ROBERTO CAVALLI

Roberto Cavalli is an Italian fashion designer born in 1940. He is known for exotic prints and for creating the sand-blasted look for jeans.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. Cavalli Style
  3. Brand Development
    1. 2001 Turnover
    2. Fall/Winter 2002 Mens Collection
    3. Fall/Winter 2002 Womens Collection
    4. Roberto Cavalli Kids Collection
    5. Cavalli Watches
    6. Store Openings in US
  4. Cavalli Events
  5. 40th Anniversary
  6. Clessidra SGR Acquired Roberto Cavalli
  7. Current Situation

The Origin

Roberto Cavalli was born in 1940 and is an Italian designer. Referred to as “an artist of fashion,” perhaps to remember his grandfather who was an illustrious painter, one of the Macchiaioli, and the creator of paintings on display at the Uffizi in Florence, his hometown.

Designer Roberto Cavalli With His Models
Designer Roberto Cavalli With His Models

He attended the Academy of Fine Arts and soon became interested in the relationship between fashion and painting.  He investigated various materials in his own print shop, and at the same time experimenting with new technologies. In the 1960s he patented a revolutionary process for printing on leather then he debuted these techniques in Paris, and immediately was recognized by Hermès and Pierre Cardin. At age 32, he presented his first namesake collection at the Salon for Prêt-à-Porter in Paris.

Then, in 1972 he made his début at Palazzo Pitti with his patchworks, which are by now considered a classic of his style, and which are especially typical of his glamorous jeans. Also at this time he opened his first boutique in Saint Tropez. In 1980, Roberto Cavalli married Eva Düringer.  He owns an important art Collection with paintings from the 1400s and 1600s and has a fondness for the painters of Siena. He also likes purebreds.

Cavalli Style

Roberto Cavalli Style
Roberto Cavalli Style

The Cavalli woman has a well-defined silhouette. the Cavalli clothes are made to caresses the body, wrap it, and imprison it with often overlapping colored fabrics in fantastic patterns.

Nature is a source of inspiration for Roberto Cavalli. This includes animal skins, sequins in the shape of fish scales, waves that lose themselves in the transparencies of the fabric. The impact of his collections have always been very strong with ferocious wild beasts, angels and demons that peep out from a jacket or from trousers. Feline and witty women find their personality in Cavalli’s style, instinctual and exhibitionist.

Every style is breathtaking. For example, shorts and corsets for a Scarlet O’Hara updated to the year 2000, contoured blazers in prints of leopard, crocodile or lynx, and snake skin as a substitute for spotted patterns of every sort. Then the black of the youth gangs, from the jacket of a wild Marlon Brando to punks and heavy metal lovers. His unmistakable, elegant jackets are made out of very soft deer skin. Something lunar for his micro galactic skirts, and again baroque-patterned jeans.

Anna Falchi and Claudia Koll played the winning couple in a prêt-à-porter presentation in Milan in 1995. The presentation was full of sophisticated elegance with a touch of transgression. Stretch became ultra stretch: a master of leather, he treats it like a canvas on which to paint and the body seems tattooed.

Brand Development

Roberto Cavalli Boutique Milano
Roberto Cavalli Boutique Milano

The first single-brand boutique opened in Venice in 1996. The brand, Just Cavalli, launched in 2000 with a men’s and womenswear collection, accessories, eyewear, watches, jewelry, perfumes, underwear, and beachwear.

At this time, his brand is distributed in more than 30 countries, directly from the Milan, New York, and Düsseldorf’ showrooms. The home market leads with 35% of the turnover (Europe 25%, Asia 20%). The Russian market is expanding and the U.S. market has already been conquered, with his styles in the windows of the most important department stores.  The principal line is gradually supported by CJ Cavalli Jeans, a men’s line, a line of eyeglasses produced by Marcolin, and accessories for men and women. The most recent line is women’s underwear. His wife, Eva Duringer, who works with him professionally, was Miss Universe.

In October 2000, at Milano Collezioni, an entire day is dedicated to Cavalli. After the Collection is presented in the morning, the afternoon sees the opening of his first boutique in Milan, on via della Spiga. A year later, the the company decides the men’s shoe line will be produced and distributed for the next five years by Roberto Botticelli. The Fall/Winter 2001-2002 Collection is inspired by the Old West, with loafers, ankle boots and, above all, cowboy boots with embroidered details.

In March 2001 Cavalli designs two new lines for the watches produced by Sector. For his beachwear he uses the eclectic and comfortable Sensitive fabric made by Eurojersey, personalizing it with his celebrated prints. Later in July, to celebrate his début in Great Britain, Eva and Roberto Cavalli welcome their guests in a Berber tent, thus bringing a piece of Africa to Momo, the historic club in the West End. Among black-and-white striped carpets and copper trays, he presents the new eyeglass Collection, which is produced and distributed by Marcolin.

2001 Turnover

The turnover for 2001 was expected to be 280 billion liras, but by the end of the year the new estimate is 300 to 350 billion liras. The opening of the next single-brand shops is already planned. After Milan, Rome, Jeddah, Paris, New York, and Venice, Cavalli opens a new boutique in Florence in a prestigious location, the ancient Palazzo Viviani della Robbia, with nine large windows on via Tornabuoni. The historic and renovated Caffè Giacosa is connected to the boutique, but it also has independent access. At this point, Cavalli is aiming above all at the “new” markets of Hong Kong, Seoul, Taipei, and Moscow.

Fall/Winter 2002 Men’s Collection

Roberto Cavalli 2002 Fall/Winter Menswear
2002 Fall/Winter Menswear

In January 2002 the new men’s Collection for Fall/Winter 2002-2003 is refined, precious and extravagant. It renewed the style of men’s fashion with an irony of excess and fantasy with inspiration drawn from Victorian England. The Collection is presented in Florence at Palazzo Vecchio. The exhibition More and More More and More — The Looks Roberto Cavalli Wants for You, opened. The exhibition was organized by Italo Rota is full of excess, provocation, color, and fun.

In February 2002 the exhibition Men in Skirts at the Dress Gallery of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London displayed work by Cavalli and other designers. Organized with the purpose of celebrating the designers who turned the skirt into a man’s garment, the exhibit is divided into five themes: historical styles, the kilt, exoticism, styles vs. culture, and futuristic styles. Roberto Cavalli finds his natural place in the exoticism section where he shows a linen caftan with animal-tribal prints.

Fall/Winter 2002 Women’s Collection

Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2002 Collection
Fall/Winter 2002 Collection

The Fall/Winter 2002-2003 womenswear collection was an amusing and lively presentation with a touch of self-irony that proposes pieces such as a black tailored suit of Breitschwanz, sophisticated decorated furs, patent-leather overcoats for a cat-woman and calf-length dresses in delicate flower-patterned muslin with long sleeves. Cindy Crawford wore a tight sheath dress in Persian scarlet lamb, a herringbone-patterned fur, and, finally, a long white satin dress embroidered with panther- and tiger-shaped sequins, together with a trench coat in very bright and light snake skin. Something very unusual was a loom-manufactured Scottish fabric in strong colors that was used for tailored suits that had the skirt tight on the hips and then dropped in a flare, and for the tiny jackets worn with jeans. The fabric was also worked in patterned cloths embroidered with silver thread.

In May 2002 for the 85th Giro d’Italia, Cavalli designed the uniforms for Mario Cipollini and his team, in black and white stripes, of course.

Roberto Cavalli Kids Collection

Roberto Cavalli Kids Line 2015
Kids Line 2015

In 2002 Roberto Cavalli Angels, the Collection produced and distributed by Simonetta, is presented at Pitti Bimbo, for Spring-Summer 2003. There are light leather jackets, snake skin patterned jackets, chalk stripe jeans, and oversized overalls in pre-washed fabric. The suede boots on the feet as those of the Navajos, and around the waist are colored raffia belts with plastic beads and feathers. Roberto Cavalli Devils is a new line dedicated to children and kids from 4 to 14 years. It supports Roberto Cavalla Angels, the Collection for little girls and teenagers produced and distributed by Simonetta, who is to manage the new brand as well.

In July 2002 the youth line, Just Cavalli, opened a boutique in Rome, in Piazza di Spagna, of the first boutique dedicated to the youth line Just Cavalli. Roberto Cavalli and Ittierre (It Holding Group) renew, three years in advance, the license for the Just Cavalli line, extending it to 2010.

Cavalli watches

Roberto Cavalli Watches
Roberto Cavalli Watches

In the first six months of the year, the watch line designed for Sector has a turnover of €3.9 million, growing 136%. The reopening of the Torre Branca, ex Littorio, in Milan takes place in October. At the foot of the tower is the Just Cavalli Café, with a counter designed by Ron Arad. Cavalli receives the award The Provocateurs, given to “those who dare.” The ceremony takes place at Cipriani New York, on the occasion of the 19th edition of the Night of Stars, organized by Fashion Group International.

In 2003 black-and-white striped dishes, gold rimmed glasses, and animal-patterned cushions for the house designed by Cavalli. Also, in the main collection the style is a mix between a cowboy and a bikerman presented by Cavalli at Milano Moda Uomo.

Store Openings in US

In April 2003 the brands fourth boutique in the US, in Coral Gables, Florida, called More More and More By Roberto Cavalli is opened. All his Collections, with the exception of the first line, can be found there, including the children’s, accessories, and household lines. The other American boutiques are in New York, on Madison Avenue; in Bel Harbor, Florida; and in Las Vegas.

At this time, the brand opened a new boutique in Porto Cervo, Sardinia. Then, at number 15 in the Tretyakovskiy Passage in Moscow, of the first single-brand Roberto Cavalli boutique in Russia.

Cavalli Events

In April 2004 Cavalli hosts Le Cirque du Soleil in Milan and organized an evening for the première of the extraordinary show Saltimbanco. The designer, with the creative help of Ettore Scola, transforms a warehouse into an enchanted paradise.

Later in December, Cavalli is back in New York to host the most exclusive evening of the year on the occasion of the exhibition organized by the Fashion Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, entitled Wild fashion Untamed. To celebrate the event, the designer organized an exclusive evening: cocktails and an exhibition preview followed by a dinner for 300 selected international guests.

Roberto Cavalli Wild Fashion Untamed
Wild Fashion Untamed Event

In January 2005, Just Cavalli opened their first single-brand store in Milan. It was an innovative project and the result of collaboration between Roberto Cavalli and Italo Rota for a real “fantasy store.” Later this year, Roberto Cavalli with his friend Dino De Laurentiis, together launched the film, The Decameron, a film directed by David Leland, Cavalli designs the costumes. The cast includes: Hayden Christensen, Mischa Barton, and Tim Roth. Roberto Cavalli also collaborated with Tre Italia, the first branded video cell phone. The project includes a donation to the Veronesi Foundation for their cancer research.

Roberto Cavalli Just Cavalli Club
Just Cavalli Club

Roberto Cavalli teamed up with Pragma Group in 2009 and opened its first nightclub, Just Cavalli, in Florence. The location used to be a 15th century church. Soon, Just Cavalli club opened in Milan. This business venture also made a 5-year plan to open 3 more Cavalli Clubs and 15 Cavalli cafes.

40th Anniversary

Roberto Cavalli 40th Anniversary Event
Roberto Cavalli 40th Anniversary Event

2010 marked the 40th anniversary of Roberto Cavalli. On September 29th, the brand hosted an anniversary gala at Ecole National Superieure des Beaux Arts, plenty of celebrities attended the celebration party include Naomi Campbell, Taylor Swift, Leona Lewis, Heidi Klum. Some of Cavalli’s signature designs were also displayed at the gallery of Ecole National Superieure des Beaux Arts. Celebration continues at Milan Fashion Week later, where Roberto Cavalli presented its spring/summer 2011 collection at spectacular 19th-century marble Arco Della Pace.

In 2011 Roberto Cavalli signed a five-year licensing deal with Compagnia delle Pelli for launch a new “CLASS Roberto Cavalli” accessories line. Start to offer both men’s and women’s bags and small leather goods collections. A year later, with their india partner Infinite Luxury Brands, Roberto Cavalli launched its first store in India and a brand new Cavalli Cafe in New Delhi.

Creative Directors

In 2013 Yvan Mispelaere, the former chief designer from DIANE VON FURSTENBERG, was named Roberto Cavalli’s first design director. He unveiled his first collection for Fall/Winter 14. A year later, Roberto Cavalli, before the Just Cavalli Women’s Fall/Winter fashion show, he exclaimed that he refuses to engage with celebrities to promote his brand, and encouraged the fashion world to turn its back to celebrity endorsements.

Fall/Winter 2014 Collection By Yvan Mispelaere
Fall/Winter 2014 Collection By Yvan Mispelaere

In March 2015 Peter Dundas was pointed as new creative director of Roberto Cavalli. This Norwegian-American designer worked as the former creative director of Emilio Pucci,  and in fact, he used to work with Roberto Cavalli very closely when Roberto Cavalli  was relaunching his no-holds-barred brand between 2002 and 2005.

Fall/Winter 2016 Collection By Peter Dundas
Fall/Winter 2016 Collection By Peter Dundas

In January 2016 Peter Dundas presented his first collection and returns to the original Florence fashion house style. He focuses his attention on sensuality, femininity and coolness. This return underlines the ability of the stylist to mix day and night, elegance and beauty but also fierceness. Accessories are composed by boots and earrings with charms.

Clessidra SGR Acquired Roberto Cavalli

One month later, private-equity firm Clessidra SGR acquired 90% of the Italian fashion house. In 2016 February,  Roberto Cavalli became the first designer brands to open up a store in Iran. Then, Renato Semerari left the Italian fashion group because of  strategic differences, while Gian Giacomo Ferraris was named the new Chief Executive Officer of the company. Later in October, Peter Dundas departs from the label after only one year.

Meanwhile, Gian Giacomo Ferraris announced a comprehensive reorganization of the company, including store closures, severe cuts to global headcount, nearly 30% positions were eliminated, Milan offices were closed, and all functions moved to Florence. Roberto Cavalli employees took action immediately after the dramatic restructure plan and conducted an eight-hour strike.

Current Situation

Roberto Cavalli SS 2017
Spring/Summer 2017 Collection

In May 2017 Roberto Cavalli brand welcomed its new creative director, British-born designer Paul Surridge. Surridge graduated from Central Saint Martins and has experience working under Calvin Klein, Burberry, and Jil Sander. Paul Surridge displayed his first women’s SS18 collection during Milan Fashion Week.

BROOKS BROTHERS

Brooks Brothers was founded in 1818 by Henry Sands Brooks. It is the oldest men’s clothier in the United States which created the “preppy” look.

The Origin

Brooks Brothers First Factory
First Factory

Brooks Brothers was founded in 1818 by Henry Sands Brooks. He opened his first store, H. & D. H. Brooks & Co., in New York City. Over the years the company developed both retail operations and its own manufacturing business. In 1845 the firm introduced the country’s first ready-made suits. It also continued to create hand-tailored clothing, and supplied suits to dignitaries and presidents including Abraham Lincoln, who was wearing a handmade Brooks Brothers coat the night he was assassinated.

The company revolutionized the American male wardrobe, often drawing for inspiration on classic British designs. Their innovations included silk foulard neckties, polo coats (introduced for men, but soon adopted by girls and women as well), Harris Tweed jackets, Shetland sweaters, and Argyle socks. Also, button-down collars on shirts, inspired by British polo shirts, which became the firm’s signature product and one of its long-standing best-sellers. When the country introduced British club ties in 1945, they reversed the direction of the diagonal stripes, thus creating the American repp tie. The firm opened its first women’s department in 1949, and has since branched into childrenswear and accessories.

Brooks Brothers Style

Brooks Brothers Style
Brooks Brothers Style

Brooks Brothers is the oldest menswear brand of America, setting the standard for men, first, and women’s elegance, after, for almost two centuries. The brands experience came from the world of men’s clothing with the production of uniforms for the New York State troops during the Civil War. Now, it is famous for having introduced ready-made and tailored clothes for men. Also, the way they revolutionized shirt collars with the “button-down” collar in 1896, which they found inspiration from the English polo players. In 1850, the brand adopted the golden fleece logo that is still used today.

Kennedy Wearing Brooks Brothers Suit
Kennedy Wearing Brooks Brothers Suit

Over the years the company has dressed male icons from Clark Gable to John F. Kennedy. The brand became identified, particularly in the late 20th century, with the conservative east coast style, familiarly known as “preppy” or “Ivy League.”

Brand Development

In 2001 Claudio Del Vecchio, President and owner of the Retail Brand Alliance, pays Marks & Spencer $225 million dollars for the brand. The agreement includes the acquisition of 242 single-brand shops. By 2003 the brand had opened 160 shops in the USA, and 67 in Japan, among others. Annual turnover tops $600 million, with 5 million shirts produced yearly. Later, in April, the brand ended its two-year old collaboration with Diego Della Valle, owner of Tod’s.

Brett Hollands by Matt Albiani for Brooks Brothers Fall 2002 Collection
Brett Hollands by Matt Albiani for Brooks Brothers Fall 2002 Collection

In 2004 the brand launched  a special edition CD, which was created exclusively for Brooks Brothers by the Lincoln Center Jazz Orchestra with Wynton. The company had sponsored Jazz at Lincoln Center exclusively since 2001, and all of the performers wear Brooks Brothers outfits. “The Lincoln Center Jazz Orchestra with Wynton Marsalis Plays the Music of Duke Ellington” CD is on sale in selected Brooks Brothers retail store and its official website.

The strength of the brand is the relaxed elegance of the noblest American tradition and the inspiration to a sophisticated sporty look able to stay loyal to the affordable chic ideals sought after since the very early days. For the Fall/Winter 2007-2008 season, they launched the Black Fleece line to testify the evolution of American costume. The collection, distributed through a network of single-brand stores, has been placed into the hands of the American designer, Thom Browne.

Brooks Brothers Black Fleece Line
Black Fleece Line

In 2009, Brooks Brothers entered the Canadian market and opened stores in Vancouver and Toronto. Meanwhile, the brand also opened its first store in Mexico, in Guadalajara. At this time, the brand targeted a more youthful group. The company set its goals to engage with new generations, therefore, they launched a sportswear collection, in addition to a licensed collection, meant for campus bookstores, bearing school logos.

Design for The Great Gatsby

Great Gatsby Actor, Leonardo Di Caprio, Wearing Brooks Brothers
Great Gatsby Actor, Leonardo Di Caprio, Wearing Brooks Brothers

Brooks Brothers and Prada designed costumes for the film, “The Great Gatsby” in 2013. This film represented the most recognizable style from 1920s, and had a certain influence among the fashion world. Brooks Brothers produced 1,700 items for the movie including most of the clothing for every male character including Jay Gatsby (played by Leonardo DiCaprio). After the success of the film,  Brooks Brothers released a limited collection including black bow tie with white tipping worn by Leonardo DiCaprio in the poster of the film.

Creative Directors

Brooks Brothers Zac Posen
Zac Posen Portrait Backstage at Spring 2013 Runway Show

Zac Posen was pointed as Brooks Brothers’ new creative director of women’s clothing and accessories in 2014. Posen is known for his techniques in artisanal craftsmanship. He adopted lush fabrications and buoyant prints, which successfully combined brand heritage with a more feminine touch.

In 2015, after 8 year’s collaboration, Thom Browne announced that he will no longer design for the brand, instead, he will focus on his own label. Black Fleece Fall 2015 season was Thom Browne’s last collection for Brooks Brothers.

Charitable Activity

Social responsibility has always been Brooks Brothers’ most important concerns. Since 2005,  Brooks Brothers has raised nearly $14.5 million for St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital in the fight against childhood cancer and other life threatening diseases. Also, in 2016 Brooks Brothers donated 10% of net sales to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. In addition, the company made a long-term commitment and pledged $20 million for the addition of the Brooks Brothers Computational Center at St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital.

Current Situation

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Brooks Brothers Collaborate With Mike Mellia for Advertisement
Collaboration With Mike Mellia for Advertisement

In 2017 Brooks Brothers chose to collaborate with Instagram influencer Mike Mellia. Mike posted a series of looping videos on his Instagram page which went viral and drew a lots of attention from fashion brands, including Brooks Brothers. The company together with Mike, built a brand new advertising campaign based on Mike’s loop video, and was also featured in the advertisement where he was standing still while objects moved around him.

Later in this year, there was a lawsuit against Brooks Brothers for retail data breach, several clients claims their payment information has been compromised, and Brooks Brothers failed to protect their data.

2018 marks Brooks Brother’s 200 year anniversary, to celebrate its milestone, the company planned a series events and activities in world wild throughout the whole year. According to Brooks Brothers, in January, brand will collaborate with Pitti Immagine Uomo 93 in Florence, Italy, to present its first fashion, follow by a retrospective of Brooks Brothers’ legendary archives.

Currently, Brooks Brothers has over 280 stores in the United States and more than 700 stores globally in 45 countries.

NIKE

Nike is an American brand that sells footwear, apparel, equipment, and accessories.It was founded in beginning of the 1960s, by Phil Knight and Bill Bowman.

The Origin

Nike Owner Bill Bowman in Shop
Nike Owner Bill Bowman in Shop

Nike is the American brand of trainer shoes. It was launched in Oregon, at the beginning of the 1960s, by Phil Knight and Bill Bowman, who later died in 1999. In Greek mythology, Nike was the goddess of victory and represented success in war and athletic competition. It has played a vital role in making trainers the footwear of choice for everyday use, in its many styles, colors, and technologies. It boasts Michael Jordan, the star of the Chicago Bulls and one of the greatest basketball players of all time, as a celebrity endorser.

The same success was achieved at the Olympic Games in Barcelona in 1992 by the American basketball team, the famous Dream Team, made up of the NBA professionals, wearing Nike shoes. It was great publicity. Nike was the first brand to offer, at the beginning of the 1980s, shoes specifically designed for every sporting discipline: jogging, aerobics, body building, running. To remain above their competition, the brand inserted pockets of air in the heel and sole, copying the technique from Dr Martin’s, with the result that Nike Air monopolized the market. In the heart of Manhattan, the company has a highly modern showroom on two floors, organized according to each different sport.

Brand Development

Nike Free Running Shoes
Nike Free Running Shoes

In April 2002 Nike and Philips announced their collaboration to develop electronic equipment designed for physical activities. It began in September with the launch of a CD player adapted to the needs of sporting individuals. The birth of the Nike Presto line of casual clothing, following the success of rapid use shoes without laces. The wider collection includes clothing, watches and bags.

Later in June, the launch of the franchising operation of the European sector of the multinational. The Viennese store (350 square meters) was the first in a series of test spaces opened in Europe within the course of a few months. The multinational aimed to open 100 European stores by 2008. Then, in December there was the inauguration of the Milan store, on two floors in Corso Buenos Aires. In the second quarter of 2002, the total sales in Europe, the Middle East, and Africa increased by 8%. On the American continent, however, sales decreased by 8% for the same period. By 2003 the global launch of shoes for children aged between 1 and 6 years old, inspired by the Lego Bionicle series.

In 2004, Phil Knight leaves his position of CEO and President, but remains as chairman. William D. Perez was appointed as the new CEO. The corporation close this year with revenues exceed $12.25 billion, and made significant donation $37.3 Million in Cash for In-Kind services and more than 4,500 Non-Profits globally, including supporting Youth Physical Activity, which is one of the companies long term commitment to getting kids and teenagers more physically active, increasing their physical activity,  offering them the support and motivation to become physically active, stay healthy and have fun.

The Nike Youth Physical Activity Community Impact
The Nike Youth Physical Activity Community Impact

A year later, Nike became the first company in sports industry to disclose its factory base to encourage industry transparency and collaboration. During this period, Nike signs tennis star Rafael Nadal to be its new spokesperson. The company introduced its signature minimalist running shoes Nike Free, in that time, Nike Free was the most cushioned model in the whole industry.

Sponsorship and Collaborations

In the beginning of 2006, CEO William Perez departs. At this time, the company’s commitment to industry-leading transparency in its social responsibility reporting has led to the company being the top U.S. company and one of the world’s top 10 in the latest Sustainability Global Reporters Program ranking.

Nike Collaboration With Apple Sports Band
Collaboration With Apple Sports Band

In 2007 Nike made a 5-year sponsorship with India cricket team for $43 million. Later in this year, Nike welcomed its new CEO Mark Parker. During this time, Nike teamed up with Apple and created the first collaboration between sport band and technology company, together, Nike+iPod sports kit is launched, this product aimed to help runners to log and monitor their runs through iTunes and Nike+ website. At end of this year, Nike introduced AF 25, after 25 years of Air Force shoe line.

In 2008 Nike launched the Air Jordan XX3, a high-performance and eco-friendly basketball shoes. Also, the Nike Considered Design made its debut, this collection combined sustainability and the latest innovations for sports.

Nike 2008 The Air Jordan XX3
2008 The Air Jordan XX3

The company has provided consumers considered products for several years but for the first time, they considered Design and aimed for it to be featured in all of Nike’s six key categories: basketball, running, football, women’s training, men’s training and sportswear, as well as in tennis and ACG (All Condition Gear).

Also at this time, Nike and The Finish Line Company announced the opening of a new retail experience called Finish Line Ltd Customized to meet the needs of young running and training athletes. The concept store is located at the Chandler Fashion Center near Phoenix, Arizona.

Store Openings

In 2009, Nike opened a flagship store in Tokyo. In 2011 the House reopened the 1948 space in London, which had been closed three years before. Nike set up a space both for the sale and for customer entertainment.

Nike Lab in Tokyo
Nike Lab in Tokyo

2014 marked the new store openings in Berlin, in Rio (exclusively dedicated to football), in San Francisco and in Seoul. Also, they introduced many NikeLab, where people can find both e-commerce and creative spaces. NikeLab is a place where the brand can show how the Company interacts and collaborates with other innovators and designers. In 2015 they introduced new products that help both breathing while running and the temperature control during sports activities.

Nike SNKRS App
Nike SNKRS App

At this time, the company launched a new application called SNKRS, which allows fans to discover and buy new products. It is considered the best sneaker store in the palm of your hand. Recently the brand started to support an environmentally sustainable production. As a matter of fact, Nike spent  $50 million in research and development to change, with  nitrogen, a gas that was already contained in the soles of the Air Max and contributed to global warming. With this change the brand introduced Airmax 360. Some years ago, Nike introduced the customization of the shoes to satisfy extravagant people that want to express their own style. This kind of service is available on the web site and in stores.

A Sustainable Business

Over the years, sustainability plays a critical role at the company, which is also considered a powerful engine for company’s future growth. The company has spent more than a decade embedding sustainability across the company to help technology and innovation to drive new solutions that could deliver for athletes, business and the world. The company has made commitment to reducing carbon emissions to support global carbon budget, environmental footprint, and ensuring their sourcing and manufacturing ecosystem continues to deliver sustainable growth across the entire value chain.

Nike Sustainable Shoes
Sustainable Shoes

In 2016, Nike expanded the European logistics campus, located 50 km outside of Antwerp, using only renewable energy sources, including wind turbines and solar panels. To stay in line with the eco-friendly policy, 95% of waste, produced on site, is exploited to create energy. In addition to reducing waste, in 2016 Nike improved the performance of Nike Flyknit (a pair of shoes that performs since four years from introduction date), being now lighter and more protective, ensuring maximum performance and minimizes waste.

Current Situation

Nike Current January 2017 Campaign
Current January 2017 Campaign

On February 12th 2017, Nike uses its logo to introduce an initiative in favor of respect and loyalty during sport activities. The spot is entitled “Equality” and boasts Michael B. Jordan, LeBron James and Serena Williams among the actors.

Currently, the company has 5 global headquarter in worldwide, 62.6k employee’s, their products can be found in every county in the world, they are sold at 110k retail stores, and during the year of 2017 there were 931 more new stores were opened.

PAUL&SHARK

Paul & Shark is an Italian clothing brand founded in 1975 by Paolo Dini. The company specializes in sailing gear with elements of elegance and performance.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. The Icon
  3. Brand Development
  4. Paul & Shark Technology
  5. Events & Exhibitions
  6. 40th Anniversary
  7. Special Projects 
  8. Current  Situation

The Origin

Paul & Shark Logo
Paul & Shark Logo

Company that specializes in sailing wear, and which has a shark as its logo. Paul & Shark was founded On March 4, 1957 at the Maglificio Daco mill, which was founded in 1921, and was re-opened by Gian Ludovico Dini. Then, nine years later changed its name to Dama S.p.A. The company’s products were shipped worldwide due to partnerships with Christian Dior and Balenciaga.

In 1957 the company renamed to the now known, Paul & Shark. At the start of the 1970s Paolo Dini, the eldest son of Gian Ludovico, was in a sailmaker’s workshop in Maine, where the sail from an old 18th-century clipper caught his eye. The inscription read, “Paul&Shark”. At this time, the brand launched into the sports fashion sector with a collection inspired by the world of sailing and based on elegance and performance.

The Icon

Paul&Shark Iconic Pullover
Paul&Shark Iconic Pullover

In 1978 the famous C0P918 pullover was born. It is a sailing sweater that would go onto become an icon of the Paul&Shark style. The pullover is known for its special packaging, which is a metal can used on board ships as a multi-purpose container. This product was the start of a whole new water repellent knitwear collection. The brand quickly became apart of Italian fashion with high-performance technical materials, and most have been patented by Paul&Shark.

The total look of the brand includes pants, Bermuda shorts, swimsuits, and also jackets, blazers, socks, shoes, and umbrellas. Also, knitwear, using a hi-tech machine washable wool called superwash, and more recently a “total easy care” yarn that dries in a domestic spin-drier. The most recent new lines have been for golf, yachting, and items for divers to wear before and after diving.

Brand Development

In 2010 Paul&Shark signed a joint venture with Reliance Group to enter Indian market, later, company opened a 1,100 sq ft store in the capital city’s luxury mall DLF Emporio. Meanwhile, Andrea Dini, owner and CEO of Paul&Shark also said its biggest challenge in India is to engage with  its discerning consumers.

Later, in 2013 Paul&Shark made its debut in eyewear market and launched a new sunglass collection called Floating sunglasses, made from lightweight polypropylene frames which don’t sink in water.

In 2014 the brand’s global expansion plan is continuing, several new stores were opened during this period: two stores opened in Moscow at  Galereja Moskva,  Paul & Shark’s largest flagship store is opened in Turkey Instanbul, several new opening in Italy for Paul & Shark include major cities and luxury tourist destiny. Alongside the store opening, Paul & Shark also set its goal to entirely renovated and redesigned existing stores following the latest retail store concept of the brand.

Paul & Shark Technology

Paul&Shark Typhoon 20000 Technology
Typhoon 20000 Technology

Over the years, Paul&Shark company has put lots of efforts on its research department in order to get better technology that could be adopted for its tech wears. Result to date, Paul&Shark owns several unique technologies including the typhoon, which is a very innovative technique that was exclusively patented by Paul&Shark. They did this by adopting ultra-soft membrane and revolutionary manufacturing process, Typhoon collection provide best waterproof and windproof performance in any weather condition, and guarantee maximum comfort at all times.

The E.M.W Shield is one mobile phone pockets in garments that Paul&Shark designed for protect body from electromagnetic waves emitted by mobile devices. Paul&Shark’s latest research has brought out 3 in one compact technology which allows 3 threads twisted into one single yarn to give garments more resistance

Events and Exhibitions

The most important event for the inauguration of Paul&Shark was the first Milanese showroom, which took place on January 16, 2015. The sportswear luxury Made in Italy brand officially opened its new space in Via Ciovassino 3, in the heart of the Brera district during Milan Men’s Fashion Week. The guests admired both the new showroom covering an area of 1,000 square metres and the Paul&Shark Autumn/Winter 15-16 collections and accessories presented thanks to the theatrical set-up inspired by the world of water.

Paul Shark Blue Typhoon
Blue Typhoon Installation Created By: Moritz Waldemeyer

Art and fashion blend the magic of light with water in the Blue Typhoon installation, created by the designer Moritz Waldemeyer for Paul & Shark. The brand takes inspiration from the excellence of design by presenting the artwork of the eclectic artist during Design Week 2015, with an exclusive event heldin the elegant spaces of the Milan showroom.

40th Anniversary

Paul & Shark celebrated 40 years of international success with the exclusive event Project 40. The celebratory party took place during Milan Menswear Fashion Week in the brands showroom space in the heart by Brera. Thanks to the collaboration between the fashion brand of luxury sportswear and Wallpaper, the most appreciated design magazine in the world, fashion and design were the main ingredients of the evening in pursuit of the most sophisticated luxury.

Reflecting the strong and decisive personality of the brand, the new Paul&Shark flagship store in Jakarta, which opened on November 24, 2016 already in the Christmassy mood, definitely lives up to its name. The concept is characterised by large illuminated niches that alternate with glass structures in the classic Paul&Shark colors; blue and optical white, a bold contrast between present and future. Situated inside the Pacific Place Indonesia in Jakarta, the boutique covers a surface area of 85 sqm and houses the men and women’s collections.

Special Projects

Paul&Shark Collaboration With Alex Bellini
Collaboration With Alex Bellini

In January 16, 2017 Paul & Shark presented the new Autumn Winter 2017/18 collection and the special FREEZETHEMOMENT project in its showroom in Milan. An extreme adventure that marks the profound changes that are taking place today: Paul&Shark presents the new collaboration with Alex Bellini, the Italian explorer who will set off to face a new solo challenge by climbing the biggest and most impenetrable glaciers in the world.

Alex journey will be followed and recorded day by day by Paul & Shark on its social media channels (Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Youtube) and on its dedicated website freezethemoment.it. The -40 capsule Collection (three technical jackets, a fleece and a pair of trousers designed to withstand arctic temperatures and the extreme conditions of the glacier) will dress Bellini during the expedition. The departure is set for 20 January from Jokulheimar in Iceland, and will continue on foot to Snaefelia, the last outpost west of the Vatnajökull glacier. To recreate the atmosphere of Iceland s glacier, the guests had a chance to admire the collection nestled in display cases and totems that looked like glaciers, as well as being immersed in a charming atmosphere created by a soft haze of smoke and blue lights.

Current Situation

Paul&Shark 2017 Collection
2017 Collection

At the moment, Paul & Shark is available in 73 countries with over 280 mono brand stores worldwide. The company is family-owned and now is runned by Andrea Dini, the third of his generation. The brand is specialized in luxury sportswear within numerous new and high technology garments and is considered green, as its energy is provided by solar panels.

GIANFRANCO FERRÉ

Gianfranco Ferré, the “Architect of Fashion”, is an Italian designer. In 1978, together with Mattioli, he established Gianfranco Ferré S.p.a.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. The Start of His Career
  3. Gianfranco Ferré S.p.a
  4. Creative Director of Dior
  5. Manufacturing
  6. Gianfranco Ferré Acquired by It Holding
  7. Collections
  8. Brand Development
    1. Store Openings
    2. Glasses
    3. Awards
  9. Brand Challenges 
  10. Gianfranco Ferré Closes
  11. Exhibition

The Origin

Gianfranco Ferre Dressing Model 1982
Gianfranco Ferre Dressing Model in 1982

Gianfranco Ferré is an Italian designer who was born in 1944. He is called an “Architect of Fashion” because he graduated from the Polytechnic of Milan in 1969, but also because he worked, as did Krizia, Missoni, and Armani, a style so close to industrial design, which is a characteristic of Italian prêt-à-porter.

“I’m very proud of my education as an architect, of the analytic and logical method which teaches one how to be creative, but I also try not to fall into the trap of the overly-structured or of abstract simplification”, Gianfranco says.

He has always been proud of his provincial and middle-class origins. Born in Legnano, a small town in hard-working Lombardy, to a family of small industrialists, he has never cut himself off from his roots. When he’s not traveling around the world, he returns every night to his father’s house, a small villa from the early 1900s. The villa is a mirror of his life and personality, and the place where he stores his memories and collections, including paintings of contemporary art and singular objects found during his travels, often in local antique markets, such as tie pins, which have become his trademark.

Gianfranco Ferre Sailor Glam Shirt SS 1982 Silk Organza Honeycomb Patterned Cotton Pique
Sailor Glam Shirt SS 1982 Silk Organza Honeycomb Patterned Cotton Pique. Photographed by Luca Stoppini

He has also been called the “Gran Lombardo,” or “the Big Man from Lombardy,” due to his powerful physique, and he is flattered by this because it expresses his perseverance, his capacity for work, and also his pleasure in daily routines and his taste for the things that he turns into fashion. These materials are the source of his best intuitions, such as the white shirt, a basic element of a man’s wardrobe, that was transformed into an instrument of seduction, female power, and pleasure. It is also seen in his choice of fabrics, in the different cuts (floating like a sail in the wind, shaped to the body, or even in a stretch and wafer-thin fabric), and in his invitation to a richer and more sophisticated expressiveness in the design of cuffs and collars.

The Start of his Career

Gianfranco Ferre 1990
Gianfranco Ferre 1990

His attention to refined, cultivated and often opulent details began long ago, with his first work experiences and his stays in India, which were fundamental to his education. He started his career designing belts and jewellery and worked with Albini in the early 1970s. At that time, he began life as a commuter, and this was the rhythm of his university years, with a continued back-and-forth between Legnano and Milan. He would leave at dawn for Genoa by train, in order to design, starting in 1972, for the raincoat company Sangiorgio. This taught him the rules of industrial manufacturing. On the train, he would meet the two people most important to him in his career: Rita Airaghi, from Legnano, a distant cousin with a degree in Italian literature and medieval Latin, who would become his alter ego; and Franco Mattioli, a clothing entrepreneur from Bologna who would be his business partner for 25 years, from 1974 to 1999.

Gianfranco Ferré S.p.a.

Gianfranco Ferre FW 87 Photographed by Herb Ritts
Fall/Winter 87 Photographed by Herb Ritts

In 1978, together with Mattioli, he established Gianfranco Ferré S.p.a.. That year he also presented his first women’s prêt-à-porter collection under his own name, at the Grand Hotel Principe di Savoia in Milan, and later made his début with a men’s collection in 1982. It was an international success and the start of a brilliant career. “Ferré has kept astonishing us for 20 years”, the American journalist Dawn Mello wrote in Vogue Italy in October 1998.

“His début collection showed the first minimalist style: clean, simple lines for a refined sportswear. As Dior’s couturier, he developed a rich and voluptuous style that was admired for its elegance and spectacular nature. Today he enters the new millennium with a strong and specific vision that is deeply connected to his architectural education.”

Creative Director of Dior

Much discussed, especially in chauvinistic terms, was his selection in 1989 by Bernard Arnault, the leader of the LVMH group, to take the place of Marc Bohan as artistic director of Dior.

Gianfranco Ferre Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 96 Show in France
Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 96 Show in France

By 1986, Ferré had made his début on the Italian high fashion runways in Rome, showing his tailoring ability through the cut and in the line of his clothes, in a dream-like vision of dressing and the wise use of materials, even unusual ones, borrowed from design, like straw from Vienna.

“The Paris experience was really unique and was intended to restore haute couture and the house of Dior to their proper roles”, the designer said in a 1997 interview with Panorama, speaking about his consensual divorce from the French Maison. “After eight years it was time to devote myself to my own company, also because I felt a growing sense of expectation on the part of the public that likes my style. Through this adventure, I have realized that certain things belong just to me. Because, after all, I did create some milestones in fashion, for example the use of the nude in 1988, nylon, and see-throughs”.

Manufacturing

Once back at his company full time, in his studio on via della Spiga in Milan, Ferré followed from up close the work on his new headquarters in the former Gondrand building on via Pontaccio, near the Brera. It was 78,000 square feet and opened in October 1998, showing the new face of the Ferré brand, with eight lines of clothing and accessories.

Gianfranco Ferre Vogue Sep 1991 AD Featuring Aly Dunne Photographed by Gianpaolo Barbieri
Vogue Sep 1991 AD Featuring Aly Dunne Photographed by Gianpaolo Barbieri

The turnover in 1997 was 1,400 billion liras, of which 75% was exported. Of that, 40% went to the U.S. and Japan. The firm has more than 400 stores for fashions and accessories, including proprietary shops and franchises. There is a license for perfumes with Diana de Silva. In 1997, the designer strengthened his relationship with his manufacturing partners, including Itierre from Isernia, a producer and distributor of jeans and sportswear, and the Marzotto group. He had been working with Marzotto since 1987, designing the G.F. Studio and GFF men’s and women’s collections.

Since 1987, he has designed fur collections produced and distributed by Mondialpelli. Furs and leather are among the materials that interest him the most. In 1995, Ferré was the subject of a biography written by the journalist Edgarda Ferri and published by Longanesi.

Gianfranco Ferré at Ferré's Fall/Winter 1996 Collection in Milan
Gianfranco Ferré at Ferré’s Fall/Winter 1996 Collection in Milan

The bustier with small bone inlays sewn with raffia became a cult fashion, as did silk that wrapped the figure and became a sort of asymmetric tunic, a light cloth with soft draping; and cloth cut in small superimposed rectangles for unique models which seemed to take off.

In October 2001 he arrives in Miami and choose to open his boutique in the prestigious neighborhood of Bal Harbour Shops, on the other side of Miami Beach. Opened in 1965, this architectural complex has the most famous haute couture boutiques.

Gianfranco Ferré Acquired by IT Holding

 In 2002 It Holding, a company owned by the Molise entrepreneur Tonino Perna, acquires 90% of Gianfranco Ferré S.p.a. The transaction is to be completed within the month of June for a sum of €161.7 million. Ferré has 10% of the shares and the position of President. During this time, “Look to the future,” is the motto of the new GF Ferré collection for young people. It takes the place of the GFF and Ferré Jeans brands, and makes its début at Milano Moda Uomo in June 2002. Inspired by urban life, it is completed with a line of accessories (bags, eyeglasses, shoes, and beachwear). The clothing is manufactured by Itierre, the accessories by other firms belonging to the It Holding group owned by Tonino Perna.

 

Gianfranco Ferre 2002 Fall/Winter Collection
2002 Fall/Winter Collection

Also, Ferré’s design met Allison’s technology. The new model of eyeglasses were named Pure Magnesium because they were made from 92% pure magnesium. Very light, non-allergic, and resistant to atmospheric agents, it is produced in four versions.

By the end of 2002 Ferré and It Holding agree to bring all licenses within the group. This decision should raise the turnover by 50%. Ferré produced only the first line in house, the others were manufactured on license. At the expiration of the contracts, the lines produced by Marzotto (men’s and women’s clothing) go to ITC (Bologna), the eyewear to Allison (Padua), the perfumes to ITF (Lodi), the shoes, bags, and leather accessories to PAF (a new company near Florence which for the men’s line at first relies on Mantelassi), and Jeans Couture to Itierre (Isernia). For men’s clothing, in cooperation with Saint Andrew’s (Cantarelli Group) the “custom made” program is relaunched.

Collections

Gianfranco Ferre 2002 AD
Gianfranco Ferre 2002 AD

The Winter 2002-2003 collection was unforgettable and incredible. Full of the weaving motif shown in: ermine, chinchilla, cashmere, even organza and taffetas, all knitted using ancient methods of sock manufacture. Gianfranco was inspired by the world of emotions, sensations for a look that is enlivened by the exchange of different and far off cultures. He is an explorer of a very wide cultural and costume heritage, and then his willingness, a sophisticated divertissement, to pick an era to dress.

This is how, for Winter 2003-2004, he proposed the Bonaparte “citizen”. The collection featured dresses which looked like columns, with very uplifted breasts that emphasized the neckline à la Pauline Borghese, alternating with very luxurious superstar punk stud jackets, in a waterfall of small chains and delicate cameos. The looks were a mixture of ancient and at the same time modern preciousness, which matched precise forms and eccentric designs. Even in accessories, the bags, in pony skin and snake skin, had a scepter-shaped handle made of real silver.

Gianfranco Ferre 2004 Fall/Winter Collection
2004 Fall/Winter Collection

For men, Ferré prefers the more classic typologies of urban dressing, with the ease of a casual spirit. His griffe is at the center of global plans to offer a new, complete identity, worked out in the Milan headquarters with great attention to the different production and distribution needs of It Holding. In June 2002 Gianfranco Ferré donated more than 32 models chosen from among the most representative of this career to the Costume Gallery of Palazzo Pitti. Also, the new GF line for children, produced by Valtib, was released.

Brand Development

Store Openings

Gianfranco Ferre Store at London
Gianfranco Ferre Store at London

In January 2003, with the new year, an intense 2-year program of new shops and the renovation of already-existing shops is put into effect. The first is in Paris, at Avenue Montaigne 51, and celebrated by the presentation of a collection at the Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume. Later, in February, the most important shop, the one in Milan on via Sant’Andrea, is reopened, completely renovated. The architect Ferré personally follows the work. Enlarged to 5,000 square feet on two levels, it has men’s and women’s collections in two symmetrical areas near the entrance to the building, which was once the site of Biki’s atelier. On the left is the men’s space, on the right the women’s, linked by a common hall. The real novelty is the creation, together with E’Spa, of another attraction: the refined Spa at Gianfranco Ferré, an oasis of relaxation dedicated to fitness and well-being.

Glasses

In April 2003 the design of eyeglasses continues after magnesium, which as of now is made of 18 carat gold, combined and fused with titanium. A high-tech essential, with daylight lenses, and very precious. A year later, the company presents the new young fragrances GF Ferré Lei and GF Ferré Lui in Paris.

Awards

Gianfranco Ferre Receiving Awards 2004
Gianfranco Ferre Receiving Awards 2004

In September 2004  receives a career award, the “Chi è Chi del Giornalismo e della Moda” (‘Who’s Who of Journalism and Fashion’), and an acknowledgment from the Region of Lombardy as the “fashion creator who has developed a style similar to design and industrial planning, turning personal talent into an entrepreneurial reality”. A year later in February 2005, during a gala at La Scala in Milan, he received the “Longobard Seal,” conferred on people from Lombardy who “in their respective fields have contributed to enrich the cultural, civil, and artistic heritage of the region”.

In March 2005 Gianfranco Ferré designed new uniforms for Korean Air and are presented in Seoul. The uniforms are blue for pilots and black for ground personnel, made lighter with beige and sea-blue green and light blue celadon. Also at this time, at the request of Fashion in Motion, he presented 60 pieces during a show at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Brand Challenges

Gianfranco Ferré Fall/Winter 2009
Gianfranco Ferré Fall/Winter 2009

The great designer died on June 17, 2007 and the whole world of fashion was in mourning. On January 16, 2008, Lars Nilsson became creative director of the Ferré fashion house. He left his position after a few months. Then, on September 23, 2008, two young talented designers, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, known as the creators of 6267 label and winners of the Who’s on next competition in 2005, inherited the artistic direction of the Maison Ferré.

In 2009 the company Gianfranco Ferré enters into a crisis, at the same time as Itierre, the company to which Ferré delegated the manufacturing. A year later, the commissioners undertook a request for the cancellation of the lease for the headquarter in via Pontaccio, Milan.

In 2010, on the occasion of the presentation of the spring-summer collection, the latest innovation is the launch of a complete line of jewelry called Jewellery Collection.

Gianfranco Ferré Closes

On 11 March 2011, Gianfranco Ferré was sold by IT Holding Group to the Paris Group of Dubai. The new company immediately began to globally restructure the brand, and replaced many of the designers. In early 2014, Ferré announced the permanent closure of any activities in Italy. The brand is not sold, but kept and not used by the properties.

Exhibition

Gianfranco Ferre White Shirt Exhibition 2014
White Shirt Exhibition in Phoenix 2014

To Gianfranco, the white shirt was more than just a classic. During his career, he deconstructed and reconstructed its basic elements, infusing them with unique details. The Gianfranco Ferré Foundation wanted to highlight this part of Gianfranco’s career because it represented his brand identity. So, on November 4, 2015 the exhibition “The White Shirt According to Me. Gianfranco Ferré” was debuted at The Phoenix Art Museum. It was produced and designed by the Gianfranco Ferré Foundation in Milan and by the Prato Textile Museum. The exhibition showcased Ferré’s most significant white shirts, technical designs, photographs and videos from the archives of the Gianfranco Ferré Foundation.

Gianfranco Ferre Phoenix Classic Glamour White Shirt
The Phoenix Classic Glamour White Shirt

NAOMI CAMPBELL

Naomi Campbell is an English model who was recruited at the age of 15. Her career quickly began and she appeared on British and French Vogue by 18.

The Beginning: Synchro Model Agency

Mame Fashion Dictionary: Naomi Campbell Young Naomi
Young Naomi Posing for the Camera

Naomi Campbell was born in 1970  in Streatham, London. She has chestnut hair and brown eyes, but she wears colored contact lenses, blue and green. She studied at Dunraven School and the London Academy for Performing Arts, Italia Conti Academy stage school and appeared in music videos for Bob Marley. Then, she was discovered at the age of 15 while walking in Covent Garden, by Beth Boldt of the model agency Synchro.

After being discovered she was signed on by the agency and her career quickly took off. She traveled to Paris regularly and meet Azzedine Alaïa, who she became close with and meet many celebrities through him.

The Golden Years

Vogue

Naomi Campbell French Vogue Cover 1988
French Vogue Cover 1988

In December 1987, she appeared on the cover of British Vogue, as that publication’s first black cover girl since 1966. Then, in August 1988 at the age of 18, she was the first black woman to appear on the cover of Vogue France. A year later, she appeared on the cover of the September issue of American Vogue, which was said to be the most sold.

Supermodel

Naomi Campbell Supermodels Shot by Herb Ritts
Supermodels Shot by Herb Ritts

Through the 80s and 90s she gained the status of a top model and was considered one of the six models of her generation declared supermodels by the fashion industry. She walked the catwalk for designers: Gianni Versace, Azzedine Alaïa, Ralph Lauren, BlueMarine, Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Isaac Mizrahi. Also, she has modeled for famous photographers such as Peter Lindbergh, Herb Ritts and Bruce Weber.

In April 1992, she appeared on the hundredth-anniversary cover of American Vogue, shot by Patrick Demarchelier, with several other top models. And a year later in 1993 She famously fell on the catwalk in Vivienne Westwood‘s foot-high platform shoes, which were later displayed at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Her Struggles

Naomi Campbell Vogue 100 Anniversary 1990
? Naomi Campbell Vogue 100 Anniversary 1990

Through 1998 to 2009 there were several cases after being accused 11 different times over the years of acting out against employees, associates and other individuals. She was convicted in Toronto in 1998 of assaulting her assistant with a mobile phone. By 2006, several other employees had come forward with claims of abuse. She has pled guilty at least four times and has attended anger management classes, completed community service ?and paid fines. Along with this, she was banned from British Airways after an incident mid-air.

Elite Model Management, which had represented Campbell since 1987, fired her in September 1993, on the grounds that “no amount of money or prestige could further justify the abuse” to staff and clients. Elite founder John Casablancas described her as “manipulative, scheming, rude and impossible.” She was known for her whimsical temper and jet set love affairs including the boxer Mike Tyson, the dancer Cortes, the entrepreneur Flavio Briatore, and Usher.

Fashion Cafe

Elle McPherson, Claudia Schiffer, and Naomi Cambell Fashion Cafe Launch
Elle McPherson, Claudia Schiffer, and Naomi Cambell Fashion Cafe Launch

Naomi decided to diversify her activities, and, with her colleagues Elle McPherson and Christy Turlington, started the Fashion Café. The business venture was not successful and the directors were arrested for fraud, bankruptcy and money laundering in 1998. Then, she co-wrote the book Swan, recorded a couple of songs and created the album Babywoman. Also, she has participated in the videos of famous singers like Michael Jackson, presented her own fragrance, and had a doll and a wax statue at Madame Tussaud’s reproducing her features dedicated to her. So far, the thing she does best remains on the runways.

For over twenty years, Naomi Campbell has worn clothes that designers put on her, but also interpreted them, giving them life. In 2007, she walked the catwalk for Dior‘s 60th-anniversary fashion show at Versailles.

Various Activities

In 2013 she launched her reality series, The Face. The series is about a group of aspiring models competing against each other. Campbell is the producer and a coach for the show.  

In 2014, at the age of 44, Naomi is ready to go permanently down from the catwalk and to get behind the scenes of fashion, and opened a charity shop in London’s Westfield shopping center, called Fashion For Relief. The shop also sells fashion clothes and accessories to celebrities and friends as Kate Moss.

Naomi Campbell Fashion For Relief Show 2015
Fashion For Relief Show 2015

Fashion For Relief has presented shows in New York, London, Cannes, Moscow, Mumbai  and Dar es Salaam, and has raised millions of dollars for various causes. Campbell has remained an activist who has fought for the welfare of children in Africa alongside Nelson Mandela since 1997.

Between the end of 2015 and the beginning of 2016 a wide range of products signed by the model is launched for TCC, a leading company in loyalty programs. The products, including jewelry, textile articles for the house, bags and luggage have been used by retail chains, franchise or not, to reward customers in loyalty campaigns.

Current Situation

Naomi Campbell Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show a Tribute to Gianni Versace
Versace Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show a Tribute to Gianni Versace

In 2017 Campbell launches silver jewelry and luxury gift items, becoming an ambassador of a brand that is launching its first store in Northern Ireland.

Milan Spring Summer 2018 Fashion Week’s epic moment turns out to be Versace’s runway show, where the original supermodels: Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Carla Bruni, and Helena Christensen,  return back to the runway in golden dress, to pay tribute to the late designer Gianni Versace. The reunion moment is really memorable, audience welcomed the top five models with applause and standing ovation.

By 2018 Naomi Campbell has graces the cover of over 500 magazines, walked the runway for countless luxury brands, and has continued her charity work in South Africa and around the world.  

MOSCHINO

Moschino is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino. Known as the enfant terrible of fashion due to its unconventional ways.

Index

  1. The Origin
  2. Moschino Style
  3. Cheap & Chic
  4. Exhibition: Enfant Terrible
  5. Moschino Acquire by Ferretti Group
  6. Collections
  7. Brand Development
    1. Watches
    2. Official Partners
  8. Supporting Charity
  9. Jeremy Scott
  10. Current Situation

The Origin

Franco Moschino (1950-1994) was an iconoclastic designer who never wanted to be known as such. He arrived at the top by overturning all the rules: of good taste, style, advertising, presentations, and runway shows. The industry called Moschino the enfant terrible of Italian fashion, which means a person who behaves in an unconventional or controversial way.

Franco Moschino
Franco Moschino

Franco Moschino studied Fine Arts at the Accademia di Brera in Milan. He planned to be a painter, but his role as an illustrator for Versace in 1971 set him on the fashion road. In 1977 he was fashion designer for the historic Italian label Cadette, where he honed his skills and developed his own precise stylistic language.

Moschino Style

Moschino Stop the Fashion System Collection
Stop the Fashion System Collection

In 1983 he started his own label, with an explosive mix of paradoxes, challenges, and elegance which criticized and mocked the excesses of the fashion system and the paroxysmal society which was the image of the 1980s. The company founded by Franco Moschino, Moonshadow S.r.l., debuted with its first collection, which was ironic, surreal, ingenious, perverse, and totally represented Moschino’s style. Ironically, his style declared “stop the fashion system,” but its success was because of that system. A theorist of freedom and improvisation, he claimed not to be an inventor, but a “restaurant trying to provide those well-cooked traditional dishes which were invented by unknown cooks.”

Moschino Fall/Winter 1988 Campaign
Fall/Winter 1988 Campaign

His work did indeed revisit all the aesthetics of the century, adopting and reworking them with a hybrid injection of humor. He replaced the buttons of Chanel-style suits with windmills, and embroidered black sheath dresses with their price. He made skirts out of ties, jackets with fried eggs on the pockets, T-shirts emblazoned “Moschifo” (schifo means “disgusting” in Italian), dressed printed with the words “no dress no stress,” tops with trompe-l’oeil breasts.

Moschino Patches Blazer 1990
Patches Blazer 1990

He continued to break the rules with multiple sleeve shirts, multicolored blazers, waistcoats printed with cartoons, suits with appliquéd symbols of geese, Andalusian skirts made out of tartan, and toreador-style evening jackets. His personal style, despite being unpredictable and striking, was in fact based on classic, well-made shapes, perfectly cut and with seductive details which proved attractive to all markets.

Cheap & Chic

Moschino 1987 Fashion Show
1987 Fashion Show

The first line to be launched was Moschino Couture, and soon after came Cheap & Chic, Donna and Uomo, Moschino Jeans, lingerie, swimwear, bags, scarves, jewelry, perfume, all of which broke with fashion clichés. Publications, advertisements, and runway shows were similarly full of surprises. He would send pairs of knickers to actresses instead of invitations, he made his models go down the runway on their knees, he appeared in his own adverts in disguise, and created a fake Cardinal to promote his range of jeans.

Moschino Cheap & Chic Fragrance
Cheap & Chic Fragrance

Moschino created a scent for men with a two-headed bottle, and his women’s fragrance was provided with a drinking straw. He published Dadaist catalogues and created every kind of provocative entertainment imaginable, saying

“There is no creativity without chaos. The Moschino concept is based on complete freedom of choice. There are no rules. You wear whatever color you want, and if you still like what you were wearing last year, you can wear it this year, and next year if you want.”

All of this of course rang a strange note in a period where prêt-à-porter ruled, and labels dictated fashion.

The Exhibition: Enfant Terrible

Moschino 1999 AD Campaign
1999 AD Campaign

In 1993 the show Ten Years of Chaos was released at the Permanente di Milano. It was a journey through thousands of Moschino’s creative anomalies, culminated in an exhibition of paintings where the designer revealed to the public for the first time his original persona, that of a painter. The exhibition was held at the end of 10 years of the life and work of this enfant terrible of Italian fashion, who in this short period had left an indelible mark on the world which he so wanted to challenge, becoming himself a cult figure, and obtaining cult status for his clothes.

Moschino Acquired by Ferretti Group

Moschino passed away on September 1994 from AIDs. His staff, under the leadership of his closest collaborator, Rossella Jardini, have continued his work and succeeded in the miracle of consolidating the success of the brand. In 1995, the city of Florence granted Franco Moschino the Pitti Immagine Award. Later, in June 1999, for the first collection of Moschino Life, presented a new version of the famous “survival jacket”, designed in 1991. Later in Fall, the brand was taken over by the Ferretti Group. In the following years, many exhibitions took place, always praising Franco and his professional life. In March 2001 the brand presented a chronological collection of images of the windows designed by the charismatic “monellaccio” (rascal). Two years later, during summer, some paintings that Franco Moschino made in 1989 were exhibited for the first time in Rome.

Collections

In 2002 the brand released the memorable “On the road” men’s collection, combining vintage pieces with sports and formalwear. This was a paradoxical look, covering every possibility, and contradicted everything with which we were familiar. The collection was ingeniously invented; the disorder was delightful. The same approach was taken for the womenswear collections in the cheeky 2003-2004 fall/winter show, which saw a complete mechanic’s overall decorated with frills, and a necklace made out of a metal spring-catch.

Moschino Fall/Winter 2003 Collection
Fall/Winter 2003 Collection

Prêt-à-jouer will always be the way for Moschino. The range continues to produce the thousand anomalies which continue, as in the past, to turn some items into genuine status symbols. Irony and unbridled fantasy go hand-in-hand, particularly in the Cheap & Chic diffusion line. One style, many styles, for those with more enthusiasm than money. Fashion as the art of putting an outfit together in total freedom. Blazers with no buttons which fasten with a safety-pin, or sprinkles of sequins on patched pants.

Brand Development

Later in May the company entered a joint venture with Bluebell Far East (49.9%), Moschino (50.1%) created Moschino Far East, to aid distribution in the Far Eastern market, including Japan. Sales of €70 million were envisaged by 2006. This is an agreement that seals the long collaboration between these two businesses: Bluebell has been distributor for Moschino in the East since 1989, apart from in Japan, where distribution has been managed until now by Sanki Shoji.

Moschino 2001 SS CampaignMame Fashion Dictionary: Moschino 2001 SS Campaign
2001 Spring/Summer Campaign

Then in July, they signed a licensing contract with Sector to produce a collection of watches under the name of Moschino. The Sector Group, with 15 production partners worldwide, had 150 employees and sales of around €90 million in 2001. It was responsible for around 14% of watchmaking in Italy.

In 2002 the label celebrated its 20th birthday. The first Parisian store (with seven windows) was opened at 32 Rue de Grenelle, in the 7th arrondissement, and a shop was opened in central Moscow, in the Petrovsky Passage Mall. The Moschino brand has a distribution network of 24 dedicated stores, and 31 franchises in department stores. Shares in Moschino Spa are held 70% by Aeffe and 30% by Sportswear International, and in 2001 sales equaled €285 million.

Watches

In July 2003 they launched a store in the Rome full of the new Moschino watches, the heart-shaped “Time 4 love” and “Time 4 Peace.” Each has charms representing symbols of peace, love, a lucky horn, and the initial “M” of the late designer. “I love 4 ways” has a linked chain, inspired by old pocket watches. “I love Moschino” has a leather strap, and “My name is Moschino” a traditional metal strap.

Moschino Watches
Moschino Watches

A year later, Vincent Darré, head of creation and development of the Moschino collection from 2001 to 2004 left the label to become artistic director at Emanuel Ungaro.

Official Partners

In 2007, under the leadership of Thierry Andreatta (CEO from 2007 to 2009), Moschino opened a new boutique in New Dehli, India, where it first expanded in 2005. In May, the first headquarters in Eastern Europe was opened in Lithuania.

In 2007 important agreements were concluded with several partners. Including Scienward International Holdings Limited for the franchise and distribution in China, Allison for creating and distributing Moschino’s eyewear, Binda Group for the manufacture and marketing of watches and jewelry. In 2008 the teen and baby collections were launched too. 

The same year, in collaboration with Independent Ideas, Lapo Elkan’s communications agency, Moschino presented Love Moschino collection, a new face for the twenty-year Moschino Jeans collection. The strategy was to renew it, making it more appealing for new generations.

In March 2008, the new fragrance Hippy Fizz was launched in the market, produced and distributed by Euroitalia. Then, in September, the boutique of New York was opened. Also, in 2009 stores were opened in Dubai, Saudi Arabia and Shanghai. Then a year later in Vietnam. At this point, Moschino’s expansion now reached every corner of the world.

Moschino Spring/Summer 2010 Collection
Spring/Summer 2010 Collection

The original interest of Franco Moschino towards modernity has remained at the center of the company. In 2010, under the supervision of Rossella Jardini, in collaboration with Jo Ann Tan, Maison Moschino was inaugurated in Milan, now NH Milano Palazzo Moscova. Moschino represents a fairytale world where fashion is a means to celebrate the values and the joy of living.

Supporting Charity

Active in the social, Moschino signed numerous collaborations to help children and associations. In 2007, Moschino supported Amref by selling some of its design on Yoox. In the same year, Unicef asked the brand to make a plexi doll for fundraising for the prevention and care of children with HIV. The following year, in collaboration with the Isetan Shinjuku Department Store in Tokyo, Moschino presented a series of mini dresses from the spring/summer 2008 collection, whose proceeds were donated to the Red Cross of Tokyo to support children.

Jeremy Scott

Jeremy Scott Creative Director of Moschino
Jeremy Scott Creative Director of Moschino

In 2014 the brand started to relaunch, with the appointment of the new creative director, Jeremy Scott. Scott was born in 1974 in Missouri, USA, and studied at the Pratt Institute in New York. In 1990 he launched his own line with a fashion show in Paris. Scott’s brand has a very sophisticated pop style, using very bright colors, lettering, symbols and icons taken revisited from the eighties and nineties. The sporty style helped the designer to forge several partnerships with activewear brands as Adidas.

The company appointed Scott after Rossella Jardini, former Moschino creative director,  presented her last collection collection for the Italian fashion house during Milan Fashion Week. Jeremy Scott has been noted in recent years also for a very direct communication on social networks, where he posted accessories and extravagant clothes. Also, his friendship with international pop stars like Rihanna, Nicki Minaj and Katy Perry, who began to wear his clothes at concerts and public appearances, thus increased his fame.

Jeremy Scott With Celebrities Wearing Moschino Collection
Jeremy Scott With Celebrities Wearing Moschino Collection

In February 2014 the first collection by Jeremy Scott was presented, inspired by some American icons, including McDonald’s. Someone criticized the choice, others appreciated. Another novelty is the elimination of Cheap & Chic line and the birth of the “Boutique Moschino” line. The brand announced that the “Moschino Boutique” line targets a wider market and that prices will be about 40% lower than the main line.

Moschino Jeremy Scott 2014
Jeremy Scott Collection for Moschino 2014

The first positive results of the new course of Moschino contributed to Aeffe sales results, which acquired the brand in 1999. There were in fact revenues of €251.5 million, an increase of 0.2% compared to last year. Also, the sale of the Spring/Summer 2015 collections has increased by 15% from a year earlier. Then, in 2015 Jeremy Scott wins the “Womenswear Designer of the Year”.

At the same year, Moschino and Barbie teamed up for a partnership, produced a Moschino Barbie doll and 8 pieces Moschino ready-to-wear collection. Then, during 2016 spring summer fashion week, Moschino launched a new capsule collection called “Clothed For Construction.” This capsule collection is also designed by Jeremy Scott and only available on online.

Moschino Barbie Spring/Summer 2015 Collection
Barbie Spring/Summer 2015 Collection

Current Situation

In July 2017 Moschino launched a limited makeup collection by collaborating with Sephora. This collaboration bring out the best combination of beauty products and luxe accessories. The brand’s signature playfulness together with Sephora’s high quality beauty products served both bold Moschino women and everyone else.

Moschino Limited Makeup Collection
Moschino Limited Makeup Collection