated to Gianfranco Ferré; October, Milan: “Masters of Linen” special prize of the “European Confederation of Linen and Hemp”

1997: May, Legnano: “Always Licenses” award from the city’s State Scientific Liceo

1999: March, Como, Palazzo Cernezzi: delivery of the City of Como’s keys by the Mayor; March, Como, Villa’D’este “Certificate of Ideacomo” in recognition of his talent and his culture; March, Milan: “Fur Fashion Award – special 50 years” special prize of the “Italian Fur Association”; July, Rome: award of the “National Chamber of Italian Fashion” for twenty years of activity, during the event “Woman under the stars”

Early 2000s

2000: November, Legnano: card of the “Legnanese Family” “Member in the fiftieth year”

2001: April, Shanghai: appointment to “Senior Adviser of Garment Arts” by the Mayor of the City of Shanghai; May, Legnano: Grand Priory of the Contrada della Flora

2002: June, Milan: frieze from the Municipality of Milan

2003: November, Düsseldorf: “Kinder in Not”, UNESCO special prize

Gianfranco Ferre Receiving Awards 2004
Gianfranco Ferre Receiving Awards 2004

2004: March, Berlin, “Star Diamond Award” of “American Academy of Hospitality Sciences” for E’SPA at Gianfranco Ferré; April, Milan: “Silver lady”, prize of the “Association of Friends of the Poldi Pezzoli Museum” awarded to “Men and Women Who Make Great Milan”; September, Sanremo: recognition for participation in “Sanremo Fashion”; September, Milan: career award from “Chi è Chi del giornalismo e della moda”

2005: February, Milan, Teatro alla Scala: “Sigillo Longobardo”, from the Lombardy Regional Council

2006: July, Milan: “Certificate of Appreciation” by the Lions District 108Ib1

2007: March, Milan: appointment as President of the Brera Academy of Fine Arts

FURLA

Furla began in 1927 in Bologna, Italy. Now, the company produces Italian-designed products that range from handbags and shoes to accessories.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. The Style
  3. Success in Italian and Abroad Markets
  4. Fondazione Furla
  5. Brand expansion
    1. Furla Goes Public
  6. 90th Anniversary
  7. Current Situation

The Origin

Furla is an Italian leather company that was established in Bologna in a historic 18th century villa in the 1927 by  Aldo and Margherita Fulanetto. At first, the company distributed clothing and accessories, then over the years began to manufacture bags, shoes, and leather accessories.

Furla Headquarters in Bologna
Headquarters in Bologna

In 1955 Aldo opened the first Furla store on Via Ugo Bassi in the heart of Bologna and the brand began to grow. By the 70s the second generation, siblings Carlo, Paolo and Giovanna Furlanetto, took position. Paolo and Carlo took responsibility of the growth of the company, while Giovanna decides the creative direction. At this time the company launched the first handbag and accessories collection with the furla logo. The company took a shift towards the design and production of exclusive leather items. By the 80s the brand has stores in Bologna, Rome, Paris and New York.

The Style

The Furla collections are Made in Italy and embody the Italian craftsmanship, but with a modern twist. They use prized leathers, and have created a special tanning process with an emphasis on detail, supported by the latest technology. The products embody Italian lifestyle and bring that to all parts of the world.

Furla Iconic Metropolis Bag
Iconic Metropolis Bag

Accessible luxury has always been the brand’s focus strategy, especially for emerging markets. By adopting contemporary and functional to its design philosophy, creating a glamorous and joyful lifestyle, Furla has engaged with its customers successfully. Brand’s global best seller Metropolis handbag, a clean and liner design, produced from fine materials and pure italian craftsmanship but only cost around €250, it has made luxury affordable.

Success in Italian and Abroad Markets

By 1998 the company reached sales of about €40 million, and had distribution all over the world, with 56 single-brand boutiques in Italy and 24 abroad. In February 2000 the opening of the French market increased sales by 35% compared to 1999. Also during this year, the company founded the “Premio Furla Per L’Arte”, with the purpose to provide visibility to Italian emerging artists.

In February 2002 the company enters the teen, which marked the birth of Furlina, a teenage comic strip character who appears on bags, accessories, and watches. A year later the company sees growth in the domestic market, which was the goal of Giovannna Furlanetto. The corporate strategy for achieving it includes a program that will open two boutiques in Sardinia, in Fort Village and Cagliari, and two in Sicily, in Syracuse and Taormina. Then, in 2007, Eraldo Poletto was appointed the first non-family member chief executive officer.

Fondazione Furla

Fondazione Furla
Fondazione Furla

In 2008 Fondazione Furla is created and supports the Premio Furla per l’Arte award aimed at emerging Italian artists on the contemporary scene. Another important project supported by Giovanna Furlanetto is the Furla Talent Hub, in cooperation with Alta Roma, a reservoir of young and talented designers who have the chance to compete for the creation of a line of shoes for the label.

In the same year, the company launched the male collection, its first shoe line, designed by Max Kibardin, and starts exploring announced that the company signed an agreement with Tamburi Investment Partners, and ready to go public in 2017, become one of few Italian companies to be listed.

In 2013 Italy and Asia-Pacific (especially Japan) represents Furla strongest markets. Handbags sales further increase in 2014 , exceeding their double.

Brand Expansion

Starting from 2014, Furla made significant marketing push, by collaborating with established fashion photographer Mario Testino and his agency. Furla built a 360 degree communication project to reset the tone of voice and brand image. A huge investment was made to support ad campaign to be seen on all kinds of media, including outdoor billboards, press, videos, social media, in store and PR purposes.

Furla Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Mario Testino
Spring/Summer 2015 Campaign by Mario Testino

Furla opened 111 new shops worldwide in last two years, and 60% of Furla retail network is fully owned by the company.  The year 2014 closed with a consolidated turnover of €262 million, and achieved 15% increase compared to 2013.

In 2015 Furla continued to expand its distribution network, in the first half of the year, the company opened 39 new stores, as a result, sales were increased 30% to €151.2 million in the first half of 2015. Japan remains Furla’s most important market. Meanwhile, Furla reached its goal and opened one brand new flagship store in New York.

Furla New York Fifth Avenue Flagship Store
New York Fifth Avenue Flagship Store

Also at this time, the company appointed former C.Wonder retail executive Scott Links as its new CEO of the US department. With the aiming to becoming a lifestyle brand, now Furla has added new product categories such as women’s shoes, men’s leather goods, accessories, sunglasses, jewelry and watches.

Furla goes Public

The brand closed 2015 with a consolidated turnover of €339 million, and 80% come from abroad markets. In May 2016 Eraldo Poletto, CEO, left Furla. 

90th Anniversary

Furla 90th Anniversary Capsule Collection
90th Anniversary Capsule Collection

In 2017 Furla celebrated its 90th anniversary by launching a limited collection of its best seller Metropolis handbag during Milan Fashion Week. This limited collection are based on five different colors and nine changeable flaps to narrated a story of music style across 90 years, and each bag represented one iconic music style in every decade. The limited collection was revealed e-commerce. Selling online strengthened the brand, leading to the opening of new concept stores in Milan and abroad and an increase of sales of 45% in three years (2010-2013).

Current Situation

Furla Spring Summer 2017 Campaign
Spring/Summer 2017 Campaign

By 2018 Furla’s network reaches over 1600 points of sales globally, of which 1200 are multi-brand and department stores, and the rest 444 mono-brand store are operating across 100 countries, located in most prestigious shopping area. In addition, brand’s expanded distribution strategy is set to continue throughout 2017.

FRATELLI ROSSETTI

In 1953, Renzo Rossetti, along with his brother Renato, opened their first shoe factory in Parabiago, which later developed into their brand known as Fratelli Rossetti.

Index

  1. The Origin: Renzo & Renato Rossetti
  2. Signature Moccasin Brera
  3. the Flexa Shoe
  4. The Fratelli Rossetti Family
    1. Renzo Rossetti Museum
  5. Brand Development
  6. Current Situation

The Origin: Renzo & Renato Rossetti

In 1953, Renzo Rossetti, along with his brother Renato, opened their first shoe factory in Parabiago, which later developed into their brand known as Fratelli Rossetti. Then, the company was officially established in 1955 by the Rossetti brothers, who were born in Sanguinetto, near Verona. The brothers first created sport shoes then moved on to formal shoes.

Fratelli Rossetti Founder Renzo Rossetti
Founder Renzo Rossetti

Renzo began working at the age of 13, and was a typographer, mechanical draftsman, and artisanal producer of shoes for cyclists. Success came through the artisanal perfection. Renzo exclaims,

“We have always worked as if we had to personally answer to the customer for every pair of shoes we sell him.”

This includes innovation applied to a classic style. In the book I Mass-Moda. Fatti e Personaggi dell’Italian Look (Spinelli Publishers, 1979), Adriana Mulassano says “Men, poor things, as to shoes, were really in a bad way.” The market wouldn’t offer anything other than laced shoes with fringes and ‘derbies’, in black or brown calfskin. There were no new seasonal styles and no imagination. And so they started: the banning of laces, the promotion of loafers, the launch of the first very soft unlined shoes to be worn in summer without socks, the marketing of boots, higher heels, and the introduction of colors through an ageing process that would make them more acceptable.

Signature Moccasin Brera

Fratelli Rossetti Iconic Brera Shoes
Iconic Brera Moccasin

In 1961, their signature moccasin, Brera, was created. Success was such that in 1966 Fratelli Rossetti was forced to expand and build a very modern production plant.

In the 70’S, Fratelli Rossetti, collaborated with the much celebrated Italian designers like Valentino, Armani, and Pierre Cardin, combining creativity and production results.

The first women’s line was created in 1973. Single-brand boutiques followed one after another in Genoa, Venice, Milan (at via Matteotti-via Montenapoleone), Bari, Rome, Paris, and Chicago. Diego, Renzo’s son, joined the family business in 1978. Under his direction, Fratelli Rossetti was the first Italian fashion label to open a boutique on Madison Avenue in New York. Today he is company Chairman.

Dario began working in the style department in 1981, he attended an artistic university with courses for shoemaking. He is an art lover who collects antiques and is passionate about vintage cars and searching for inspiration for new creations to add to the collections. In the Nineties, Luca graduated from Milan’s Bocconi University, and was already involved in the management side of the business. At this time, all three brothers were involved in the business.

The Flexa Shoe

They recently created the Flexa shoe, a 18 piece hand-assembled which adjust to the foot’s movement thanks to unusual flexibility and a removable foot-strap.

The historic shoe factory in Parabiago, near Milan manufactures more than 400,000 pairs of shoes a year, with a turnover that in the late 1990s was about 70 billion liras. Some 50% of the production is sold in Italy and the rest is exported. Each year about 10% goes to the U.S., where the company has been active for more than twenty years and where, in June 1999, it opened a large showroom on Madison Avenue in New York.

Fratelli Rossetti Flexa Shoes
Flexa Shoes

In May 2002 the Flexa Sailing model is created at the explicit request of Mascalzone Latino (Latin Scoundrel), the Italian boat competing in the America’s Cup. It has all the characteristics requested by the team members. The first prototypes are tested by the crew during training at Elba and in Auckland. The model goes on sale in July 2002 in two versions: the Flexa Sailing Professional, with the same technical standards as the shoe worn by the crew in the America’s Cup, and Flexa Sailing, less high-tech, for fans of sailing in general. The shoe is available in red and blue, the colors of Mascalzone Latino, and in a sand color.

In November, shoes, ankle boots, and desert boots are created in the brightest colors: red, green, and yellow; flats and heels are created for singing and dancing. In the same style as the costumes by Elisa Savi, these shoes have been designed by the Rossetti brothers for the American musical Fiddler on the Roof, which received three Oscars in its film version and had more than 3,000 performances on Broadway in New York, in London, and in Japan.

The Fratelli Rossetti Family

By 2003 the company employs 260 workers, and is one of the most important in the field regarding turnover, number of employees, and international image. The entire ownership is still in the hands of the Rossetti family. The president of the group is Renzo Rossetti, who sets long-term strategy. His three sons have other operating functions: Diego, 46, in the company for more than twenty years, is the marketing and commercial director and coordinates all the communication activities in Italy and abroad; Dario, 44, in the company for more than ten years, follows coordination, planning, modeling, and purchases; Luca, 37, a graduate of the Bocconi University in Milan, is the general manager.

The Fratelli Rossetti Brothers
The Rossetti Brothers

In February 2003 Fratelli Rossetti opens its first outlet space in Foxtown, a large multi-brand store in Mendrisio, Switzerland. The strategy chosen by Fratelli Rossetti at the beginning has not changed over the years and can be summed up in a concept that is still extremely effective even today: maximum harmony between technology and tradition, maximum equilibrium between quality and price. At this time in Italy, there are 13 boutiques. Abroad, the company’s main locations are in New York, Paris, London, Brussels, and Hong Kong.

Renzo Rossetti Museum

"One Collection" From Fratelli Museum
“One Collection” From Fratelli Museum

Renzo Rossetti opens his own museum with a rich collection of ethnic shoes accumulated over a period of 50 years in Parabiago. He began the collection at an early age, before World War II, and very much desired to see it have its own space. The museum can be visited by appointment. It has 3,000 pairs of shoes that are perfectly maintained.

Brand Development

In 2005 after the opening of a third boutique in Paris, on Rue de Grenelle, comes the début of a new franchise store in Dubai. The company has a turnover of €55 million in 2004.

In 2004 and 2008, they opened a franchise store in Dubai. As China started being the new luxury market, 2010 saw the brand opening its stores in China.  

In 2008 Fratelli Rossetti, by now a golobal brand, reinforced its international strategy by investing in the Asian market with the opening of a store in Hong Kong, followed by the opening of sales locaitons in Beijing, Hangzhou, and Shenzhen. In 2010 the group closed out the year with 14% growth in revenue with respect to 2009 (72 million in sales). In 2011 it grew another 10% with respect to the previous year.

In 2011, Fratelli Rossetti collaborated with the Californian Designer George Esquivel, combining the quality of the brand with the innovative colour matches, for their Spring/Summer collection. The same year itself, a virtual store was launched for online sales. In 2012,  the brand teamed up with NBC Sports for Super Bowl, providing commentators covering the football event with footwear.

Fratelli Rossetti "Made to Measure"Fratelli Rossetti “Made to Measure”

In the same year itself, they launched ‘made to measure’ service. Fratelli Rossetti launched a limited  edition collection for the online platform shoescribe. The ‘Toledo Experience’ was a live show to the audience showcasing the famous hand-colouring technique, happened at the Montenapoleone in Milan in 2013. To strengthen the brand’s presence in Far East, a 100 square meter store in Taiwan was opened, in the Mall of Taipei in the same year.

Current Situation

Fratelli Rossetti 2017 Campaign
Fratelli Rossetti 2017 Campaign

In 2015, the brand proposed ‘A tribute to Brera’ their iconic moccasin. The same year  the brand introduced Dandy, the derby in mirror versions. Also, #sexyinflats was a project done, dedicated to women who can feel sexy even without their heels on.  The year was closed with a turnover of €72 million year, which was 4% higher than the previous year, showing the brand has the correct direction for growth.

Fratelli Rossetti, has an aim for 2018, which is to expand itself by opening 11 stores in China. With a wide presence, the brand has expanded while retaining its values and at the same time catering to the changing demands of the fashion and the consumer.

FENDI

Fendi is a high fashion Italian company, known for its luxurious fur and leather goods. Read the history of the historic brand with the double F.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. Karl Lagerfeld Creative Director
  3. The Third Generation
  4. LVMH Acquires Fendi
  5. The Success
  6. The Recent Years
  7. Celebrating 50 Years of Collaboration with Lagerfeld
  8. Current Situation

The Origin

Italian house of furs and leather goods. One of the first brands of the Made in Italy movement to become world famous. The company was established in Rome 1925, as a small shop for leather goods, and a secret fur workshop, on via del Plebiscito. The founders, Edoardo and Adele Fendi, developed the brand, but the true success started with the second generation, represented by five sisters, Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda. They brought new energy and ideas during the boom years that caused the brand to flourish.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Fendi First Original Store in Rome
First Original Store in Rome

Karl Lagerfeld Creative Director

In 1926 Fendi opened its historic boutique in the heart of Rome in via Borgognona. In 1965, the collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld began. Lagerfeld is known for the way he transformed the concept of fur. He reinvented a garment that had traditionally been considered pompous, bulky, and not always easy to wear. With Lagerfeld as creative director, fur acquired a softness, wearability, reversibility, and became “fun fur”, a staple in the brand DNA that still exists today. At the same time, he searched for new materials, treatments, experimental techniques, and the rediscovery of forgotten and overlooked furs.

Fendi Woman Collection SS18
Woman Collection SS18

Over the years the Fendi bags became more functional. Leather was printed, dyed, and woven. The double FFs, in black and brown, were immediately recognizable and combined with stripes and squared patterns. The Selleria line, all completely handmade and in limited numbers, was created.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: 5 Fendi Sisters With Karl Lagerfeld
5 Fendi Sisters With Karl Lagerfeld

The Third Generation

In 1977 Fendi presents the Maison’s first ready-to-wear collection. In the early Ninties, the third generation, represented by Silvia Venturini Fendi, daughter of Anna, took place as Creative Director for accessories and men’s lines. She launched the Fendissime line, which included furs, sportswear, and accessories for a younger market. Two years later, they opened their first store in New York on Fifth Avenue. Meanwhile, the empire of the five sisters enriched itself with numerous licenses, including knitwear, bathing suits, jeans, umbrellas, watches, eyeglasses, ceramics, furnishings, and linens. In total, about twenty licenses, besides furs and leather goods.

At this time, about 80% of the production was exported. In Italy and abroad there were about 100 boutiques and 600 points-of-sale, with a turnover of about 600 billion liras, which put Fendi in fourth place among the brands of Italian prêt-à-porter. Fendi has created furs for both stage and screen, notably for Gruppo di Famiglia in un interno (1974) and The Innocent (1976) by Visconti, La vera storia della Dama delle Camelie (1980) by Bolognini, La Traviata (1983) by Zeffirelli, Interno Berlinese (1985) by Liliana Cavani, Carmen (1986), The Age of Innocence (1993) by Scorsese, and Evita (1996) by Parker.

Fendi Silvia Venturini with models, SS18 Man Collection
Silvia Venturini with models, SS18 Man Collection

LVMH Acquires Fendi

By the end of 1999, the company is at the center of many buying appetites. After endless sales rumors, the Maison ran under the control of Prada and Bernard Arnault, who was the owner of LVMH. LVMH, in a joint venture with Prada (Lvp Holding), acquires 51% of the company, but management remains in the hands of the Fendi family. Later on, Prada began selling its shares to LVMH, becoming in 2001 its majority shareholder.

The Success

In January 2001, Fendi collaborated in a joint venture with Aoi, a 30 years distributor of the brand in Japan. The new company, called Fendi Japan K: K, is on the market from the spring-summer 2001 collection.

Since 2002, the Men’s collection has been produced for 5 years by Ma.co. Company of So. Lather this year, they launched the made-to-order service for handmade leather goods including the famous Peekaboo bag. This gives the customers an opportunity to fully customize their bag, seen as a true luxury.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Salleria Collection Custom Service and Handmade
Galleria Collection: Custom Service and Handmade

Fendi continues to stay involved with contemporary events including the exhibit Goddess, at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, one of the most prestigious events in New York that spring, displays two dresses donated by the Fendi Archive in 2003.

Also, a special moment in April 2005 in Rome, the 18th-century palazzo Boncompagni Ludovisi becomes Palazzo Fendi. They build a new headquarters, and with its opening, the house celebrates their 80th anniversary. Later, in 2010 they launch kids wear and Fendi Home.

In the year of 2007, Fendi staged an unforgettable fashion show at the Great Wall of China with 88 models and a 1,500-mile-long catwalk.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Fendi Fashion Show at the Great Wall of China
Fendi Fashion Show at the Great Wall of China

The opening of a new boutique in Paris in 2008, however, took place with a private concert of Amy Winehouse for just 400 guests.

The Recent Years

This Italian house continues to get involved with new project and innovations. In 2011, they were chosen, due to its common values of craftsmanship and tradition, to collaborate with the Maserati “GranTurismo Convertible”. It was overlooked by Silvia Venturini Fendi and featured materials created in various colors specifically for it. It had Fendi’s double F logo stitched into the seats, in the center of the 20-inch Trident design alloy wheels, and side sills.

In 2013 the group started the restoration work of the fountains in Rome with the Fendi For Fountains project. They began with the Trevi Fountain, and followed up with the Quattro Fontane. This showed how Rome and Fendi share a deep connection. Fendi is rooted in Rome, and has always been its muse. Later, in June 2013 they sign a contract with Safilo Group S.p.A. for the production and worldwide distribution of sunglasses and eye-glasses’ frames.

As for 2014, the brand took another step towards technology. Unveiling luxurious new headphones created in collaboration with Beats by Dr. Dre. The Fendi X Beats by Dr. Dre was announced in Fendi’s Men’s Spring/Summer 2015 fashion show in Milan. Later, the brand collaborated with Zaha Hadid to create a layered leather handbag, which was part of the 3Baguette Project, a collection of creations by famous UK-based women, to be auctioned to charity.

Fendi SS18 Man Collection
SS18 Man Collection

For the first time ever, the Maison uses drones in order to video record its fashion show in 2014. Later, the fashion house buys 49% of Taramax SA’s shares, a luxury-watches- specialized business. This action will allow them to have a more important presence in the luxury-watches market.

Fendi SS18 Man Collection
SS18 Man Collection

Celebrating 50 Years of Collaboration with Lagerfeld

In 2015, under the wings of Lagerfeld, Fendi presented their first “Haute Forrure” collection during couture week in Paris. Fendi’s internationally renowned line of fur helped to differentiate the brand form its competitors as one of the few designers with a full range of fur offerings.

Later, Fendi moved its headquarters into Palazzo Civilta Italiana, which was built in 1942, to celebrate the EXPO. Unfortunately, the event was never held, but the first floor of the new building has remained a dedicated space for contemporary art exhibitions.

Fendi SS17, Bags Special Shooting
SS17, Bags Special Shooting

In the same year, Fendi payed homage to its collaboration with Lagerfeld, celebrating his 50 years as creative director, with the book “Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld” featuring exclusive material telling an amazing story of heritage, creativity, and modernity. This is the longest relationship between a designer and a luxury fashion brand in the industry.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: The Book of Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld
The Book of Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld

In 2016 they completed the restoration and opening of Palazzo Fendi in Rome, on the corner of Via dei Condotti and Piazza di Spagna. The building hosts the Japanese multi-starred Zuma restaurant inside. At the 2nd floor, there is the Fendi Privé, a private apartment for celebrities, VIPs, and friends. At the 3rd floor, there is the Fendi Private Suites, which consists of 7 imperial suites.

For their 90th anniversary, on July 7, 2016 they host their haute couture A/W 2016/2017 fashion show at the Trevi fountain (Rome), whose restoration has been supported by the Roman maison. Also, they hosted an exhibition, Fendi Roma- The Artisans of Dreams, to explain the production process of the fur and creativity elements.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Fendi Fashion Show at the Trevi Fountain
Fashion Show at the Trevi Fountain

Current Situation

Currently, the fashion house is performing strong with a turnover of more than €1 billion. With Pietro Beccari as chairman and CEO. Creative director’s Lagerfeld and Silvia continue to work side by side in the success of Fendi, remaining the only brand to have an in-house fur atelier.

Facis

Historic brand of men’s clothing, one of the symbols, in the post-war period, of the GFT group. established in 1953. It immediately became one of the main forces in the mass production of men’s clothing in Italy and Europe. Since then it has perfected a complete and diversified wardrobe, developing, since the 1970s, through the study of body sizes, an ability to satisfy the multiple requirements of wearability, offering a wide range of lengths and sizes. A custom-made service completes the variety of services offered to important customers. It is a semi-structured product, available in a wide range of personalized sizes, shapes, and heights, offered in many fabrics and styles. Through the use of pre-measured clothes and computer support with the production plants, the availability of “custom made” models is guaranteed within six days, and delivery in Italy within ten days. The heart and brains of the production are in the historic plant in Settimo Torinese. In operation since 1961 in response to growing demand resulting from the consumer boom, Settimo since then has had the record as the largest Italian and European production plant. That is where the first mass production in the history of men’s clothing got its start, with the manufacture of jackets and shirts. In Settimo Torinese, a thousand people are today employed. The Italian and foreign production is still planned there. Computer-designed models are created in this plant by a staff of 25 technicians who prepare 26 collections a year.
License agreement with Luciano Soprani for the production and distribution of men’s prêt-à-porter until 2010. Facis has 830 points-of-sale in Italy, and 320 abroad.
The Turin group GFT (Financial Textile Group), controlled by the holding company HDP, closes for good, selling its brands Facis, Valentino, and Sahzà.
After a long series of announcements and denials, 100% of Facis is sold to the Mediconf group of Palermo, owned by the Bucalo family, which is active in the production and distribution of men’s clothing in the Bucalo chain of stores. In 2002 their turnover was €130 million.
Relaunching of Facis at Pitti Uomo. The Autumn-Winter collection is by the Milanese designer Francesco Fiordelli (1963).

Foulard

From the Provenµal word foulat, in French foulé, to indicate a fabric in silk, silk and cotton, or wool that is extremely light and cut in the shape of a square with a fairly wide base. It is an accessory that is sometimes indispensable, and never completely absent from the wardrobe, a small trifle in chiffon for a breast pocket, a big silk square to knot around the neck, large, in colors, rich in motifs woven on weft and warp, or printed in patterns, to be tied on a handbag or worn as a shawl around the shoulders. It is a very important item which adds to the prestige of even the most famous griffe. In France, those by Hermès, Dior, Saint-Laurent, Chanel, and Givenchy are famous. In Italy, the most prestigious ones are by Gucci, Ferragamo, and Roberta di Camerino, followed by all the great designers of ready-to-wear, from Mila Schön to Armani and Ferré. They are manufactured for the most part in Como, in workshops which also produce for themselves, according to designs created in-house, foulards that are admired for their very rich prints in floral, abstract, and geometric patterns that are obtained through a long process of many steps according to the number of colors selected.

Fouli

Elia (1927). Photographer and art director, born in Alexandria, Egypt. After working in film, he moved to Paris. In 1952, he met Guy Bourdin. From 1958 to 1966, he worked for Elle as a fashion photographer, and then from 1970 to 1982 as artistic director, after three years spent in New York working for Condé Nast.

Frentzos

Angelos (1972). Greek designer, among the most innovative of recent years. He distinguishes himself for a very personal style which emphasizes the female silhouette and which makes a man both rigorous and extremely modern. He made his début with a women’s and men’s collection that found a place in the most prestigious boutiques in the world. From 2001 to 2003, he was art director of the historic luxury label Alma.