ROBERTO CAVALLI

Roberto Cavalli is an Italian fashion designer born in 1940. He is known for exotic prints and for creating the sand-blasted look for jeans.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. Cavalli Style
  3. Brand Development
    1. 2001 Turnover
    2. Fall/Winter 2002 Mens Collection
    3. Fall/Winter 2002 Womens Collection
    4. Roberto Cavalli Kids Collection
    5. Cavalli Watches
    6. Store Openings in US
  4. Cavalli Events
  5. 40th Anniversary
  6. Clessidra SGR Acquired Roberto Cavalli
  7. Current Situation

The Origin

Roberto Cavalli was born in 1940 and is an Italian designer. Referred to as “an artist of fashion,” perhaps to remember his grandfather who was an illustrious painter, one of the Macchiaioli, and the creator of paintings on display at the Uffizi in Florence, his hometown.

Designer Roberto Cavalli With His Models
Designer Roberto Cavalli With His Models

He attended the Academy of Fine Arts and soon became interested in the relationship between fashion and painting.  He investigated various materials in his own print shop, and at the same time experimenting with new technologies. In the 1960s he patented a revolutionary process for printing on leather then he debuted these techniques in Paris, and immediately was recognized by Hermès and Pierre Cardin. At age 32, he presented his first namesake collection at the Salon for Prêt-à-Porter in Paris.

Then, in 1972 he made his début at Palazzo Pitti with his patchworks, which are by now considered a classic of his style, and which are especially typical of his glamorous jeans. Also at this time he opened his first boutique in Saint Tropez. In 1980, Roberto Cavalli married Eva Düringer.  He owns an important art Collection with paintings from the 1400s and 1600s and has a fondness for the painters of Siena. He also likes purebreds.

Cavalli Style

Roberto Cavalli Style
Roberto Cavalli Style

The Cavalli woman has a well-defined silhouette. the Cavalli clothes are made to caresses the body, wrap it, and imprison it with often overlapping colored fabrics in fantastic patterns.

Nature is a source of inspiration for Roberto Cavalli. This includes animal skins, sequins in the shape of fish scales, waves that lose themselves in the transparencies of the fabric. The impact of his collections have always been very strong with ferocious wild beasts, angels and demons that peep out from a jacket or from trousers. Feline and witty women find their personality in Cavalli’s style, instinctual and exhibitionist.

Every style is breathtaking. For example, shorts and corsets for a Scarlet O’Hara updated to the year 2000, contoured blazers in prints of leopard, crocodile or lynx, and snake skin as a substitute for spotted patterns of every sort. Then the black of the youth gangs, from the jacket of a wild Marlon Brando to punks and heavy metal lovers. His unmistakable, elegant jackets are made out of very soft deer skin. Something lunar for his micro galactic skirts, and again baroque-patterned jeans.

Anna Falchi and Claudia Koll played the winning couple in a prêt-à-porter presentation in Milan in 1995. The presentation was full of sophisticated elegance with a touch of transgression. Stretch became ultra stretch: a master of leather, he treats it like a canvas on which to paint and the body seems tattooed.

Brand Development

Roberto Cavalli Boutique Milano
Roberto Cavalli Boutique Milano

The first single-brand boutique opened in Venice in 1996. The brand, Just Cavalli, launched in 2000 with a men’s and womenswear collection, accessories, eyewear, watches, jewelry, perfumes, underwear, and beachwear.

At this time, his brand is distributed in more than 30 countries, directly from the Milan, New York, and Düsseldorf’ showrooms. The home market leads with 35% of the turnover (Europe 25%, Asia 20%). The Russian market is expanding and the U.S. market has already been conquered, with his styles in the windows of the most important department stores.  The principal line is gradually supported by CJ Cavalli Jeans, a men’s line, a line of eyeglasses produced by Marcolin, and accessories for men and women. The most recent line is women’s underwear. His wife, Eva Duringer, who works with him professionally, was Miss Universe.

In October 2000, at Milano Collezioni, an entire day is dedicated to Cavalli. After the Collection is presented in the morning, the afternoon sees the opening of his first boutique in Milan, on via della Spiga. A year later, the the company decides the men’s shoe line will be produced and distributed for the next five years by Roberto Botticelli. The Fall/Winter 2001-2002 Collection is inspired by the Old West, with loafers, ankle boots and, above all, cowboy boots with embroidered details.

In March 2001 Cavalli designs two new lines for the watches produced by Sector. For his beachwear he uses the eclectic and comfortable Sensitive fabric made by Eurojersey, personalizing it with his celebrated prints. Later in July, to celebrate his début in Great Britain, Eva and Roberto Cavalli welcome their guests in a Berber tent, thus bringing a piece of Africa to Momo, the historic club in the West End. Among black-and-white striped carpets and copper trays, he presents the new eyeglass Collection, which is produced and distributed by Marcolin.

2001 Turnover

The turnover for 2001 was expected to be 280 billion liras, but by the end of the year the new estimate is 300 to 350 billion liras. The opening of the next single-brand shops is already planned. After Milan, Rome, Jeddah, Paris, New York, and Venice, Cavalli opens a new boutique in Florence in a prestigious location, the ancient Palazzo Viviani della Robbia, with nine large windows on via Tornabuoni. The historic and renovated Caffè Giacosa is connected to the boutique, but it also has independent access. At this point, Cavalli is aiming above all at the “new” markets of Hong Kong, Seoul, Taipei, and Moscow.

Fall/Winter 2002 Men’s Collection

Roberto Cavalli 2002 Fall/Winter Menswear
2002 Fall/Winter Menswear

In January 2002 the new men’s Collection for Fall/Winter 2002-2003 is refined, precious and extravagant. It renewed the style of men’s fashion with an irony of excess and fantasy with inspiration drawn from Victorian England. The Collection is presented in Florence at Palazzo Vecchio. The exhibition More and More More and More — The Looks Roberto Cavalli Wants for You, opened. The exhibition was organized by Italo Rota is full of excess, provocation, color, and fun.

In February 2002 the exhibition Men in Skirts at the Dress Gallery of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London displayed work by Cavalli and other designers. Organized with the purpose of celebrating the designers who turned the skirt into a man’s garment, the exhibit is divided into five themes: historical styles, the kilt, exoticism, styles vs. culture, and futuristic styles. Roberto Cavalli finds his natural place in the exoticism section where he shows a linen caftan with animal-tribal prints.

Fall/Winter 2002 Women’s Collection

Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2002 Collection
Fall/Winter 2002 Collection

The Fall/Winter 2002-2003 womenswear collection was an amusing and lively presentation with a touch of self-irony that proposes pieces such as a black tailored suit of Breitschwanz, sophisticated decorated furs, patent-leather overcoats for a cat-woman and calf-length dresses in delicate flower-patterned muslin with long sleeves. Cindy Crawford wore a tight sheath dress in Persian scarlet lamb, a herringbone-patterned fur, and, finally, a long white satin dress embroidered with panther- and tiger-shaped sequins, together with a trench coat in very bright and light snake skin. Something very unusual was a loom-manufactured Scottish fabric in strong colors that was used for tailored suits that had the skirt tight on the hips and then dropped in a flare, and for the tiny jackets worn with jeans. The fabric was also worked in patterned cloths embroidered with silver thread.

In May 2002 for the 85th Giro d’Italia, Cavalli designed the uniforms for Mario Cipollini and his team, in black and white stripes, of course.

Roberto Cavalli Kids Collection

Roberto Cavalli Kids Line 2015
Kids Line 2015

In 2002 Roberto Cavalli Angels, the Collection produced and distributed by Simonetta, is presented at Pitti Bimbo, for Spring-Summer 2003. There are light leather jackets, snake skin patterned jackets, chalk stripe jeans, and oversized overalls in pre-washed fabric. The suede boots on the feet as those of the Navajos, and around the waist are colored raffia belts with plastic beads and feathers. Roberto Cavalli Devils is a new line dedicated to children and kids from 4 to 14 years. It supports Roberto Cavalla Angels, the Collection for little girls and teenagers produced and distributed by Simonetta, who is to manage the new brand as well.

In July 2002 the youth line, Just Cavalli, opened a boutique in Rome, in Piazza di Spagna, of the first boutique dedicated to the youth line Just Cavalli. Roberto Cavalli and Ittierre (It Holding Group) renew, three years in advance, the license for the Just Cavalli line, extending it to 2010.

Cavalli watches

Roberto Cavalli Watches
Roberto Cavalli Watches

In the first six months of the year, the watch line designed for Sector has a turnover of €3.9 million, growing 136%. The reopening of the Torre Branca, ex Littorio, in Milan takes place in October. At the foot of the tower is the Just Cavalli Café, with a counter designed by Ron Arad. Cavalli receives the award The Provocateurs, given to “those who dare.” The ceremony takes place at Cipriani New York, on the occasion of the 19th edition of the Night of Stars, organized by Fashion Group International.

In 2003 black-and-white striped dishes, gold rimmed glasses, and animal-patterned cushions for the house designed by Cavalli. Also, in the main collection the style is a mix between a cowboy and a bikerman presented by Cavalli at Milano Moda Uomo.

Store Openings in US

In April 2003 the brands fourth boutique in the US, in Coral Gables, Florida, called More More and More By Roberto Cavalli is opened. All his Collections, with the exception of the first line, can be found there, including the children’s, accessories, and household lines. The other American boutiques are in New York, on Madison Avenue; in Bel Harbor, Florida; and in Las Vegas.

At this time, the brand opened a new boutique in Porto Cervo, Sardinia. Then, at number 15 in the Tretyakovskiy Passage in Moscow, of the first single-brand Roberto Cavalli boutique in Russia.

Cavalli Events

In April 2004 Cavalli hosts Le Cirque du Soleil in Milan and organized an evening for the première of the extraordinary show Saltimbanco. The designer, with the creative help of Ettore Scola, transforms a warehouse into an enchanted paradise.

Later in December, Cavalli is back in New York to host the most exclusive evening of the year on the occasion of the exhibition organized by the Fashion Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, entitled Wild fashion Untamed. To celebrate the event, the designer organized an exclusive evening: cocktails and an exhibition preview followed by a dinner for 300 selected international guests.

Roberto Cavalli Wild Fashion Untamed
Wild Fashion Untamed Event

In January 2005, Just Cavalli opened their first single-brand store in Milan. It was an innovative project and the result of collaboration between Roberto Cavalli and Italo Rota for a real “fantasy store.” Later this year, Roberto Cavalli with his friend Dino De Laurentiis, together launched the film, The Decameron, a film directed by David Leland, Cavalli designs the costumes. The cast includes: Hayden Christensen, Mischa Barton, and Tim Roth. Roberto Cavalli also collaborated with Tre Italia, the first branded video cell phone. The project includes a donation to the Veronesi Foundation for their cancer research.

Roberto Cavalli Just Cavalli Club
Just Cavalli Club

Roberto Cavalli teamed up with Pragma Group in 2009 and opened its first nightclub, Just Cavalli, in Florence. The location used to be a 15th century church. Soon, Just Cavalli club opened in Milan. This business venture also made a 5-year plan to open 3 more Cavalli Clubs and 15 Cavalli cafes.

40th Anniversary

Roberto Cavalli 40th Anniversary Event
Roberto Cavalli 40th Anniversary Event

2010 marked the 40th anniversary of Roberto Cavalli. On September 29th, the brand hosted an anniversary gala at Ecole National Superieure des Beaux Arts, plenty of celebrities attended the celebration party include Naomi Campbell, Taylor Swift, Leona Lewis, Heidi Klum. Some of Cavalli’s signature designs were also displayed at the gallery of Ecole National Superieure des Beaux Arts. Celebration continues at Milan Fashion Week later, where Roberto Cavalli presented its spring/summer 2011 collection at spectacular 19th-century marble Arco Della Pace.

In 2011 Roberto Cavalli signed a five-year licensing deal with Compagnia delle Pelli for launch a new “CLASS Roberto Cavalli” accessories line. Start to offer both men’s and women’s bags and small leather goods collections. A year later, with their india partner Infinite Luxury Brands, Roberto Cavalli launched its first store in India and a brand new Cavalli Cafe in New Delhi.

Creative Directors

In 2013 Yvan Mispelaere, the former chief designer from DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, was named Roberto Cavalli’s first design director. He unveiled his first collection for Fall/Winter 14. A year later, Roberto Cavalli, before the Just Cavalli Women’s Fall/Winter fashion show, he exclaimed that he refuses to engage with celebrities to promote his brand, and encouraged the fashion world to turn its back to celebrity endorsements.

Fall/Winter 2014 Collection By Yvan Mispelaere
Fall/Winter 2014 Collection By Yvan Mispelaere

In March 2015 Peter Dundas was pointed as new creative director of Roberto Cavalli. This Norwegian-American designer worked as the former creative director of Emilio Pucci,  and in fact, he used to work with Roberto Cavalli very closely when Roberto Cavalli  was relaunching his no-holds-barred brand between 2002 and 2005.

Fall/Winter 2016 Collection By Peter Dundas
Fall/Winter 2016 Collection By Peter Dundas

In January 2016 Peter Dundas presented his first collection and returns to the original Florence fashion house style. He focuses his attention on sensuality, femininity and coolness. This return underlines the ability of the stylist to mix day and night, elegance and beauty but also fierceness. Accessories are composed by boots and earrings with charms.

Clessidra SGR Acquired Roberto Cavalli

One month later, private-equity firm Clessidra SGR acquired 90% of the Italian fashion house. In 2016 February,  Roberto Cavalli became the first designer brands to open up a store in Iran. Then, Renato Semerari left the Italian fashion group because of  strategic differences, while Gian Giacomo Ferraris was named the new Chief Executive Officer of the company. Later in October, Peter Dundas departs from the label after only one year.

Meanwhile, Gian Giacomo Ferraris announced a comprehensive reorganization of the company, including store closures, severe cuts to global headcount, nearly 30% positions were eliminated, Milan offices were closed, and all functions moved to Florence. Roberto Cavalli employees took action immediately after the dramatic restructure plan and conducted an eight-hour strike.

Current Situation

Roberto Cavalli SS 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 Collection

In May 2017 Roberto Cavalli brand welcomed its new creative director, British-born designer Paul Surridge. Surridge graduated from Central Saint Martins and has experience working under Calvin Klein, Burberry, and Jil Sander. Paul Surridge displayed his first women’s SS18 collection during Milan Fashion Week.

NAOMI CAMPBELL

Naomi Campbell is an English model who was recruited at the age of 15. Her career quickly began and she appeared on British and French Vogue by 18.

The Beginning: Synchro Model Agency

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Naomi Campbell Young Naomi
Young Naomi Posing for the Camera

Naomi Campbell was born in 1970  in Streatham, London. She has chestnut hair and brown eyes, but she wears colored contact lenses, blue and green. She studied at Dunraven School and the London Academy for Performing Arts, Italia Conti Academy stage school and appeared in music videos for Bob Marley. Then, she was discovered at the age of 15 while walking in Covent Garden, by Beth Boldt of the model agency Synchro.

After being discovered she was signed on by the agency and her career quickly took off. She traveled to Paris regularly and meet Azzedine Alaïa, who she became close with and meet many celebrities through him.

The Golden Years

Vogue

Naomi Campbell French Vogue Cover 1988
French Vogue Cover 1988

In December 1987, she appeared on the cover of British Vogue, as that publication’s first black cover girl since 1966. Then, in August 1988 at the age of 18, she was the first black woman to appear on the cover of Vogue France. A year later, she appeared on the cover of the September issue of American Vogue, which was said to be the most sold.

Supermodel

Naomi Campbell Supermodels Shot by Herb Ritts
Supermodels Shot by Herb Ritts

Through the 80s and 90s she gained the status of a top model and was considered one of the six models of her generation declared supermodels by the fashion industry. She walked the catwalk for designers: Gianni Versace, Azzedine Alaïa, Ralph Lauren, BlueMarine, Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Isaac Mizrahi. Also, she has modeled for famous photographers such as Peter Lindbergh, Herb Ritts and Bruce Weber.

In April 1992, she appeared on the hundredth-anniversary cover of American Vogue, shot by Patrick Demarchelier, with several other top models. And a year later in 1993 She famously fell on the catwalk in Vivienne Westwood‘s foot-high platform shoes, which were later displayed at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Her Struggles

Naomi Campbell Vogue 100 Anniversary 1990
? Naomi Campbell Vogue 100 Anniversary 1990

Through 1998 to 2009 there were several cases after being accused 11 different times over the years of acting out against employees, associates and other individuals. She was convicted in Toronto in 1998 of assaulting her assistant with a mobile phone. By 2006, several other employees had come forward with claims of abuse. She has pled guilty at least four times and has attended anger management classes, completed community service ?and paid fines. Along with this, she was banned from British Airways after an incident mid-air.

Elite Model Management, which had represented Campbell since 1987, fired her in September 1993, on the grounds that “no amount of money or prestige could further justify the abuse” to staff and clients. Elite founder John Casablancas described her as “manipulative, scheming, rude and impossible.” She was known for her whimsical temper and jet set love affairs including the boxer Mike Tyson, the dancer Cortes, the entrepreneur Flavio Briatore, and Usher.

Fashion Cafe

Elle McPherson, Claudia Schiffer, and Naomi Cambell Fashion Cafe Launch
Elle McPherson, Claudia Schiffer, and Naomi Cambell Fashion Cafe Launch

Naomi decided to diversify her activities, and, with her colleagues Elle McPherson and Christy Turlington, started the Fashion Café. The business venture was not successful and the directors were arrested for fraud, bankruptcy and money laundering in 1998. Then, she co-wrote the book Swan, recorded a couple of songs and created the album Babywoman. Also, she has participated in the videos of famous singers like Michael Jackson, presented her own fragrance, and had a doll and a wax statue at Madame Tussaud’s reproducing her features dedicated to her. So far, the thing she does best remains on the runways.

For over twenty years, Naomi Campbell has worn clothes that designers put on her, but also interpreted them, giving them life. In 2007, she walked the catwalk for Dior‘s 60th-anniversary fashion show at Versailles.

Various Activities

In 2013 she launched her reality series, The Face. The series is about a group of aspiring models competing against each other. Campbell is the producer and a coach for the show.  

In 2014, at the age of 44, Naomi is ready to go permanently down from the catwalk and to get behind the scenes of fashion, and opened a charity shop in London’s Westfield shopping center, called Fashion For Relief. The shop also sells fashion clothes and accessories to celebrities and friends as Kate Moss.

Naomi Campbell Fashion For Relief Show 2015
Fashion For Relief Show 2015

Fashion For Relief has presented shows in New York, London, Cannes, Moscow, Mumbai  and Dar es Salaam, and has raised millions of dollars for various causes. Campbell has remained an activist who has fought for the welfare of children in Africa alongside Nelson Mandela since 1997.

Between the end of 2015 and the beginning of 2016 a wide range of products signed by the model is launched for TCC, a leading company in loyalty programs. The products, including jewelry, textile articles for the house, bags and luggage have been used by retail chains, franchise or not, to reward customers in loyalty campaigns.

Current Situation

Naomi Campbell Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show a Tribute to Gianni Versace
Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show a Tribute to Gianni Versace

In 2017 Campbell launches silver jewelry and luxury gift items, becoming an ambassador of a brand that is launching its first store in Northern Ireland.

Milan Spring Summer 2018 Fashion Week’s epic moment turns out to be Versace’s runway show, where the original supermodels: Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni, and Helena Christensen,  return back to the runway in golden dress, to pay tribute to the late designer Gianni Versace. The reunion moment is really memorable, audience welcomed the top five models with applause and standing ovation.

By 2018 Naomi Campbell has graces the cover of over 500 magazines, walked the runway for countless luxury brands, and has continued her charity work in South Africa and around the world.  

CELINE

Celine, began in 1945 as a made-to-measure children’s shoe business and evolved into a French house of luxury leather goods and prêt-à-porter.

Index

  1. The Origin: Céline Vipiana
  2. Acquired By LVMH
  3. Michael Kors
  4. The Poulbot Bag
  5. A Hard Time
  6. Phoebe Philo
  7. Current Situation

The Origin: Céline Vipiana

Céline has a long and deep-rooted history in the world of fashion. The first boutique was opened by Céline Vipiana and her husband, Richard at 52 rue Malte in Paris. Together they created one of the first luxury brands in the industry, Céline, a made-to-measure children’s shoe business. Then, year after year, the maison’s success allowed it to expand. Céline Vipiana remained the designer from 1945-1997.

Celine Vipianna
Celine Vipianna Portrait in Office

In 1960, the brand changed positioning and began focusing on a women’s ready-to-wear fashion brand with a sportswear approach. In 1963 it presented a women’s shoe line, and 1966 saw the début of a leather collection. In 1973, Céline redesigned its logo with the intertwined “C” Sulky canvas, linked to the Parisian symbol, Arc-de-Triomphe.

Acquired by LVMH

In 1996 the brand was officially acquired by LVMH, Bernard Arnault, which owned several luxury and fashion brands, for $540 million. At this time, LVMH made the brand popular and opened a boutique on 36 avenue Montaigne in Paris.

The firm, guided by Nan Lergeai, the person at Dior responsible for the Far East, began a policy of opening single-brand boutiques all over the world, with particular attention to the Asian and American markets.

Michael Kors

In 1997 American fashion designer Michael Kors was named the first ever women’s ready-to-wear designer and creative director for Céline. After he was hired, the brand quickly evolved, and in May 2001 the company opened their first single-brand boutique in London, at the prime address New Bond Street. Then, in August the Isetan Museum in Tokyo dedicates a retrospective to Céline illustrating the maison’s style from 1945 to the present day, highlighting the changes made in 1997 with the arrival of artistic director Michael Kors.

Celine Micheal Kors Spring/Summer 2001
Micheal Kors Spring/Summer 2001 Collection

The celebrated Grant bag, very successful in the 1960s, is the main feature, and it is sewn right in front of visitors in a miniature cardboard version. The pieces on sale are limited and numbered, personalized with the buyer’s name.

In September 2001 with the advent of the single European currency, Céline creates a dedication to the euro with a collection of accessories decorated with the twelve coins which are to be issued. After London and Antwerp, Club Céline arrives in Italy, in the new boutique opened in Galleria Cavour in Bologna. The firm expects to open 100 more points-of-sale by the end of the year.

The Poulbot Bag

Celine Poulbot Bag Grey
Poulbot Bag Grey

In May 2003 the new Céline bag is called Poulbot. This name is almost unknown, and derives from Francisque Poulbot, an contemporary artist with Toulouse-Lautrec, by whom he was inspired when painting the street urchins of Paris. Since that time, poulbot has meant urchin, and the bag is called an “urchin” or “rascal” bag. It hangs like a shoulder bag, bombé and round with seams held together by metallic rivets, made in leather of bright colors such as orange, fuchsia, and electric blue.

Also, Céline offers a mini-Collection inspired by the streets of Paris. The name chosen for the collection, Macadam, is the name of the paving material put down in 1854, an important element in the stylistic identity of the city. The Collection is to last a single season. By this time, Céline has seen a lot of growth and now has 63 boutiques all over the world.

A Hard Time

October 2004 Roberto Menichetti makes his début in Paris as the creative director of Céline. He replaces the American Michael Kors as the artistic head of the historic French maison. By May 2005, after only two seasons, the collaboration between the Italian designer and the French maison comes to an end. The separation is consensual.

Céline Opens First Store in Florence
Céline Opens First Store in Florence

Later in June, after the opening of the boutique on via Condotti in Rome in 2004, another prestigious store is opened on the very central via Tornabuoni in Florence. It is a nice way to celebrate the griffe‘s 66th anniversary. In the previous four years, the griffe shows a growth in turnover of 50%.

A year later, the Croatian designer, Ivana Omazic, was appointed director of the design studio. He was a former consultant for the brand and previously worked with Prada, Jil Sander and Miu Miu. Omazic designed for Céline until 2008, after further disappointments for the brand.

Phoebe Philo

On September 4, 2008 the LVMH Group names Phoebe Philo as the new creative director and board member of the brand. The designer incorporates her own twist to the brand by drawing attention to the tailoring and materials. Vogue defined the new aesthetic look she brought to the brand as the “cool minimal trend”.

Celine Phoebe Philo SS15
Phoebe Philo SS15 Collection

In 2014, the brand is at its peak, when the House opens new flagship stores in Mount Street (London), Avenue Montaigne (Paris), Omotesando (Tokyo), SoHo (New York) and Plaza 66 (Shanghai). At end of 2014, Céline completely renovated its new headquarters at 16 Rue Vivienne, a historical building which was built in 1653. The building is on the national heritage list, originally owned by King Louis XIII and positioned in the heart of Paris.

In 2015, in order to be faithful to the minimalist spirit of Céline, the brand chose one of the legendary American author Joan Didion to be the face of SS15 campaign.

Current Situation

Celine SS17 Collection
SS17 Collection

The year 2017 has undergone many changes for Céline,  in the beginning of this year, Séverine Merle joined Céline as new CEO. Later in February, the brand finally launched an official Instagram account to strengthen its social media presence.

The official Céline website is one of few fashion website without e-commerce capabilities, but there is no doubt that online sales have become the fashion industry’s most important and promising engine of growth, therefore, on 27th of February, Céline announced plans to launch e-commerce.

In August, Céline entered Indian market for the first time by signing an exclusive partnership with Le Mill, a concept store in Mumbai. Also, after holding the position of creative director in the house for 8 years, Phoebe Philo is preparing to depart from Céline by the end of 2017.

CANALI

Canali is an Italian luxury menswear brand that established in 1934 by the brothers Giovanni and Giacomo Canali. Known for their excellence in tailoring.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. Modern Italian Tailoring
  3. Brand Development
  4. Product Launches
  5. 75th Anniversary
  6. Acquires & Collaborations
  7. Creative director: Andrea Pompilio
  8. Current Situation

The Origin

Canali is a men’s clothing company that was established in 1934 by the brothers Giovanni and Giacomo Canali. The company mainly produces excellent tailored shirts and jackets. The entire history can be seen in a simple comparison between the small tailor’s workshop where it started, compared to the seven manufacturing plants that now exist.

The business began with two owner-operators and just a few workers. Now the company is guided by the third generation and there are 1,000 workers. Within three generations, production has expanded to include accessories, sportswear, and ties.

In June 2003 Canali received the Pitti Immagine Uomo prize. The award, received by Eugenio Canali, general manager of the company, is given to those who have distinguished themselves in the field of fashion and increased the success of the Made in Italy movement. The clothing is manufactured in seven production centers, all connected to the central headquarters at Sovico, near Milan. About 75% of the turnover is sold abroad. The most important market is North America, followed by Western Europe. Growing markets include those of the former Soviet Union. The year 2002 ended with a turnover of €145 million.

Modern Italian Tailoring

Canali Patterned Jackets
A Patterned Suit Jacket

Canali produces the highest standards of cut, construction and finishing for gentlemen who seek a sartorial look that satisfies their needs and personalities. The brand uses the finest textiles on the market and their artisans pay attention to detail. For example, every roll of fabric is examined by their experts that measure its weight, check each end and evaluate all of its features, examining every inch of the textile to find even the smallest defects.

“Every year we work closely with the mills in Biella [the heart of the Italian textiles industry] to produce amazing new blends of fabrics,” Elisabetta Canali

Brand Development

The company closed 2003 with an increase of 5%, this result is due to both the resilience of US market, which makes 30% of company sales, and the development of new markets, as Russia (Moscow second store with 3 boutiques) and especially China (20 flagship stores).

At this time, there are more than 30 boutiques around the world. Milan, which was the first flagship store opened in 1999, has expanded from a 200 to 600 square meter store. New Canali spaces are opened in St.Petersburg, Amsterdam and Paris (12 showrooms in the world).

In the medium-term plans, much attention is paid to foreign markets, where Canali looks very carefully in its main business lines: Exclusive Canali and Canali Sports, which currently makes the 75% of the turnover.

In this same period, the company signed its first license for the production and distribution of a fragrance with Eurocosmesi, to be launched in 2005. The five-year agreement aims at a masculine scent, being faithful to the mission of the company that looks to the continuity with the Canali style.

The 2004 turnover was €155 million (+ 13% compared to 2003). In 2005, it reaches up €160 million (+ 4.3% compared to 2004). At this time, the company owns seven plants, is in more than a thousand stores worldwide and 35 single-brand boutiques. By 2005 daily Canali production is 1400 suits and 1600 trousers, employing more than 1500 people.

Product Launches

In 2006 Canali plays the energy and dynamism of the contemporary man and launches the Canali Men Travel Set, a stylish and practical travel kit dedicated to the real citizens of the world. With a growth rate of 10% per year, Canali invoiced €178 million in 2006, opening to external managers.

Canali Black Diamond
Canali Black Diamond

A year later, in 2007 the limited edition Black Diamond Eau de Parfum is launched, celebrating the second year of life of the Canali Men fragrance. Also, the company celebrated the new store opening in Hong Kong at the IFC Mall; in addition to ready-to-wear clothes, customers can order custom-made clothes, which will be ready in eight weeks, thanks to the tailoring service offered in the new store.

75th Anniversary

In 2009 Canali celebrated the 75th anniversary. To celebrate this milestone the historical brand moves the presentation of the new collections in Milan. Also, they opened a new Paris boutique with 500 square meters on one level. The opening is at 36 Rue Marbeuf, near the Avenue des Champs Elysèes.

The company ends the year with €150 million (-17%) and continues to invest in retail. The company opens their first boutique in the Republic of Singapore, in the Island of Sentosa, inside the stunning building complex Resort World.

Acquires & Collaborations

In 2010 Canali opens its new headquarters in New Bond Street, in two historic buildings in London. In the same year, Datafashion passes into the hands of the Canali Group. The historical Italian menswear brand completes the process that began in December 2008, when it acquired 49% of Datafashion, the Parma company operating for over 25 years in the software and services market for the fashion and luxury business.

Canali London Store
London Boutique

The United States is the largest market of the company, with a turnover that reaches €156 million. So, in 2011, their boutique moves from the center of New York to a new larger space in the Meatpacking District. Also, they open their first boutique in San Paolo Brazil, at the first floor of the prestigious “Shopping Cidade Jardim”. The Group, led by the third generation, closes 2011 with a budget of €184 million, and an increase of 12%.

In 2012 the Canali Group signs a joint venture agreement with the Indian company Genesis Luxury Fashion Private Limited, already the brand’s distributor in India with 5 boutique in Delhi, Gurgaon, Mumbai, Hyderabad and Bangalore. At the same time, Canali strengthens its presence within the Chinese market with a new flagship store in Beijing. The boutique is celebrated with the eventUnveiling Tradition“, with the Chinese actor Huang Xiaoming as special guest, celebrating the 78 years of the Italian tailoring tradition of Canali.

Creative Director: Andrea Pompilio

In 2014, Canali named new creative director Andrea Pompilio, who has won the “Who’s the Next” award, and has designed for many top luxury brands.  His aim for Canali is to create a new men’s wardrobe which is rich in details but with clean silhouette, move the design focus to leisure wear but always refined.

Canali Fall/Winter 2015
Fall/Winter 2015

The Canali family and the group have been involved in charity actively. In 2015 October, Canali revealed it non-for-profit organization, Fondazione Canali Onlus. With the purpose to promote and sustain projects related to social assistance, health care, education and professional training, Fondazione Canali Onlus has helped numerous charity projects worldwide.

In early 2016, the brand opened its first boutique in Jordan to make its presence in Middle East market. The new boutique is located in the heart of Abdali, aim to offering a new, high-end shopping experience for consumers there. Later in April, Andrea Pompilio departs, and now the brand’s in-house design team is in charge of all collections.

Current Situation

During Canali’s Fall 2017 Menswear presentation, the brand released a short film created by Italian director Ivan Cotroneo, to show guests the behind scene of  construction of Canali suits, but only in reverse. Meanwhile, to celebrate Canali’s craftsmanship and Made in Italy excellence, the brand launched a design workshop for Italian fashion School students to discover new talents.

Currently, Canali’s headquarters, in the newly redeveloped Porto Nuova district, is strikingly modern. In October 2017 the brand announced the closing of their factory in Carate Brianza, a one-hour drive from Milan. The employees that were let go were mainly seamstresses and ironers who had been working at the Canali factory for 20 or 30 years.

CASADEI

Casadei is an Italian luxury brand that designs and manufactures stylish footwear including pumps, sandals, platforms, sneakers, boots and accessories.

Index

  1. The Origin: Quinto and Flora Casadei
  2. First Platform Shoe
  3. The Famous Casadei Pump
  4. Second Generation
  5. Brand Expansion
  6. 50th Anniversary
  7. Current Situation

The Origin: Quinto and Flora Casadei

Casadei is an Italian shoe factory that was established in S. Mauro Pascoli, Forlì Italy at the end of the 1950s as an artisanal workshop with particularly skilled production. The brand journey as the global footwear leader is anything but ordinary. If you see their success trajectory from an aerial overview, you’ll find that their growth arc is streaked with design excellence and entrepreneurial gut.

The label’s quest for age defying and bold designs began in the year 1958. Quinto and Flora Casadei are the protagonists of Casadei’s spirited tale of two cordwainers who made footwear for the inbound tourists in the eastern Italian coastline. Together, they built the legacy of their humble shoe label in a workshop of two. Tucked away in San Mauro Pascoli in Forli, the provincial town of Romagna Rivera, the Casadei pair brought in the beginning of a new art form of shoe-making, in a region primarily known for agriculture and renaissance frescos.

Casadei Fall/Winter 1963 Campaign
Casadei Fall/Winter 1963 Campaign

The 1960s saw the development of a more formal business structure, the beginning of exports to Europe, the U.S. and the Far East, and the start of a full-fledged line dedicated to evening wear and a Collection of bags. By the late sixties, the whispers of Casadei’s detailed luxury spread beyond the Italian frontiers. After dressing feet of strangers on vacation with their exotic offerings, the family-run business expanded in terms of production scale and international presence. The company gained structure and channelled its focus on catering exports to larger sections of European market as well as the United States of America.

First Platform Shoe

They elevated a level above from their initial line of sandals and launched the first series of platform shoes, a popular and trendy choice in the eccentric decade of the ‘60s. Early seventies allowed the two shoemakers to shift their base from the homely workshop to an industrial facility. This change triggered the journey of a new kind of shoe-speech.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Casadei Shoes Fall 1971 Campaign
Casadei Shoes Fall 1971 Campaign

Taking the platforms as their prototype, they experimented with the idea of lace-up and slip-on generation of platforms. Further, they added a dose of bravery in design by creating a line of platforms covered with fabrics sporting delicate embroidery. Later, they switched gears to introduce an era of leather pumps balanced on low flared heels.

By the end of the seventies, their instinctual understanding of versatility and utility kicked in with the earliest version of Casadei boots that can be zipped down from thigh-high, to knee-high and finally to short booties. With a new prototype in market to be tried on, they also expanded their presence in Asian market. By 1977 they were now open for business in the Japanese market.

The Famous Casadei Pump

Casadei pumps from the 80s
Casadei pumps from the 80s

In the early eighties, the label expanded its operation to the Middle East. After the roaring feat in the feet fantasy expedition with their boots and platform shoes, Casadei turned to the category of pumps. Their rendition of pumps saw an imaginative exploration with polka dots and velour tulle, finished with high conical leather heels dipped in golden hue.

In a matter of no time, the pumps secured a spot in their hall of fame, and till date is considered an iconic product by the label. Designed to adapt the graceful curves of the feminine feet, the label continues to dabble with different fabrics, finishes and embroideries to create newer identities with passage of time. Towards the end of the eighties, the label was quick to adapt to the sportswear trend by building a dictionary of hybrid sneakers and football boots with heels.

Second Generation

Cesare Casadei Portrait in Office
Cesare Casadei Portrait in Office

Like most family-run operations, every company witnesses the arrival of a new protagonist in the story. For Casadei it was appointment of Quinto and Flora’s son, Cesare Casadei, as the next creative director of the business. Cesare took office in 1994 to continue Casadei’s ongoing journey. Cesare’s first-hand experience in production amplified the promotion of their ‘Made In Italy’ brand image at an international level. Cesare’s arrival also marked the beginning of unisex styles. Subsequently, he also signed off the manufacturing of casual footwear, each spectacular in their own regard.

Spring/Summer 1995 Campaign. Photographed by: Nick Knight
Spring/Summer 1995 Campaign. Photographed by: Nick Knight

In early 2000s, the label made a decision to relocate its Milanese showroom to Via dell’Annunciata, that was eventually remodelled to become the Milan headquarter for the company. At this time, the brand became a favourite amongst a growing mass of celebrities. Hollywood’s A-listers were photographed wearing Casadei iconic creations, making the label become a significant name to be reckon with in the fashion circuit. Casadei also became a popular choice for various fashion publications when globally recognised photography talents shot the brand’s advertising campaigns.

Brand Expansion

Casadei Flagship Store London
Casadei Flagship Store London

In October 2002 the company, which employs 200 people, opened a new single-brand shop in the heart of London, at no. 12 Beauchamp Place, in the Knightsbridge section. In the firm’s worldwide activity, Italy is the second market after the U.S., and has 400 points-of-sale, 4 of which are single-brand shops (Milan, Florence, Rimini, and Ferrara). With Germany, it is the most important in Europe. Two more boutiques are opened in Russia, in St. Petersburg and Moscow. The company’s choices for expansion are supported by the excellent turnover, which in 2001 reached €32,604 million, an increase of 14.82% in comparison to the previous year.

The Federation Of Italian Footwear in 2004 launched a limited edition of postage stamps to celebrate and commemorate the legacy of Casadei. This very move reflected a mark of respect for an Italian label that represents the ideology of fashion forward footwear.

50th Anniversary

Casadei turned 50 in the year 2008. To commemorate the brand’s half a century worth of eye-catching designs and artisanal glory, photographer Ellen Von Unwerth was called on board. The result culminated itself in a grand book featuring Casadei’s footwear through the years, followed by an exhibition at Milan’s La Triennale. Together, they encompassed the celebratory tones of the brand’s golden jubilee.

50th Anniversary Party Exhibition. Photographs Featured By: Ellen Von Unwerth
50th Anniversary Party Exhibition. Photographs Featured By: Ellen Von Unwerth

With every progressing year the label opened its door to a new territory. The beginning of 2010s sees Casadei launching into a full throttle mode in the landscape of brand expansion, with the opening of boutiques in Rome, Cannes, Dubai, Casablanca and finally in New York. Apart from expansion, the year 2010 itself marked the momentous presentation of Casadei heels and shoes during the Milan Fashion Week.

After conquering the brick and mortar setups, the label discovered the digital world with the launch of their website in 2012, followed by the arrival of their e-commerce boutique in 2013.  Later in 2015, Cesare Casadei and Architect Marco Costanzi gave Milan its first footwear concept store, followed by the unveiling of a new boutique in the exclusive Albemarle Street, Mayfair London. In the same year, the company re-launches its online shopping portal, a step taken in the direction of establishing new aesthetics and vision.

Current Situation

Casadei Famous Blade Stiletto Campaign 2016
The Famous Blade Stiletto Campaign 2015

Casadei kickstarted 2017 with the Super Bowl game in United States of America. Lady Gaga, who was chosen to deliver the prestigious half-time performance was spotted in the famous Casadei blade stilettos during the pre-game show. Also, Victoria Beckham is frequently seen wearing the Blade Stiletto, a favorite of celebrities because its claimed to be the comfiest of all brands.

Till date, Casadei continues to be a story of an entrepreneurial swiftness and smartness, one that is hallmarked by expert craftsmanship and well sought-out innovation. It is a testimony of Italian heritage and vision, all summed up with gracious use of vibrant colours, blended with artisanal values.

CHURCH’S

English brand of shoes that is a recognized leader in the men’s handmade luxury footwear industry. Known for high-quality shoes with modern style and elegance. Representing the English artisan-made shoe all over the world.

The Origins: Stone Church

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Church's Artisan
Church’s Artisan

Church’s dates back to 1675, when the company founder’s great-grandfather, Stone Church, was born in Northampton. A town known for a successful leather and footwear industry since Cromwellian times. The shoemaking skills were passed down generation to generation to Stone’s great grandson, Thomas Church. In 1873 the brand Church’s was created by the brothers Thomas, Alfred, and William Church.

Church’s began exporting outside of Europe to the United States, Canada and South America, and received the prestigious Queen’s Award for Exports from Queen Elizabeth II in 1965.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Church's Heritage Shoe Craftsmanship
Church’s Heritage Shoe Craftsmanship

There are 250 production steps for each pair and the process takes 8 weeks. The firm’s headquarters is in Northampton, the town which provided the boots for Cromwell’s army in the Irish War. It also provided 70% of the shoes worn by the British soldiers fighting in the trenches along the Marne in the massacre of World War I.

The Goodyear Model

The shoe factory, besides producing the classic leather shoe, first invented the technique to combine the preciousness of the most valuable and futuristic rubber comfort used for soles. That is how the Goodyear model was born, a lace-up leather shoe with para rubber. The first exports were made in 1887. The début in America came in 1907.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Church's Goodyear Flexible Rubber Collection 2012
Goodyear Flexible Rubber Collection 2012

In 1998 the turnover was 240 billion liras. At this point, the griffe is still guided by the family’s descendants, even if they no longer control the majority of shares. In Summer 1999 Diego Della Valle, “Mr. Tod’s,” bought up 8.6% of the shares. Patrizio Bertelli of Prada bought 9% and, at the end of August, launched a friendly takeover bid to acquire control, offering a 20% premium over the share price, of the Stock Exchange’s price, worth about 310 billion liras.

Prada Acquires Church’s

Later in 1999, Church’s is taken over by Prada Holding, a Dutch company at the head of Gruppo Internazionale, which is among the world leaders in luxury design. The acquisition occurs with the explicit intent of “optimizing” the business opportunities of the brand, with full respect for its English identity. The main strategic plan foresees the rationalization of production criteria and the introduction of marketing logic in the planning of collections and new products. This is to allow a further expansion of production capacity and the development of a collection that includes classic categories as well as more contemporary offerings connected to the seasons.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Church's Shanghai Ebony White Classic Shoe
Church’s Shanghai Ebony White Classic Shoe

Church’s New Chapter

In January 2002, a second single-brand boutique in Milan, after the one on via Sant’Andrea, is opened in September 2000. The 600 square foot shop in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is on two floors (shop and warehouse), with walls in teak and wengé floors. It was designed by Roberto Baciocchi.

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Church's Store Milan at La Rinascente
Church’s Store Milan at La Rinascente

During this year, the Church’s Group turnover amounts to €61.2 million, with a return to operating profitability and expected further growth in 2003. At this point, there are 48 single-brand points-of-sale, of which 47 are privately owned and 1 is a franchise. The brand is available in 895 multi-brand shops. The group employees a total of 700 people all over the world, with a production centered 95% in England and 5% in Italy for the women’s Collection. The expansion policies of the brand have involved the retail channel and the opening of new single-brand shops in the most important international capitals. The new boutiques are in Milan, in 2001; Paris, on Rue Saint-Honoré; Rome, on via Condotti; St. Moritz, on Palace Arcade, in 2002; and New York, on Madison Avenue, in 2003.

International Expansion

A year later in 2003, an agreement is signed between Prada Group and Equinox. An important private equity investment company to support an ambitious worldwide expansion plan. This plan is based on the development of new and complementary categories of merchandise. An important part of the agreement is the complete autonomy of the Prada Group in design decisions and in the strategy concerning the identity of the brand. According to the agreement, Equinox acquired 45% of the capital of the Church’s GroupThen, later in December 2006, Prada acquired 100% capital of Church’s.

In 2008 the brand started a new development plan to begin opening more international stores. Including Venice, Bologna, Leeds, Edinburgh, Hong Kong and Singapore.

Current Situation

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Church's New Bond Street Boutique
Church’s New Bond Street Boutique

In 26 July 2011 church’s opened the first store dedicated to the women’s collection in the heart of London’s shopping district, New Bond Street.

Currently, there are 200 single-brand boutiques all over the world. The number of employees is about 2,000.

Cecil

Hugh. English photographer. He had a photographic studio in London from the end of the 1910s until the early 1930s. His soft style derives from that of the Baron de Mayer. He worked especially for the English edition of Vogue.