20/100 Vincent Dumas

A label of men’s ready-to-wear fashion. It debuted in 1993. Clearly, the 20/100 name is a French pun: “vingt-cent” sounds like “Vincent.” The French designer Dumas designed clothing that attempted to escape from the rigid strictures of men’s apparel. He named two of his runway presentations Afrique and Paris Jazz.

2Link

The name of a chain of trend-setting boutiques. Behind it is the aesthetic and commercial supervision of Alberto Bellotti. In 1998, the first retail outlet was founded in Cantù (near Como), with a line of products that was a mix of home furnishings and design (80 percent) and fashion. Two years later, the company set up its first franchised store in Siena and the store in Milan in the Largo La Foppa, marking a decided shift in the product mix toward the fashion sector. In 2001, 2Link opened a store in Como in the Via Olginati and Bellotti’s product mix moved almost entirely away from design and toward finding new designers and fashion trends in the segment of medium-high to upscale fashion. In 2003, he opened another Milanese store in Via Solferino 45. In brief, a strong period of growth in the context of a “strong consumer abandonment of certain types of products, especially in the fashion sector,” as Bellotti recalled. “Ready-to-wear fashion was created to bring fashion to an increasingly broad market share, and it had rapidly risen to price points that were ‘not suitable’ for that purpose. It completely abandoned the real needs of the end consumer. Manufacturers and marketers have never really become ‘acquainted’ and have never learned to created the powerful synergies that are necessary in a period of ‘lean times.'” In the rapid consumer abandonment of fashion as fashion, a major role was also played by the social phenomenon of ‘vintage’ clothing, of ‘unhemmed’ items, of the ‘false poverty’ look which makes it unacceptable to show up at a party or a dinner ‘dressed in brand-new outfits.’ Only a few really ‘strong’ labels, with appropriate marketing and sales network, will survive, and there will be more room for small labels with a correct price-to-quality ratio.” The 2Link stores were designed by the architect Pillet.

31 Février

Brand of purses, created in 1987 by Hélène Népomiatzi and Marc Gourmelen. The line is noted for the originality and the irony of the creations. More than actual purses for daily use, these are surprising accessories. The pair debuted as designers for Lagerfeld and continued work with the leitmotiv of unpredictability. They also have a a seconda line called Jour Férié and a show room in Paris in the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

A Bathing Ape

Fashion brand of prêt-à-porter created in 1993 by the Japanese stylist Nigo after working as a journalist for various underground periodicals. The griffe style is especially targeted to young people, accompanied by a wide choice of accessories and furniture.

A.F Vandervorst

Business name of two Belgian designers. Their first women’s Collection was presented in Paris in March 1998 with a brand that combined his initials, A.F. for Filip Arickx, with her surname, (An) Vandervorst. With their second Collection they won the Vénus de la Mode award for future great designers. After attending the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of Antwerp together, he joined the atelier of Dirk Bikkembergs and for several years she designed accessories for Dries van Noten. Their work is strongly influenced by contemporary art, especially by the works of the German artist Joseph Beuys. They designed the Ruffo Research line of leather goods. The brand also includes a line of shoes and accessories and a lingerie Collection whch they named Nightfall.

A.n.g.e.l.o.

Firm specialized in second-hand clothes. They import, select and, in the slang of the industry, make the garments “hygienic” for bulk and retail sale. Founded in 1979 by Angelo Caroli and Mario Gulmanelli, it has its headquarters in Lugo di Romagna with more than 10,000 square feet in which garments from the late 1800s up to the 1990s are collected. Some 30,000 articles of clothing are available for rent and use in video and film. The firm distributes its recycled clothes through thirteen points of sale, including privately-owned shops, franchises, and kiosks, all over Italy.
&Quad;2001, January. Milan hosts an exhibition about camouflage, in which some thirty original pieces from the armies of different countries around the world are reused as fashion accessories.
&Quad;2001, February. Special appearance during an episode of the television program Link dedicated to vintage clothing. The firm is mentioned as a major resource for second-hand clothes in Italy.
&Quad;2001, June. Birth of the line A.n.g.e.l.o. Gold for recycled men’s clothing in Spring-Summer 2002.
&Quad;2002, March. The Vintage Palace, which is the firm’s headquarters, in cooperation with the municipality of Lugo di Romagna, organizes the exhibit L’eleganza ai tempi della Callas (“Elegance in the Era of Callas”). On display are garments and accessories of the 1950s.
&Quad;2003, July. At the same time as the presenations of Pitti Filati, an exhibit Vintage Selection A.n.g.e.l.o takes place at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence. The firm shows its line of men’s and women’s wear for summer, military-style jackets, swimwear, handbags, and shoes.

A.P.C.

Atelier de Production et de Création, acronym adopted by the designer Jean Touitou (Tunis, 1951). After completing his studies in history and linguistics, fields far away from fashion, he chose fashion and was hired by Kenzo and Agnès B. He made his début with this brand in 1987 and favored a low profile. He became known for the skilled cut of his tailoring, exclusive fabrics, and a taste for historical references. He prefers a basic, minimalist and rigorous style. It is precise in a pure way, with workmanship that can be appreciated only from close up and to which the runways cannot do justice. The atelier also busies itself with things that have nothing to do with fashion, including the production of olive oil. In 1995 he launched his own record company producing, for example, discs by Sofia Coppola and Marc Jacobs. Six years later, he invested in a DVD film by Zoe Cassavetes. In the A.P.C. mail order catalogue, which benefits from the work of Eley Kishimoto and Jessica Ogden, he offers clothes by Anna Sui and Martine Sitbon. Touitou has three boutiques in Paris, one in London and four in Japan.
&Quad;1991. The first boutique in Japan and, the following year, another in New York, in Soho. The launch of the mail order catalog. After the opening of a boutique in Paris in the 6th Arrondissement, he also begins to sell on the Internet.
&Quad;1998. He arrives in London where he produces several music compilations.
&Quad;2002. Opening of the second store in Tokyo, in the Harajuku neighbourhood, popular with people under 20.